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Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly

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21 Reviews
$ 84.52   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS303781
Manufacturer Part Number WR51X10055
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Defrost Heater and Bracket Assembly Specifications

The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over. The heater will get hot and melt any ice or frost build up around the coils.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Frost buildup
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WR51X10055 replaces these:
AP3183311, 914088, WR51X10055, WR51X10030
Questions and Answers

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27 questions answered by our experts.
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Mike
October 13, 2017
How do I check the old part to make sure this is the problem?
For model number gsh25jfxlww
Hi Mike. Thank you for the question. You can test the Defrost Heater with an Multi Meter. You will need to check for Continuity. The meter should read between 1-50 ohms. Hope this helps!

31 people found this helpful.

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Don
August 27, 2017
Evaporator coils icing up. Replaced defrost thermostat, defrost heater, temperature sensor. Is mother board next? Evaporator fan runs and seems ok feel air flow. Also find that freezer temp controller must be set at Max warm setting #1 to get about 5 deg in freezer. Any recommendations?
For model number GSH25IGRBWW
Hi Don, Thank you for your inquiry. When humid air passes over your coils, that will cause the ice build up. You have changed most of the major parts that I would think you would have to check. I would also suggest checking your gaskets to see if they are sealing correctly. If your gaskets look fine then you will probably have to look into seeing if there is an issue with your main control board. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

16 people found this helpful.

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Frank
February 11, 2018
Is there an installation video for this part?
Hello Frank, Thanks for your question. We do not have an installation video for this part, but the instructions are as follows. Unplug the fridge. Open the freezer door and remove all of the shelves, followed by the light shield and the bulb. Take out the two screws that hold the top edge of the back panel, then the ground wire clip that attaches to the back panel. Pull out the left side of the panel and remove it. You may want to remove the bottom drawer as well. Remove the screws retaining the defrost heater assembly and pull it out slightly. Remove the two wires at the side of the heater. Reverse this procedure to install the new part. I hope this helps.

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Dan
November 5, 2017
I have a GE side by side, the coils are freezing. I have replaced the control panel, thermostat and the defrost heater. The gaskets around the doors are good also turned the freezer down and still the freezer is freezing up.
For model number GSH25KGMBBB
Hi Dan, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Defrost Thermostat.The best way to do this is to remove the Thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

10 people found this helpful.

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Dale
November 7, 2017
The heater element for allowing water dispenser to not freeze was added to this unit, so we've had no probs since. However in 2014 i replaced a defrost heater element due to probs in the freezer. Worked fine since. I now have prob with refrigerator not being cold enough over past few days and now the water dispenser not working. I haven't been able to take everything out of the freezer yet to look. But can a bad defrost heater element cause the water to stop dispensing if it has caused the coils behind the big panel of freezer to ice up? Thanks
For model number GSH25JSXLSS
Hi Dale, Thank you for your inquiry. If the refrigerator section is too warm, the defrost heater and bracket is one part you will need to check, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the temperature sensor, the dc condenser fan motor, the compression ring, the evaporator fan blade, the dispenser door assembly or flapper, the fresh food door gasket, the inverter kit with jumpers, the evaporator thermistor clip and the defrost thermostat. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

6 people found this helpful.

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Jim
June 3, 2019
GE refrigerator is starting to run a little louder and for a longer period of time. The cooling temps seem to be normal. Ice bucket is full. Six years old.
For model number GSH25JGDDWW
Hello Jim, Thank you for the question. This would depend on what part of the appliance the noise is coming from. In most cases it is a sign the Evaporator Fan Motor, PartSelect Number PS1019114 will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

3 people found this helpful.

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Related Parts:
Jean
June 6, 2019
The freezer and refrigerator separation section of the refrigerator frame gets very warm. The wall of either sides of the freezer and the refrigerator are normally cold. Only the front frame where the 2 doors meet when closed gets warm. What electrical part(s) are located along that separation that would cause such a heating condition?Thanks,
For model number GSS25QSWASS
Hi Jean, Thank you for your question. If the space between the doors is warmer than normal, there is an issue with air flow over the coils. You will need to clean the condenser coils. When your condensor coils are clogged up, the heat gets trapped. This causes your condensor fan to run constantly where it may become damaged or cause it to stop working. The fan blade may also become damaged. This extended use can also lead to damage to the fan blade itself like warping or breaks. If you notice that you no longer hear the fan running, the first thing you will want to check is that the fan blade is intact and clear of any blockages. If it seems to be working normally, you’ll need to test that the motor is not damaged, and replace if needed. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

3 people found this helpful.

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Jarrett
December 26, 2017
When I ohm out my ps303781 heater bracket assembly i get approximately 23 ohms. I read on this website it should check between 1 and 50. I also noticed some yellowing of the coils inside the tube. Should this be of any concern. Repairman states he replaced it. It does not look new to me.
For model number GSH25JFTEWW
Hi Jarrett, Thank you for the question. If there is yellowing I suggest having it replaced, as this is a sign the element is bad. Hope this helps!

