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Dispenser Door Recess Crank

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$ 5.50   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS291908
Manufacturer Part Number WR17X10706
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Dispenser Door Recess Crank Specifications

The door recess crank for your refrigerator is located inside the water dispenser assembly. To access this part, you will need to take apart the dispenser assembly. To do this, you will need a putty knife and a Phillips screwdriver. If your dispenser door will not close properly, or ice is not dispensing properly, you may have a damaged door recess crank. This part is made of white plastic and is sold individually.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Door Sweating | Ice maker won’t dispense ice | Door won’t open or close | Frost buildup
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WR17X10706 replaces these:
AP3185409, 913457
Questions and Answers

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    Rick
    October 30, 2019
    Do the little screws come with the parts?
    Hello Rick, Thank you for the question. This is just the crank as seen in the picture. Screws are not included. Good luck with the repair!

    2 people found this helpful.

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      Part Videos

      Replacing your General Electric Refrigerator Dispenser Door Recess Crank

      Customer Repair Stories
       Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 31 reviews. What's this?
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      Ice Chute Flapper not closing causing water dripping to floor and ice chute freezing up solid
      I followed the video instructions for replacing the Flapper Valve and solenoid that Part Select suggested. It was one of the best DIY Reapair Sites I've used. Thank you
      132 of 181 people found this instruction helpful.
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      ice and water would not dispense at door
      first I snapped out control face plate on outside of door. removed the screws for each part,and unplugged the wires at the connectors, replaced new parts and plugged in connectors to new circuit board.I decided to replace the board,switch and solenoid all at the same time, not knowing which part was bad.I have to say it was well worth it! it works better than when it was new!!!! It was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be.
      93 of 141 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Ice door would not open far enough, ice would get stuck in chute
      First remove about 30 screws w/nutdriver that are hidden under door seal then inside of freezer door will come off. Second remove about 10 screws that hold dispenser assy to the inside of door, then support the unit with tape so you don't damage the wires that connect it. Third, pop touchpad loose, then remove three sets of wires plugged into the circuit board. Fourth, remove four screws that hold the ice chute and light assy. Fifth, now remove the 3 screws that hold solenoid. These three screws that hold the solenoid will be very rusty, you may want to replace these also. I went ahead and replaced all the related parts because they are so hard to get to. Also took the opportunity to clean in here with bleach to remove all the black mold and rust.
      NOTE: when reassembling the inside of the freezer door to the outside of the door you must loosely attach the door on both sides in the middle first, then the top and bottom. Add some more screws on each side and tighten them all. Now you must check to be sure that the door is not racked. If the door is not sealed at the top or bottom, loosen the screws and twist the door a little and tighten screws and check door again for proper seal. Spent more time adjusting door to seal right than doing the actual repair.
      72 of 132 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Recessed door on ice dispenser would stay open causing the freezer to frost up
      I inserted the tip of a very small screwdriver from a eye glass repair kit into the three small holes under the panel near where the ice is dispensed. I never would have known about this simple procedure if it wasn't for the feedback you post from your parts cumtomers. Once I did this the front panel with the buttons on it poped off and it was just a matter of removing a few screws at that point. The wires from the new solenoid easily plugged into the board on the front panel. I would recommend changing the screws at the same time. The old one's worked but they were rusty. I feel the solenoid was my only problem but I changed all the parts in between the dispenser door and the solenoid just to be sure.
      67 of 89 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Ice buildup in the door of freezer
      Pulled the ice/water control panel off using the three holes under the lip. Pops off pretty easy. Next came 4 screws holding the chute for the ice. Two bottom screws were very rusty, top two look brand new. Watch the wires. Replace the solenoid assembly by unplugging wires leading to the board, then removed the plunger over the top of the hook on the far right. Went ahead and replaced the dispenser door assembly or flapper. Plugged refridge back in and pressed the ice dispenser handle and listened for the solenoid to cycle. Perfect. There is a little delay before you hear the flapper fall into place. Saving rest of parts just in case they are needed next time.Thanks to everyone who wrote in to show how easy it would be. No telling how much a repairman would have charged me.
      65 of 86 people found this instruction helpful.
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      The compartment behind control panel with snow
      I have unlock the black panel. With a screw driver I have removed 2 screws and removed 3 conectors from circuit board. So, I had access to solenoid set. From this point on was intuitive. Very easy.

