Quick Question!

Have you ever purchased from PartSelect.com before?

12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board
12069099-1-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board 12069099-2-S-GE-WR55X10942P-Electronic Board https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/GE/00125008i08.gif

Electronic Board

Your Price

$255.22
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number WR55X10942P
Manufactured by GE

This board controls the operation of the unit. Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may differ in appearance but will function the same as the original.

This part works with the following brands: General Electric, Hotpoint.

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will Not Start.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Fridge too warm.
  • Clicking sound.
  • Noisy.
  • Not dispensing water.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Ice maker not making ice.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Ice maker won’t dispense ice.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Too warm.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Our freezer section iced up. Took panel off to expose ice on back wall of freezer; when i dialed fridge and freezer controls to zero to defrost, freezer fan continued to run. I unplugged unit and defrosted. I have plugged back in and allowed freezer and fridge to cool. Water in container in freezer is frozen. Fridge temp is 41f. The fan runs continuously, which does not seem proper. Advice?

joe for model number GSL25QGPDBS
Answer:

Hello Joe, thank you for contacting us. That sounds like it would be the temperature sensor. The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. If your refrigerator or freezer runs too long, is too warm, will not defrost, or has sections that are too cold, replacing this part is the solution. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Temperature Sensor
6 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have no display and nothing works but the light door switch

Kris for model number PSS26GRB
Answer:

Hi Kris, Sorry to hear the display is not working. It sounds like it may be the control board of the touchpad. To verify what part is causing the issue you can use an Ohms/Multi Meter to check the continuity of the parts. I hope this helps. Have a great day!

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

After power outage due to storm, fridge doesn't work. The lights work but the front panel doesn't light up and the fridge/freezer don't turn on/cool. I replaced the front control panel board but it still has the same issue. Will this motherboard fix the issue?

Shannon for model number HSS25GFTABB
Answer:

Hi Shannon, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

4 people found this helpful.
Question:

After a power outage, the refrigerator runs constantly. I turn the thermostat down and it continue to run until I reach the zero setting.As soon as I turn the thermostat up, the refrigerator start running. The temperature in the refrigerator is cold. The freezer section works fine

Charles for model number GDL20KCSABS
Answer:

Hi Charles, Thank you for the question. Yes it is common when you have a power outage or serge the main board will need to be replaced, But his sounds like the Capacitor,this part helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer.Hope this helps!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

We are wondering if this would solve our problem. Our refrigerator works fine, but it has a clicking/snapping noise that isn't constant. It will sometimes click/snap, intermittently, for 2-3 hours......stop for a few hours....then start up again, for a few min or hours. There doesn't seem to be a pattern. Even though it isn't a loud sound, we have two little schnauzers that are terrified of it and it is making life very stressful for them & us. Do you have any idea what it might be?I appreciate your help. Thank-you.

Bev for model number GSH25JSXBSS
Answer:

Hi Bev, Thank you for the question. The Electronic Board is known to make a clicking noise when it is becoming defective and needs to be replaced. I recommend replacing the board. Good luck with dogs and the repair!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

Nothing on the fridge works including the display on the ice maker, compressor, fan but the inside lights lite up.

Alan for model number gsh25jstass
Answer:

Hi Alan, Thank you for the question. This sounds like there is an issue with the Electronic Board,This board controls the operation of the unit.Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Freezer cools, fridge doesn’t. I replaced Master bored. Same problem persists. What could it be?

Sherman for model number PDS22MBSBCC
Answer:

Hi Sherman, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Temperature Sensor,Part Number: WR55X10025. Both the freezer and fridge side has its own sensor and may explain why one side works and the other does not.The sensor sends the temperature reading of the refrigerator towards the control board. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I had the board replaced and a new ice maker installed. Ice maker gets too much water.

Ray for model number GSH25SGPCSS
Answer:

Hi Ray, Thank you for the question. If the ice maker is over filling this normally indicates the Dual Inlet Water Valve needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Dual Inlet Water Valve
1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The temperature control setting panel is totally blank, all lights are working, water dispenser is working, can you give me a answer to this question?