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Blair
November 26, 2018
Freezer side is cold. Refrigerator side is too warm. I have adjusted the sliding controls to full cold. No change in problem. What do you think is wrong?
For model number TPX24BPBEBB
Hello Blair, Thank you for the question. I suggest first checking the Evaporator Fan Motor at the back of the freezer. PartSelect Number PS304600. The fan circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated to the Fresh Food Section to keep it cool. If the fan is running normally you can check the Defrost Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS303471. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.

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Related Parts:
Ricardo
January 21, 2019
How many inches does this part have
For model number Ps303781
Hello Ricardo, thank you for your question. This part is approximately 12 inches long. I hope this helps!

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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 41 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Freezer was still simi-cold but refrigerator was not.
Called a friend that lead me down the right path so i did a search for the part's and found this site. The trouble shooting that outher's had done was the same as mine, I descovered that the coil's in the freezer had frozen up complety. They are located behind a plasic cover in the freezer area, it had frozen up due to the Defrost heater element being defective, when i took it out it was black and burnt looking,It is located at the bottom edge of the coils,2 bolt's and a plug in on each side. That is probally the only part i needed but i went ahead and replaced the sensor and timer also.The sensor wires in the freezer( located on the very top of the coils) had to be cut and the new ones spliced in, only 2 wires and easy access. I also put shrink wrap on the splices to protect them from mosisture. The timer was located in the fridge area by the temp. control knobs. 2 small bolts and a plug in was all on it. It's been 5 day's and so far so good. The worst part was defrosting the frozen coils. This was done with the wife's hair dryer and a couple towel's to soak up the water. Don't just let the water go down the drain hole because the tray that catches it will not hold all the water from the frozen coil's. Just a reminder, don't forget to unplug the unit when working on it. Hope this help's and was very easy install, Cost about $125 in part's and a couple hours of labor(did a good cleaning while it was eampty for the repair) Good luck.
  • Richard from West Alton, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WR9X489, WR51X10055, WR50X122
438 of 480 people found this instruction helpful.
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vegetables freezing in fridge, freezer getting warm, always running
1st symptom, water dispenser not working.
2nd symptom, carrots freezing in fridge lower drawer.
3rd symptom, 3 days later, freezer getting warmer and warmer, fan always running, back of inside wall of freezer building up with ice.
Originally changed water valve for dispenser thinking it was the only problem.
After noticing the freezer getting warmer and doing some reading, I decided the best guesstimate would be the defrost thermostat or heater behind the inside freezer wall. Defrosting all that ice to get behind the wall is the time consuming part of this job. Not wishing to defrost and troubleshoot to determine which component failed, they are cheap enough to just buy both the heater and t-stat and replace both and be done with it. It turned out to be the heater, an element encased in glass, the glass turns black on the ends when it is toasted. This is a very easy fix. If you do not have crimpers for the butt connectors for the 2 wires for the t-stat, you can use a wire nut to twist them together and seal it with silicone/rtv. The heater just plugs in on both ends. Remember it is glass and very delicate, take your time. Start to finish this could be a 3 hour job, but most of that time is melting the ice, cleaning up and putting everything back in the freezer.
  • joseph from mastic, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WR50X10068, MWFP, WR51X10055
160 of 249 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer clod-fridge warm, coils were frosting up cutting off air flow
First unplug then remove all food and the ice cubes from the freezer only..Then removed the traysand then the 2 panel screws. Defrosted the coils with a hair dryer,removed the 2 screws holding the heater and then unplugged the wires from each side.Installed the new heater and now has been fine for 12 days now..The sensor- I just spliced it in the exact way the old sensor was wired.All seems fine so far. Was alot cheaper to buy the parts and install myself than to pay for 1 service call..
  • Greg from Windsor, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WR55X10025, WR51X10055
95 of 122 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refirgerator side started to get warm. Soon after the freezer side started to thaw.
Repair was very easy. First, be sure to turn the appliance off. I removed the 5 screws holding the panel in the back of the freezer. I used a hair dryer to thaw the condenser coils so I could access the heater and related wiring. I removed the 2 screws holding the heater in place and unplugged the heater. Plugged in the new heater and replaced everything in reverse order. I then cut the 2 wires to the defrost thermostat and removed it. I attached the new thermostat to the wires with wire nuts. Then replaced the cover in the freezer and turned everything back on. It is important to use the hair dryer to remove the ice from the condenser coils.
  • Kim from Ridge Manor, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR51X10055, WR50X122
73 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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Freezer compartment would freeze sold so the fridge would go warm.
Emptied the fridge and freezer. Unplugged it and in so do doing defrosted the freezer coils. Replace the listed parts, for they were right there easy to get at and replace. Between the three of them we had an 80% chance of getting what was wrong. The freezer and the refridgerator are both working just fine. No more warm milk.
  • Michael from American Fork, UT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
69 of 84 people found this instruction helpful.
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Not cold & saw ice accumulated on freezer back panel
-Disconnect the power supply wire& turn temp control inside refrigerator to 0!
-15 mins spent on remove (5 screws) the back panel inside freezer, melt ice then replace the heater (2 screws) on the bottom! Black wire on left & pink wire on the right! Make sure both end has good connection to the heater!

