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Replacing your General Electric Range Trim Ring - 6 Inch play video
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Trim Ring - 6 Inch

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PartSelect Number PS244475
Manufacturer Part Number WB31X5013
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Trim Ring - 6 Inch Specifications

This 6 inch high rise burner trim ring is intended for use with detached style low rise tilt lock surface mount burners on ranges.
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Troubleshooting
This part works with the following products:
Range, Microwave Oven Combo, Cooktop.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WB31X5013 replaces these:
AP2028085, 5, 340525, WB31X0056, WB31X5008, WB31X5013A, WB31X5013B, WB31X5013DS, WB31X5013R, WB31X5015, WB31X56
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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Range Trim Ring - 6 Inch

Replacing your General Electric Range Trim Ring - 6 Inch play video
Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 4.6 / 5.0, 35 reviews. What's this?
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Needed to replace Drip Pans and Trim Rings for old stove
Repair was simple (just lift off the old and put on the new). What was pleasantly surprising was how quickly I received the parts (amazing)!

Lastly, I've been looking for the correct parts/sizes in stores for years (yes, I should have tried this sooner). I was delighted to finally find a place that actually had the correct parts.
36 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burners Heated Irratically
1. Pulled out drawer
2. Vacuumed dust, etc. under stove
3. Reached under stove to rear and pulled plug
4. Pulled the stove out away from wall so I could get to back
5. Removed 5 screws that retained the back of the control panel
6. One by one, I removed each wire from an old control and pushed it onto the same pin on the new control - did same for all 4 burner controls
7. Removed the knobs
8. Removed 2 screws from the front panel for each old control and removed the old controls
9. Pushed each of the new controls into place on the panel and reused screws to secure them in place
10. Cut the long control stems using 2 pliers per instructions to match length of old controls.
11. Used knob adapters provided to mate the old knobs to the new control stems
12. Plugged the stove in and tested the burners
13. Unplugged and replace the panel back with original screws
14. Moved stove back into place
15. The right front burner was the one most used, so I replaced the connector for that burner.
16. That connector came with instructions that I followed - cut the wires to the old connector, splice the wires to the new connector wires using supplied wire nuts and shrink tubing.
17. Plugged the stove back in
18. Replaced drawer - job complete - stove like new
12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old Drip bowls and Rings
Received the Drip bowls and Rings very quickly. Opened the box and then cut open the plastic wrap that the individual rings and drip bowls were in. Lifted the burner on the stove top, took out the old ring and drip bowl. Installed the shiny new drip bowl and ring, then lowered the stove top element back into place. I was able to replace all 4 of them within 5 minutes. Made the 30 year old stove look brand new.Thank you for perfect fit parts and fast delivery.
11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burners were 50 years old, yes 50. They still worked but were beginning to show the use that they have had over the years.
I did the repairs by first shutting down the power and then checking with a tic tester to make sure power was off. Removed one burner at a time by unscrewing the holding screw on the hinge and then removed the ceramic insulator cover and then disconnected the wiring. I drew a schematic for the 3 wire leads (240 volts). Unscrewed them and removed the burner. Cleaned stove top, put burner back in reverse order. Very easy project. Stove top looks as good as it did when it was new.
  • Deborah from Streator, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WB31X5013, WB30X354, WB30X342
9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drip bowls WAY out of style
So this ancient stove we inherited when we bought our house had the drip bowls wrapped in tin foil. We've searched EVERY (not joking) store in our area for drip bowls that would fit it, but apparently Hotpoint wanted to make sure you could never do this - well, at least not easily. No one, not one store carries drip bowls to fit it. I finally searched online and partselect.com came up first on the list. I was amazed they had the right part! Better yet, ordering was beyond easy, and they came super quick. Popped in the parts in less than 2 minutes, and we're good to go - makes this old stove look new! (well, if this was the 80's, lol) When I clicked on the part it said which stoves it would fit, which was also very helpful. Thank goodness for Part Select! Otherwise we would've had to rewrap those disgusting old bowls... I'd recommend this site in a heartbeat!
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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front 6 inch and 8 inch burners gave up after 41 years.
It took about 20 min to flip the breaker off and remove the 2 hinge screws and disassemble the 3 wires on each burner and reattach same to new burners. All the hardware was included with the parts went together fast. Flip the breaker back on and everything works perfect.
Parts Select was the only place I could find replacement parts for such an old cooktop.
Thanks, Jerry
  • Jerry from Hollywood, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WB31X5013, WB30X354, WB30X342
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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pans old and rusty and needed replacement
I had called GE for the part numbers from the 1970's GE range. Then entered the part number on this web site. The cost from GE for four reflector pans/rings would have been $130. The price I paid here was $60. Both prices included the shipping. I received the order in a few days from Fed Ex. Wrapped in original GE plastic.

