
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
$
22.71
In Stock



Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.
PartSelect Number PS242972
Manufacturer Part Number WB2X8228
Manufactured by
GE
Product Description
Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit Specifications
Also known as receptacle.
How Buying OEM Parts Can Save You Time and Money
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Element will not heat | Will Not Start
This part works with the following products:
Range, Cooktop.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Hotpoint, Kenmore.
Part# WB2X8228 replaces these:
AP2013499, 250535, WB2X8228, WB02X8228, WB62X5358, WB62X5393, WB62X5397, WB62X5401, WB62X5405
Questions and Answers
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Chris
December 30, 2017
What is the difference between the two burner receptacle block kits listed? Part 741 and 961 on the diagram
For model number rb757wh1ww

Hello Chris, Thank you for your inquiry. 741 part# WB2X8228 is just the receptacle with wires, and 961 part# WB17T10006 is a more complete kit with the actual terminal block, additional wires and the mounting clips. Hope this helps!
14 people found this helpful.
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Sharon
February 17, 2018
My burner went to red hot on low. Do I need just the receptacle with wires and will this fix my problem?
For model number RB525V4

Hello Sharon,
Thanks for your question. This typically arises due to a faulty infinite switch, part number PS235991. We would advise testing the part with a multimeter to see if it has electrical continuity and replacing it if it shows no continuity.
I hope this helps.
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Matthew
April 14, 2018
2 elements only work on high they shut off on lower setting what part do i need 2 replace
For model number JBP66B Y2WH

Hello Matthew, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: Infinite Switch Kit, the elements, the power terminal block kit, and the electronic clock control. Also double check the wiring for any visible damage. You can check the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!
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Terry
January 17, 2019
Right front coil burner will not heat when turned on, control panel light illuminates but burner will not heat. Hope you can help with solving this problem.
For model number JDS28DF1WW

Hello Terry, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: 6" Surface Burner Switch - 1560W, Surface Heating Element, and the Surface Burner Terminal Block kit. You can test the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!
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Stanley
February 19, 2019
The oven heats and broils but none of the 4 burners work on the stovetop. What could be the problem?
For model number JBS27WC1WW

Hello Stanley, Thank you for the question. If none of the cooktop elements are working I would suggest checking the wiring. Since there is not one part that controls all the top elements, it sounds like a wiring issue. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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JOY
March 5, 2019
My maintenance guy replaced burner receptacle today. It is not recessed back far enough for the burner to fit back into place. The new receptacle clearly does not match the other 3 burners. The old receptacles are deeper with horizontal grooves that slice down the middle of the plug in slots which are vertical. I have a part number of wb2x8228. Is this the deeper receptacle with the horizontal grooves. I need to make sure i'm giving the right part number to the maintenance guy so he can get the right on in there. The new receptacle is too shallow with no horizontal grooves in it.
For model number R B525 V1AD

Hello Joy, thank you for contacting us. The correct Terminal Block Kit is PS232636.
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Barry
October 10, 2019
Part 741 and 961, if 961 is more complete kit, why it even cheaper than 741 which is only the terminal & wire. Does wire factory pre-connected to the terminal on 961 ?
For model number JBP21BC3WH

