Split Ring WH02X10265

ORDER Spanner wrench for GE tub nut. Impossible to remove hub nut on a washer with age without it. Purchase 1 11/16 in spanner wrench, tub seal, hub nut , split nut
and washer under
agitator all at one time or you will struggle with this repair. The few cents you save is not worth it, the video they provide does a good job but theirs washer
is new hope this helps

I noticed a loud noise during the spin cycle, I purchased a bearing, but after taking the washer apart, I realized that the hub was worn out, I replaced the bearing and other parts to put it back in running condition, it was a worthwhile job, and cost saving. I have to thank partselect for the helpful videos.

Replaced the parts with the highest percentage of noise cause from your website. After replacement and reassembly, with the help from your very helpful instructional youtube and my son's assistance, the repairs did not get rid of the problem. Called and was instructed that it could be the mode shifter shaft assembly. Ordered that, as well as a new belt since I would need to disassemble again. Parts came in the next day. Changed out the new parts and the problem was solved. Since I was now familiar with the repair process, this one only took 1 1/2 hours. Very pleased with the level of service and advise received from your group.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

Go to You tube

Disassembled washer removed shaft and drive tube assembly reinstalled new unit and replaced split nut during assembly.

I dissasembled the machine and it took about 30 minutes. Orderd the parts recommended for noisy spinning. Reinstalled the new parts / changed all drum straps. Cleaned the drain drum and spin drum and after complete reassembly the washer is still noisy in agitation and spin cycle. The motor,transmission,counter weight,and drum look ok but there is still a reason why the machine is still noisy. Spent 120.00 dollars on parts so far but the drum and motor,transmission and counterweight are very expensive to replace. I am just going to keep using the machine until the washer fails to work anymore. I'm not going to put any more money in the washer. I will just buy a new one. It's not hard to dissasembled and reassemble the washer. I purchased the parts that was recommended to fix the washer but they were not the ones.The new parts did help like the tub seal but the bottom line is that the washer is still noisy. I watched your videos to work on the washer and there were no special instructions on disassembly and reassembly. Like always there must be more than i know to repair this washer. Thanks