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1804752-1-S-Whirlpool-306508-Front Glide Kit
1804752-1-S-Whirlpool-306508-Front Glide Kit 1804752-2-S-Whirlpool-306508-Front Glide Kit 1804752-3-S-Whirlpool-306508-Front Glide Kit https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/59071.gif

Front Glide Kit

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$9.89
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PartSelect Number PS1804752
Manufacturer Part Number 306508
Manufactured by Whirlpool

The front glide is located at the front of the dryer and the drum rides along it. If you hear a metal-on-metal noise when your dryer is running, your front glide may be worn out and may require replacing. This front glide kit comes with a blue plastic glide, a brown cork pad, and two metallic rivets. Two kits are required per appliance. While you have the front bulk head removed for this repair, you may want to inspect the felt that lines it. If the felt is damaged, it is recommended that you replace it at the same time. You will need a rivet tool for this kit, as well as a stubby Phillips screwdriver, a 5/16 nut driver, and a drill with a 1/8-inch bit.

This part works with the following brands: Maytag, International, Jenn-Air, Crosley.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Noisy.
  • Marks left on clothes.
  • Will not tumble.
  • Will Not Start.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

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Most Helpful

Question:

My tumbler is sticking which is causing the dryer to stop. I think my front tumbler bearings are worn down based on the symptoms and sounds Im experiencing but Im not sure. Does this sound about right? If that is the case do I need this part to fix it? Is this a normal thing for driers to do or is there something wrong with mine? Thanks in advanced!

Trey
Answer:

Hi Trey, it sounds like you need to replace your front tumbler bearings 306508. Do not panic as this is normal wear and tear for your dryer to experience. Also, the heavier loads you put in your washer, the more wear the tumbler bearings will have. I hope this helps.

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer could be almost empty but it sounds like theres a huge load inside with occasional thumping during drying cycle. Where should I check first?

Penny
Answer:

Hello Penny, based on your symptoms the most common reason this happens is worn rollers, which are found here 12001541. Before ordering this assembly, we suggest checking your rollers to see if they have excessive visible wear to the point that they look damaged. If that is the case you should replace them. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

2 people found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

Hi, i'm having problems with my dryer. It seems to be snagging the clothes. They come out of the dryer with small snags. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jason for model number Maytag
Answer:

Hi Jason, Thank you for your inquiry. There are three parts that may fix the issue. The front and rear seal, the dryer drum glides and the drum support rollers. Front and Rear Seal A worn, torn, or missing front or rear seal could be the reason your clothes are coming out of the dryer torn. The seal is designed to keep clothes from getting between the drum and the front or rear wall of the dryer. If this seal becomes worn or torn, your clothing may become lodged between the two parts. Because the dryer drum keeps turning, the clothes get ripped. Before you can examine and replace a dryer drum's seals, you have to remove the drum. Dryer Drum Glides Torn clothing could mean that the glides in your dryer have become defective. The glides support the drum towards the front of the dryer. They can wear over time, causing the drum to slump or sag toward the front of the dryer. When this happens, a pinch point is created at the top of the drum. It is this pinch point that can tear clothing. If this happens in your dryer, you will have to open it up and replace the entire set of glides. Drum Support Rollers Another possibility for torn clothing could be defective drum support rollers. The rollers support the drum in the back of the dryer. These too can wear over time, causing the drum to slump or sag in the back. Again, a pinch point is created, causing clothing to tear. If it is the drum support rollers in your dryer that have become defective, you will have to replace the entire set of rollers. You will have to open up your dryer's cabinet and remove the drum before you can replace your drum support rollers. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

When my dryer is on and running the clothes seem to be catching on something and it is ruining them, theres black marks on them as well. Based on what ive been reading and experiencing it sounds like I need a bearing kit. Thoughts?

Andre`
Answer:

Hi Andre`, you are correct. Based on your symptoms it sounds like you need to order a tumbler bearing kit 306508. Best of luck with this repair.

1 person found this helpful.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 64 reviews What's this?
 

