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12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board
12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board 12069099-2-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board 12069099-3-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/GE/00125008i08.gif

Electronic Board

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$255.22
$55
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PartSelect Number PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10942P
Manufactured by GE

This board controls the operation of the unit. Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint.

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Fridge too warm.
  • Clicking sound.
  • Noisy.
  • Not dispensing water.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Ice maker won’t dispense ice.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Too warm.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Our freezer section iced up. Took panel off to expose ice on back wall of freezer; when i dialed fridge and freezer controls to zero to defrost, freezer fan continued to run. I unplugged unit and defrosted. I have plugged back in and allowed freezer and fridge to cool. Water in container in freezer is frozen. Fridge temp is 41f. The fan runs continuously, which does not seem proper. Advice?

joe for model number GSL25QGPDBS
Answer:

Hello Joe, thank you for contacting us. That sounds like it would be the temperature sensor. The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. If your refrigerator or freezer runs too long, is too warm, will not defrost, or has sections that are too cold, replacing this part is the solution. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Temperature Sensor
4 people found this helpful.
Question:

We are wondering if this would solve our problem. Our refrigerator works fine, but it has a clicking/snapping noise that isn't constant. It will sometimes click/snap, intermittently, for 2-3 hours......stop for a few hours....then start up again, for a few min or hours. There doesn't seem to be a pattern. Even though it isn't a loud sound, we have two little schnauzers that are terrified of it and it is making life very stressful for them & us. Do you have any idea what it might be?I appreciate your help. Thank-you.

Bev for model number GSH25JSXBSS
Answer:

Hi Bev, Thank you for the question. The Electronic Board is known to make a clicking noise when it is becoming defective and needs to be replaced. I recommend replacing the board. Good luck with dogs and the repair!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have no display and nothing works but the light door switch

Kris for model number PSS26GRB
Answer:

Hi Kris, Sorry to hear the display is not working. It sounds like it may be the control board of the touchpad. To verify what part is causing the issue you can use an Ohms/Multi Meter to check the continuity of the parts. I hope this helps. Have a great day!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

After power outage due to storm, fridge doesn't work. The lights work but the front panel doesn't light up and the fridge/freezer don't turn on/cool. I replaced the front control panel board but it still has the same issue. Will this motherboard fix the issue?

Shannon for model number HSS25GFTABB
Answer:

Hi Shannon, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

After a power outage, the refrigerator runs constantly. I turn the thermostat down and it continue to run until I reach the zero setting.As soon as I turn the thermostat up, the refrigerator start running. The temperature in the refrigerator is cold. The freezer section works fine

Charles for model number GDL20KCSABS
Answer:

Hi Charles, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced, But his sounds like the Capacitor,this part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Temp warm in frig and freezer replace all sensor and fan motor and the defrost heater do you think its the control board ? I guess its the last thing to replace

Roger for model number GSS22SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. Have you also checked your thermostats as well? If not, I would suggest checked your thermostats and defrost thermostat first. If all of those parts are just fine, then you may need to replace your board. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Freezer cools, fridge doesn’t. I replaced Master bored. Same problem persists. What could it be?

Sherman for model number PDS22MBSBCC
Answer:

Hi Sherman, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Temperature Sensor,Part Number: WR55X10025. Both the freezer and fridge side has its own sensor and may explain why one side works and the other does not.The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The temperature control setting panel is totally blank, all lights are working, water dispenser is working, can you give me a answer to this question?

Keith for model number pfs22sisss ge profile refrig
Answer:

Hi Keith, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will have to replace your display board. I have linked that part number down below for you. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Display Control Board
1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Recently had both sides warm up. Found condenser fan motor stuck. Replaced. Operated correctly for 4 days. Now no cooling. Condenser fan not working and compressor not working. Compressor not hot or warm. Is this problem likely to be motherboard or something else. Thanks

Richard for model number ZFSB26DRDSS
Answer:

Hi Richard, Thank you for your inquiry. If there is no cooling in the refrigerator or freezer section there are a few parts that may fix the issue. The parts that may fix this issue are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload switch or the door gasket. For the electrical parts I would recommend testing them with a multimeter to verify the continuity of each part and to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Is there a way to test if the relay in the mother board that turns on heater defrost is working ? I tested the heater manually by bypassing it it turns on, but how do I know that it's turning on by itself when needed to defrost.