Keith for model number pfs22sisss ge profile refrig
Answer:

Hi Keith, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will have to replace your display board. I have linked that part number down below for you. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Display Control Board
1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Is the electric board compatible with both model wr55x10942 and gss25pgmf??

Tracy for model number WR55X10942
Answer:

Hello Tracy, Thank you for your question. The board with GE part number WR55X10942 was replaced by the manufacturer with GE part number WR55X10942P or PartSelect.com catalog number PS12069099. This is listed as the correct board for model number GSS25PGMF. I hope this is helpful!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Temp warm in frig and freezer replace all sensor and fan motor and the defrost heater do you think its the control board ? I guess its the last thing to replace

Roger for model number GSS22SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. Have you also checked your thermostats as well? If not, I would suggest checked your thermostats and defrost thermostat first. If all of those parts are just fine, then you may need to replace your board. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Refrigerator does not turn on only the two light bulbs are on when open the fridge. Power is at compressor but nothing comes on and no light on the board inside the fridge. What could be the problem?

Tony for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your run capacitor and your overload switch first. If both of those parts are fine you may have to replace your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with you repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

It seems nothing is working accept for the refrigerator light. The touch pad is not operational and none of the led's are on. The fuse on the electronic control board is good. When i first plug it in to the wall socket i can hear the pump for the water kick on for just a second or two. Do i need a new board?

Steve for model number HSM25GFTA SA
Answer:

Hi Steve, Thank you for your question. Based on what you described, it does sound like the electronic control board is causing the issue, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the run capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload/start relay and the defrost thermostat. You will need to use a multimeter to check and see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My freezer and fridge warmed up and ice developed on that back of the freezer wall. I had a repair man come by and he has replaced the ps12069099 3 times. Each time the same problem comes back. Now i have to solve the problem myself. This time i turned the settings down on the fridge and freezer to defrost and then turned them back up after plenty of time to defrost. The freezer returned to normal operation but the refrigerator did not. Then i completely unplugged the refrigerator let it defrost and plugged it back in. At this time both the refrigerator and the freezer have returned back to normal operation. The frosting and warming condition take about 12 days to come back.

Jarrett for model number GSH25JFTEWW
Answer:

Hello Jarrett, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: the temperature sensor, the evaporator fan motor, the defrost heater, the thermostat, and the damper control. All of these send information to the control board and if any of them are faulty, they can cause the issue you are referencing. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The refrigerator dispenses ice cubes, nothing else in the dispensing unit works. I replaced the touch pad circuit board, but that was not it. When you push the other pads there is nothing, the cube button lights but the other controls don’t light. Could the main board be bad?

Paul for model number GSH25KGMBBB
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for the question. Yes, if the board in the dispenser did not fix the issue, the next likley part is the control board on the back of the appliance. Good luck with the repair!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

The freezer and the refrigerator both seem to work but the controls don't light up or work. Is the motherboard (wr55x10942) in need of replacement or is there some other problem?

Doug for model number PTS25SHRBRBS
Answer:

Hello Doug, Thank you for your inquiry. This part controls the functioning of the whole unit. If it is just the lights or controls, I would check the door/light switch first. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Temperature indication lights are blank. When cooler or warmer are pressed, "0000" appears momentarily in both the refrigerator and freezer displays. The refrigerator and freezer operating temperatures appear to be ok according to a taylor thermometer on the shelf. Is the control board at fault?

