Part Location Diagram of 12002213 Whirlpool Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
See part 35 in the diagram
Replacing your Maytag Washer Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
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Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit 12002213

 Fits your 6747A71!
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16 Reviews

Rated by 25 customers 

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1- 2 hours 

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$ 69.83
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PartSelect Number PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number 12002213
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit Specifications

This transmission pulley and bearing kit, also known as thrust bearing kit or washer pulley and bearing kit, includes the pulley, washer, thrust bearing, two upper race washers, and one lower race washer. These genuine Whirlpool parts are plastic and are not sold individually. The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin, will not drain, or has no agitation. The washer will need to be tilted on its back or side to access the bottom. The tools needed to complete this repair are a small flat blade screw driver and a pair of slip joint pliers.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Maytag Washer Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit

Replacing your Maytag Washer Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Spins slowly | Will not agitate | Will not drain | Burning smell
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Norge, Admiral, Magic Chef.
Part# 12002213 replaces these:
AP4009132, 1042142, 12002213, 12001797, 12002213, 12002213VP, 12500036, 21001218, 21001298, 21001733, 21001734, 22004258, 22004259, 35-2016, 35-2078, 35-2119, 35-2318, 35-2439, 35-2441, 35-2683 , 35-3455, 35-3457, 35-3829, LA-2007 Show less
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Customer Reviews
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16 Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.8 / 5.0, 25 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
would no longer spin with a load of clothes, but would still drain the water.
Replaced the transmission pulley and bearing. Also I put on a new drive belt. I did the repairs exactly the way Steve does in the repair videos.
Replace the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit - 5:44
Replaced the Drive Belt 52 inches - 1:10
Also I replaced the drain pump even though it still worked, because the machine is 19 years old.
Replace the Drain Pump video - 6:22 min.
After doing the repairs, the Maytag Atlantis washer now works fine.
Other Parts Used:
Washer Drain Pump Drive Belt - 52 inches long Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Scott from CINCINNATI, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Wouldn't spin after rince
Followed the great instructions on your video
  • joe from LAWRENCEVILLE, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Washer Machine would shake drastically during spin cycle (shaking more as water emptied outs because of the removal of the water weight during the spin cycle)
Part Select data showed that over 60% of the time, this issue of the washer shaking was due to broken support springs for the tub and over 30% of the time, it was a worn/broken snubber ring. So, I initially purchased the six springs and snubber ($30 total) from this site and completed both of those repairs. I leveled the washer securely and tested it again. However, the washer still had the issue of shaking during the spin cycle with no improvement. So, I then researched again for this issue and parts recommended were a lower bearing kit or transmission. Since the transmission replacement was $429, that wasn't worth trying. So, for the $52 lower bearing kit, I ordered it from along with a new belt ($22) (even though the existing belt didn't show any signs of significant wear, but I changed it anyway). The new bearing kit was installed and the washer is now operating like new. I used the current videos on the website for replacing the parts that I ordered, and they were perfect step by step instructions. It made the repair very simple for anyone with any sense of do-it yourself ability and with minimum, ordinary tools. So, for approximately $110 for parts and doing the repair myself, the washer is like new again. Thank you!!!!
Other Parts Used:
Retaining Ring Drive Belt - 52 inches long Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Scott from PORTAGE, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Noisy on spin cycle
Followed the excellent utube instructions you provide. Piece of cake when I followed the video. The rear springs became much more difficult because my model does not have rear access panel. They were the only stuggle. Thank you for doing the repair videos
Other Parts Used:
Snubber Ring Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • William B from STURGIS, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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it was spinning slowly or not at all
I first changed the belt which helped but it still sounded like it was going to take off through the roof.....I did the pulley and bearing kit in hopes that it would do some good....it went really smoothly with no issues however it did not solve the problem....so it is working and I am going to just ride it out until it quits....thanks
  • Louis from FREMONT, NE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Washer was making a squeak during spin cycle & then just stopped spinning
I watched the video of the repair on this website and followed it. Was really easy & THANK GOD because this was my first repair. This has been a great machine and it looks like it will continue to be for a little while longer! Thanks for the video help and friendly navigation of your site!
  • Eleanor from PALATKA, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Unit quit spinning
