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Temperature Sensor

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43 Reviews
$ 15.66   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS304103
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10025
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Temperature Sensor Specifications

This sensor (Temperature Sensor, Thermistor, Refrigerator Temperature Sensor) sends the temperature reading of the compartment to the control board. If you notice your refrigerator is too warm, too cold, or not defrosting properly, then there may be a problem with your sensor. The temperature sensor can break from material fatigue or through normal use, and should be replaced. It is attached to the evaporator and control housing in your appliance. It measures approximately 1.25 inches long with 18 inch wire leads, and is constructed out of plastic. This part comes in white, beige. It includes the sensor, with wire leads.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer section too warm | Fridge too cold | Freezer not defrosting
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator, Dryer, Freezer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WR55X10025 replaces these:
AP3185407, 914093, WR55X10025, WR50X10027, WR50X10034, WR50X10055, WR50X10067, WR55X10025B, WR55X10026, WR55X10027, WR55X10028, WR55X10030, WR55X10087, WR55X10088, WR55X10089, WR55X10367, WR55X10380, WR55X10661, WR55X10711, WR55X10735 ... Show more , WR55X10736, WR55X10737, WR55X10937, WR55X10938, WR55X10939, WR55X11121, WR55X11141, WR55X11150 Show less
Questions and Answers

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179 questions answered by our experts.
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Amanda
July 20, 2017
Heres my problem. My refrigerator AND freezer keep going into defrost mode, stay there for too long which causes everything to completely defrost but then it will turn back on with both the fridge and the freezer working. I was told the thermistor is causing this to happen. Is that the case here?
Hello Amanda, a faulty thermistor can cause this reaction. You can find the thermistor on the freezer evaporator coils. To replace this part, you will need to order it here WR55X10025. Best of luck with this repair!

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Rene Ramirez
August 25, 2017
How do I test the temperature sensor.
For model number GSS25WGTAWW
Hi Rene, Thank you for the question. The best way to do this is to remove the thermistor from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature or grab a glass of ice water to test the thermistor. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Christina
July 20, 2017
I need to replace the temperature sensors in my fridge but I don’t know where to start. Is there more than one temperature sensor in most units? Do you know how many are in mine? And can I purchase the same part that many times or is there a different one for each sensor location?
Hello Christina, your model has 3 sensors. To replace all 3, you will need to order 1 WR09X10050, and 2 WR55X10025. Please let us know if you have any further questions!

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Robert
February 12, 2018
The unit stopped freezing- on a saturday all was melting, the frig portion was working fine. We took all the food out. Now suddenly the unit started working again like magic. Making ice and functions well. What is the problem.
For model number GSH22JFXJBB
Hello Robert, thank you for your question. Your unit may be frosting up on the back coils which can cause the freezer get too warm. I would check the heater and thermostat, as well as the temperature sensor and electronic control board-which has the defrost controls built into it. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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JACK
October 29, 2017
Makes ice ok then the ice cubes all freeze together have the temp set to 0 for the freezer
For model number PSS25NGNA
Hi Jack, Thank you for your inquiry. It is normal for the ice in the bucket to stick or fuse together. This will occur if the ice is not used right away. This can also occur if the water is splashing or leaking during the fill cycle. Adjusting the water to a lower level may also help. If the load in the freezer is less then half full, it can also cause the temperature during the defrost cycle, to get warmer and may cause the ice to fuse together at a faster rate. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Jude
July 20, 2017
fridge was actin up so replaced the air inlet damper but didnt change things. now im told it’s the temp sensor i should check next. where is the sensor located nd how do i get to it?
Hi Jude, the fresh food thermistor WR55X10025 is found on the left wall of the fresh food compartment. The freezer thermistor is found on the right wall of the same compartment. I hope this helps.

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Wayne
August 3, 2017
The refridge side is freezing food and liquids. Will replacing the temp sensor in the fridge side solve the problem or do i need to replace all three. The other 2 are in the freezer side.
For model number gss25lgma
Hi Wayne, Thank you for your great question. You should be alright just replacing the refrigerator side sensor, but it would not hurt to test the other sensors to see if they are malfunctioning as well. I hope this helps!