Thank you so much.
4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Needed To Replace Drip Bowl
I just replaced them.
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bad switch plus a disintegrating element
Moved into a house built in 1976 about 7 years ago that came with an old but nice looking GE electric stove.
Stove worked well until about a year ago when the switch for the 8" element became erratic. Having been raised where DIYS was SOP I didn't even consider calling for help instead, armed with the stove model number, I went to the internet (How on earth did I ever survive before internet?) and found this site where I quickly found the exploded view of my stove, IDed the switch, ordered and received it within a day or so. Fantastic turn around time!

Now I've never ever worked on an electric stove so I was quite methodical in my approach.

First I read the instructions (you know, when all else fails…) that came with the new switch, then I pulled the stove out, unplugged it and removed the tin back that covers the switches. I drew a diagram of the old switch orientation and which wires attached to what. Then I disconnected the wires, removed the knob and the two screws hiding behind it that hold the switch to the stove.

Oops, the new switch was not identical to the old!!

First: I noticed was that the stem for the knob was longer BUT they proved break off notches so that it can be shortened.
Second: the stem on the old switch was a half round while the new stem was square. I tried the 'half round' knob on the square stem and it went on firmly. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Third: the terminal orientation did not match. So armed with my diagram and the instructions I made sure I knew which terminal was which (they are labeled). Once assured I knew what went where (I made notes) I installed the new switch and attached the wires (following my notes).

Being an optimist I reinstalled the tin back, plugged the stove in and pushed it back into position before (with my legs, arms and fingers crossed) I tested the switch (which was not easy considering the position I was in). Lo and behold, no puff of smoke and…ta-da…everything worked as it should.

All in all, upon receiving the switch the whole thing took less than 30 minutes.

Recent.

Less than two weeks ago one of the 6" elements fell apart, still worked but lost the supports that rest on the trim ring. Back to the internet to ordered a new element and new trim rings (just for the cosmetics). Again great service, I think I received my order the second day.

Along with the element they also supply new screws plus the spring clips which hold the ceramic insulator together. There's only two wires to contend with so its easy to determine which is the left wire and which is the right. The old terminal screws were locked in pretty good so I used pliers to hold the terminal while loosening them. There's very little slack in the wires so it was a tad awkward reattaching them to the new element.
I did notice that the threaded hole on the new element seemed to be slightly larger than the old. I noticed this when I used the old screws, one would tighten, the other did not so I replaced with the screws they supplied (Duh!). Well I do have an excuse, the new screws were longer which I feared would prevent the insulator from 'closing'.
I probably spent the most time attaching the insulator. I found I needed to fiddle with position of the terminals before the two halves of the insulator would meet. I splayed the wires out slightly then cocked the wire ends slightly so that the wires would neatly leave the side of the insulator. I also adjusted the terminals and the bendable wire part on the element so that they were parallel to each other.

ANYBODY can do this
  • John from Merriam Woods, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WB31X5014, WB31X5013, WB30X359
3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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Burner would not heat
First I made sure the electricity was off. Then, I flipped the burner up, and loosened the screwon the hinge. This allowed the burner to extend onto the cook surface. After loosening the clips holding the ceramic insulator together, the wires to the element were exposed. The wires were then transferred to the new burner element from their corresponding position on the old one. The new ceramic insulator was affixed over the wire with clips, and the hinge reattached. The chrome ring was worked over the burner, and the burner reseated in its proper cook poistion. Testing confirmed the burner to now work as new.
  • David from Madera, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WB31X5013, WB30X342
3 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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