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Oven Sensor

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4 Reviews
$ 105.34   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS236043
Manufacturer Part Number WB21X5301
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Oven Sensor Specifications

It is possible that your oven is cold because of a fault in the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor regulates oven temperature in modern ranges, like a thermostat. It is on the back wall near the broiler on the top wall. On a newer oven, there may be a fault code displayed. Faulty temperature sensors are often responsible for F3 and F4 error messages on an electric range. Check your manual or the manufacturer website to find out the proper resistance of the temperature sensor. To check your sensor, unplug the oven and use a multi-meter to see if your sensor is at the correct resistance.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Little to no heat when baking | Oven not heating evenly | Oven is too hot | Will Not Start
This part works with the following products:
Range, Wall Oven, Microwave Oven Combo.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint, RCA.
Part# WB21X5301 replaces these:
AP2023670, 252618, WB21X5301, 334300, 347163, 347183, 4337170, 65939, WB08K5007, WB20K0004, WB20K4, WB20X0106, WB20X106, WB21X5263, WB21X5275, WB21X5296, WB21X5318, WB21X5321, WB21X5347, WB8K5007
Questions and Answers

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21 questions answered by our experts.
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Willie J. Brooks
September 16, 2017
Initially we were getting error codes f2, f3 and then f5 when baking at temperature greater than 325 degrees. On last week, we changed out the oven sensor and today again we are receiving error codes f2, f3 and f5 with the bake temperature set at 325 degrees.. we turned off the oven for 30 minutes and turned back on to bake at temperature 300. why are we still experiencing error codes f2, f3 and f5 after changing out the oven sensor.
For model number JSP2680W1AD
Hello Willie, thank you for contacting us. These codes still point to a faulty temp sensor. It could even be just a loose connection. You can test the sensor with a multi meter, once it is at room temp, the ohms reading should be 1100 or less. Good luck with the repair!

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Nelson Biggs
January 25, 2018
When setting the oven temp to any temp. The display goes to the desired temp but the oven doesn't keep that temp. Is it the heating element or the thermostat that is bad
For model number GE JRSO4BOW5BB
Hello Nelson, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: temperature sensor, control board, and bake/broil element. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Jesus
November 5, 2018
Stove top burners and broiler ignite and consistently operate well and cook to our satisfaction.Approximately two years ago oven igniter would only ignite when selecting the self clean cycle. shortly thereafter, the oven igniter ceased to ignite regardless the mode selected. yesterday when troubleshooting oven i was able to get oven to function properly and oven ignitor working properly while maintaining oven temperature of 350 degrees for over three hours. i was not able to reproduce fault which has kept my wife from attempting to use oven over the last two years. is it possible for a weak or faulty oven ignitor to function properly over the course three hours and intermittently fail on other days? if so, i will gladly replace the igniter part. also, would a faulty control board, oven thermostat or safety gas valve function properly one day while not another day? i simply ask about control board, thermostat and safety valve to rule them out as faulty part.
For model number rgb745beh4ct
Hello Jesus, thank you for your question. Yes, a weak oven igniter might work sometimes, and other times will not. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. I would also recommend you test the sensor part number PS236043. At room temperature this the ohms reading should be 1100 or less. If the sensor is good, and the igniter is replaced and it still doesn't functions properly the issue would probably the be board. I hope this helps!

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Bob Goldblatt
November 28, 2018
Depress bake and set temperature 350, oven heats and runs for about 15 minutes. does get up to temperature however the bake light goes out . I can again depress bake and start the process over the oven will heat again. I see no error codes on led control panel . Any idea's stove is about 23 years old i have replaced the lower bake element about a year ago and it was running ok. Thanks for any help or idea's you can provide
For model number JSP38GV1BB
Hello Bob, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Sensor. Testing the temperature sensor probe on your oven is easy. With the sensor at room temperature, measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080 – 1090 ohms at room temperature. Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!

