This timer dial with compression ring shows you which part of the cycle your washer is in. It is white in color and can be found mounted on the timer shaft. You may need to replace this part if your old timer dial is cracked or damaged, or if it is not indicating correctly. This part is sold separately from the timer knob, and the timer knob clip.
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Part Videos
Replacing your General Electric Washer Dial with Compression Ring
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will Not Start | Touchpad does not respond
This part works with the following products:
Washer.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric.
Part# WH11X10049 replaces these:
AP3995255, 1264479
Customer Reviews
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★★★★★
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Johnny R - December 29, 2022
Verified Purchase
took about 30 seconds to replace .
got exactly what was ordered ,
★★★★★
★★★★★
Emily G - May 25, 2021
Verified Purchase
Quick delivery, right part.
Part came very fast, before I expected it. Was exactly the right part, took care of the problem with the washer.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Kristin H - March 10, 2021
Verified Purchase
Works great
Works very well - fairly easy to repair. Took a little while to receive item but I did not expedite.
★★★★★
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Tim H - December 23, 2020
Verified Purchase
Washer parts
Both parts; right parts, right fit, right instructions. Well done, thanks.
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M Lewis S - October 30, 2019
Verified Purchase
Simple Solution
The part was easy to find on the website, simple to install and Sweet Wife was impressed with my repair. absolute win, win
★★★★★
★★★★★
Andrew K - June 5, 2019
Verified Purchase
Washer dial
On time, perfect fit, exactly as described.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Jerome S - February 27, 2018
Verified Purchase
Perfect. Easy. Thanks.
Love this resource. Saved a bunch of money for my friend by looking up the problem and ordering the part. Couldn't have been better.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 4.2 / 5.0, 28 reviews.
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Timer gears stripped, need to replace timer.
Took out the 3 screws holding the back on and removed the back. Unplugged the timer, took off the knob and dial. Removed the old timer. Replaced with the new timer, replaced the screws holding the timer in. Put the new dial and timer knob. Replaced the back tightened the screws and started the washer up. Yeah!
Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 sec
... Read moreonds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Agitator Coupling Replacement..
Pry the cap off of the top of the agitator, then one 7/16 bolt to remove the agitator (takes around 15" of extensions to reach the bolt and there is a small o-ring under the bolt that you don't want to miss). The hard part is getting the old coupler out of the agitator. Four lock tabs need to be held back while the coupler is pulled
... Read more out. I warmed it all up with a heat gun, pried the tabs back with screw drivers, and pulled the coupler out with a pair of Channel Locks. Kinda like pulling a very big tooth. After that, all was easy. Line the new coupler up with the locator splines in the agitator, knock it in with a rubber mallet. Slide the agitator back on the shaft, run the bolt back in and tighten (don't forget the o-ring), pop the cap back on. Done.
Timer knob was broken AND it was falling down from center
First I unplugged the washer and removed the old knob and compression ring hoping that the new ones would be centered. Everything still dropped, so I opened up the panel from the back and found that a very thin plastic piece which held the knob and associated timer behind it in place was broken on one side. I taped the timer in place with
... Read more duct tape, then made a little support out of some stiff cardboard and taped that underneath the time to support it from below. Then I closed the panel back up and applied the new ring, knob, and clip. So far, everything is working fine! The new knob came with a clip, so I have an extra clip... This was not really very hard, but I had to figure out the additional steps to take because of the broken plastic inside.
The dial is held on the cycle control shaft w/a clip. Using a small pair of long nose pliers, pull the clip out of the slot in the control knob. Remove the outer knob exposing the indicator.Easy....
Reginald from ROCKLEDGE, FL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Pliers
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timer knob teeth were stripped. knob could not turn the wash cycle ring
to remove the timer knob you need needle nose pliers to pull out the clip behind the knob that holds it in place. Also to install the new knob use the pliers to insert the clip.
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
6 questions answered by our experts.
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Jennifer Saballos
August 2, 2017
The outer knob will not spin the dial to start the machine. I have to push down on the outer part to advance and start the machine. Do i just need to replace that outer part so that the top knob will advance everything? Tia
For model number WHDSR109J5WW
Hi Jennifer,
Thank you for the question, I suggest remove each part of the knob to see if there is any damage to the knob. If there is a problem with the knob there will be physical damage you can see. If all parts of the knob are intact you may need to replace the switch behind the knob, Part number PS1482374.
