
Blower Wheel with Clamp Y303836
Rated by 158 customers
Easy
30 - 60 mins
Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.
Easy
30 - 60 mins
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Replacing your Maytag Dryer Blower Wheel with Clamp

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For the felt seal on the front panel, I used a flathead screwdriver to remove the old seal and replace the new seal. The most tricky thing was making sure the seal was laying right along the drum when putting the front panel back on. Once back together, the skidding sound disappeared.
Replacing the blower wheel is pretty easy once I got past the difficult screws holding the cover down. I used snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring then put the new blower wheel on and put it all back together. I found that the tip diameter of the snap ring pliers needed to be less than 0.05'' to fit into the snap ring holes of both the snap rings for the roller wheels and the blower wheel.
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Spencer from COLUMBIA, SC
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
... Read more r />I entered the model number into this website and found a motor that would work and also decided to go with a belt and a fan. There was an installation video provided when I added the motor to my cart. The dryer was older than mine, but obviously identical on the interior. The only difference was that older dryer didn't have a little deflector shield that I have and I still can't remember where that goes. My dryer appears to be working just fine without it though.
Like the video stated:
Remove two screws at the bottom of the front panel to remove the panel while disconnecting the door switch wires. Since I had an old switch, I took the three wires and plugged them into that so I would remember where each one went .
I believe after that was the fan housing with a few bolts, then the drum. I reached through the small back panel to loosen the belt by moving the tensioner back, then removing the drum. The fan was secured by a snap ring and a spring loaded hose clamp that required a small set of pliers.
There were two bolts that held the motor in; once removed, the motor slid out with the bracket. The tough part was using the screwdriver to get the clamps off that hold the motor to the bracket, but the video helped with that.
The new motor did not come with instructions on how to wire it, so I had to go to this site and find somebody who had asked the question. The video did not do all that great a job in showing me where the wires go and since the motor was different than my REAL MAYTAG motor, I had no idea where the wires went, but I found someone who asked the question and he got the answer, so I was able to figure it out.
It had been over a month since I had taken the dryer apart so I went back to that video which, except for the wiring and that tiny little deflector plate, provided excellent detail of how to install everything. I had trouble deciding where I wanted the wires to make sure the drum didn't rub on them, so after it was all back together, I watched the drum rotate with the dryer running from that little panel in the back.
One thing that saved me was every time I took something off, I kept the bolts with that item. It only became a problem when my friend came over and saw the dryer in pieces. He just had to give me his own lecture about fixing dryers and when he talks he has touch everything, so all my bolts are going flying! I was like, "What are you doing? Are you gonna put this back together for me after you lose all my bolts?"
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David from SILVERDALE, WA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
... Read more r />When working on this dryer, be aware that the heater wires are always "hot", even when the dryer is not running. You are only likely to touch one at a time so the worst you will feel is 120 volts. The shock probably won't hurt you but you may cut yourself jerking your arm out of the dryer. Best to unplug the dryer or open the circuit breaker before sticking your arm in there!
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Russell from ELK GROVE, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
The biggest hurdle for me was that the motor came with a new switch that required a different wiring configuration. No wiring diagram was included. Several others had posted questions about wiring in the ... Read more Q&A and unfortunately PartSelect kept copy/pasting the same confusing and incomplete answer over and over:
"The Yellow goes to T6, Red to T5 Black to T2, blue to T1 and the white you will remove the blue jumper lead between the switch terminal 4 and 1/4" protector tab, connect the grey harness lead to the 1/4" protector tab."
Reading that doesn't tell me what to do with the white wire, doesn't address that my blue and white wires were crimped into the same connector from the factory, doesn't address that I had 2 black wires crimped into the same connector from the factory, and doesn't address a factory ground wire that connected the frame of the OEM motor to the bracket that the motor sits in.
With all the other excellent info supplied by PartSelect, this was surprising and frustrating. The sales dept ignored an emailed question from me, and the Q&A section didn't allow me to post a question.
Searching the internet, I found a wiring diagram on aceappliancesd dot com that addressed my dryer's OEM wiring configuration. Here's what I ended up with:
TI - Blue and white, crimped together into a single connector
T2 - Black & black, crimped together into a single connector (the wiring diagram I found said this should be black & brown, but they both look black to me)
T5 - Red
T6 - Yellow
1/4" Thermal protector tab - Grey (from the harness)
The new motor switch had a grounding tab with nothing connected to it. I removed the screw holding that tab into the switch and connected the (also grey) OEM short ground wire from the motor frame to the mounting bracket.
I had to cut 2 of the pieces of tape holding the OEM wiring harness together in order to get enough slack for all the connections to reach. If you do this too, make sure all the wires are still clear of the moving parts and the hot bits. You may need to retape the wires together at a different location to keep things tidy.
I also laid the belt over the drum and put 2 pieces of tape over it to hold it in place while I got the drum positioned, then I reached through the back access panel to loop the belt around the motor pulley and idler. Once that's done, just reach over the top of the drum and peel the tape off. I found that much easier than trying to loop the belt by reaching through and past the drum.
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Peter from REDONDO BEACH, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Fred from COLUMBIA FLS, MT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Chris from KALAMAZOO, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Rodney from FAYETTEVILLE, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Rod from PARKERSBURG, WV
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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David from EASTPOINTE, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
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David from BRANCH, MI
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Manufacturer Part Number: Y303836

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