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Susan
October 22, 2019
In regards to my previous question and your answer. I have an electric range, my burners all work, it’s the oven that is the issue. I have researched and have possibly come up with either the thermos bad or the probe. Would this give me the code 133 c###?
For model number JB710DT2BB
Hello Susan and thanks for writing. Error F-133 is for an Oven temperature sensor (RTD). The tech sheet says to do the following: (1) Check all heater, sensor, and wire harness connectors. Make sure they are tight and secure. Check the heater ribbon for possible damage. (2) Remove the sensor connector from the board and measure RTD resistance. Should read from 1030-1150 Ohms (46°F-102°F.) If it does not, replace the heater and recalibrate inductive sensors. (3) If the fault persists, replace the mainboard and recalibrate inductive sensors. Good Luck with your repair.

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Joseph
February 25, 2020
The bottom burner of the oven will not light. The top broiler works just fine i have already replaced the igniter unit on the bottom with no success. Please advise as to next best probable cause.Thanks
For model number RGB745BEA2WH
Hello Joseph, thank you for writing. We advise testing the Oven Sensor as it may have gone faulty. You can test the sensor with a multi meter, once it is at room temp, the ohms reading should be 1100 or less. Good luck with your repair.

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Debbie
December 19, 2018
I've replaced the igniter. (the old one read ol; the new one reads ~340 ohms.) the igniter glows, the bake element lights, it appears that the oven is heating, then everything shuts off. I checked the temp sensor; it reads 1085 ohms, as advertised. What should i try next? Thank you!
For model number JGBP35GEP4
Hello Debbie, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing the regulator Part Number: PS233874 and the valve Part Number: PS233873. If these are working properly the issue would be with the electronic control board. I hope this helps!

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David
March 16, 2018
Oven is too cold off 50 degrees (set 350 temp 300) wondering if it could be something beside prob, elements get hot (red) does this stove have a temp. Adjustment?
For model number JSP34BD2BB
Hi David, Thank you for your question. There are only three parts that could cause the issue. The oven element, the temperature sensor, or the electronic control board. I would suggest testing your oven sensor first and maybe your element. Those are the only ones that you can actually test to see if they are working. You would just need a multi meter for that. If they are both working fine, then you may have to look into your electronic control board being the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Kevin
June 4, 2019
My oven doesn't heat the top burner, the burner is fine has continuity and it works in the bottom outlet. When the oven is on no power goes to the upper burner. Could the oven sensor cause this?
For model number GRSR3955zww-1
Hi Kevin, Thank you for your question. If the oven is not heating correctly, then the issue is likely with the oven sensor, sometimes called the oven thermostat, and you will need to check it with a multimeter. When testing the sensor with a multimeter, the sensor should be tested at room temperature and it should be unplugged from the oven. You will need to measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. Replace the oven sensor if the reading is less than 900 Ohms or more than 1200 Ohms. If the sensor checks out fine, you will need to check the electronic control board and the wiring connected between it and the other parts to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Meri
September 3, 2019
When using oven it will quit all by itself. Have a hard time getting it to re- start by pushing "bake" on the pad. Can you help? Meri
For model number 10561-3
Hello Meri, Thank you for the question. This sounds like it might be an issue with the Timer Control Board, PartSelect Number PS3493469. This board controls the oven operations. I looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued sorry. There are no part substitutions listed. My suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers. Hope this helps!

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Part Videos

Replacing your General Electric Range Oven Sensor

Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 10 reviews. What's this?
    Sort by:
    Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
    Oven tempature was approximately 150 degrees to low
    This repair is EASY if you know how to use an ohm meter. If not, seek help for this step.

    SYMPTOM:
    The oven (JKP27WOP3WG or JKP27WP3WG and many ovens like it ) was not getting hot enough. Verifying the cooking temperature with an typical oven thermometer, I was able to determine that the oven was cooking temperature was about 150 degrees to low.

    FAILURE POINTS:
    There are two logical failure points (1) The oven sensor ( WB21X5301 about $75), or the (2) the controller board (PS238233 about $252). In my case it was the controller board. When replaced the oven worked beautifully.

    REPAIR:
    As with any repair, you MUST DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE SERVICING!!!

    Pull oven from the wall:
    - Disconnect power by flipping the circuit breaker to the OFF position.
    - Remove the top flange / cowling from the top of the oven (it just pulls off)
    - Remove two screws under the top flange / cowling
    - The whole unit easily slides out, but it is highly recommended that you use two people to place the oven on the floor.

