Adaptive Defrost Board 61005988 | Official Whirlpool Part | Fast Shipping | PartSelect
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Adaptive Defrost Board – Part Number: 61005988
Adaptive Defrost Board – Part Number: 61005988 Adaptive Defrost Board – Part Number: 61005988 Adaptive Defrost Board – Part Number: 61005988 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/51051.gif

Adaptive Defrost Board

4 Reviews
Your Price

PartSelect Number PS2061226

Manufacturer Part Number 61005988

Manufactured by Whirlpool

This part allows the refrigerator to go into defrost mode only when required.

This part works with the following brands: Jenn-Air, Maytag, Magic Chef

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator

This part fixes the following symptoms: Fridge too warm | Freezer section too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer too cold

Videos For installing this part.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.
Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 100 reviews
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james from livermore, CA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
61005988
Fridge Side Warm Freezer Fine
Removed the Hex head small screw at the middle back of the Back wall of the fridge above the top shelf. Removed the 2 small Hex Head screws that go into the of the Plastic cover upwards into the top roof of the fridge.
I ended up with an extra screw so I dont know what I did...
The hard part is pushing up on the two tabs, one on each side in the extreme back on the bottom of that white plastic cover. You have to pull the coverwhile releasing the tab (locks) by pushing UP. The Right side was easier, I got that side to release and drop down. But the left side took some pressure on the tab with a fat screwdriver.
Then you have to kinda of Bend the cover to get it to slide out...

Then take out the 2 phillips screws above the light bulbs. the left side one is tricky, need long skinny driver.

Drop assembly down and on the back right is the ADP board. Mine was a bare board but the replacements are enclosed in white plastic that fit in place just fine.

Pry connector off of the board carefully and drop new plastic circuit board case in and replace.

Put a thermometer in a glass of water. unplug fridge for 10 minutes and then plug it in. Give it a few hours..
Everything seems fine.
A steady 39 degrees with the Fridge control at a few ticks right of middle.
I have no idea what it was before my troubles...
But 36 - 41 seems to be what you need.
176 of 185 people found this instruction helpful.
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Eva from Macomb, IL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
EDR7D1, WP61006199, 61005988, 61005726, WP61005724, 61003647, WP61003174
The food side of my Maytag wide by side refrigerator was 80 degrees.
Okay all you ladies out there, listen up. Yep, I am a girl and had never worked on a refrigerator before. I googled the model of frig and the problem. Finding that one of two things were probably wrong, I went to parts select and ordered both parts. Two days later they arrived. I replaced the coil and thermostat and waited one day -- the food side still did not cool down. I replaced the frost board and immediately the unit started to cool. I had called a repairman on Saturday and was told that they couldn't make an appointment until the following Friday because of a tremendous work load. I had the refrigerator running by Thursday, the day before anyone could even take a look at my refrigerator. Even though I spent $30 on a part I didn't need, I saved a bundle, the house call would of been more than $30.
136 of 151 people found this instruction helpful.
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Jimmy from Stratford, TX
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
Parts Used:
WP67005457, WP61006199, 61005988, WP61005651, WP854334
The coils would freeze up and it wouldn't cool.
I removed the screws on the covers and remove them, then taken the screws from the timer, the temperature control just set in there, then pulled out a lttle ways and disconnected the wires and then removed. Installed the new ones. I taken the back panel off and removed the clip and pulled the defrost heater out a ways and removed the wires and removed the defrost heater. Installed the new defrost heater and clip and the covers.
83 of 635 people found this instruction helpful.
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Michele from Port St. Lucie, FL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
61005988
Refrigerator compartment not cooling; Freezer compartment icing up on back wall
Well, off course, I started with the refrigerator UNPLUGGED :)
The hardest part of this repair was removing the plastic cover in the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment to get to the board. The screws all were easy to find (2 on either side of the temperature slide control; 2 on either side of the bulbs; and two in the underside of the compartment that houses the board in the far back right corner) and came out easily, however the 2 little plastic "tab locks" at the rear of the cover made things a little difficult. The right combination of pressure on the tabs and outward pulling of the cover took me quite a few tries to get right; but once the cover was off the rest of the repair was simple! The replacement part is a little different from the original in that it is now encased in a plastic housing, whereas the original was just a bare board. But it fit in perfectly - I snapped off the old wiring assembly and snapped in the new one, and we were off to the races. The cover proved to go back on a little easier than it had come off and in about 3 hours I heard the first piece of ice drop and the refrigerator compartment was down to 30 with the temperature setting set in the middle at 5. (I've sinced lowered it a little to bring the temp to about 36) - This was a really easy repair that saved me about $200; a break I really needed. And if you don't believe that it's easy and that you can do it yourself, this should really motivate you.................................. I AM A GIRL!!!! :) lol.
Good luck!!!
45 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
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Bryan from Maple Valley, WA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
WP61006199, 61005988, 61004441, WP67005457
Freezer icing up and refer not cooling
Removed all parts and replaced defrost heater/thermostat and new clip then replaces Defrost board (new ones just snap in) and replaced all parts back and seems to be back to normal.
Thank you Parts Select
38 of 45 people found this instruction helpful.
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Herman from Hughesville, PA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
61005988, WPA3073101
There was a chattering Noise from Adeptive Defrost Assy
I first dropped the Cover Assy, which covers lites and controls, this was done by pulling it forward and it drops down, did not remove top shelf so It was a bit difficult to tilt cover assy. for removal. There is a srew located close to filter assy. in back use nut driver 1/4"located to remove this screw, there are then 2 screws located to the rear and side of light holders, both phillips head, the one on the left side is a bit tricky to remove but I use a thin bladed scredriver, Next there are 2 screws located on both ends od the slides that control temp, both again removed witn1/4 " nut driver, the whole upper assy drops down and forward the Adeptive Defrost assy is located in the back right corner of this assy, unplug the wires and unit snaps out, I foud it easier to pop off top cover of new unit so I could see connector assy when I reattached the wires, then replaced the top assy and snapped new unit it place, Reassymbly was reverse of removal, before placing cover assy back in place I replaced both lamps as 1 was out .
27 of 33 people found this instruction helpful.
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Michele from Austin, TX
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
61005988
freezer would not defrost, clicking noise top right inside
remove large cover, look to the back and ease down over prongs and slide toward you and out. Remove water filter.
Remove light bulbs, so you don't see spots:) Remove to bolt heads at back and gold screw holding gold box on left (it will not fall down) remove temperature plate (two bolt head above), and two more large head screws, right behind light bulbs, box large plastic cover should tilt down. Back in the tray of the cover, will be the white box with the defrost control, lift out and unplug. Plug in the same way. Re assemble putting in the the two back screws first, and then the gold box screw, two behind the lights. Place the temp control plate and screw that in with the other two bolt heads. Cross your fingers :)