Hans for model number PDS20SCRBRSS
Answer:

Hi Hans, Thank you for the question. I would recommend checking to see if the wires just haven't come lose first and if the issue persists, the Temperature Control Board Part Number: PS966829 may need to be replaced before it starts to effect the temperature . Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

Doesn't display the temperature in freezer and fresh food section, also pressing on any buttons on panel don't do anything...... fresh food section is warm....

gary for model number ZFSB26DRHSS
Answer:

Hi Gary, Thank you for your question. If the display and touch panel are not working and the fresh food section is too warm, you will need to check the touchpad and display board, the main electronic control board, the temperature sensor, the defrost heater, the evaporator fan motor, the light switch and the condenser fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Fan makes pumping noise like it's struggling to run.Both freezer and fridge sides will get warm ( freezer side thaws) than go back to normal.It's done it few times over last few weeks.Any ideas?Thanks

Ron for model number GSS25QGTABB
Answer:

Hi Ron, Thank you for your question. Based on what you described, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the temperature sensor, the electronic control board, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the run capacitor, the condenser fan motor, and the evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

The power went off and when it came back on the lights inside the refrigerator come on, but the refrigerator does not work. The front panel does not light up and nothing will function. Do you have any suggestions?

Landis for model number Gss23wstass
Answer:

Hello Landis, Thanks for your question. Your issue is likely due to a faulty electronic control board. We would recommend replacing it. I hope this helps.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I have a GE side by side that stop working.Compressor don't run, usually you can hear when compressor turn on also the discharge line of compressor is cold, what do you think is the problem? Every thing else is working inside light front control all works condenser fan works.

Rick for model number GSS25WSTISS
Answer:

Hi Rick, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Overload/Start Relay Combination,PartSelect Number PS1020294 and the Run Capacitor,Part Number: PS11764031 with a Ohms Meter. These parts helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature to keep things frozen in your freezer. Hope this helps!

Question:

Was having issues with the fridge/freezer leaking small pools of water on the floor. Learned that it could be due to the defrost plug icing over. Before i could get to it the freezer stopped freezing. Hired a GE repairman to come out and all he could say was “system bad” well we knew that. Any thoughts? And could it be the thermostat? If so is the thermostat separate from the control board? He said compressor was running, could be compressor not pumping, bad gas leak, restriction on system.

Chris for model number WR55X10942
Answer:

Hi Chris, Thank you for your question. If the refrigerator is leaking pools of water onto the floor, The drain hole for the water inside the refrigerator may be clogged with debris or water has frozen over the drain hole and is not allowing the water to drain out into the evaporator pan under the refrigerator. You will need to flush the hole with warm water and clean the drain hole of the debris. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Have GE side by side freezer/frig. After installing your mother board it unit again warmed up after 5 days both sides with frost on back of freezer. Compressor & evaporator fan working. Which part do i now need. Thank you

Dean for model number GSL25KGRBBS
Answer:

Hi Dean, Thank you for your question. It sounds like you will want to check your defrost heater and your defrost thermostat to see if they are working correctly. You could test both of these parts with a multi meter meter to be sure. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

I have no light in the panel board where shows the temperature install new board will this take care of such?

Linton for model number PDS20SBSBLSS
Answer:

Hi Linton, Thank you for your question. It should be this part that would fix that issue. I hope this helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

My fridge has stopped working, the compressor and fan do not kick on. Things i've tried already: I've shaken the relay, no rattling sounds. Tested the wires that come from the starter relay, no voltage. Tested the 3 compressor prongs that are on the motherboard and i have power to all of them. No power from fan wires when i tested them. Could this be a motherboard issue?

Tim for model number GSL25JFPABS
Answer:

Hi Tim, Thank you for your question. It does sound like it could be your control board that is the issue. You may also want to test the thermistors in your appliance as well. It could be that they are not working and so your compressor does not know that it should be turning on. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Our ice dispenser and water dispenser stopped working and there is a clicking sound i unplugged the wires from the board can it stay unplugged until the new board is installed

Robert
Answer:

Hi Robert, Thank you for your inquiry. You should be able to leave the board unplugged until until the new one is plugged in. Please also refer to your owners manual for further instructions. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Me GE refrigerator is stuck in show room mode after a power outage. As instructed i have in unplugged the unit and plugged it back in several times for as much as an hour. Do i have a bad mother board?