Actually I got on YouTube and looked up the problem and watch the short video of it and went from there and it showed me how to take everything apart what the problems were and as I did take it apart and found out it was exactly what they said I simply reversed it just ordered the parts and put them in and took my time to make sure that everything was to specs as I've measured the clearance of the break and said all the hardware back in place it was quite simple yet it was just time consuming took me about two and a half hours but it runs quiet spins great just like a brand new one I couldn't be more pleased with it and I saved quite a bit of money doing it myself
Other Parts Used:
Washer Brake Stator Snubber Ring Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Leo Joseph from BENSON, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Original issue water in tub, replace belt, all fine but noisey like dry bearings.
After new belt, load dry bearing sound in spin cycle and brake squeal. Videos were very helpful, but limited. Thinking with new belt pulling pressure, it had to be bearings. Top bearing I was worried of possible water seal being disturbed ? 1 * Not so, the big top bearing sits alone under brake housing, but spent most time prying off with a wheel puller. Need like 10inch reach for puller. Has a plastic housing around it, that you have to pry on, but no damage seemed evident when done. This was the worse part ! 2 * Pulled springs, (with vise grips) water level hose,(fingers) and pump hose,(pliers and twist to free) removed motor (two 1/2 inch bolts and wires), then v belt. Tub/transmission all pulled out easy with front cover removed already. 3* Inverted, pop plastic cover, pry spring clip with screwdriver,(a little stubborn) and pulley pulls out easy. Now look good at the pulley inner part, it has to be adjusted when done, and instructions are not that clear. So here I will try to give a better clue. The instruction sheet shows the outer ring part with small inner space to tabs, and a bigger space to tabs. The larger 2/3 tab swing space is the control setting area.. Inner part swings left and right around to the tabs, A small 1/3 area, and bigger 2/3 area. Looking at the large side, the outer ring has two exterior raised notch of plastic. If you twist the pulley CW looking down, until it hits the first left tab, this would be the start point for adjusting. Instructions state, the first outer notch is the "MIN" point, and the next notch (about an inch away) is the "MAX" point. When reassembling and WITH the washer &clip in the groove (use the old one and just push one side into the goove to temporary hold center shaft in place) Key is the pulley has to be turned CW, and needs the clip to hold shaft, as pressure is put on the lower brake spring. OK, clip holding, CW turn pulley until the left tab stop is hit, now slowly turn pulley CCW and watch when the shaft starts turning. Plastic inner part has a 3-d arrow formed in it close to the first exterior notch. Setting is to turn the CCW direction with the arrow moving in between the MIN /Max outer notch, before the shaft start to turn. Ideally in the middle of the two exterior notches. Instructions state this, but never said the clip had to be in place ! What happens is CW releases the brake spring for the brake on, CCW applies preasure to unlock the brake, and that should be about the middle of the notches on outer side of ring, when the shaft starts to turn. Two washers are with pulley/bearing kit, one is used depending oh where the middle arrow starts to turn shaft. Apply the grease as instructed. 4 * Brake use of three 10/24 bolts worked well, described by other reviews. Spring is 200 lb. rating, so an adult can push down for most of the movement. The screw turned out easy, and reassembly by pushing down some pressure and screwing in faster saves time. It is the distance of about 1.5x oem screw size that the spring preasure gets hard, so then just keep turning the screws 2-4 turns each, to press back into place. First brake cover plate was totally glazed at brake pad area. I replaced it, but could have possible just sanded it some. Next lower brake pad disc, showed lots of brake pad, Replaced it to since I bought the parts, but maybe just sanding a little would have been good too. 5 * If you pull the two brake parts out, underneath is the upper bearing that was the hard thing to pull off. Start Access by removing the three screws under the brake, and then the outer metal ring support screws.( set of three/two screws. 9/16 inch). Pull cover off and here is the big top bearing with the plastic support housing under it, with no room to move it away. A couple drops of oil in the inner ring, and wheel puller use, the bearing started to slide off easy abut half way off. 6 * All this done and my snubber ring was showing wear, so good idea I bought the new snubber ring and all six tub springs. 7 * Tub springs are a little tough, vise grips, wiggle yourself into position, and do the rear ones first. My washer had all the springs inserted CCW position, spring inserted into base on left side hole that is oval. A little grease on spring bottom loop as per video. 8 * Long story, easy two hours plus, but took my time, brake squeal is gone, tub seems a little less wobble in spin cycle, but still sounds like a dry bearing ! Now starting to think it is the motor bearings just transmitting the sound up the tub like a megaphone ? OEM bearings did not seem worn enough to be an issue. Top bearing is a standard ball bearing, and lower bearing is a thrust roller bearing. Parts so far cost almost half the price of a new washer ! Best of luck, tried to clear up some "what issues" !
Other Parts Used:
Washer Brake Stator Washer Brake Rotor Spin Bearing Snubber Ring Suspension Spring Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • john from BEACHWOOD, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Clothes were too damp after spin cycle finished.
Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.
  • Brian from South Holland, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
31 of 35 people found this instruction helpful.
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would not drain/slow spin
i did the repair by the instructions that you had on the web site,and i thank you for all the help you gave me.
Other Parts Used:
Drive Belt - 52 inches long Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit
  • Carlos from Georgetown, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
11 of 16 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

