The defrost control in your refrigerator acts like a clock. It continually advances and alternates between activating the cooling cycle and the defrost heater, keeping your refrigerator at the appropriate temperature. If you notice that your refrigerator seems too warm or too cool, you may need to replace the defrost control. This part is made of white plastic and contains 4 metal prongs that connect to your refrigerator. This part is sold individually. The defrost control is located at the back of your refrigerator, inside the control housing. To access this part, you will need to unhinge your light cover, and disconnect the air inlet assembly from the control housing.
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Bob
July 1, 2019
Will the defrost control make a loud buzzing sound when it’s going bad?
For model number CSX20EGB
Hello Bob, thank you for writing. Looking into this, it does not seem that the Defrost Control would be the issue. You may want to consider either the Condenser Fan Motor part PS304722 or the Evaporator Fan Motor part PS12583205 for your model. We hope this helps.
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Dennis
November 9, 2017
The de indicator is flashing but the refrigerator seems to be working ok. I don't see a defrost pan under the refrigerator. As far i know , there never was one there since i bought it many years ago. I looked at your drawing and i can see the parts, but a schematic would make my job a lot easier to troubleshoot.
For model number TFX27FH
Hi Dennis,
Thank you for your inquiry. The dE error code is referring to a defrost system error where the defrost cycle has not run for more than 48 hours. You will need to check the wire harness and the defrost heater to see which parts are causing the issue and replace them if you have to. Unplug the refrigerator and reconnect any loose wires in the defrost system. It may be normal for the refrigerator to operate without defrosting for more than 48 hours when operating in an area that’s below 55F degrees. Reset the code by pressing the System Check button. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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DAVE BANKS
August 4, 2018
Frezer ices up in evaporator motor area well and stops fan blade
For model number TBF21DBB
Hello Dave, thank you for your question. I would recommend testing the defrost heater and thermostat first. If those two parts are tested and meet the specific measurements I would suggest replacing the the defrost timer. I hope this helps!
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Jeff
January 18, 2019
The bottom coils freezes up on this side by side. I have replaced the #1. Defrost timer, #2 both heating elements. I’ve verified with multi meter the defrost thermostat. At this point i have just removed the back cover in the freezer compartment and left it off. ( so i can keep my eye on the coil) periodically now i get a ff code or a too warm alarm. All of the coils get frosted over. I can turn the defrost timer to manual defrost and both heaters glow red and are functioning. When i put the back on the freezer compartment it takes about 2-3 weeks before the bottom coil becomes an ice block and the refrigerator temperature goes up. I am stumped and was wondering where to go from here.
For model number TFX24E
Hi Jeff,
Thank you for your question. The issue may be the defrost thermostat. The defrost heater turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the freezer evaporator coils. Before the defrost heater turns on, the defrost thermostat must sense that the evaporator coils are cold enough. If the coils are cold enough, the defrost thermostat will allow the defrost heater to turn on. The temperature of the coils must be below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. If the thermostat is defective, the defrost heater won’t turn on, causing the evaporator coils to frost over. If the defrost thermostat does not have continuity you will need to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 1 reviews.
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Freezer compartment stopped cooling as it should.
Initially I talked to local refrig repair man who told me to defrost the refrigerator and freezer for 6 hrs as well as to use a hot air dryer on the back wall of the freezer to defrost the freezer coils. I defrosted the refrigerator and freezer for twelve hours by unpluging it from the wall and using a fan to blow warm air into the frig/freezer. After 12 hrs., about 1 gallon of water collected in the pan below the refrigerator and I thought it was long enough.(I had defrosted the refrig well. The collection of water in the pan told me that the drainage tubes from the freezer and refrig compartments was working well and not obstructed. This made me think tthat one of three parts on the "no Frost" cycle may be defective and so ordered the Control, Thermostat and Heat assembly from PartSelect for our refrig/Freezer. They have the most reasonable prices. I then plugged in the refrigerator and monitored the temp. in the freezer compartment every twelve hours for the next three weeks and noted the temperature in the freezer compartment varied from o degrees to 10 degrees which is what it should do. I also watched for any frost build up in the freezer compartment and to date have not seen any. The temp in the refrigerator compartment is as it should be. My impression is that all components are actually working as they should now and that the cause for our problem with the Hotpoint was due to the fact that the door was left open overnight. We will try to avoid doing that again. I am holding the parts for one more week. If the refrig coninues to function normally till then, I plan to return the parts to partselect.com because they said I could do so.
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