I didn't unplug the fridge, but reccommend you do.
22 of 619 people found this instruction helpful.
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Conrad from Northville, MI
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Parts Used:
61005988
Refrigerator would not defrost and was abnormally warm inside both compartments
The adaptive defrost assembly is located in the refrig compartment. This requires removing the panel which covers the temp controls and interior lighting. In the back right hand corner is the adaptive defrost circuit board. It has a six wire connector and is retained by two screws.

Remove the two screws and grip the connector making sure to disengage the locking tab with holds the connector in place.

Replace with the new assembly by plugging in the connector, replacing the two screws and then reinstalling the compartment cover.

Set the temperature lower than you normally would temporarily to make sure that the system is working properly (takes 30 - 45 minutes).

Once the unit begins to cool again, you can gradually readjust the temperature to it normal range in both the freezer and refrig compartments.

I used a flashlight and a mirror to check the coil in the freezer compartment for a couple of days to make sure that the defrost function was working correctly by looking up into the louvers and observing if there was any ice accumulation.

Easy repair and Partselect provided great on-line information. Also, I probably saved a bundle.
21 of 21 people found this instruction helpful.
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ROY from TORRANCE, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Parts Used:
EDR7D1, 61005988
Freezer Iced Up/Refrigerator Warm
Defrost circuit was inside the control assembly inside the refrigerator so I snapped the two release clamps located to the rear of the assembly (lights and controls). Slid the whole assembly cover off and removed the lightbulbs and two screws right above them. In from of that is the temp switches and directional slider, removed the two screws holding that. With the four screws out, removed whole assembly and laid it dowm on the first shelf, defrost circuit is at the back right, easy change out but take note which way the 4 prong plug fits into the circuit board. Refrigerator was back to normal in about 6 hours.
20 of 25 people found this instruction helpful.
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John from Snellville, GA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Parts Used:
WP61006199, 61005988
Fridge started warming up, then freezer portion tried to die
Removed control section and found ice build up in transfer tunnel from the freezer section to the fridge section. freezer fan was running, compressor running - no air coming into fridge section. Possible and cheapest problem - no defrost cycle taken place. Replaced defrost heater/t-stat in freezer and defrost controller in fridge. Seams to work (for now).
20 of 617 people found this instruction helpful.
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Sort by:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".