Thompson for model number gsc23ksta ss
Answer:

Hi Thompson, Thank you for your inquiry. The electronic control board fixes the issue the majority of the time, but there are some other parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the capacitor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload/start relay, the temperature sensor, the recess door spring, the dc condenser fan motor, the dispenser solenoid assembly, the water filter, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the power cord and the ice maker. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My appliance continues to dispense water or ice unless i have the lock button turned on. What is my problem?

Scott for model number PSC23MSWASS
Answer:

Hi Scott, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your door dispenser solenoid, you should also test your ice maker as well. If both of those parts are checking out fine, it may be your board that is the issue. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Hi--the compressor fan motor keeps slowing down causing the compressor to run hot. When the rpm's go down it squeals like a bad bearing but at full voltage no noise any ideas?

David for model number GSS25WGPJBB
Answer:

Hi David, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like you may need to replace your compressor fan motor if it is giving you trouble like that. The only other part that you may want to check would be your electronic board. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Is there a way to test if the relay in the mother board that turns on heater defrost is working ? I tested the heater manually by bypassing it it turns on, but how do I know that it's turning on by itself when needed to defrost.

Carlos for model number GSS25SGMBBS
Answer:

Hi Carlos, Thank you for the question. You can test the board by checking for continuity and resistance with a multi meter. Hope this helps!

Question:

Temp warm in both frig and freezer. Had service out. The compressor, fan and starter relay working. Pulled of panel to check evaporator coils. There was frost on both ends, but not in the middle. They think i need a new compressor. What's your opinion. Not looking to spend $600 to have this done..

Jim for model number PFS22SISBSS
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. I would actually suggest taking a look at all of the temperature sensors inside your fridge and freezer. It could be that you need a new compressor, however you may actually need a new electronic control board. Unfortunately testing that part is difficult. You may have to have your technician come in and test that part or speak with your manufacturer. Sometimes they will have a list of how to troubleshoot parts like your electronic control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

My refrigerator is no longer outputing cold air in both the freezer and the refrigerator. The light comes on(so there is power), but the led that's at the top no longer has power.....i'm thinking it's the mother board??? i did turn off the circuit for a minute then turned it back on with no luck....

shawn miller for model number PSS26SGRB SS
Answer:

Hi Shawn, Thank you for your inquiry. There are a few parts that may be causing this issue. The parts you will need to check are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the capacitor kit, the dc condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Hi. My evaporator froze causing warm air. Found the heating element was damaged and changed it, also changed the defroster sensor and the thermostat sensor. Evaporator still freezing. Is there anything else that has to be changed ? Besides the mother board ? Thanks.

Martin for model number GSS25SGRFSS
Answer:

Hi Martin, Thank you for your inquiry. If the refrigerator section is too warm and you have already replaced the heating element, the defrost sensor and the defrost heater I would recommend trying to replace the evaporator fan motor. You may also wish to check the condenser fan motor as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

The refrigerator side does not get cold enough. It is around 50 and it used to be in the the 32 to 40 range. There is no frost build up on the evaporator. The evaporator fan is running. The damper between the freezer and refrigerator is fully open. Freezer has a temp of -5. There are no obstructions that i can see. Does the evaporator fan speed up and slow down to force more air into the refrigerator side or is it all done with the damper?

Carl for model number DSS25PFMCWW
Answer:

Hi Carl, Thank you for your inquiry. The fan should only run when your compressor is running. It sounds like you might want to check both your defrost thermostat and the temperature sensors inside of your refrigerator section. You can test both of those parts with a multi-meter to check and see if they are working. You can also check your fan physically to see if there is any ice build up stopping the fan from moving, and you can also test your evaporator fan motor with that same multi-meter to see if it is working. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Recently had both sides warm up. Found condenser fan motor stuck. Replaced. Operated correctly for 4 days. Now no cooling. Condenser fan not working and compressor not working. Compressor not hot or warm. Is this problem likely to be motherboard or something else. Thanks