0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Joshua from Newport, RI

Squealing/sqeeking noise when in use

Repair went very smoothly and was just as described. Total repair took 40minutes start to finish and I was amazed on how much lint was in the dryer and needed to be vaccuumed out. I recommend this site and it was very helpful. - Josh

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Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: William from Elizabethtown, PA

Excessive noise from tumbler

Removed Front Panel, Filter/Drum Support and tumbler. Noted metal shavings inside cabinet on my right side. Found right front glide strip completely gone and left side deteriorated. Also spun rear drum rollers and noted noise and slight wobble on right side. Removed snap rings, washers and rollers and examined both shafts. No scoring noted so I cleaned them with mineral spirits. Used excellent website tools to rapidly identify parts needed and placed order. Parts arrived second day (w/ standard shipping option). Installed drum support wheels using new washers from kit (discarded old,thinner ones) and reused snap rings. Moving to front support, drilled out old rivets (4) from front glides with 1/4 inch bit. Inserted cork portion first followed by metal piece (I think it was teflon)and installed the rivets. Two observations here. First there were no instructions and, since my old guides were completely gone, I had to guess at the orientation. There is a pertruding tab on both pieces which I oriented to toward the drum. Once it is in its pretty obvious that the orientation is correct but you might ponder it for a minute or so. Second, one of my rivets didn't flatten out completely (probably operator error). I'm pretty sure there would have been plenty of clearance but I drilled it out and replaced it anyway. Bottton line, having a couple of extra rivets on hand might not be a bad idea. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. The biggest issue will be the drive belt. Since I have replaced mine before (twenty five years old and two kids with cloth diapers -- its had alot of use) I draped the belt over the back portion of the drum before I re-install the tumbler unit. Get a helper or a piece of wood to support the tumbler and then reach over the top to position the belt. Now the tough part -- especially if you have big hands like mine. You need to reach in and fish the belt onto the motor pulley and then the tensioner. It may take two or three trys but you'll get it. Then I loosely installed the front drum support. At this point rotate the drum by hand to position the belt and run your hand around the inside of the tumbler to check the felt seal front and back. Tighten the front drum support, reinstall the front panel and you are done.
Note. I chose to do everything from the front. There is a panel in the rear that will give you access to the motor. If you have the room and and can get easy access to the rear panel, it will make installing the belt easier. I don't so I chose to work everythig from the front. Timewise I suspect it is about even.

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Parts Used:
  • Front Glide Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Katherine from Roanoke, VA

On our maytag dryer, the drum rests on rollers in the back and 2 smooth glides on the front. The glides had worn down completely causing the metal drum to rub against the metal rim of the dryer as it turned. We discovered the problem because metal shavings were causing dark orbital shaped marks on

Took the front and the lint catcher off the dryer to expose the front of the drum and the glides. On our dryer the drum rests on a roller in back and smooth glides in front which are held in place by rivets. these glides had worn down to the metal so that the drum was grinding against the metal ridge as it turned. Drilled out the existing rivets using a 1/8" drill bit. Took out remains of old glides and inserted new. Rivets came with the kit and it was easy to assemble. Put it all back together and now the dryer works beautifully!!

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Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: frank from merritt island, FL

Fan broken and glide worn out

parts came in very fast-2days. repairs were uncomplicated--dryer now runs well.

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Parts Used:
  • Front Glide Kit
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Lawrence from Charlestown, NH

Front glides were worn out. Originally added lubrication but drum tilted because the glides were vcompletely gone.

Removed front door (2 screws).
Removed front panel (the component that held the glides}. that required removal of 5 screws.
Cleaned it and removed old rivets and ends of glides.
Installed new glides and pop riveted them in.
Re-assembled panel and door and all is well.

Thanks

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Lillian from Nichols, NY

The drum was hard to turn by hand and the dryer ran with a lot of noise.

The key points to a complex repair:
Unplug the power cord and don't touch the plug conductors.. it's 220 VOLTS!!! Also I use safety glasses, just a thought.
Take the small cover off the back and make a drawing right on the back of the dryer or inside the cover of how the drive belt runs off the drum to the motor and around the idler pulley. When you put it back on don't put it around the back of the metal bracket. It goes between the bracket and the puley. When you get the front off and the drum out clean the lint out of the motor. The rollers go together dry no oil or grease. Don't leave the drive belt on the floor when you put the dryer back together. A wedge on the floor under the front panel will help lift it in place.
Good luck. And don't put your hands in the dryer when it's running.

