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12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board
12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board 12069099-2-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board 12069099-3-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/GE/00125008i08.gif

Electronic Board

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$255.22
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10942P
Manufactured by GE

This board controls the operation of the unit. Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint.

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Fridge too warm.
  • Clicking sound.
  • Noisy.
  • Not dispensing water.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Ice maker won’t dispense ice.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Too warm.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Our freezer section iced up. Took panel off to expose ice on back wall of freezer; when i dialed fridge and freezer controls to zero to defrost, freezer fan continued to run. I unplugged unit and defrosted. I have plugged back in and allowed freezer and fridge to cool. Water in container in freezer is frozen. Fridge temp is 41f. The fan runs continuously, which does not seem proper. Advice?

joe for model number GSL25QGPDBS
Answer:

Hello Joe, thank you for contacting us. That sounds like it would be the temperature sensor. The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. If your refrigerator or freezer runs too long, is too warm, will not defrost, or has sections that are too cold, replacing this part is the solution. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Temperature Sensor
4 people found this helpful.
Question:

We are wondering if this would solve our problem. Our refrigerator works fine, but it has a clicking/snapping noise that isn't constant. It will sometimes click/snap, intermittently, for 2-3 hours......stop for a few hours....then start up again, for a few min or hours. There doesn't seem to be a pattern. Even though it isn't a loud sound, we have two little schnauzers that are terrified of it and it is making life very stressful for them & us. Do you have any idea what it might be?I appreciate your help. Thank-you.

Bev for model number GSH25JSXBSS
Answer:

Hi Bev, Thank you for the question. The Electronic Board is known to make a clicking noise when it is becoming defective and needs to be replaced. I recommend replacing the board. Good luck with dogs and the repair!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have no display and nothing works but the light door switch

Kris for model number PSS26GRB
Answer:

Hi Kris, Sorry to hear the display is not working. It sounds like it may be the control board of the touchpad. To verify what part is causing the issue you can use an Ohms/Multi Meter to check the continuity of the parts. I hope this helps. Have a great day!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

After power outage due to storm, fridge doesn't work. The lights work but the front panel doesn't light up and the fridge/freezer don't turn on/cool. I replaced the front control panel board but it still has the same issue. Will this motherboard fix the issue?

Shannon for model number HSS25GFTABB
Answer:

Hi Shannon, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

After a power outage, the refrigerator runs constantly. I turn the thermostat down and it continue to run until I reach the zero setting.As soon as I turn the thermostat up, the refrigerator start running. The temperature in the refrigerator is cold. The freezer section works fine

Charles for model number GDL20KCSABS
Answer:

Hi Charles, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced, But his sounds like the Capacitor,this part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Temp warm in frig and freezer replace all sensor and fan motor and the defrost heater do you think its the control board ? I guess its the last thing to replace

Roger for model number GSS22SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. Have you also checked your thermostats as well? If not, I would suggest checked your thermostats and defrost thermostat first. If all of those parts are just fine, then you may need to replace your board. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Freezer cools, fridge doesn’t. I replaced Master bored. Same problem persists. What could it be?

Sherman for model number PDS22MBSBCC
Answer:

Hi Sherman, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Temperature Sensor,Part Number: WR55X10025. Both the freezer and fridge side has its own sensor and may explain why one side works and the other does not.The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The temperature control setting panel is totally blank, all lights are working, water dispenser is working, can you give me a answer to this question?

Keith for model number pfs22sisss ge profile refrig
Answer:

Hi Keith, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will have to replace your display board. I have linked that part number down below for you. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Display Control Board
1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Recently had both sides warm up. Found condenser fan motor stuck. Replaced. Operated correctly for 4 days. Now no cooling. Condenser fan not working and compressor not working. Compressor not hot or warm. Is this problem likely to be motherboard or something else. Thanks

Richard for model number ZFSB26DRDSS
Answer:

Hi Richard, Thank you for your inquiry. If there is no cooling in the refrigerator or freezer section there are a few parts that may fix the issue. The parts that may fix this issue are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload switch or the door gasket. For the electrical parts I would recommend testing them with a multimeter to verify the continuity of each part and to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Is there a way to test if the relay in the mother board that turns on heater defrost is working ? I tested the heater manually by bypassing it it turns on, but how do I know that it's turning on by itself when needed to defrost.