Carlos for model number GSS25SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Carlos, Thank you for the question. You can test the board by checking for continuity and resistance with a multi meter. Hope this helps!

Question:

My refrigerator is no longer outputing cold air in both the freezer and the refrigerator. The light comes on(so there is power), but the led that's at the top no longer has power.....i'm thinking it's the mother board??? i did turn off the circuit for a minute then turned it back on with no luck....

shawn miller for model number PSS26SGRB SS
Answer:

Hi Shawn, Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that may be causing this issue. The parts you will need to check are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the capacitor kit, the dc condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Hi--the compressor fan motor keeps slowing down causing the compressor to run hot. When the rpm's go down it squeals like a bad bearing but at full voltage no noise any ideas?

David for model number GSS25WGPJBB
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like you may need to replace your compressor fan motor if it is giving you trouble like that. The only other part that you may want to check would be your electronic board. Good luck with your repair.

Most Recent

Question:

Have GE side by side freezer/frig. After installing your mother board it unit again warmed up after 5 days both sides with frost on back of freezer. Compressor & evaporator fan working. Which part do i now need. Thank you

Dean for model number GSL25KGRBBS
Answer:

Hi Dean, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will want to check your defrost heater and your defrost thermostat to see if they are working correctly. You could test both of these parts with a multi meter meter to be sure. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Refrigerator does not turn on only the two light bulbs are on when open the fridge. Power is at compressor but nothing comes on and no light on the board inside the fridge. What could be the problem?

Tony for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your run capacitor and your overload switch first. If both of those parts are fine you may have to replace your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with you repair.

Question:

I have no light in the panel board where shows the temperature install new board will this take care of such?

Linton for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Linton, Thank you for your question. It should be this part that would fix that issue. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

I had the board replaced and a new ice maker installed. Ice maker gets too much water.

Ray for model number GSH25SGPCSS
Answer:

Hi Ray, Thank you for the question. If the ice maker is over filling this normally indicates the Dual Inlet Water Valve needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Dual Inlet Water Valve
Question:

My fridge has stopped working, the compressor and fan do not kick on. Things i've tried already: I've shaken the relay, no rattling sounds. Tested the wires that come from the starter relay, no voltage. Tested the 3 compressor prongs that are on the motherboard and i have power to all of them. No power from fan wires when i tested them. Could this be a motherboard issue?

Tim for model number GSL25JFPABS
Answer:

Hi Tim, Thank you for your question. It does sound like it could be your control board that is the issue. You may also want to test the thermistors in your appliance as well. It could be that they are not working and so your compressor does not know that it should be turning on. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Nothing on the fridge works including the display on the ice maker, compressor, fan but the inside lights lite up.

Alan for model number gsh25jstass
Answer:

Hi Alan, Thank you for the question. This sounds like there is an issue with the Electronic Board,This board controls the operation of the unit.Hope this helps!

Question:

Our ice dispenser and water dispenser stopped working and there is a clicking sound i unplugged the wires from the board can it stay unplugged until the new board is installed

Robert
Answer:

Hi Robert, Thank you for your inquiry. You should be able to leave the board unplugged until until the new one is plugged in. Please also refer to your owners manual for further instructions. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Me GE refrigerator is stuck in show room mode after a power outage. As instructed i have in unplugged the unit and plugged it back in several times for as much as an hour. Do i have a bad mother board?