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Parts Used:
  • Front Glide Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Eben from Clinton, CT

Drum turned wit dificulty

Followed the directions in your video. ( should have viewed it first as it would have saved me time.

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Alan from Huntington Beach, CA

The dryer was making a grinding metal on metal sound when running

I removed the front panel of the dryer and the assembly that holds the tumbler in place to see what was causing the grinding noise. After seeing some worn parts I went on partselect.com and entered the model number of my dryer. I was provided with diagrams that told me which parts needed to be replaced. I watched the repair video for the Front Glide Kit which was VERY helpful. I ordered 2 front glide kits and a drum felt seal on a Sunday afternoon and paid for overnight shipping. I verfied that my parts shipping first thing on Monday and had them by Tuesday morning. I completed the repairs when I got home from work on Tuesday. There was no repair video for the drum seal but the repair descriptions from the other customers were helpful enough to guide be through. The hardest part of the repair was putting the assembly that holds the tumbler back in place. It took me about 15-20 minutes to get it in place and get the felt seal tucked outside of the tumbler. Once I got it all back together (nice to have to video to make sure I got everything back correctly) I plugged it in and turned it on...ah, a nice quiet dryer again! Thanks PartSelect! It's nice to save money AND repair things myself easily and correctly.

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Parts Used:
  • Front Glide Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Brian from Arlington, TX

This old dryer was making a scraping noise

I removed the front panel, drilled out the worn glider plate's rivets and riveted the new plates on. It was easy. However its too late for this worn out dryer. I've replaced, belts, pulleys, wheels, gas valves, ignitor elements, humidistats, lamps, felt rings, and even the whole motor. This baby has just seen too much action and its time for a new dryer.

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Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
Customer: Robert from Pink Hill, NC

Rear drum rollers wore to the point of high pitch noise

Pulled belt off of motor,then laid dryer on back side to take screws holding front panel loose. Once front panel was off, took other front piece loose,then drum out of housing.Removed heating element with removal of two screws. Removed back panel that has roller assembly on and replace roller kit. Reinstall heating element.Took new belt and tape to drum in three different places where the old belt traveled ( just follow the path of the old belt on drum).Reinstall dryer at upright position after assembly is complete on front. Return to back of dryer and reinstall belt.Slowly turn belt to remove tape from drum and belt. .

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0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Tod from Mantua, OH

Age. Age, and a bazillion loads of laundry.

Remove the two bottom screws that hold the front sheet metal on. Pull the bottom of the front out, while it pivots at the top -- it will drop free. Disconnect the two wires at the door closed switch. Put the front panel aside. Remove the four screws that hold the front drum retainer in place. Use a Dremel, or other suitable tool to remove the old rivets from the glides. Remove all of the old guide pieces. Install new, and use rivet tool to pop-rivet new guides in place. Re-assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. The lint screen is a given. ;)

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0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: bob from palm city, FL

After 30 yars the dry was really noisey.

First I'd like to say I ordered the parts one day and got them the next. That kind of service is awesome!

Pulled off the front panel (Removed the 2 screws at bottom then lifted up and out from the bottom. Set it to the side. Then removed the 4 screws holding the front of tub housing in place and pulled the housing to the side. Pulled the tub forward a few inches to expose the drum roller wheels located toward the back of the tub. Didn't pull the drum very far forward because I didn't want the drive belt to come off the pulleys. Removed the retaining clip from the first wheel and then removed the 2 rub washers and the wheel. Repeated the same to the other wheel. Pushed the tub back in place. Reached in around the tub and repositioned the belt to the front of the grove in the drum in which the wheels run. Reassembled the front tub housing, making sure the blower flange fit evenly and well into the felt sleeve. Reinstalled the front panel. Smiled when I turned on the dryer and it was quite. I didn't install the front glide kit though I may in the future since they are fairly warn.

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0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Front Glide Kit
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: James from Cheyenne, WY

Making a loud squeaking noise

I unscrewed 2 screw's from bottom of dryer and lifted off front. Removed 4 5/16 screw's and lifted off front drum. Removed belt and took out drum. Removed front drum roller's and replaced them. Used snap ring pliers. They are a big help.
Replaced drum but not all the way. Placed new belt on drum about 1/2 inch in front of groove. Flat side down, looped it over idle pulley and motor. Put drum in place. Replaced Front Guide's 2. Drilled out old rivet's 1/8" drill. Replaced front drum cover and 4 screw'. Replaced front of dryer and 2 screw's. The video showing how to do job was very helpful, watch it. PartSelect do a great job, I don't think I would have tried this job without their help. Dryer works like new.