      I recomend these parts be replaced once time for each two years.
      38 of 59 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Ice cube production stopped; ice cube chute door is seized.
      Problem: I have a black colored GE 24.9 cubic inch side-by-side refrigerator, model #GSH25KGMCBB that I purchased new in 2002. The ice cube maker stopped supplying ice cubes and the ice dispenser door stopped operating.

      Repair: Unplugged refrigerator first and shut off the house water supply valve. Removed the lower rear access cover and replaced the double solenoid water valve. Icemaker and water dispenser tubing are easily removed by pushing in and holding down the white plastic collar where the tubing is inserted into each port on the valve body; no tools required to release the tubing. Hint: When reconnecting the water outlet tubing, ensure the tube diameter matches the port on the valve body. Insert each tube by hand back into the ports of the valve until they firmly seated.

      Removed the control panel by inserting a small screwdriver into the three holes located on the bottom of the control panel body. Removed all of the ice dispenser door hardware and the door solenoid. The door solenoid armature was seized by corrosion. Cleaned off all of the accumulated dirt and mold with a 1:10 ratio solution of bleach and water. Replaced all of the door recess and solenoid valve fasteners with my own stainless steel #4-40 thread, 0.25" long socket head screws for longer life. The installation of the remaining hardware is the reverse of how it was removed.

      The installation looks very clean now and $150 later, the ice maker still doesn't produce ice!

      Root-cause analysis: I disconnected the ice cube maker water supply line from the double solenoid valve at the rear of the refrigerator and was able to blow air with my mouth straight through the outlet of the water tubing located inside of the freezer compartment; to ensure it wasn't blocked. Verified the water supply valve is not being energized! Turns out that the blinking green LED indicator on the ice cube maker is indicating more than the troubleshooting guide does about that because the white colored insulated conductor in the electrical harness for the ice cube maker is not energizing the solenoid on the water supply valve!

      Conclusion: the ice cube maker assembly is next on the list of replacement parts!!
      37 of 54 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Frost in ice chut, flapper hanging partially open.
      Removed control panel, snapped out pretty easy. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). My spring was broke but it ended up being the solenoid assembly after I replaced the spring, door crank, micro switch and flapper it was obvious the solenoid was hanging up. I had to go back an order it but it was at my door 2nd day (quickly). I took the time to clean the area with Tylex (some mold), and everything went in easily. I didn't really need the new flapper, crank, and micro switch but they were fairly cheap and then all is new. We use our ice dispenser a great deal so I didn't want to have to go back in and fix a part I "should have" replaced. I used Part Select for my washer motor as well. Doing both repairs myself probably saved 3 or 4 hundred dollars easily.
      36 of 74 people found this instruction helpful.
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      ice despenser door would stick open and frost up to the point of of ice not coming out
      after finding the video describing the same problem, i gave it a shot. Major problem was figuring out how to take outside trim off of the ice/water dispenser. Everything i tried did not work like the videos i had seen. Looking thru some of the posted blogs i found another way to get behind the control panel without even taking off the trim piece. i pressed a 1/8th allen wrench into the two outer holes on the bottom of the control panel which released the panel to pull out from the bottom. after that it was simple to release the three plugs from the circuit board and remove the control panel. 4 phi lips screws later the ice chute comes straight out revealing the flapper door which is held in by 2 more screws. once that assembly is out the solenoid is held by three more screws. there was nothing difficult at all about this repair once the secret was out about the first step about the three holes (use only the outer two) in the bottom of the control panel
      32 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Ice dispenser door sticking open.
      Unplugged power cord. Used a small screw driver to release the bottom of the control panel. Pulled it out and unplugged wires, then set it aside. Removed 4 screws from the housing shield and pulled it out. Now the solenoid assembly and related parts are accessable. I removed the solenoid assembly by loosening the top screw and removing the 2 bottom screws. This was the main problem, but I also replaced related parts that were worn or corroded. I also cleaned and disinfected everything in there while I had it apart because it was pretty nasty! Now it works like new.
      28 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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