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Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197
Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197 Tub Bearing Washer – Part Number: WH2X1197 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/GE/00110774i03.gif

Tub Bearing Washer

Product Description

Tub Bearing Washer Specifications

This is a tub bearing and it is meant to work in conjunction with your washing machine. The purpose of this part is to aid in keeping the inner tub of your washing machine spinning smoothly during a wash cycle. The most common reasons for needing to change your tub bearing is if your appliance is noisy or shaking/moving during the wash cycle, another common symptom is leaking water. This part is sold individually and measures to have an inner diameter of roughly 1 inch, and an outer diameter of roughly 2 inches.

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Troubleshooting

This part fixes the following symptoms:

Noisy | Leaking | Shakes and moves | Pumps but will not spin

This part works with the following products:

Washer.

This part works with the following brands:

General Electric, Hotpoint.

Part # WH2X1197 replaces these:

279135, AP2045288, WH02X1197.
Questions and Answers
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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Washer Tub Bearing Washer

Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.0 / 5.0, 22 reviews What's this?
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Wayne from Saint Augustine, FL
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH49X10042, WH38X10002, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH02X10383
Tub seal leaked, rusted the transmission bearing which locked up
I followed the instructions in the GE Consumer Service Training Technician Manual Pub. No. 31-10008.

I also power washed the basket and tub before reassembly.

The tub seal comes with the transmission and brake assembly so it's not necessary to order another seal.

The agitator coupling kit contains a redesigned coupler and longer screw with new o-ring.

I bought the hub nut, split ring, tub bearing, agitator coupling kit and washer hub because these are all the parts that go on the transmission shaft. I felt it was best to spend a few dollars more to replace every part involved with the spin and agitation of the washer.

I used the channel lock and a hammer with a shortened handle to remove and replace the hub nut. Use caution as the nut is aluminum.

The entire job took 5 hours.
202 of 238 people found this instruction helpful.
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Joe from Lucedale, MS
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
WH45X10027, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH02X10265, WH2X1193, WH02X10383
The Hub Under the Spinner basket broken/ Deteriorated
Removed front cover, Control panel, top Cover, slasher unit, all very smiple stuff. the hub was broken and the spinner basket came right out. One half Hub attached to Spinner, Other half attached to Hub drive shaft. removing the Hub nut was the hard part. tried impack & socket, No luck. in removal. Had to usr Hammer & Chisel and bust Old Alum. Nut off. Clean up and replace parts. OK. Had to remove water pump and clear debree that went in pump when spinner Hub broke off . the spinner also bursted a crack in the outer poly tube when it cam apart.. Sanded the dmage area and Patched with a good coat of JB Weld. machine is working Like new. The parts all worked Great. the break down Chart was a great Help to get the right parts needed. Thanks
104 of 125 people found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from West Babylon, NY
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH45X10027, WH38X10002, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH1X2733
tub would not spin / motor was smoking
the hardest part was getting the hub nut off. You have no room for a big wrench, I ended up chiseling it off.once I got it a part I saw the transmission was leaking oil, I checked every thing else, every thing seemed fine. I read on this web site that a common failure was the hub, mine was not in the best of shape so I replaced it while I was in there.replaced tub bearing,washer hub, hub nut , retaining clip for clutch,ring split, transmission and tub bearing 1/2 and $250.00 later the machine works like new.The diagrams that give you the part numbers were very helpful in the reassembly.
54 of 85 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dave from Willcox, AZ
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH02X10383
Water leakage from the bottom of the tub through the shaft seal
Thanks to comments already summited to Partselect I was prepareed for the worst. Once I figured out that you remove the agitator assembly with a swift jerk I was able to access the lower portion of the tub. As others have found out the aluminum nut holding the inner tub can not be removed without a hammer and chisel. Once you get past that things go well. What is left is cleaning the components and re-assembling.
30 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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Michael from Allentown, PA
Difficulty Level:
Very Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH38X10002, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH49X10042
Bearing above brake plate on transmission unit failed, brske material broken up
First I removed the agitator. The shoulder screw on top of the air bell was almost disintegrated, but after soaking with penetrating oil and a large channel lock pliers I removed the shoulder screw. Next, the air bell required a bearing puller to remove it from the agitator shaft (with force application to the agitator shaft from above). After two days of soaking with penetrating oil, heating with a hot air gun, and countless attempts with a pipe wrench and sledge hammer the 1 11/16 nut was not moving. I drilled down along the flats of the shaft and dug out as much corrosion as I could and filled the cavities with penetrating oil. Next, I drilled down at an angle (so as not to gouge the centering taper of the spinner hub) into the nut in order to relieve some stress - no success. I ended up using a chissel ( blade and flat round ) to break pieces of the nut away which was quite brittle. After removing about 1/8 of the nut's top and tapered portion, it began to turn out with a pipe wrench. Next, the spinner would not lift out off the shaft, so I had to remove the entire tub and transmission assembly (but with the spinner basket attached) as instructed by the paper stored within the control panel. I removed the tub support bracket and motor assembly and the pulley off the transmission (pieces of the brake pad fell out). Using a 2X6 piece of lumber, I fabricated 2 semi circular pieces to fit within the 20 inch diameter of the spinner basket and secured their position with another piece of wood. I attached eye hooks to the wood and with rope,hung the entire assembly over an I beam with the transmission in the 5 gallon bucket and the tub suspended only about an inch above the bucket. I hammered on the agitator shaft until the tub and transmission fell the inch as it separated from the spinner basket. After this, it was just cleaning the areas receiving new parts. I did use a sealant around the new tub seal edges and bottom when assembling. Other than having to tap 1/4- 20 threads in the new transmission brake flange (new part had no threads in the holes) the reassembly went fine. I did have to retighten the new 1 11/16 nut after the first use because the new brake pad really stopped the basket from spinning, but the momentom loosened the nut after 3 loads of wash.
30 of 43 people found this instruction helpful.
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Eric from Oak Harbor, WA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH02X10383
Grind noise becoming worse
Used the repair instruction paper behind the washer control panel and used the online parts diagram. Also the online responces from other customer repairs gave me the idea to take a small pipe wrench (with a sock over the bottom of handle) and tap it with a 10 lb sledge hammer to remove the alumium hub nut. *** It is a backwards threaded nut **** I did not know I was going the wrong way until I looked at the new nut and noticed it's reverse threaded!!! After that it was just taking everything apart and putting it back the way you found it.
27 of 39 people found this instruction helpful.
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Gary from QUEEN CREEK, AZ
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
WH02X10383, WH02X10265, WH2X1199, WH2X1198, WH2X1197
Loud noise, burning smell during spin cycle
The video with Steve is invaluable. I followed the video to replace the tub bearing. Had to jump over to the tub seal video to make sure I got it seated into the outer tub correctly. The tub bearing video skips past the seal part. Be aware that the video cut aways can be a considerable amount of time. Highly recommend a few things: 1) if you think you need to replace one of the things on my parts list (bearing, washer, seal, etc) then just replace everything at once. It's not worth it to try to reuse old nasty parts. All of the parts + 1 11/16 spanner wrench came to around 60 bucks. 2) get the washer out of its confined area and give yourself some room to work on it. I took the time to shuffle it out into my garage and setup a table to spread out the parts and tools. This procedure is a complete washer dismantle job. So take your time and be patient. 3) the aluminum hub nut is a bugger. I had to use penetrating oil and make a couple of small angled cuts with a hacksaw to relieve the tension between the nut and transmission shaft. 4) the main lower tub bearing (bushing) was also a bugger and all gummed up and rusty. Be very careful getting it out. You don't want to ruin the integrity of the outer tub cavity that it goes into. Light taps and patience using the butt end of a hammer and flat blade screwdrivers. From beginning to end, with a few breaks to let the penetrating oil do its thing, it took about four hours. I took my time, reviewed the videos throughout that time, and I've never worked on a washing machine before.
19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Richard from Spring City, PA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH1X2026, WH02X10383
Excessive agitator side movement
Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.