    As a diagnostic between these two parts, if the oven sensors measure approximately 1.1K ohms of resistance at room temperature, then it is probably not the sensor. The oven sensor wires are connected to two white wires that run up to the controller board. You need to disconnect the oven sensor to make the measurement. You may either completely remove the oven sensor by cutting the wire (be sure to allow yourself enough slack so that they may be safely reconnected) where it connects to the white wires, OR, (preferred method) if leaving the oven sensor partially installed,
    - Remove the top sheet metal cover (10 screws)
    - Remove the service connect cover (2 screws - this is where the main Power cord comes into the unit)
    - Disconnect the white wires from the controller board (this connector which also includes other circuits is on the left side when looking at the controller board).
    - Remove two screws from oven sensor but just let in dangle down so that you can put the sensor in the ice water / boiling water.

    Measure the resistance under the following conditions. Your ohm meter should read APPROXIMATELY...
    - 1.02K ohms in ice water
    - 1.09K ohms at room temperature
    - 1.36K ohms in boiling water.
    If you get approximately these readings, then it is NOT the oven sensor. If that checks out then re-install the sensor AND the connector.

    If it is NOT the sensor, replace the controller board.
    - Take a moment to write down the color of the wire to the LETTERING (N, L, G, C / COM,,,) on the controller board. The connectors are in different locations on the new controller board so the wire color to the letter designation is significant.
    - Carefully remove the wires one at a time
    - VERY carefully remove the keypad ribbon cable from the right side of the controller board.
    -- The ribbon cable will disconnect by releasing some little pressure clips on the side of the connector.
    - Remove the controller board (4 screws)
    - Install new controller board (4 screws)
    - VERY carefully connect the keypad ribbon cable on the right side.
    -- Make sure that the connector is in the OPEN position first, then,
    -- Slide in the cable ensuring that all parts of the ribbon made it into the connector, then
    -- Press down on the connector locking tabs.
    - Reconnect each wire to the correctly lettering on the board.
    -- Again, the connectors MAY BE in a different order on the replacement controller board. Match color to letter.
    - Reconnect the (5 wire?) connector that includes the white oven sensor wires.
    - Make sure everything looks normal, (i.e. no wires are pinched, remove tools from top of oven area, etc.)
    - Re-install top cover.
    - Re-install service connect cover.