-30 mins to drain all water from the bottom (back side) of the refrigerator, suck & clean all dust & dirt from the front & back side!

-Set both temp control knots to 5 & put back all the food!

-If no ice build up on the panel after 10 days & then the repair is good!
  • Eddie from Freeport, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR51X10055
50 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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Little or no cooling in refrigerator, compressor on 24hrs.
First, removed shelves and items in freezer.
Then, removed back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver which exposed iced over coils, then defrosted coils using hair dryer set on hot-high. This was the most time consuming part of repair-30 minutes. removed heater and bra's 2 screws and pulled electrical leads from both ends. Reconnected the two leads to new heater and bra, then reattached using 2 screws back onto coil frame. Cut thermostats 2 lead wires-one pink the other orange, reconnected leads from new thermostat with wire nuts, applied silicone to protect connections, then reattached onto coil frame. reattached back panel using socket set and philips screwdriver to re-attach bolts and philips screws, then cleaned any remaining water from the defrosting with dry towel. Attached freezer shelves, items and plugged in refrigerator freezer. Appliance works like it's brand new again.
  • james from san diego, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WR50X10068, WR51X10055
42 of 52 people found this instruction helpful.
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frige was warm and freezer was freezing up
i turned off the fridge and unpluged it , took out all the shelfs in the freezer and took off the back panel to get to the heater , the heater is only held in with 2 screws and unhook the 2 wires and replace the heater , and then thermostate is on top of the coils , i just cut the 2 color coded wires and replace the theromstate , was easyer then i thought ,
  • kevin from plant city, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR51X10055, WR50X122
33 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator Not Cooling due to ice buildup on coils
Removed shelves from freezer section and removed protective cover using a screwdriver and nutdriver. 5 screws.
Upon removal of the cover, I noticed the coils totally cover with ice. At this point I noticed that the defrost heater was burnt out. I removed the heater using screwdriver and pliers and tested the heater according to instructions from Parts Select website.
Since the coil was exposed, I also tested the defrost thermostat according to Parts select instructions and found it to be working properly. i also tested the defrost timer and found it OK.
I replaced the heater, closed the protective cover, replaced the shelves and plugged the unit on.
It has been working just fine since then..
In addition to saving money, i saved myself the agravation of looking for a repairman and having to wait for THEIR convenience to to the work.
  • FERNANDO from MIAMI, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR51X10055
31 of 37 people found this instruction helpful.
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freezer coils not thawing and fridge getting warm.
Replacing the heater is very easy. Remove the wire racks and the two lower rack bracket screws. Remove the two screws to the back panel, unclip the ground wire and remove the panel. Two screws hold he heater on and two wires for the connection.
However, this did not solve my problem. The story is this. The fridge was getting warm because the coils were freezing over. I called the local repair guys "poncho and lefty" and they came out and replace the themostat and charged me $150. It still froze over a week later. They came back and said it must be the circuit board and charged me just for the $125 part. Nope, it still froze over in a week. So I thought I would take things into my own hands and tell poncho and left to hit the trail. I then ordered a new heater because the old one looked bad even though it checked out okay with an ohm meter. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the problem either. The last thing is to replace are the temp sensors. But before I ordered anything I submitted my problem to a "fix it" forum and someone suggested to check the part number of the themostat that was put in. This turned out to be a brilliant observation. It seems poncho and lefty replace the thermostate with one that is used with a timer. This fridge has the timer built into the circuit board and has a very different temp range than the one they replace it with. Their first clue should have been that the wires were a different color than the one they were replacing and that the part number was totally different than the one they took out. So I ordered a new thermostat and the three temp sensors and replace all of this and the unit works as good as new. The forum also told me that the bullet shaped temp sensor were faulty and should all be replaced, which I did.
Now I have all new parts, so it should be good to go until the compressor takes a nose dive. Hopefully, that will not be for 5 or 6 more years.
  • Gerald from Ada, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WR51X10055
24 of 29 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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21 Reviews
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS303781
Manufacturer Part Number: WR51X10055
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
36350622000
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36350627000
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358072894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358072896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358075894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358075896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358077894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358077896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358472894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358472896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358472897
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358475894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358475896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358475897
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358477894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358477896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358477897
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358772894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358772896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358775894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358775896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358777894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358777896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358892894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358892896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358892897
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358892898
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358895894
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358895896
Refrigerator
Kenmore
36358895897
Refrigerator

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