She led a good life.

My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..
17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dennis from Chilhowie, VA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
WH02X10265, WH2X1199, WH2X1197, WH2X1193, WH1X2026, WH02X10383
transmission leaking grease
removed front cover the agitater then cover over large nut then large nut then inner tub then split ring and tub bearing then disconnected the hardware around the outer tub then replaced transmission then put back together in reverse order.
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Robert from HOLLAND, MI
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Parts Used:
WH01X10302, WH2X1198, WH2X1197, WH1X2727
Very Noisy In Spin
When disassembling I could not remove the 1 3/4" tub nut with in house tools and had to order the spanner wrench. Almost mandatory unless you have a socket wrench.
12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful.
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Tub Seal
$8.98
PartSelect #: PS4704237
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. Its the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. If your washer is leaking during the fill cycle, or at agitation time, your...
Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS271509
Manufacturer Part Number: WH2X1197
Brand
Model Number
Description
General Electric
51451Y1WW
Washer
General Electric
51451Y2WW
Washer
General Electric
52120TAWB
Washer
General Electric
56021A0WW
Washer
General Electric
56031A0WW
Washer
General Electric
56041A0WW
Washer
General Electric
56051A0WW
Washer
General Electric
56121T2WW
Washer
General Electric
56121T3WW
Washer
General Electric
56121T4WW
Washer
General Electric
56121T5WW
Washer
General Electric
56121T8WW
Washer
General Electric
56121TAWW
Washer
General Electric
56121TBWW
Washer
General Electric
56200T2WB
Washer
General Electric
56200T3WB
Washer
General Electric
56200T5WB
Washer
General Electric
56220T6WW
Washer
General Electric
56220T8WW
Washer
General Electric
56220TAWW
Washer
General Electric
56220TBWW
Washer
General Electric
56221B0WW
Washer
General Electric
56221B1WW
Washer
General Electric
56221B2WW
Washer
General Electric
56221B3WW
Washer
General Electric
56221T6WW
Washer
General Electric
56231B0WW
Washer
General Electric
56231B1WW
Washer
General Electric
56231B2WW
Washer
General Electric
56231B3WW
Washer