Richard for model number ZFSB26DRDSS
Answer:

Hi Richard, Thank you for your inquiry. If there is no cooling in the refrigerator or freezer section there are a few parts that may fix the issue. The parts that may fix this issue are the temperature sensor, the defrost thermostat, the electronic control board, the defrost heater and bracket assembly, the capacitor, the condenser fan motor, the evaporator fan motor, the overload switch or the door gasket. For the electrical parts I would recommend testing them with a multimeter to verify the continuity of each part and to see which one is causing the issue. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 4.0 / 5.0, 144 reviews What's this?
 

29 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Michael from Otsego, MN

Water & ice disspenser quite working

first replace the solenoid behind the front display. than replace the mother board on the back side of the fridge due to a relay being burned out on it.

GE Wanted $300 + to come out and do the repair.

With partsselect and a little time I cut that cost in half.

Thank you,

Mike

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

30 of 45 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: MARCELLA from FAIRDALE, KY

Freezer was not cold enough to keep food frozen or make ice

I am a single mom of two with limited funds. I had a repairman come out and find the problem and give an estimate. We were told that it was the evaporator fan motor and and the main control board. The repair would cost $400 and no guarantee. So I checked the cost of parts and it was $200 so for no guarantee I figured why not try it myself and possibly save $200. So I ordered the parts from partselect. Even though I paid the cheapest postage they arrived the next day. So from what I read and saw this would be a piece of cake. Well let me just say if the freezer section was gutted to begin with it might not have been that big of a deal. As it was getting to the top screws of the panel that covers the evaporator fan required the removal of the icemaker and all. I am not a tall woman nor am I a thin woman and fitting my body in that small freezer section was not easy. There were times that I had to have my teenagers reach a long arm in and hold a part up for me. After that I discovered that the fan I had purchased only had 4 wires. The one from my old fan had 6. I discovered that 2 of the wires went to some sort of sensor. Long story short I rigged it. I was able to remove the 2 prongs for the sensor and insert them into the empty holes on the new fan harness. It wasnt easy. I have limited tools too and I wont even get into how I did it. They did not fit the greatest so I used the electrical tape to cover the whole connection. I put the whole thing back together and debated on trying it without putting in the main board but I decided to trust the repairman this time and go for it. Getting to the main board was no big deal. But what disturbed me was the main board I held in my hands did not look exactly like the main board I was about to take out. I watched the video 3 times my how easy it looked. I then read the directions that came with it. It talked about removing a pin and cutting a wire. Well I about had a stroke worrying. I finally found the serial # on my frig and thankfully mine was not on the list. However the directions did still say something about if there wasnt a wire in pin 2 proceed to step 3. Well I had a wire in pin 2. So it was confusing. My serial # wasnt one of the models #'s given but I did have a wire in pin 2. I just took a chance and trusted the serial #'s and ignored the rest of it. I plugged the wires on the new board one at a time. Put the cover back on and prayed as I plugged it in. A soft purr began. It was running. The freezer was around 60 degrees. I put a room thermometer in to make sure it was going down. It kept going down. Around 3 hours after I finished there was a loud noise from the freezer. It had made ice something it had not done in months. I stayed awake most of the night watching and listening to it. It got down in the single digits I was afraid that maybe it would never shut off. It finally shut off as I was making the kids breakfast the next morning. Of course I was worried that it would not restart. So I opened the freezer and fanned in room air. It worked. Since then we have purchased no more dry ice or regular ice. We bought a tub of ice cream and more than one day of school lunch stuff at a time. Bottom line it works. Thanks to everyones post and to partselect for the video. I hope that I never have to do it again though.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Leonard from Keller, TX

Main circuit board wouldn't allow the compressor to come on

Removed old circuit board and replaced with new

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Herbert from Sunriver, OR

Frozen water filter and food in fresh food side

Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.

When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.

Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.

Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.

Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Stephen from Spring, TX

"moaning myrtle" syndrome. Refrigerator makes a whooing sound for hours at a time

Checked the internet for reports of similar problems and concluded that it was probably the main control board. Not being particularly handy, I would never have attempted to change the board myself if I had not read the comments and instructions from people on this site. Thanks.

The job was as straight forward as others have described. The only time I had a problem was pushing in the white tab to be able to pull the old board out. That was a bit of a fiddle.

The only thing I found different was the grounding wire. On the original board, this wire was at the bottom of the board and hooked into a wire that ran into the refrigerator. On the new board, the wire was at the top of the board and had a metal loop on it. If I understand it correctly, with the new grounding system the wire is pushed into the space above the board. Then when the back plate is reattached the metal loop makes contact with it , thus grounding the refrigerator.
I chose to run the grounding wire through the original wire into the refrigerator. That meant cutting off the metal loop, slicing in an extra piece of wire to connect the grounding wire on the board to the grounding wire into the refrigerator.

I also now use a surge suppressor for the refrigerator. The “Moaning Myrtle” syndrome started after Hurricane Ike. I suspect the surge when the power was restored damaged the control board. And as so many people seem to have this “Moaning Myrtle” problem, I suspect the control board has little or no surge protection.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Customer: John from Milford, UT

Fridge wouldn't cool, frozen food thawed

First my wife and i took the panel off the back, unscrewed the old mainboard, unplugged all the switches from it and prayed that the new one would work. We were without a fridge for 2 weeks beginning 2 days before Christmas!!!!! Gingerly, we put the new board in place, screwed it into the fridge, connected the switches, attached the ground wire, and held our breath as we plugged it back in. Within seconds, the familiar sound of water filling the icemaker was hear and there were cheers all around!!!

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

14 of 19 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: John from Halethorpe, MD

2 problems: Ice dispenser dead and water dispenser dead

From Google to PartsSelect. Reading the forum, the consensus was that to fix the nonworking dispensers the main refrigerator motherboard had to be replaced. I ordered it which is easy to do because the diagrams show all the parts clearly. Great website. I also ordered the front trim piece because I had snapped one of the prongs holding it on. They arrived quickly. The trim just snaps on the front which takes a few seconds. The motherboard which is just a circuit board, even came with replacement instructions. It takes a few minutes to wheel the refrigerator out, then take off the back panel (3 screws), unplug all the connectors, unsnap the circuit board, snap the new one in, plug the connectors in, reattach the back panel, and wheel the refrigerator back to the wall.

The water dispenser promptly froze up. To make sure that it is not the solenoid valve, unhook the water hose under the freezer door. Pressing in the water dispenser should pump water out of the hose onto the floor. It did for me. Since there is only plastic tubing after that, it has to be clogged with ice. I took a thermocouple, inserted the wire into the water dispenser outlet, it would only go in about 3 inches and displayed 31 F. I took a plastic funnel which slipped onto the end of the outlet and used a blow dryer to heat up the outlet a lot several times. Eventually the ice unfroze and it has been working ever since. I think if this happens again, I'll get a cheap aquarium aerator to pump air, for the hours it might take, through a thin tube (using wire insulation) to the frozen spot to melt the ice.

While the refrigerator was away from the wall, I took off the screws holding the large bottom panel in the back off. This exposes the condenser cooling which visually needed to be cleaned off with a vacuum cleaner. After doing this, it seemed to make the refrigerator run much more efficiently.

The refrigerator has been working perfectly for past month and it makes me so happy.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Paul from Troy, NY

Freezer and fridg would not hold the temp correctly. Getting too warm

I had Sears comre and check it out. They wanted $188. for the part and wanted $211 to put it in. They had the part in the truck. The fridg is a GE Profile and only 2 years old. Told them to forget it. Took me literally less than 10 minutes. They did a diagnostics, cost me $77. they told me the problem. I ordered the part here. It came in 3 days and the directions included were awesome. straight forward. Nice to know there is a place to go to avoid getting the shaft from appliance giants. Thank You !