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DIANE
November 11, 2017
Came home from being out of town for 3 days and everything defrosted and temps in freezer and refrigerator were 72 degrees. Contacted our appliance repair guy. It took him quite a while to figure out and believed it was the condensor inverter and the motherboard (that he said was "fried"). He replaced both items (...it took a good part of 2 days...). it appeared that all was working and both sides of frig were starting to get cold; we had to leave town again. when we got home 2 days later, both sides were at 72 degrees again. we called repair guy who was coming the next morning. when he arrived, all was operating fine, and temps were "very close" to their good settings (i.e. freezer @ 0 and other side @ 35 degrees). hard to fix something that's working. we've continued to "check the temps" every few hours the past 7 days and all has been ok. tonight we went to the freezer and everything liquid again (...we haven't put any meat in freezer until we know all ok....). temps at 45 47 degrees (both sides). compressor is "cool to the touch" (i.e. not running) but fan is running. i'm thinking that maybe its the temperature sensor(s) causing the problem. any ideas? we've already spent $650 on repairs + cost of all food in frig & freezer being lost. the 36" GE monogram (counter depth), side by side is 9 years old.
For model number ZISS360DRJSS
Hi Diane, Thank you for your question. I'm sorry to hear about this. If the refrigerator and the freezer are too warm than the part that fixes majority of the time is the temperature sensor. You may want to also check the evaporator fan motor and the condenser fan motor as well to make certain they are working correctly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Mitch
February 13, 2018
My freezer works fine but my fridge does not go below 54 deg. And then the lower food tray freezes around the manual control but still does not lower the temp in the entire fridge.
For model number GFE27GGDABB
Hello Mitch, thank you for your question. I would recommend checking to make sure the evaporator motor is working properly, buy turning the fan blade and pushes the air into the fridge and circulates the around around all the items in the fridge. If this motor is working, the next part I would recommend replacing would be the temperature sensor. I hope this helps!

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Sidney
January 7, 2018
Ice maker chute above the cup, keep freezing up. I replaced dual inlet water valve, grommet/tube assembly and ice/water filter, all did not fix the problem. Same with the water dispenser, keep freezing up, every time i defrosted. I don't have a freezer thermometer (plan to get one), but freezer and fridge seem ok. Any suggestions and fix will be helpful.
For model number GSH25JFXLWW
Hello Sidney, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: temperature sensor, defrost heater, defrost thermostat, damper control, and the evaporator fan motor. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Part Videos
Difficulty: Easy | Tools Required: Screw drivers,Nutdriver

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

How to Troubleshoot Temperature Problems in Your Refrigerator

How Does an Ice Maker Work?

How to Troubleshoot an Ice Maker That is Not Working

Test If Your Electrical Part is Failing - Multimeter Tool

Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.3 / 5.0, 41 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Fridge too warm, evaporator icing up
After replacing the defrost heater, main board and thermistor I still had the same problem. Called a repair guy and he (with the help of GE on the phone) diagnosed that the temperature sensor was bad. So I ordered from partselect and installed it and it fixed the problem. Been good for a couple months (knocking on wood). To install I had to cut the 2 wires to the old sensor, crimp the 2 new wires on and snap the new sensor to the clip on the evaporator. Very easy. Make sure you seal the ends of the wire crimps so moisture doesn't get in and corrode the connection.
  • Gerald from San Clemente, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR55X10025, WR02X10552
554 of 655 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer wouldn't maintain temperature ... got warm.
The freezer in my side-by-side kept warming up -- often 20 degrees or more, which of course caused the fresh food side to warm up also. I do a lot of jump-in-with-both-feet home repairs, but never on a large appliance. Not having an ohmmeter, which cost about $100 for a reliable one, I took the symptoms to the internet. Countless self-help sites and U-Tube videos later, I was positive it was one of two possible problems, either the defrost thermostat was broken and the defroster wasn't coming out of its cycle or the temperature sensor wasn't reading the correct temp and thus kicking in the fan motor when needed. Fortunately I found both parts easily on PartSelect.com and the total cost for both, including shipping, was $30, less than 1/3 of the cost of an ohmmeter. Not knowing for sure which part it was that was bad, I ordered both, figuring, since I had to pull out the panel anyway, I might just as well replace them both ... the price was right. (In retrospect I should have order 4 Temperature Sensors as my fridge has two in both the freezer side and the Fresh Food side. Any one of them being bad could have caused the same problem. Fortunately, I was lucky because it was either ONLY the Defrost Thermostat or I just happened to pick the right Sensor, but the repair worked.)