Hello Barry, thank you for writing. The Kits only contain enough parts to replace one Element Terminal Block each. They are for different Surface Elements on your range. The larger Surface Elements use part number PS242972, and the smaller Surface Elements use part number PS783534. Good luck with your repair!
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Range Surface Burner Terminal Block Kit
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.1 / 5.0, 32 reviews.
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The Bake-o-lite (Hard Plastic) block that holds the burners female connection in place had chipped away over time and wouldn't allow the male part of the burner to connect up correctly.
After unplugging the range I took the rear sheet metal panel at the top off with a nut driver to expose the wiring connections. The next step was to remove the single screw holding the old part in place. (under the drip pan) Once free I snipped the old part from the wires and then taped the new female ends to the old wires with black electrical tape. From rear I carfully pulled the old wires through the back until I could reach the new wiring connections. Unplugged old, plugged in new and replaced the rear metal cover. Then I put the screw that holds the new block bracket in place, replaced drip pan, and burner. The final step was to plug the range back in and check to see if the burner worked. It did and I was done. Approx. 5 minutes
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Robert from Mt. Vernon, IN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Parts Used:WB2X8228
110 of 112 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Front burner would not heat up
1. Pull out range and unplug from socket.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
2. Lift range lid.
3. Remove back panel. Loosen the 6 - 1/4" nuts, then lift up slightly, which compresses the "latch" at the top middle. Let down and panel comes off easily.
(Note: Do not remove wires yet)
4. Remove control knob from front panel by pulling gently, exposing 2 small tap screws
5. unscrew the 2 small tap screws, freeing the switch.
6. NOTE THE EXISTING WIRING! Each terminal has a letter. Take a photo or drawing for reference, because the new switch's post locations were not the same as the old.
7. In my case I had to replace the terminal block kit with a new one. (don't try the aftermarket one's at Home Depot...bad idea event though they say Hotpoint) so I ran those wires first. Easy removal of old, only one wire clip, then fish the wires through. Secure with tap screw at burner location.
8. Hook up the wires. The ones coming from the burner don't seem to matter which one goes to which post but make sure you're replacing them on the posts that the original were on. What I did was just unhook the old posts one at a time and find the corresponding letter on the new one.
9. Break off stem at length of old switch with pliers. make sure you find where off and on are on the switch. Orient the off at the top, then push through from back of range.
10. Screw the 2 tap screws in, securing the switch.
11. Place the orange retainer oriented with flat side the same as the knob, and push the knob back in place.
12. Close lid, replace back panel
13. Insert drip pan/burner into terminal block and secure in drip pan. If your burner plugs are corroded or exposed, replace the burner as it will short out.
14. Plug in to socket and test before pushing range back into place.
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Scott from Olathe, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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77 of 110 people
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8"burner would only heat on high
First I made sure the power was off then I removed the back cover. I took the new switch in hand and took one wire at a time from the old switch and put them on the new switch. I removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one. Made test to be sure it worked. Replaced back cover, job finished.
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Johnnie from Cheraw, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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32 of 45 people
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Burner was not working and the local appliance store could not locate a part so I decided to repair it myself
I easily removed the element, then the socket I followed the wiring down beneath the drip pan to where it plugged into the control knob. I simply unplugged the old part and plugged in the new socket, rerouted the wires and assembled the stove top with a new burner in place.
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Michael from Lutsen, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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19 of 29 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terminal block and 8" element shorted
Unpluged range. Removed back cover to access the infinite switches . removed old burner and drip pan. removed terminal block and retaining screw on cooktop. removed terminal block wiring from infinite switch taking care to mind were the wires came from. Install new terminal block and reattached to cooktop . installed new 8" burner and drip pan reinstalled back panel and plug in electrical to unit . tested burner . replaced stove after verifying burner worked
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Angelo from Duson, LA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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11 of 12 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Terminal block melted
First I unplugged the stove, then lifted the stovetop, then took off the top panel on the back and disconnected the two wires. Then unscrewed the terminal block and put the new one in its place. Lowered the top inserted the eye and replaced the back panel. Works great!
This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.
