Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Rickey G - January 11, 2024
Verified Purchase
Part worked as described
Part worked and easy to install.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Dellas S - August 24, 2018
Verified Purchase
part was good and works great.
terminal block was good but I had to make an adjustment to the mounting.
★★★★★
★★★★★
M Liane S - June 14, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy to follow instructions, part worked great
The part arrived quickly and I was able to install it easily with the instructions provided.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Mary K - April 26, 2018
Verified Purchase
Terminal block
Very good it worked great
★★★★★
★★★★★
Maria R - March 27, 2018
Verified Purchase
That was very easy to fix, Thanks a lot!!!!!
Yes the part came fast and my stove is back In business, Thanks again!!!!!!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 14 reviews.
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Terminal block wire had burned out
Unplugged the range. Opened the range top, unscrewed the old block and cut the wires back. New mount did not match the range top. Removed the old mount from the old terminal block and removed the new mount from the new terminal block and inserted the new block in the old mount. Spliced the wires with the provided wire nuts, protected
... Read more the splice with the provided heat shrink tubing and installed the burner in the new terminal block. Reinstalled the power cord and tested the burner.
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Mary from FOUNTAIN, CO
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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My heating element will not work
I turned the power off to the stove (very important). then I unplugged the heating element from the terminal. I then unscrewed the terminal from the range top and pulled the terminal through to expose enough wire to do the job. I then proceeded to cut one wire from the old terminal and twist the new wire onto the wire that goes to the swi
... Read moretch. Then I capped it off with the electric cap that came with the new terminal. then I covered the exposed wires with the sleeve that came with new terminal. Then I did the same exact thing for the second wire. After that was all done I put everything back together and turned the power back on.
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Joseph from Guilford, NY
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
0 of 1 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Largest element stopped working months ago-
A very easy fix-Unplug stove, remove back plate, remove non-working element and drip pan, unscrew terminal plug and push it through to back of unit to have room to work, cut wires to old terminal plug approx 4" from plug, inspect remaining wires for damage and if all is OK, strip old wires and wires of new plug approx 1/2", twist together
... Read more and cap with wire nuts, cover with shrink wrap and warm with heat gun, push newly replaced terminal plug back into stove top, screw to terminal plug holder, replace back plate, plug in and replace drip pan and NEW element. Worked like a charm!
Range element working intermittently then failing completely
Remove the element and pan. Unscrew the bracket holding the old terminal. The terminal has adequate wire to pull out. Found area where insulation wasn't brittle. Cut old wires and stripped them to expose 1/2 inch of wire. Attached wires from new terminal with wire nuts. Placed heat-shrink tubing over each assembly and shrank it with a
... Read more heat gun. Retained the bracket from the old terminal, since it looked like it would hold the terminal assembly a bit more firmly than the new bracket. Reassembled in reverse order. Presto -- once again disappointing my wife in her desire for new appliances!
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David from Richmond, VT
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
0 of 1 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The heating coil on the stove blew, or wouldn't work.
I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,
Lynn from Dallas, TX
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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stove burner wouldn't heat up sometimes. Terminal was fried
The terminal bloctk silver attachment did not fit our stove. We had to use the old one and take off a little of the nipple that snapped it into place .used a bench grinder for that.The rest was easy. Used a heat gun paint stripper to shrink the shrink wrap,Saved a big repair bill.
I had 2 of the terminals where the burner coil plugs into completely fry
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down t
... Read moreo where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.
Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.
To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).
After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.
I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.
Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.
Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.
Job done:-)
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PATRICK from WASHINGTON, DC
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
8 of 10 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Large front burner came on sometimes. Oven bake element got red in one spot and burned out.
Really simple. Shut off circuit breaker. Removed 4 counter top screws and slid out the built in stove. Removed 2 screws holding element in oven and removed back cover. Pulled leads off element in back since I couldn't remove from the front then removed element from oven front. Replaced the element and reversed the procedures. For the
... Read more top burner, I cut the leads about 2 inches from terminal block and removed the screw holding the block. Afer stripping the wires, I used the wire nut supplied and reconnected the terminal block. Replaced the terminal block screw, slid stove back in and reversed removal procedure. Turned power on and everthing worked. One problem occured with the terminal block; the connecting hole for the screw was 90 degrees off. I had to bend it to a 180 degree configuration for the screw to be installed.
Heating element required continuous adjustments to work.
I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder join
... Read moret. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.
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Helen
November 4, 2017
The burners on my range heat unevenly.One will only be at high no matter how I move the dial, others have lately started to be very slow to come up to temperature. It seems like I may need to replace the terminal blocks? Does that seem accurate? Also do I need to change the surface elements at the same time whenever I switch terminal blocks? (they are also very old). Final question: My Hotpoint range doesn't appear to be able to swing upwards to access the space underneath is there some other process to access rather than digging around blind through the top holes in the range when the drip pans are removed? Do I need to get in from the back of the unit? Thank you!
For model number RB735G*J1WH
Hi Helen, Thank you for the questuion. I suggest testing the burner switches for resistance. The switches control the temperature of the elements. Sadly, we do not have any information on the model number you provided. Could you please verify the number you provided us with? If it is correct, I recommend contacting the manufacturer. Hope this helps!
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