Carlos for model number GSS25SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Carlos, Thank you for the question. You can test the board by checking for continuity and resistance with a multi meter. Hope this helps!

Question:

My refrigerator is no longer outputing cold air in both the freezer and the refrigerator. The light comes on(so there is power), but the led that's at the top no longer has power.....i'm thinking it's the mother board??? i did turn off the circuit for a minute then turned it back on with no luck....

shawn miller for model number PSS26SGRB SS
Answer:

Hi Shawn, Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that may be causing this issue. The parts you will need to check are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the capacitor kit, the dc condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Hi--the compressor fan motor keeps slowing down causing the compressor to run hot. When the rpm's go down it squeals like a bad bearing but at full voltage no noise any ideas?

David for model number GSS25WGPJBB
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like you may need to replace your compressor fan motor if it is giving you trouble like that. The only other part that you may want to check would be your electronic board. Good luck with your repair.

Most Recent

Question:

Have GE side by side freezer/frig. After installing your mother board it unit again warmed up after 5 days both sides with frost on back of freezer. Compressor & evaporator fan working. Which part do i now need. Thank you

Dean for model number GSL25KGRBBS
Answer:

Hi Dean, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will want to check your defrost heater and your defrost thermostat to see if they are working correctly. You could test both of these parts with a multi meter meter to be sure. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Refrigerator does not turn on only the two light bulbs are on when open the fridge. Power is at compressor but nothing comes on and no light on the board inside the fridge. What could be the problem?

Tony for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your run capacitor and your overload switch first. If both of those parts are fine you may have to replace your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with you repair.

Question:

I have no light in the panel board where shows the temperature install new board will this take care of such?

Linton for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Linton, Thank you for your question. It should be this part that would fix that issue. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

I had the board replaced and a new ice maker installed. Ice maker gets too much water.

Ray for model number GSH25SGPCSS
Answer:

Hi Ray, Thank you for the question. If the ice maker is over filling this normally indicates the Dual Inlet Water Valve needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Dual Inlet Water Valve
Question:

My fridge has stopped working, the compressor and fan do not kick on. Things i've tried already: I've shaken the relay, no rattling sounds. Tested the wires that come from the starter relay, no voltage. Tested the 3 compressor prongs that are on the motherboard and i have power to all of them. No power from fan wires when i tested them. Could this be a motherboard issue?

Tim for model number GSL25JFPABS
Answer:

Hi Tim, Thank you for your question. It does sound like it could be your control board that is the issue. You may also want to test the thermistors in your appliance as well. It could be that they are not working and so your compressor does not know that it should be turning on. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Nothing on the fridge works including the display on the ice maker, compressor, fan but the inside lights lite up.

Alan for model number gsh25jstass
Answer:

Hi Alan, Thank you for the question. This sounds like there is an issue with the Electronic Board,This board controls the operation of the unit.Hope this helps!

Question:

Our ice dispenser and water dispenser stopped working and there is a clicking sound i unplugged the wires from the board can it stay unplugged until the new board is installed

Robert
Answer:

Hi Robert, Thank you for your inquiry. You should be able to leave the board unplugged until until the new one is plugged in. Please also refer to your owners manual for further instructions. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Me GE refrigerator is stuck in show room mode after a power outage. As instructed i have in unplugged the unit and plugged it back in several times for as much as an hour. Do i have a bad mother board?

Thompson for model number gsc23ksta ss
Answer:

Hi Thompson, Thank you for your inquiry. The electronic control board fixes the issue the majority of the time, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the capacitor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload/start relay, the temperature sensor, the recess door spring, the dc condenser fan motor, the dispenser solenoid assembly, the water filter, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the power cord and the ice maker. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My appliance continues to dispense water or ice unless i have the lock button turned on. What is my problem?