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Sherrie
March 7, 2018
I ordered the agitator; however, my Maytag washer still makes a horrible noise when washing. No noise when spinning.
For model number MAV6451AWW
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Hi Sherrie, Thank you for your question. You might want to check out your transmission pulley and your lower bearing. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Karl
November 14, 2019
I have a top load Maytag washer and it gets real loud while washing. I replaced the drain pump, belt and motor pulley cause originally it was loud during spin not anymore. Just when it washes it is loud. I took the belt off then put it back on wash cycle and it wasn't making loud noise so that let me know it's the thrust bearing or main valve bearing? What's your thoughts?
For model number AAV7000AWW
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Hello Karl, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Lower Bearing Assembly PartSelect Number PS2003141 and the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit PartSelect Number PS2003651 for wear or damage. Hope this helps!

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Patsy
January 25, 2024
All at once after water filled and agitation began noise began, loud noise and proceeded through entire cycle to off. Any clue what could cause this. I would shut control off and on till turning to final spin out and then shut control off.
For model number HAV2357AWW
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Hello Patsy, thank you for your inquiry. We have concluded that the issue is with the drive pulley, part number PS2003651. You may need to check it to solve the problem. Glad to be of assistance!

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Larry
December 9, 2017
I replaced the brake rotor, snubber ring and the drive pulley and lower cam assembly, however, when i install the lower cam thrush washer, the shaft does not move out far enough to clear the thin thrust washer, much less the retained clip, even after using my screwdriver to pull the shaft out as far as possible. To verify different dimensions between the new and old parts, reinserted the old pulley and cam parts, and the problem still exists. (new brake rotor was left in place) any ideas on the cause?
For model number MAV7257AWW
PartSelect logo
Hello Larry. Thank you for your inquiry. I would double check to make sure everything is lined up correctly. Sometimes also the brake will stick, so you may want to check that to make sure it is not seized. We have a helpful repair video and installation stories available for this part. Good luck with your repair.

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Rob
December 24, 2017
I replaced the thrust bearing kit and the bowl still don't spin is the transmission bad
For model number MAV2755AWW
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Hello Rob, Thank you for your inquiry. This is one of the two top parts that have been reported to cause this issue, I would also check your drive belt as well. Hope this helps!

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Scott
December 31, 2017
Washer model mav755eww Maytag shakes drastically during the spin cycle even with washer tub empty (no water or clothes). Per the recommended fixes, i changed the suspension springs, the snubber ring, and leveled the washer but still shakes during spin cycle. I see that the transmission pulley/bearing kit is a possible cause but also the transmission/seal could also be a cause for shaking. The washer spins out fine, so it is more likely to be a bad/worn transmission pulley/bearing or the transmission. If it's the transmission, that is a $429 part which wouldn't make it feasible to fix on a 14 year old washer (could buy a new washer). The transmission pulley/bearing kit is only $53. What's the likelihood of doing the transmission pulley/bearing kit repair for $53 fixing the shaking issue?
For model number MAV7557EWW
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Hello Scott, Thank you for your inquiry. We do show this part as being a more likelihood fix than the transmission. Hope this helps!

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Steven
April 29, 2019
Washer is having trouble building spin speed. Does this unit use a coupling or belt drive system. I have not taken it apart yet. Just trying to get price range of repair or replace unit. It still worked other than that.
For model number MAV208DAWW
PartSelect logo
Hello Steven, Thank you for the question. This model uses a Belt Drive System. The Belt is PartSelect Number PS11738882. Hope this helps!

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Jim
July 31, 2018
My washer does not drain all the way,soap still in tub.
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Hello, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the appliance. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Ron
December 17, 2018
Washer does not drain completely. Original problem - the washer was leaking so i replaced the hose from the tub to the pump. No more leak. Next i replaced the drain pump and the belt - the washer still does not drain completely. Any ideas?
For model number MAV6000AWW
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Hello Ron, thank you for your question. We would recommend checking the Belt Part Number: WP22003483 and the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit Part Number: 12002213. If the belt is stretched or the pulley is worn, the unit will have issues draining. I hope this helps.

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Jack
August 30, 2017
Installed this part and still making noise and only one speed. What next?
For model number PAV3240AWW
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Hi Jack, Thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could be causing excessive noise in your appliance. You may also want to look at your drain pump, Rotor (see if this part is stripped on the inside), motor, suspension springs, and lower bearing assembly. You will want to check all of these parts to see if there is any wear and tear. Good luck with your repair.

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This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS2003651
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002213
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