Thompson for model number gsc23ksta ss
Answer:

Hi Thompson, Thank you for your inquiry. The electronic control board fixes the issue the majority of the time, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the capacitor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload/start relay, the temperature sensor, the recess door spring, the dc condenser fan motor, the dispenser solenoid assembly, the water filter, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the power cord and the ice maker. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My appliance continues to dispense water or ice unless i have the lock button turned on. What is my problem?

Scott for model number PSC23MSWASS
Answer:

Hi Scott, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your door dispenser solenoid, you should also test your ice maker as well. If both of those parts are checking out fine, it may be your board that is the issue. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Temp warm in both frig and freezer. Had service out. The compressor, fan and starter relay working. Pulled of panel to check evaporator coils. There was frost on both ends, but not in the middle. They think i need a new compressor. What's your opinion. Not looking to spend $600 to have this done..

Jim for model number PFS22SISBSS
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. I would actually suggest taking a look at all of the temperature sensors inside your fridge and freezer. It could be that you need a new compressor, however you may actually need a new electronic control board. Unfortunately testing that part is difficult. You may have to have your technician come in and test that part or speak with your manufacturer. Sometimes they will have a list of how to troubleshoot parts like your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Hi. My evaporator froze causing warm air. Found the heating element was damaged and changed it, also changed the defroster sensor and the thermostat sensor. Evaporator still freezing. Is there anything else that has to be changed ? Besides the mother board ? Thanks.

Martin for model number GSS25SGRFSS
Answer:

Hi Martin, Thank you for your inquiry. If the refrigerator section is too warm and you have already replaced the heating element, the defrost sensor and the defrost heater I would recommend trying to replace the evaporator fan motor. You may also wish to check the condenser fan motor as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Is the electric board compatible with both model wr55x10942 and gss25pgmf??

Tracy for model number WR55X10942
Answer:

Hello Tracy, Thank you for your question. The board with GE part number WR55X10942 was replaced by the manufacturer with GE part number WR55X10942P or PartSelect.com catalog number PS12069099. This is listed as the correct board for model number GSS25PGMF. I hope this is helpful!

Question:

The refrigerator side does not get cold enough. It is around 50 and it used to be in the the 32 to 40 range. There is no frost build up on the evaporator. The evaporator fan is running. The damper between the freezer and refrigerator is fully open. Freezer has a temp of -5. There are no obstructions that i can see. Does the evaporator fan speed up and slow down to force more air into the refrigerator side or is it all done with the damper?

Carl for model number DSS25PFMCWW
Answer:

Hi Carl, Thank you for your inquiry. The fan should only run when your compressor is running. It sounds like you might want to check both your defrost thermostat and the temperature sensors inside of your refrigerator section. You can test both of those parts with a multi-meter to check and see if they are working. You can also check your fan physically to see if there is any ice build up stopping the fan from moving, and you can also test your evaporator fan motor with that same multi-meter to see if it is working. Good luck with your repair.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 144 reviews What's this?
 

5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: David from White Pine, TN

Would not cool top or bottom

Everything looked to be working but the compressor. As a pro checked every thing came down to a relay on the main board.

Just removed cover from back top left. marked and removed all wires. removed old board and installed new board very easy. Must read paper sent with it,
you may need to cut wires on some models.

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6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: louis from floral park, NY

Evap fan not working.

first i removed the three screws that covered the circuit board that was bad. then i removed the 6 connectors that went from the refrigerator to the board then popped out the old board , popped in the new board reconnected the circuit connectors covered everything back up and my refrigerator is back on line. this all took about 10 to 15 minutes time ... thank you for your product it really did the job..

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Linda from Tiverton, RI

Freezer/fridge not cold & compresser would not turn on.