Scott for model number PSC23MSWASS
Answer:

Hi Scott, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your door dispenser solenoid, you should also test your ice maker as well. If both of those parts are checking out fine, it may be your board that is the issue. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Temp warm in both frig and freezer. Had service out. The compressor, fan and starter relay working. Pulled of panel to check evaporator coils. There was frost on both ends, but not in the middle. They think i need a new compressor. What's your opinion. Not looking to spend $600 to have this done..

Jim for model number PFS22SISBSS
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. I would actually suggest taking a look at all of the temperature sensors inside your fridge and freezer. It could be that you need a new compressor, however you may actually need a new electronic control board. Unfortunately testing that part is difficult. You may have to have your technician come in and test that part or speak with your manufacturer. Sometimes they will have a list of how to troubleshoot parts like your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Hi. My evaporator froze causing warm air. Found the heating element was damaged and changed it, also changed the defroster sensor and the thermostat sensor. Evaporator still freezing. Is there anything else that has to be changed ? Besides the mother board ? Thanks.

Martin for model number GSS25SGRFSS
Answer:

Hi Martin, Thank you for your inquiry. If the refrigerator section is too warm and you have already replaced the heating element, the defrost sensor and the defrost heater I would recommend trying to replace the evaporator fan motor. You may also wish to check the condenser fan motor as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Is the electric board compatible with both model wr55x10942 and gss25pgmf??

Tracy for model number WR55X10942
Answer:

Hello Tracy, Thank you for your question. The board with GE part number WR55X10942 was replaced by the manufacturer with GE part number WR55X10942P or PartSelect.com catalog number PS12069099. This is listed as the correct board for model number GSS25PGMF. I hope this is helpful!

Question:

The refrigerator side does not get cold enough. It is around 50 and it used to be in the the 32 to 40 range. There is no frost build up on the evaporator. The evaporator fan is running. The damper between the freezer and refrigerator is fully open. Freezer has a temp of -5. There are no obstructions that i can see. Does the evaporator fan speed up and slow down to force more air into the refrigerator side or is it all done with the damper?

Carl for model number DSS25PFMCWW
Answer:

Hi Carl, Thank you for your inquiry. The fan should only run when your compressor is running. It sounds like you might want to check both your defrost thermostat and the temperature sensors inside of your refrigerator section. You can test both of those parts with a multi-meter to check and see if they are working. You can also check your fan physically to see if there is any ice build up stopping the fan from moving, and you can also test your evaporator fan motor with that same multi-meter to see if it is working. Good luck with your repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 144 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: robert from melrose, IA

Deep freeze defrosting and frig. Getting warm shortly after stoped cooling completley

Received main board in less than two days. back of frig. small panel removed 3 screws, removed cover exposing main board with needle plires squeesed 4 plastic tips to release board unpluged conectors, reinstaled new board, worked perfict. Thank you for your helpfull web site. Bob.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: scott from washington, NC

Freezer would freeze then thaw

diagnosis, fan would run more than normal, compressor would only come on sometimes, check line voltage to the mother board (yes !!! a mother board with a relay for the compressor built onto it )! check the switched voltage out to the compressor. If a/c 115 in but no a/c 115 out while the fan is on replace the mother board. Remember this is a LIVE VOLTAGE TEST, BE CAREFUL HOW AND WHAT YOU TOUCH YOUR LIFE IS NOT WORTH SAVING A REPAIR BILL !!!
I suppose if if went long enough in this condition the result would be fan runs a lot but it does not get cold.
Hope this helps
God Bless
Captain Scott Cousins

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: HECTOR from INGLESIDE, TX

Faulty motherboard

Disconnected power at outlet. Removed three screws from access panel. Disconnected six electrical connections, compressed three plastic retaining pins and removed board. Installed new board and reconnected connections, installed three screws on access panel and turned the fridge on. No more crazy evaporator motor noise

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Michael from Baldwin, NY

Refrigerator wasn't cooling

Very simple fix by replacing the mother board. Your "how to" video made the repair even easier. The appliance repair estimate was over $400. I saved over $200. I already recommended your site to several other people. Thanks for making it so easy

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Terry from Cheyenne, WY

Periodic and intermittent "clicking," during which the lights on the temp control unit would go out. When clicking stopped and lights returned, temp control unit was not accepting adjustments in temp

Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.

