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Tub Bearing

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$ 22.33   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS271510
Manufacturer Part Number WH2X1198
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Tub Bearing Specifications

This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you may need to replace the tub bearing. This bearing is made of metal, and is approximately 3 inches wide and 2 inches tall.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Leaking | Shakes and moves
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH2X1198 replaces these:
AP2045289, 279136, WH02X1198
Questions and Answers

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18 questions answered by our experts.
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Tim
October 22, 2017
My washer sounds like it’s taking off into space during the spin cycle, it is so loud we can’t hardly function.What might be the cause and what part might need to be replaced?
For model number Gtwn5050m0ws
Hi Tim, Thank you for the question. In most cases this woudl indicate a problem with the Tub Bearing Part Number: PS271510. It is also a good idea to check or replace the seal, washers and nuts that sit down with the bearing. Split Ring Part Number: PS1766022,Hub Washer Part Number: PS271511,Tub Bearing Part Number: PS271509,Thrust Washer Part Number: PS2355963 and the Hub Nut Part Number: PS271505. Hope this helps!

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Matt
February 6, 2018
Should the plastic rim on the top of the stainless inner basket be filled with liquid? Dry as a bone on the outside and doesn't leak out no matter how it's oriented.It's magic! Stamped with "part no. 175d2125 cav. 2
For model number gtwn3000m1ws
Hi Matt, Thank you for the question. Yes the water is suppose to be there. It is filled with water during the manufacturing and then sealed. it is to help with balancing the tub. Hope this helps!

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Andy
August 31, 2017
My washing machine makes a grinding sound when the agitator turns. It does not make the sound when it is in the spin cycle. I took the front off and can't seem to determine where the grinding is coming from.
For model number WHRE5550K2WW
Hi Andy, Thank you for the great question. If you have a grinding noise during agitating you will need to replace the Pulsator Coupling. It is located just under the agitator. Good luck with the repair !

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Michael
March 26, 2019
My tub is loose and i tried tightening but the 1 1/16 nut keeps backing off, the split washer looks a bit worn. The tub bearing looks to be ok. Why would the nut keep backing off?
For model number HSWP1000M4WW
Hi Michael, Thank you for your question. The nut may be stripped or damaged and it will likely need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Charlie
November 30, 2017
When going into wash cycle, & agitator is trying to engage, machine makes metal on metal noises, & tub starts shaking, turned it off & on about six times, it worked ok for 3 loads; then 4 th load started shaking & metal noises again ? Teeth on agitator & agitator coupling are fine, drive belt is good. Thanks,
For model number WJRR4170G2WW
Hi Charlie, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you may want to check your tub bearing and your shaft and mode shifter assembly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Joyce
November 19, 2017
My washer has a very loud grinding sound during the wash cycle only. How can I resolve that?
For model number GLWN2800D2WS
Hi Joyce, Thank you for the question.I suggest removing the agitator to check the Agitator Coupling,PartSelect Number PS1482517 to see if the grooves are wore down and rubbing creating the noise.Hope this helps!

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CHRIS
October 16, 2019
My washing machine has several levels such as: Delicate, hand wash, medium wash and heavy wash. The agitator changes speed only when it goes from: Medium wash or heavy wash to delicate or hand wash. Even then, on delicate or hand wash, it is still agitating too fast. What could be the problem?
For model number WCRE6570D1WW
Hello Chris, thank you for your question. It sounds like the issue is the machine control board. We would recommend replacing PartSelect Number: PS960632. I hope this helps!

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Donald
January 9, 2020
When changing the tub bearing it seems like there should be some type of lubrication in that bearing to prevent it from seizing up on the shaft. What type of lubricate should I put in the bearing?
For model number HTWP1200D0WW
Hello Donald, Thank you for the question. GE does not list or recommend a lubrication for the Tub Bearing. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, I would suggest calling the manufacturer of the appliance directly. We hope this helps!

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Rocky
February 1, 2020
Should agitator rock and be shacky
For model number wbb4500g
Hello and thank you for writing. No, it should not. This could indicate an unbalanced washer but more likely a faulty snubber ring PS473378. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Richard
January 8, 2020
The washer is extremely noisy only during the spin cycle
For model number WBB4500E1WW (S/N: GH147875G)
Hello Richard and thank you for writing. It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty tub bearing PS271510 and/or a loose or a faulty tub dampening strap PS271100, you should check for signs of damage, and replace if necessary. Don t forget the bearing washer PS271509 if you decide to change the bearing. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.

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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing

Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.1 / 5.0, 18 reviews. What's this?
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Main seal leaking & burned bearings on & in transmission
Outrageous bad design for GE. We bought a SS tub washer but during repair found hidden aluminum components as 'wet' support structures, with massive corrosion; GE's SS tub is a fraud. Main seal went bad after 2 years, washer has a drip pan - no wonder, the problem was hiden for another year while parts burned up. Replacing transmission is basically simple if you have a large hammer and pipe wrench to remove the left hand turn aluminum main holding nut. Replacement parts were okay but we are going to sell washer & dryer immediately because of bad design - it will be a good machine for someone else for a couple years.
  • Gregory from Mountain Home, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WH38X10002, WH2X1198, WH2X1193
71 of 100 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loud noise, burning smell during spin cycle
The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.
20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very Noisy In Spin
When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaks on floor in front of machine.
Worse machine ever made. Installed all parts per videos .they helped a lot. Inner tub went on crooked and first wash ruined inner/outer tubs top piece. Took to dump.
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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I had a bad tub bearing and tub seal.
I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.
  • Troy from N CHESTERFLD, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • Parts Used:
    WH02X10383, WH2X1198, WH2X1197
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noisy while spinning
I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water leaking from between inner shaft and outer shaft of assembly and teeth worn off of clutch assembly
Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.
  • Dean from GLEN BURNIE, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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washer wouldn't spun
The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator
  • Doreene from Gibbsboro, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Water Leak, Loud Bearing noise
The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.
  • William from COMMERCE TWP, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Very large noise during spin cycle
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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      Model Cross Reference
      This part works with the following models:
      PartSelect Number: PS271510
      Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1198
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