This is the second time in a few months that I replaced this terminal block, so I made sure the contacts were clean and smooth. I also made sure the contacts were completely inserted in the block.
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J. Michael from Westfield, NC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Parts Used:WB2X8228
8 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Burnt out Terminal Block
Removed the burner coil.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.
Unscrewed the terminal block.
Pulled out the stove and disconnected the 220 Volt service at the plug.
Removed the back panel at the control knobs.
Detached the wiring to the control knob and pulled thru the back panel.
Wiring mostly visable to the front 8 inch burner.
Replaced wiring and mounted new terminal block.
Tested the burner for a few seconds.
Replaced back panel and set stove in place.
Saved $150 dollar service call.
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Richard from Hilton Head, SC
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Parts Used:WB2X8228
5 of 7 people
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Burner terminal block unstable due to corrosion; potential electrical fire hazard
This appeared to be an easy fix, but turned out to be more involved than I planned. The hard part was pulling the range/microwave oven assembly away from the wall so I could remove the back panel and see how the new terminal block wires connected up to the switch/knob that operates the burner. Extracting the whole range unit required me to use a floor jack to raise the leveling feet of the range above the edge of my floor tile so I could slide the unit out. Once away from the wall, I used a nut driver to remove the back panels. Next surprise was the new terminal block wire connectors were not the same type as the old block's connectors (flat vs. male pin-type). Rather than let the scope of this job creep to include a whole new connector rig, I opted to splice the new terminal block wires onto the existing wires that led up to the control knob. I used professional splices and a crimping tool to secure the wires. After checking the new installation was sound and operational, I slid the whole range back into place. Attaching the new terminal block to the range top was a piece of cake, but getting the damn oven out into open space where I could work on it was bear. But, hey, I learned a few things, one of which is that when a homeowner decides to retile their kitchen, make sure you run the new tiles all the way under the range and not just up to the front edge of the oven. I can see why this was done - to avoid having to remove the oven during the retiling - but it creates an obstacle for whenever the oven needs to be pulled away from its location. The last tool I imagined I would need for this repair was a car jack. The Parts Select part worked fine.
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James from Tarpon Springs, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Parts Used:WB2X8228
4 of 4 people
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wire burned on surface terminal block
I am a 62 y/o single female and was able to make this exchange of parts with ease. The toughest was getting the old terminal's wire clips free from years of gunk! I was pleased with the ease of installation and that it really worked afterwards. By the way, thank you Parts Select for getting this part to me very quickly. If a novice can diagnose, find the correct part and install it with success then anyone could do the same.
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KATHY from SOUTH FULTON, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Parts Used:WB2X8228
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
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burners burnt out
Removed 4 screws holding the control panel removed the receptacle wires removed the screw holding the receptacle in place. Inserted the new receptacle screwed it in inserted the the wires to control knob. Screwed the control panel in place. Replaced 2 burners and 2 elements with in a half hour. Simple. Received the parts with in a few days. Will order from here for now on. Before we ordered looked for parts everywhere could not find them. Thanks
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Robin from Lansdowne, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
Filter By Rating:
Search filter:
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Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
Penny E - June 13, 2020

Simple, easy fix.
The parts I order always come quick and are easy to replace.
Russell A - April 15, 2020

Perfect fix
Part arrived fast and fit perfectly. The video was a great help.
Joan B - January 23, 2020

Perfect
Part is just what was needed. Easy ordering and fast delivery. Recommend
Part Select.
Patricia H - June 4, 2019

Easy to install
Back to cooking??Fast delivery!
FRED S - December 13, 2018

Easy repair. Great part.
Since the part was installed in a diferent brand stove, I cut off the wire clips and used wire nuts instead. Everything else was installed easily.
Donovan R - November 26, 2018

Easy repair and working as it should
The parts I received were good as I expected and no problems with the installation. With the holiday the parts were slow getting here but they are in and working
James H - November 21, 2018

Easy job
Part exactly what I needed
William B - October 31, 2018

Arrived in good condition
Stove top is back in good working condition!
Jeffery S - October 13, 2018

Easy Repair....
The part was as advertised, and the installation video was easy to follow. Thanks.
Al S - October 4, 2018

No complaints
The part was exactly as pictured, and fit into place as advertised. So far, the surface burner is working perfectly again.
Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS242972
Manufacturer Part Number: WB2X8228
Manufacturer Part Number: WB2X8228
Brand
Model Number
Description
