Door Switch - 250V W10211972

Hi Gordon, Thank you for your question. If your microwave is displaying "door" it is caused by either a bad door switch or a loose door switch mount. These issues can be caused by slamming the door or by failing to hot the cancel button before opening the door while the microwave is still running. You will need to check the door switch to make sure it is working correctly and you will need to check mounts to see if they are out of place. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hi Rebecca, Thank you for your question. It is likely the door switch you will need to check and you will need to use a multimeter to see if is is working correctly. A door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that prohibits the microwave from operating when the door is open. Microwave door switches are only an inch long. Most are black in color and all have metal prongs, called terminals, extending out from the body of the switch. Microwave door switches are normally mounted to a bracket near the door latch. Also, microwaves usually have three or four door switches. There is a latch (sometimes referred to as a hook) attached to the inside of your microwave door that comes in contact with and activates the door switch when the door is closed. Examine this prong first. You may not be experiencing any problems with your door switch. Perhaps the latch on the inside of your microwave door is missing or damaged, leaving it unable to activate the door switch. Some door switches have only two metal prongs extending from the body, while others have three. Those with three terminals will have a common (COM) terminal, a normally closed (N.C.) terminal, and a normally open (N.O.) terminal. Those switches with only two terminals will have either a common terminal and a normally open terminal, or a common terminal and a normally closed terminal. We are providing directions for testing a door switch with three terminals. If you are dealing with a door switch that has only two terminals, ignore the part of this test that does not apply to you. Using caution, remove all wiring harness leads from the switch's terminals. Be aware that some door switches may have a locking clip keeping the harness from coming loose. In this case, there is a protruding lever which must be depressed while the harness is gently pulled away from the terminal. Use your ohmmeter to test your switch for continuity. Begin by setting your ohmmeter to measure resistance at a scale of Rx1. If you are using an analog meter, touch the metal tips of the test leads together and zero your ohmmeter by adjusting the thumbwheel in the front of the meter until the needle reads '0' on the scale. Touch one meter lead to the COM terminal and the other lead to the N.O. terminal. Do not push in on the actuator. Your meter should give a reading of infinity, meaning the circuit is open, and there is no continuity. Without moving the meter's leads, press down on the actuator until you hear a 'click'. With the 'click' of the actuator, the meter should produce a resistance reading of zero ohms. This means the circuit is closed and continuity is present. Hint: The presence of a distinct 'clicking' noise is evidence that your switch is working as it should. Be that as it may, switches with only two terminals do not 'click' when actuated. Keep the meter lead that is touching the COM terminal in place, but move the other meter lead from the N.O. terminal to the N.C. terminal. You should receive a reading of infinity when you push in on the switch's actuator. When the actuator is released, you should receive a resistance reading of zero ohms. Now, set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale and touch one meter lead to the N.O. terminal and the other meter lead to the N.C. terminal. The resistance reading between these two leads should be infinite. Finally, take a resistance reading from both the N.C. terminal and the N.O. terminal to any metal mounting hardware that is a part of the switch assembly. You should receive a normal reading of infinity. Any readings that differ from the ones presented here are indicative of a defective door switch that will need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hi Jenn, Thank you for your inquiry. I was not able to find a video, but I have some information for you. Before beginning any repair, please unplug the appliance from the electrical outlet. Open the door and remove the screws securing the grill. Slide the grill to the left to release it. Next remove the screw on the left securing the control panel and loosen the screw behind the panel. Lift the panel up and pull it forward to detach. Now remove the screws to release the switch assembly. Depress the release tab and the actuator to detach the switch you are replacing. Disconnect the wire connector to fully release the old switch. Install the new door switch by first connecting the wire connector. Now position the new switch into the assembly and snap it into place. Realign the switch assembly on the frame and replace the screws to secure. Reposition the control panel. Tighten the screw behind the panel. Reposition the grill and slide it to the right and replace the screws. Plug the power cord back in and it should now work for you. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Hello Paul, Thanks for your question. This may be due to the interlock, part number PS11749178. This part should only be tested and installed by a licensed technician, however, as the microwave's internal parts can contain electrical charges even when the microwave is unplugged. I hope this helps.

Hello Ben, thank you for writing. The faults are indicating electronic issue. It could be the Control Panel PartSelect Number PS11722617. The electronic Control is PartSelect Number PS12348595. Good luck with the repair.

Hello Jon, Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, it does sound like you would have to replace one or both of the switches. Hope this helps!

Hi Ruff, Thank you for the question. I would suggest replacing the switch. It is most likely the issue and if this did not fix the problem, you may need to replace the control board. Hope this helps!

Hi Steven, Thank you for the question.The only thing I can suggest is replacing the fuse again. The fuse installed may have been defective. Hope this helps!

Hello Gary, thank you for your inquiry. Your microwave may be facing this issue because of the thermal fuse, part number PS11747999. We hope this solves your problem!

Hi Gary, thank you for contacting us. The issue is due to a faulty control board, part number PS12348595. We hope this helps!