Hope this helps!
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Kathy
August 4, 2018
I am having a very hard time trying to pull the knob out to start the machine. I have to put a screw driver behind it to help me pull the knob out to start the machine. Thank you
For model number whdsr316g1ww
Hello Kathy, thank you for writing. I would recommend removing the knob to see if there are any broken pieces on the inside of the knob and the dial. Once the knob it off, try to start the appliance using a pair of pliers to pull the shaft. If the shaft is very hard to pull with the pliers you will need to replace the timer itself, part number PS1482382. I hope this helps!
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Ann
October 14, 2017
I bought a new control knob and clip but when i try to put the on the dial with compression ring not tight, just spends around.
For model number gcwp1800d0ww
Hi Ann,
Thank you for your question. Here is a video that we have showing how this part is installed on your machine: https://youtu.be/wnRj1bNQvrw , hopefully that will clear things up. Good luck with your repair!
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Gayle
October 14, 2017
What clip do i need for my model washer?
For model number WJRR4170G1WW
Hi Gayle,
Thank you for your question. I have linked the clip for your timer knob down below for you. Good luck with your repair.
Hello, i put on a new timer knob and new timer but the timer knob still does turn where you can hear the clicking sound. I removed the timer from the washer and put the knob and clip on it while it was in my hand and it worked perfectly. However, when i attached the timer back to the washer, closed everything up and put the knob and clip on, it would not work. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? I thought maybe the timer wasn't snapped into place properly but it seems secure. Thanks.
For model number WHDSR209G2WW
Hi Gloria,
Thank you for your question. If the timer worked in you hand, it should work in the washer. Sometimes other parts can effect how the timer operates. The lid switch is a safety feature found on most top loading washing machines. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. The lid switch supplies power to the timer and motor circuits. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the timer circuit then the switch may be defective. Disconnect power from the appliance and remove the wires from the switch. You can then check the switch for continuity with a multi-meter. We strongly recommend that you DO NOT bypass a lid switch as it is an important safety feature and serious injury could result. The water level control on washing machines is used to turn the water valve on and off at the selected levels, as well as to supply power to the timer motor when the correct water level is reached. If your washer fills but the timer does not advance you may have a defective water level switch. When the water inlet valve shuts off you can then check the water level switch for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance first and then remove the appropriate wires from the control before performing the test. Verify the proper contacts to check with the schematic diagram. The drain pump removes water from the washing machine tub at the end of the wash and rinse portions of the cycle. If the drain pump fails then the washer will not sense that the tub is empty and may not advance into the next portion of the cycle. If your washer stalls at the end of the wash or rinse portions of the cycle, you should check to see if the drain pump is functioning properly. Some electronic controlled models may display a fault code if this condition occurs. If your machine is flashing a fault code, you can refer to our list of common appliance fault codes to determine the source. The water inlet valve is used to supply both hot and cold water to the washer during the fill portions of the cycle. The valve will have at least two electric solenoids that open the valve when required. If your washer does not advance through the cycle or stalls at a wash or rinse fill portion, then the water inlet valve may be at fault. You should first verify that the inlet hoses do not have any kinks or restrictions and that the inlet screens are clean. If these are ok, then you can check the continuity of the solenoids with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance before attempting this test. If either of the solenoids is open circuit then you will have to replace the valve. If the solenoids appear to be normal, then you can check for the proper voltage to the solenoids during the fill portions of the cycle. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If no voltage is detected, then you will need to check the fill circuit components including the timer, water level switch, cycle selector switch and the lid switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Carole
March 1, 2022
My washer knob can go up (start) when pulled an go down when pushed (stop), but it will not move. When it broke it waS on rinse and it did complete the cycle of rinsing and emptying the water. but I cannot move it now. Is it the dial with compression ring that will fix it.
For model number S3700G1WW
Hello Carole, Thank you for your inquiry. The dial only turns with the knob on the timer switch, and it is most likely the shaft on your timer switch that is faulty and would need to be replaced. The switch is part# PS1482382. We hope this helps and if you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