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2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Raul from Columbia, MD

Control panel on the front door became was dead. Replace the main control board was de solution suggested by a technician.

I followed instructions in your video. at the beggining I hesitated because the original card had two fewer ports than the new one. but after a call to a Partselect representative I confirm that I had the right card. after that it was a matter of connet wires to the ports. 1 week later my refrigerator is running smooth. Thaks a to Partselect I have saved a bunch of money.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: joseph from Middletown, DE

Refrigerator clicking noise

removed cover from rear of refrigerator. disconnect mother board connections. Unplug first, used needle nose pliers to squeeze plastic tabs holding on motherboard and replaced old with new and plugged back in connections. Plug back in refrigerator and done.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Robin from Chesapeake, VA

Frost on back panel and frig and freezer would get warm.

I wouldn't have had a clue without your video. After the part was delivered, which was only in two days, I watched the video. The man explained everything perfectly, making our "fix" a breeze. It was great, I stood over my husband's shoulder, while he sat on the floor and told him what to do step by step. It couldn't have been easier. You guys are awesome!

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: John from Hopewell Junction, NY

Fridge/freezer bad temps and clicking sounds from rear

Found out via searches that the most likely failed part was the Main Control Board. A simple repair with basic tools and a HUGE savings. Thanks to everyone here for the posts.

PS - on my particular GE model PFS22SISBSS there was no need to cut any wires as per the instructions because the wires did not exist on this unit.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: John from Sandy Springs, GA

Noticed ice and water through door stopped working. Then a pulsing of the ice/water led then stopped running and cooling. Six years old

Removed circuit board cover, unplugged l
Leads, rePlaced board, leads and cover. Done

Also watch the video. Super simple

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2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: John from Ventura, CA

Loud noise and freezer side was melting and fridge side was freezing

I started by un-plugging the power cord. Then I removed the back panel and swapped the boards. Then I had to remove everything from the freezer side to get access to the evaporator fan motor and the defrost thermostat.
All things considered I saved a lot of money by doing the repair myself. I'm so glad I found partselect.com

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Kirk from Rio Rancho, NM

Ice/water dispenser would not work and refrigerator stopped cooling

The first and most important step was to diagnose the problem. To do this I found the Parts Select website and the part I thought was the problem. The previous repairs stories helped me to pin point the problem. The mother board came within a couple of days. All I had to do was take the back plate/guard off, unplug the connectors in the back, unclip the mother board and then do the reverse over again. The only problem was the ground wire. I had to take the one off that came with the part and switch it out with the old one, because it would not connect to my refrigerator. This was fairly simple and in about 30 min. I was done and had our refrigerator back. Luckily we had another in the garage as a back up so we didn't loose any food.

Thanks Parts Select

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: adam from murfreesboro, TN

Lights on water dispencer went out. Then both sides of fridge went out. Wouldn't cool or freeze. Only lights in fridge would work.

Pull fridge out. Pull the little 6 by 12 silver plate off on the back middle bottom of fridge. Disconnect the quick connects . Remove from 4 plastic pins. Them reassemble.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Brent from Williamsburg, VA

Freezer would not auto defrost; needed new filter

Unplug Fridge unscrew rear compartment where main board was located, unfastened old board.

Unplug one wire harness from the old board and fit on the new board, repeat until the new board was wired, secured new main board to fridge.
****Manually defrost freezer before restarting. ****

WAY LESS THAN THE PRICE OF A REPAIR VISIT.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Marvin from London, KY

Relay on may circuit board would not kick-in

I took the 3 screws off the cover that is in the back of the appliance, unpluged the plugs that attached to the circuit board pressed the 4 plastic pins that held the old board. Then I snapped the new board in place and pluged the plugs back into the new board. They will only go on one way so you cannot get the plug in the wrong place, job done appliance works fine. Thanks

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942P
Brand Model Number Description
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General ElectricBSS25JSTBSSRefrigerator - T Series