For troubleshooting, I took off rear panel inside of the freezer compartment & determined that icing of the coils was not the problem & it did not apprear to be a defroster malfunction. All components appeared to be working properly except the compressor would not turn on and only room temperature air was being circulated by the fan. After narrowing the probable causes down to a faulty Main control board by reading as many similar posts as possible,I ordered the new control board. When it arrived the following morning via UPS(less than 24 hours!), I unplugged the wiring connections attached to the old board, (which was somewhat different in appearance), and then gently popped the circuit board off of the plastic retainer studs by pushing in the little retaining clip part of the studs in with a small screwdriver so the board could be released easier as I pulled outward. I popped the new board on the studs by gently & evenly pushing with a larger hut driver over the studs until it was locked in, being careful not to damage or over stress/bend the board. I placed the wiring connecters onto the pins on the board.....every connecter had a different amount of pins so improper connection was not possible. I placed the ground wire connection of the new board between the metal cover plate @ an adjacent screw location to ensure grounding to the back of the fridge sheet metal. I plugged in the refrigerator and was quite relieved when I heard the compressor start up after a second or two! Within moments the temp began to fall until it reached the proper temp in both compartments. Success!

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4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Tim from Mountain View, AR

Ice cream melting, lettuce freezing

Removed the back cover over the control board, and made sure that the board was the same. It didn't look exactly the same, but figured that it was the same, just updated. Took out the board, moved the wires to the new board and reinstalled. Plugged it in and it came on, so I reinstalled the cover. Seems to be working to this day.

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4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: H E from St Simons Island, GA

Refrigerator/freezer warm & condenser fan not running

The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.

Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Pliers
Customer: LEE from WILMINGTON, DE

Clicking nose from mother board

pulled the board away from the 4 plastic pins, unplugged the wires and plugged them directly into the new noard, pushed board back onto the four plastic pins.......job completed in under 5 minutes. Fridge working fine now for over a week......no problems.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Pat from Pensacola, FL

No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.

Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: James from Akron, PA

Compressor would not come on. Found the relay on the main board burned up. There was no electrical power to the compressor .

Ordered a new Main circuit Board. It arrived next day. Unplug the fridge to take away electrical power. Unscrewed the panel on the back of the fridge near the top. I then pulled the wire connectors off the circuit board. Gently pull the board off the plastic tabs. Push the new board onto the tabs. Reconnect the wire connectors. Screw the panel back on.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: David from Barrington, IL

Freezer never kept a consistant temperature. One night heard a clicking noice which was followed by the temperature display showing temps like -31. Researched to find other with the same issue and ordered the replacement board to repair.

I must admit - I thought I'd attempt to do this repair and end up calling a service guy to finish it. I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL but thought I'd give it a shot after reading others experiences. I'm glad I did. The fix was easy, but there was initial anxiety while reading the instructions that came with the part - as they mentioned the possible need to cut some wires. Fortunately that was not necessary..... Removed three screws from the rear plate to expose the part needing to be replaced. Remove the fittings from the old board (needed plyers to do that - be gentle), take the old board out by using needle nose pliers to squeeze the white plastic tabs and pull the board free. Reconnect fittings to new board and you are done. Works better now than ever - obviously the old board had an issue that GE should have recalled, as many others had the same problem.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Dan from Ellicott City, MD

Refrigerator ran too much, condensor fan not running

Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws

Removed connectors and ground wire

Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)

Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on

Everything worked properly

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Philip from Los Alamos, NM

Cabinet very hot on sides, freezer not 0, running continuously.

Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.

First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.

Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.

Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.

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3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Debbie from Tujunga, CA

No cooling hrs display

I removed the board, unplugged all the sockets, took the new board, plugged in all the sockets, and replaced the new board into the refrigerator. I was to applaud this business. I was first able to diagnose the problem by finding this site, then one of the customers explained how to fix the problem ourselves. It save us at least $100. The $25 overnight shipping fee was well worth it. We could have lost $100's of dollars worth of food.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: William from Wylie, TX

Not cooling, defrost issues, whining loud noises

Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: James from El Dorado, AR

Will not defrost

The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Sharon from West Winfield, NY

The fridge was making a clicking sound, and not cooling the food

The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942P
Brand Model Number Description
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