    You can test the unit while it is out of the cabinet,
    - Make SURE that all sheet metal covers are in place.
    - Flip power breaker to "On".
    - Test that oven gets to the desired temp.
    • James from Austin, TX
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      1- 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    214 of 246 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Gas oven stove temperature 125 - 100 degrees below normal
    My Hotpoint gas stove was not operating at normal temperature. This was operating in a basic range of 125 - 100 degrees below normal. After going through numerous troubleshooting posts, I came to the conclusion the sensor was my first place to check. I did not want to drop $100 for a sensor if I did not need to, therefore, I decided that I needed to know how many ohms the sensor registered in my stove. The sensor need to be 1100 ohms and after using my digital multi-meter,( Analog meter would do for this job as well) sure enough the sensor did register 1100 ohms. I then started troubleshooting other components such as igniter, gas values, etc... All resulting in everything testing out good. That is what really puzzled me. Other posts of people having similar symptoms as my oven always came back to the sensor as the problem. Then I noticed that the cleaning temperature of the sensor needed to be 2600 ohms or somewhere in that range. Therefore, I heated up the oven and tested the temperature of the heated sensor and my sensor registered 1650 ohms. I concluded that the sensor tested good at room temperature, however when heated up, it was not registering correctly. I took a chance and purchased the senor, installed the sensor, which was quite easy and only reqired removing a few screws inside the stove, removal of back panel, and unconnecting the wire attachments, and the oven now operates as new, and just in time for Thanksgiving. The really great thing was that I was a hero in the eyes of my wife this Thanksgiving.
    • Gary from Saxonburg, PA
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      15 - 30 mins
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
    • Parts Used:
      8009, WB21X5301
    38 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Oven would not heat to the correct temperature
    First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires
    • Michael from Lawrenceville, GA
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      Less than 15 mins
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    37 of 60 people found this instruction helpful.
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    F2 error message on my GE oven indicated need for new heat sensor
    After unscrewing the old heat sensor from inside the oven, I pulled the range away from the wall, got behind it and removed the small panel over the heat sensor. Naturally, the plastic clips connecting the heat sensor to the range wiring wouldn't come apart, so I eventually had to simply pry them apart with two pliers. Then, naturally, the new plastic connector clip on the replacement part didn't match the clip from the range, so I had to cut off both receptacles and strip the wires, then used the provided wire nuts to make the connections. After that, it was easy, just secured the heat sensor inside the oven and replaced the panel. I didn't push the range back against the wall until I tested the repair. It worked fine!
    • Joseph from Brick, NJ
    • Difficulty Level:
      A Bit Difficult
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Pliers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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    oven shut down code F3
    As has been said shut down unit,Breaker fuse.If you do not have install info.Get a copy on line. If you have another set of hands it would not hurt.! this has been stated before. Remove door, Remove 4 screws , to slide unit out,I used a saw horse with some cribing secured to the horse to get height, Pull the oven out so that the two front supports are on the saw horse,and the back two are up to the edge runner.I used about a 1 ft stool for working height. Remove the top elec. cover sheet metal 2 screws. You will see were the wireing runs down the back. Get a small mirror,and flash light. Look down the wire opening in the back, you see the sensor connection ,I made a hook out of a coat hanger to grab it with. Pull it up before you disconnect it ,tie a piece of string to the sensor side of the connector , use 2 Ft. then disconnect remove two screws from inside the oven. And remove,sensor tie string on to new sensor connector pull through and connect.on top.Then replace everything cck every thing Twice!Doing this i didn"t have to pull the unit all the way out! LATER GOOD LUCK!
    • Richard from Jupiter, FL
    • Difficulty Level:
      A Bit Difficult
    • Total Repair Time:
      1- 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful.
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    oven would not cook over 325 degrees and sometimes would burn your food.
    I removed the unit from the wall,removed the back panel to access the wires to the sensor,cut the plug off of the new sensor and strip the wires back,used the wire nuts to attach the new sensor,put all back together and slid back into the wall and works excellent.
    • phil from forney, TX
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      15 - 30 mins
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver, Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Oven not heating
    It was very easy I removed two screws unpluged the sensor and wire spliced it together and also replaced the modual on the top of the stove and it was that easy.
    • Joseph from Stuart, FL
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      15 - 30 mins
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Oven would not maintain set temperature
    No problem installing oven sensor, but I diagnose the problem wrong, I need to change(ERC-11)control p/n wb27k5140
    • Leonel from Biddeford, ME
    • Difficulty Level:
      Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    • Tools:
      Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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    Just follow the enclosed instructions
    Followed the instructions
    • HAROLD from Tucson, AZ
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      30 - 60 mins
    • Tools:
      Nutdriver
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301
    1 person found this instruction helpful.
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    key pad shot an F-3 fault code bad oven sensor
    ordered parts WB21X5301 oven sensor and 2 WB1X681 screws mine were bad highly recommended slid my stove out also a good time to clean all the years of junk behind it removed screws mine were bad unplug the connector slide the sensor cable through the hole and u are good after cleaning be hind stove slide back into spot reinstall power and code went away tested different temps with temp gauge and keypad and we were good
    • WILLIAM from ORANGE PARK, FL
    • Difficulty Level:
      Really Easy
    • Total Repair Time:
      1- 2 hours
    • Tools:
      Pliers, Screw drivers
    • Parts Used:
      WB21X5301, WB1X681
    1 person found this instruction helpful.
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      Customer Reviews
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          Model Cross Reference
          This part works with the following models:
          PartSelect Number: PS236043
          Manufacturer Part Number: WB21X5301
          Brand
          Model Number
          Description
          Kenmore
          1034688610
          Range
          General Electric
          10451-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10451-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10451-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10461-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10461-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10461-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10470-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10470-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10470-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10471-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10471-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10471-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10477-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10477-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10478-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10478-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10481-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10481-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10481-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10551-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10551-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10551-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10561-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10561-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10561-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10570-1
          Range
          General Electric
          10570-2
          Range
          General Electric
          10570-3
          Range
          General Electric
          10571-1
          Range

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