The repair was easy: Unplug the power. A Nut Driver removed the four screws holding on the panel in the back of the freezer. A screw driver removes the one screw holding the lamp cover in place. Remove the light bulbs, pull off the panel and right above the freezer coils you'll see both parts -- plain as day. (If your coils are clogged with ice, you will probably need de-ice first.) Cut the wires to both parts as close to the parts as you can to leave as much wire exposed as possible. Strip the ends of all four wires about 1/2 inch and also on the new parts. Match up the wires in the fridge to the wires on the parts and twist the ends together (Note: both wires on the Sensor are white so they match up either way, but the two wire on the thermostat will need to match up orange to orange and pink to pink.) I used silicone filled wire nuts, which you can buy at any hardware store or use your own wing nuts and fill them with silicone or shoe goo which works just as well ... anything to keep the moisture out and prevent the wires ends from corroding. Tuck the wires up and replace the panel, light bulbs and light cover That's it. Very easy. By far the hardest part was wedging my wide body into the narrow freezer compartment. Some one-handed work added a little extra time to the project.

In my case the freezer fan didn't kick in for about twenty minutes after I plugged it back in, but I assume that it either begins in the defrost mode or it takes that long for it to reset itself ... either way the repair worked great.
  • Mike from Scottsdale, AZ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR50X10068, WR55X10025
274 of 324 people found this instruction helpful.
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my refigerator was warm but the freezer was cold and working correcttly
I went to a GE repair center to explain my problem, the service center reccomended that I have a techinician come out o look at it. $75.00 for the visit and what ever labor and materials wuld cost.

I went on line to see if there were others having this same problem and found that there were many with the same problem.

After reading some of the ways that people found out what was wrong ...it became a matter of three components, the timer, heater or thermostat.