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Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: ed from ramona, OK

Lots of squeaks & squeals during cycle

I knew it needed new roller spring washers, so I ordered two, with a set of roller shaft washers & the two drum glide kits. The parts arrived two days later. When I opened the parts the roller spring washers I needed were not included. The parts bags were labeled as Washer,Spring (roller shaft washers), but were really just the fiber Roller Shaft washers that ride next to the roller.
If you look close, the part numbers for the ROLLER SHAFT WASHERS or WASHER,SPRING(ROLLER(Roller Shaft Washers) are the same,
PS2031959.....

There is a metal spring washer ( a bent washer )that goes on the roller shaft first. This pushes the roller out & gives it some horizontal play.
Then a fiber washer goes on either side of the roller.
I have replaced all of these every 4 or 5 years in the past.
One of the existing ones I had was steel & the older original type were copper, which wear very thin then get cut into two separate rings.
This causes a lot of squealing & squeaks.

Since I didn't have two good springs, I had to use the good steel one & the remainder of the best copper one I had. I will have to find some new ones & install them later. There are a few minor squeaks but nothing like what it was.

The glides were shot some time ago & earlier this year I had cut the teflon off of one side since it had worn out & folded over it self.
The only problem with replacing these was that I had to go get a new pop rivet gun, since the last one I bought was hiding that day.

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Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Jon from Saint Leonard, MD

Dryer made off-normal sounds

1. Disconnected dryer from power supply. Removed two front panel screws.
2. Lifted front panel to access the drum and blower.
3. Photographed the wiring and assembly from several angles for reference.
4. Removed four screws and removed the front plenum.
5. Removed the blower plenum and removed a large amount of lint from plenum.
6. Cut the two rivets holding each drum front glide using a Dremel tool.
7. Replaced both drum front glides and riveted them in place.
8. Removed blower cover. I could not use a nut driver on two screws and used a socket set with universal drive.
9. Used pliers to removed the clamp on the blower; used C-ring pliers to removed the front c-ring from the blower motor shaft.
10. Pulled squirrel-cage blower off motor and installed new blower with new clamp and old C-ring.
11. Cleaned all accessible areas of blower and cabinet with brushes and Shop Vac.
12. Replaced dryer bulb.
13. Removed tumbler and tumbler belt.
14. Installed tumbler and belt using the instructions supplied with the new belt.
15. Removed four screws and rear pulley access plate and threaded new belt on pulley and idler.
16. Installed blower cover, plenum and wiring.
17. Installed rear access cover.
18. Inspected and tightened power cord lugs.
19. Replaced dryer vent pipe.
20. Connect dryer to power supply.
21. Tested dryer.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS1804752
Manufacturer Part Number: 306508
Brand Model Number Description
CrosleyCDE4205AYJDryer - Residential
CrosleyCDE4205AYWDryer - Residential
CrosleyCDE4205AZJDryer - Residential
CrosleyCDE4205AZWDryer - Residential
CrosleyCDG4205AWJDryer - Residential
CrosleyCDG4205AWWDryer - Residential
MaytagDE106Dryer - Electric
MaytagDE107Dryer - Electric
MaytagDE110Dryer - Electric
MaytagDE18CADryer - Electric
MaytagDE18CMDryer - Electric
MaytagDE18CSDryer - Electric
MaytagDE18CTDryer - Electric
MaytagDE19CADryer - Electric
MaytagDE19CDDryer - Electric
MaytagDE19CSDryer - Electric
MaytagDE19CTDryer - Electric
MaytagDE210Dryer - Electric
MaytagDE212Dryer - Residential
MaytagDE21CADryer - Electric
MaytagDE21CMDryer - Electric
MaytagDE21CSDryer - Electric
MaytagDE21CTDryer - Electric
MaytagDE22CADryer - Electric
MaytagDE22CSDryer - Electric
MaytagDE22CTDryer - Electric
MaytagDE23CDDryer - Electric
MaytagDE24CADryer - Electric
MaytagDE24CMDryer - Electric
MaytagDE24CSDryer - Electric