Timer Knob WH01X10310

Took out the 3 screws holding the back on and removed the back. Unplugged the timer, took off the knob and dial. Removed the old timer. Replaced with the new timer, replaced the screws holding the timer in. Put the new dial and timer knob. Replaced the back tightened the screws and started the washer up. Yeah!

I followed the easy instructions on the video site for installing a knob and clip on a GE washer. The knob and clip were not available to find locally. I was told at a part store that a whole new operating switch had to be replaced which would be approximately $180 to buy. After visiting your site, and viewing your easy instructions, only a knob and clip were needed. Delivery was in 3 days. Very easy installation. Saved bucks. Pleasant experience.

I took of the old clip an broken piece of the knob, and removed the selection plate, and push on the new knob and clip, using my pliers.

Removed screws from the back removed screw from timer replaced timer. Removed front panel and replaced belt videos were extremely helpful

Watched video,removed clip and pulled knob off.

Watched video online when I ordered the parts very helpful

Followed videos on partselect.com for changing tub bearing. Video does very good job of showing steps required. Repair would be easy if washer was new. First problem was conical tub nut could not be loosened even applying penetrating oil and heat. Finally resorted to 1/2" drive pneumatic impact gun (wrench) which hammered about 10 seconds before the nut came loose. Had to purchase 1-11/16 deep well 6 point impact socket at cost of about $30 for this task. Second difficulty was removing tub seal whose exterior rubber coating had apparently failed and the seal internal metal parts corroded causing it to expand. The tub seal had to be beat out from the bottom side using a drift. The next difficulty was removing the tub bearing which had corroded from minor leakage through the tub seal. Corrosion made the tub bearing outside diameter (OD) larger so it could not be removed using the method in the video. The outer tub bottom side was supported as close to the center as best possible and a socket just smaller than the tub bearing OD was placed on top of the bearing and was used to drive (hammer) the tub bearing out. There was a lot of cleaning necessary especially on the inner tub conical fit areas where tub rides on the split ring and hub nut. During reassembly the tub seal did not have a press fit into the tub; it was barely finger tight. I suspect the tub had permanently distorted in the seal area because the old tub seal had corroded and expanded. So silicone sealant was applied to the outside diameter of the tub seal to assure no leakage around the seal. I allowed that to cure overnight to be certain the seal would not move when inserting the shaft and mode shifter through the seal. A very light oil was applied inside the tub bearing. The last problem found was when tightening the bolts holding the base frame to the outer tub the base frame was pulled to one side so the mode shifter was not concentric with the base frame. This would place a side load on the mode shifter shaft and tub bearing. This was resolved by placing a 1/16" thick washer between one leg of the tub and base frame which maintained the base frame concentric to the mode shifter as the tub to base frame bolts were tightened. The repair is conceptually easy to perform but was challenging due to corrosion and detergent residue from 11 years operation. Now the washer rotating parts are essentially new, the repaired assembly is probably better than the original factory assembly, and the washer should operate for another ten years before the mode shifter bearing goes out again. A longer repair than anticipated but time and money well spent. Being retired helps.

Initially I thought just the timer knob would take care of my washer not working, but that was too naive of me, lol.
I had to replace the timer knob & clip, the compression dial and the agitator and the agitator coupling.
In other words I rebuilt my washer using the installation video's provided here.
I now have a "brand new" washing machine for a total of less than$100 and it is working perfectly!

YOUR ILLUSTRATION

Pry the cap off of the top of the agitator, then one 7/16 bolt to remove the agitator (takes around 15" of extensions to reach the bolt and there is a small o-ring under the bolt that you don't want to miss).
The hard part is getting the old coupler out of the agitator. Four lock tabs need to be held back while the coupler is pulled out. I warmed it all up with a heat gun, pried the tabs back with screw drivers, and pulled the coupler out with a pair of Channel Locks. Kinda like pulling a very big tooth. After that, all was easy. Line the new coupler up with the locator splines in the agitator, knock it in with a rubber mallet. Slide the agitator back on the shaft, run the bolt back in and tighten (don't forget the o-ring), pop the cap back on. Done.