I tried the most common component and the less expensive one first , the thermostat switch I installed it very easily snipping two wires and attaching the news using wire nuts I used the diagram on this website to pinpoint the component and there has not been a problem since.
  • michele from North Smithfield, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
  • Parts Used:
    WR55X10025
206 of 246 people found this instruction helpful.
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refrigerator was getting too cold
I removed the old temperature sensor by cutting the wires. I attached the wires of the new sensor with wire nuts and mounted it in the same bracket.
  • Larry from Menomonie, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
  • Parts Used:
    WR55X10025
123 of 162 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer clod-fridge warm, coils were frosting up cutting off air flow
First unplug then remove all food and the ice cubes from the freezer only..Then removed the traysand then the 2 panel screws. Defrosted the coils with a hair dryer,removed the 2 screws holding the heater and then unplugged the wires from each side.Installed the new heater and now has been fine for 12 days now..The sensor- I just spliced it in the exact way the old sensor was wired.All seems fine so far. Was alot cheaper to buy the parts and install myself than to pay for 1 service call..
  • Greg from Windsor, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WR55X10025, WR51X10055
95 of 122 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer defrost and then after some time would work.
one repair man said I needed freon. sears repair man said my evaporators leaked. and should buy a new fridge. I installed the parts for less than $30.
dried the freezer compartment removed back panel and asst parts. removed screws from evaporator assy and replaced def therm. soldered leads/wing nuts. removed cover from sensor temp and again connected leads. working fine.
  • anthony from burke, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
  • Parts Used:
    WR50X10068, WR55X10025
87 of 90 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer compartment would freeze sold so the fridge would go warm.
Emptied the fridge and freezer. Unplugged it and in so do doing defrosted the freezer coils. Replace the listed parts, for they were right there easy to get at and replace. Between the three of them we had an 80% chance of getting what was wrong. The freezer and the refridgerator are both working just fine. No more warm milk.
  • Michael from American Fork, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
69 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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not cooling, water in refrigerator
For several years, had problem with water accumulating in the bottom of the refrigerator...took out the "custom cool" drawer and assigned my kids the responsibility to dry it out daily after supper (about a fourth of cup of water daily)...the water was condensing and dripping down the left side of the refrigerator... NOT coming from the refregerator evaporator drip pan area. Then the refrigerator and freeezer had erratic cooling...paid 4 grand for this GE stainless steel on the front/sides frig about 5 years ago... then my wife said she wanted a new refrigerator...what the heck...went on to numerous websites and finally decided to do my own "overall"...had nothing to lose except the price of the parts. A helpful web site is the GE technician site at...www.manualinstruction.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/ge-sidebyside.pdf. I ordered the four thermisters, a new freezer defroster (the old one was probably OK...the freezer coils were not "iced Up"), and a new defroster thermonmeter. While I was at it, I ordered a new refrigerator evaporator drip pan that was rusting a bit. As per other instructions in this website, just spliced in the new thermisters,used wire twist caps and eletrical tape to seal them. The GE site is a bit more elaborate on the "correct" way to do this. The refrigerator evaporator coil is a bit tricky...see the above ge site...but I just cut the rubber thermister holder down the middle and then tracked the thermister through the holder and stuck it in the block and taped the holder back together...(removed the block first ) and then zip-lined the block back to the coil like it was originally. It was about 3 hours to do everything...and guess what...temp in the freezer is -5...temp in the frig is 36...and NO MORE WATER IN THE BOTTOM OF THE REFRIGERATOR, NO MORE WATER DRIPPING DOWN THE LEFT SIDE OF THE REFRIGERATOR...what will my kids do...I feel like the refrigerator guru now. Wish I had done this several years ago. The parts I ordered came in 3 days. I'm lovin my refrigerator now and my wife is lovin me. It's really easier than I thought it would be...the GE tech website has some "diagnostic" info to isolate different problems... but I just decided to replace "everything" since the parts were not that expensive and it was going to be a "do or die" on getting a new refrigerator.
59 of 69 people found this instruction helpful.
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Ice maker failure due to chunks of ice building up in tray
My problem began with having to replace the auger due to damage (broken blade). Unknown at that time the unit was having a defrost cycle issue. Once auger was repaired, then the motor to auger failed. Once repaired the GE unit then began shutting down without warning. Mother board replaced. All was fine for two weeks then noticed odd performance by ice-maker (chunks of Ice again)and frozen package containers showing signs of dampness and then refreezing. Read through the Parts Select web site to see what other users may have had gone wrong with their GE's and what the parts overview section may reveal for me. Found that the defrost thermo and temp-sensor controlled defrost functions. The parts were cheap, $20.00 for the pair so I replaced them both since they are both located next to one another in the freezer compartment. The repair video furnished on the P/S web was great and very accurate. The entire job only took about an hour. The repair video indicated using wire-nuts and electircal tape Instead, I chose to solder the wires and use shrink-tubing to provide the moisture barrier. PartSelect folks are great not only for their parts pricing but also for the informative videos. The GE works better than ever
  • Terrence from Escalon, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WR50X10068, WR55X10025
58 of 76 people found this instruction helpful.
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I Placed A Heat Gun In The Freezer Section To Defrost The Coils And Did Not Return In Time. The Heat From The Heat Gun Rose Upward And Melted All Of The Soft Plastic Parts. The Good News Was That The 16 Parts Were Not Expensive But The One Main Part That Was Needed To Put It All Back Together Took 3
I replaced all of the plastic parts as well as the heat coil that is mounted at the bottom of the coils that keeps the coils from freezing up. If I had not melted the plastic parts the coil could have been replaced in 2 days, 1 day to receive the part and the next to do the work. This is the second time I have had to replace this heater.
53 of 101 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS304103
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10025
Brand
Model Number
Description
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