Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit 6-2095720 | Official Whirlpool Part | Fast Shipping | PartSelect
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720
Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720 Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720 Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit – Part Number: 6-2095720 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/37272.gif

Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit

PartSelect Number PS2351899

Manufacturer Part Number 6-2095720

Manufactured by Whirlpool

Product Description

Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit Specifications

This kit comes with a hub assembly, agitator seal, and spanner nut. If your washer leaks once it is full (with or without clothes in it) or leaks during agitation, then you should replace the seal. This part will also fix symptoms such as loud noises or the washer not agitating. The seal may become damaged or deteriorate over time and will need to be replaced. The mounting stem goes between the two tubs and seals the water into the tubs. When the water leaks, it goes into the bearing, which will cause it to also go bad, which is why you will likely change these at the same time.

How Buying OEM Parts Can Save You Time and Money

Troubleshooting

This part fixes the following symptoms:

Leaking | Noisy | Will not agitate | Shakes and moves

This part works with the following products:

Washer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part works with the following brands:

Maytag, International, Jenn-Air.

Part # 6-2095720 replaces these:

1478842, 201537, 202521, 204012, 211148, 2-11148, 211457, 2-11457, 2-1537, 22001556, 22001648, 22204012, 2-2521, 2-4012, 6-2095720, 82-012, AP4390013, J28-621.
Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
Sort by:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Part Videos

Replacing your Maytag Washer Mounting Stem/Tub Seal Kit

Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 36 reviews What's this?
Sort by:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
douglas from bonita springs, FL
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Parts Used:
6-2095720
water leaking from around center shaft below fixed tub
My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.
492 of 503 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Dan from Mason, OH
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
6-2095720, 6-2040130, WPY015667, WPY015666, WP22002417
Washer Leaking and Spin Cycle stopping frequenly
* Remove front Panel
* Remeove two screws that allow the top to hing up.
* Loosen set screw on agitator (1/4" socket)
* Remove Agitator
*Loosen spanner nut from mounting seal with hammer and punch remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Inner Tub
* Losen Mounting stem with Hammer and Punch- Remember to loosen, turn clockwise
* Remove Boot seal with hands
* Remove bolts from the three brackets that attach to the outer tub
* Remove Outer Tub hoses
* Remove outer Tub. CAREFUL, I cut my hands on sheet metal when outer tub broke free and came up
* Knock Outer tub bearing out with large block of wood
* Cut bearing sleeve off of the transmission with a drimmel tool and cutting wheel. It was siezed on and would not turn off. Also, first tried to chisel , but was too difficult
* Cleaned area where bearing sleeve came off with fine sandpaper
* Put small amount of non-permanent thread lock on transmission (bearing area) before installing the new bearing sleeve because the sleeve is not pressed on and I did not want it to turn freely
* I did not but new bolts for the outer tub 3 brackets, but noticed that they needed to be sealed. So I bought some rubber washers at hardware store
* I also used some stuff called CLR to clean some rust off of the outside of the INNER tank
* I replaced the O-ring on the top of the agitator shaft
Also, on the agitator shaft: To really do it right, I probably should have changed the agitator shaft because the old seal wore grooves into the shaft. I took my chances and cleaned it up with some fine metal sandpaper. I could not get the worn grooves completely smooth, but did not want to take off more material as I thought it may cause a leak. We'll see
* I just used a hammer and punch to retighten the mounting stem and Spanner nut. REMEMBER COUNTER CLOCKWISE TO TIGHTEN
* This was not too bad if you are somewhat mechanically inclined. I could have got a new washer, but quite frankly, I get more satisfaction from seeing the old one keep working
* One last thing...and this is mostly for the younger guys cause the older guys already know it. CLEAN EVERYTHING on the washer...make it look like NEW and tell your wife how much you saved. Make sure you have the parts and tools to do the job within a timeframe that you do not have to go to the laundry mat and do not leave a big mess. This advice will definately pay off.
GOOD LUCK
192 of 201 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Jonathan from Lavonia, GA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
6-2095720
leaked water when agitating in wash cycle
First I removed the screws that held the side panels on at the bottom, then I removed the screws that held the front panel on and removed the panel. I removed the agitator, loosened the retaining nut with a hammer and a punch, removed the bolts holding the tub springs, removed the bolts for the top panel and flipped it out of the way. Then I removed the clamp for the inner tub and pulled it out, then I pulled the outer tub out. Then I removed the seal and scrubbed the rust off the seal mating area, then installed the new seal and re-assembled the washer. It works perfectly now and no longer leaks and it is over 20 years old. This is the first bit of problem we have had out of this machine, the lonely Maytag repairman commercials are true.
47 of 51 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Beverly from Manchester, TN
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
6-2095720, WP22002417, WP6-2168983, WP22002340
shaft lock was damaged and agitator would not stay down in proper location
Made a 4 prong wrench from a 2" pipe coupling to remove retaining nut. Had to tap retaining washer a few times with hammer and after that it came off very easy. All other work was very easy. parts went together with ease. Saved company several $'s as we were told it was not recomended to repair and should replace washer. Under $100 for parts and a couple hours labor.
44 of 57 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Eric from Bonnots Mill, MO
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
6-2095720
Washer was leaking water onto the floor underneath
Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...
40 of 44 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Barry from Brooklyn, NY
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Parts Used:
6-2095720
Washer leaking badly and making loud noise on spin
Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.
18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Johnny from Cedarburg, WI
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Wrench set
Parts Used:
6-2095720, WPY015667, WP22002417, WP22002340
Agitator shaft and agitator came up and leaked water
lifted washer top, removed front panel, took punch and hammer to loosen collar (right to loosen- left to tighten) removed tub replaced seals and o-ring. then replaced the nylon retaining ring then reassembled. all works well now no leaks. Easy fix saved $500.00
18 of 26 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Mike from Beachwood, OH
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
Parts Used:
6-2095720
leak at trans. stem
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!
13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
jerry from haslet, TX
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
6-2095720
Leaking Tub Seal
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.
13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
jason from euless, TX
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Parts Used:
6-2095720
washer was leaking
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.
13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Customer Reviews
Average Rating:
13 Reviews
4.8
out of 5
Filter By Rating:
  • 5 Stars
    10
  • 4 Stars
    3
  • 3 Stars
    0
  • 2 Stars
    0
  • 1 Stars
    0
Sort by:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS2351899
Manufacturer Part Number: 6-2095720
Brand
Model Number
Description
Maytag
6329
Washer - MAYTAG AUTOMATIC WASHER
Maytag
6349
Washer - MAYTAG AUTOMATIC WASHER
Maytag
6359
Washer - MAYTAG AUTOMATIC WASHER
Maytag
A100S
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A101
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A102
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A102S
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A103
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A103S
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A104
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A105
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A106
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A106S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A107
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A107S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A108
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A108S
Washer - Residential
Maytag
A110
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A112
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A15CA
Washer
Maytag
A15CM
Washer
Maytag
A15CT
Washer
Maytag
A16CA
Washer
Maytag
A16CM
Washer
Maytag
A16CT
Washer
Maytag
A17CA
Washer
Maytag
A17CM
Washer
Maytag
A17CT
Washer
Maytag
A180
Washer - Top Loading
Maytag
A181
Washer - Top Loading