This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing Washer
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint.
Part# WH2X1197 replaces these:
AP2045288, 279135, WH02X1197
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 30 reviews.
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Hub washer replacement
I noticed a loud noise during the spin cycle, I purchased a bearing, but after taking the washer apart, I realized that the hub was worn out, I replaced the bearing and other parts to put it back in running condition, it was a worthwhile job, and cost saving. I have to thank partselect for the helpful videos.
Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair. The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine. Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in p
... Read moreositive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.
Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it. Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt. Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.
Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help. Knowledge from y
... Read moreou tube was a great help.
I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have
... Read more listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.
Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well
... Read more as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.
I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Noisey during spin cycles
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 sec
... Read moreonds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Washer screeching during spin cycle.
Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nu
... Read moret and purchase a new nut.
Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.
I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but
... Read more there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Questions and Answers
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12 questions answered by our experts.
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Chris Silko
September 15, 2017
Follow up: My washer has been steadily making more noise over the past few weeks. I would say it is not a squealing, nor is it a banging, nor is it really a grinding sound. It sounds like it always has in the spin cycle, only about 5 times louder. It is basically so loud that you can't have a normal conversation while standing in front of it. You have to raise your voice to talk while near it. The sound is just a very loud, constant, steady "running" type sound. No banging and no squealing. So if i had to pick one of the three sounds, i would say it is a grinding sound, but not in the sense of metal on metal grinding that i think of when i think of grinding. Just a dull machine/motor running kind of sound at an unusually large volume. Thanks.
For model number VVSR1040V2WW
Hi Chris,
Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that you will have to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the tub dampening strap, the tub bearing, the agitator coupling kit, the split ring, the hub washer, the tub seal, the drain pump and motor assembly, the transmission and brake assembly, the clutch and the suspension rod and spring assembly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Michelle
October 7, 2017
We are having an issue with our GE washing machine making a kind of metal on metal grinding sound only during the very beginning of the agitation cycle. We have replaced all the dampening straps and that didn't fix the problem. We have taken the front off to see if we can tell where the sound is coming from. It is definitely at the very bottom of the washer. It doesn't make the sound during spinning or even the entire agitation cycle. My husband applied a small amount of pressure to the tub while it was making the sound and it immediately stopped. The second he let go it began again. It happens during both agitation cycles. It is so loud, I have to shut the door to the laundry room and I can still hear it all over the house! It's driving me insane! Please help! Thanks so much for any and all advice!
For model number WTRE6260F0GG
Hi Michelle, Thank you for the question. This sounds like the Tub Bearing,PartSelect Number PS271510.This is the most common part replaced with the Metal on Metal rubbing noise occurs. Hope this helps!
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Randy
September 17, 2019
The hub nut comes loose everytime we wash a load of clothes. Sometimes it comes loose in the middle of a cycle and i have to retighten it. Once tight it works fine with no more shacking than any other machine i've seen. My question is why will the nut not lock into place?
For model number GTWN5650F2WS
Hello Randy, thank you for your question. It sounds like the hub nut has stripped. We would recommend replacing the PartSelect Number: PS271505 This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. I hope this helps!
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Andrew
October 18, 2019
My wife put a heavy blanket in the wash and after that the next load of clothes had grease spots all over the clothes. Could that be the bearing leaking grease?
Hi Andrew, that does sound like the case, the only way to know for sure is to dissemble the unit and inspect the individual parts. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
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Krishna
December 28, 2019
My washer has been steadily making loud high pitch noise over the past few weeks. I would say it is not a squealing, nor is it a banging, nor is it really a grinding sound. It sounds like it always has in the spin cycle.Very loud,. It is basically so loud that you can't have a normal conversation while standing in front of it. The sound is just a very loud, constant, steady "running" type sound. No banging and no squealing. I would say it is a grinding sound, but not in the sense of metal on metal grinding that i think of when i think of grinding. Thanks.I have changed the the buffer straps, the agitator coupling looks good but i tried taking it out without success, the tub bearing below has a large space between the bearing and the assembly. if this is the problem then i would have to damage the agitator coupling and others thus the required advice.
For model number WCSR2090D5WW
Hello Krishna,
Thank you for your question. If there is a decent amount of space between the tub bearing and the transmission, that is likely causing the loud noise during the cycle. You should be able to uninstall the tub bearing without having to damage the agitator, we advise following the video repair guide on the part page of the tub bearing itself to make sure you don't damage any other parts. We hope this helps!
I change mode shifter once i tightened the mode shifter to the bottom metal mount it lifts up causing the bearing washer to be loose and water leaks when wash clothes any help willl be great full thanks
For model number Don’t have it 2010 he top loader
Hello and thank you for writing.
Here is our link to help you find your model number:
https://www.partselect.com/Find-Your-Appliance-Model-Number.aspx
We are looking forward to your response.
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Dominic
March 7, 2023
Hi, I installed a new Shaft and Drive Tube Assembly (WH38X10019) in my GE Washer GTWN4250D2WS along with a new Tub Bearing Washer (this part) and Tub Bearing (WH2X1198). After assembly, there is about a 1/2" gap between the Tub Bearing Washer and Tub Bearing. This doesn't seem right. Could this be an assembly error or is one of the parts out of spec?
I compared the overall length of my Shaft and Drive Tube Assembly to my old one and they were the same overall length, but I didn't specifically check the length to the shoulder of the shaft that the Tub Bearing Washer is now resting on.
For model number gtwn4250d2ws
Hi Dominic, thank you for contacting us. Please make the installation correctly between the tub bearing washer and the tub bearing. We have researched the given model and attached an installation video for your ease. We hope this solves your problem!
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John
January 29, 2019
Replaced tub bearing and when attaching motor assemby and rod back to tub, the tub bearing washer doesn't fit all the way snug to the shaft after i put the bolts back in the brackets to hold the assembly to the outer tub. I know this is probably not normal but how do i fix it?
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. There is a video listed with the part on our website that you may reference on how to install the parts. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Gary
November 29, 2017
I am having a noise issue with this washer during the spin cycle. It is very loud. I have replaced the tub bearings, split ring, hub washer, and hub nut. After all that it is still making the same noise. I checked the motor, pump, and shaft drive assembly, and all of those appear to turn smooth. What next? It makes this noise whether it is loaded or empty.
For model number GLWN2800D1WS
Hello Gary,
Thanks for your question. Start by checking the drive belt and the drive pulley for any signs of wear and tear, cracks, or damage. Check also the water inlet valve, as that can buildup obstructions which will cause noise.
I hope this helps.
Changed the tub bearing and still hearing loud noise like airplane during spin cycle. What other areas should i look at next?
For model number GTWN4250D1WS
Hello, thank you for your inquiry! We recommend checking this part (tub bearing washer), the tub dampening strip part PS271100, and the drive belt part PS1482278. These are often the culprits for noisy washers. We hope this helps!
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