The details: removed the 3 screws, took a picture of the board, didn't need it, unplugged the 6 plugs. pushed 3 clipds holding the board, unscrewed the ground, removed the board, lined up the 3 clips and snapped the new board in place, replugged the plugs and screwed in the ground. Plug the fridg in, done. Literally that easy.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Joe from Redlands, CA

Motherboard burned out

I ordered the part on Sunday and had it by Tuesday. It only took a few minutes to install. Basically, I unplugged the unit and removed the cover over the motherboard with a nutdriver. The wires were easy to unplug and reinstall. There was no way to incorrectly install since they could only fit in the correct position. I reinstalled the panel pluged it back in and now the fridge is working great.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Luther from Navarre, FL

Freezer thawing then re-freezing

The refrigerator was staying in defrost too long allowing the temperature to rise to the point that part of the ice (probably some of the food too) to melt then re-freeze. I first changed out the temp sensor and thermostat because I wanted to try the cheap stuff first but that didn't fix it, I should have gone with the mainboard first as it was the most likely cause. After putting in the new mainboard in the thing has worked perfectly since. The board was extremely easy to change, take the metal cover off with a nut driver. Carefully unplug the wires from old board and remove the board. The board is mounted on some plastic standoffs that expand after passing through the board, some of these came out while i was disconnecting the wires but some were there to stay until I figured out that I needed to squeeze the top of them to release the board. After getting the old board out just put the new one on the standoffs and connect the wires. Put the cover back on and DONE!

NOTES: The new board had some extra connectors that my old one did not, but the correct connectors were still in the old locations. The instructions that came with the board did talk about making some modifications to the refrigerator wiring on certain models, but that didn't apply to me. If I remember right the models requiring modification were all bottom freezer type. But even if you do have to do this the instrucions looked easy, just cut a couple of wires, no splicing or anything.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Robert from Yulee, FL

It started out with the door buttons not working and then the timer stopped working so it wouldn't allow the fan or the compressor to run replaced the board and everything started working

Took the three screws out of the cover, took the six plugs off of the board and removed board.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Difficult
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: David from Boca Raton, FL

Ice dispenser not working

As it turned out much of the electronics is driven by 13.5 volts off the Main Control Board. The Ice Dispenser caused the problem because it over currented the depleted board power. You could hear a clicking noise from the board which was the main relay short cycling and not staying energized. While waiting for the replacement board I unpluged the condenser fan which is a DC motor and uses the Board power. In place of that fan I use a small table top fan to keep the condenser cool. As it turned out I only needed it for 3 days because Parts Select did a super quick job of delivering the new board. Thanks for the super service!!!!!! Removal of the board only required unpluging the electrical connections squezing the retaining board pins with pliers and pulling the board out, pushing on the new board and connecting the electrical plugs. If the board locks like mine did, just unplug the main board power plug, let the memory clear and replug the power plug. The unit should then start and run with no problems.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Brian from Woodland, CA

Water dispenser wouldn't work and refrigerator made an almost ghost like howling sound. Replacement main board fixed the noise. I purchased the replacement board for the ice and water (front of the refer) but haven't installed it yet.

I watched the on live video. Piece of cake!

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

9 of 14 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: rafael from Pompano Beach, FL

Water wouldn't come out and wouldn't work

After receiving the parts from you guys, by the way, supper fast shipping, next day, installing them took no more than 10 minutes, put the cover plug it in, and fresh nice water coming out. Next day, the ice tray was full of beautiful ice cubes.

So supper happy that I didn't have to buy a new refrigerator and I was able to fix it for under $300. I hope it can last now at least another 10 years.

Thanks

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Electronic Board
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: John from Lakeland, FL

Refrigerator and freezer would not cool down.

First, we called Sears Repair and had a technician come to our home. He stated the motherboard had gone bad probably due to a power surge (we had no surge protector on the appliance). His price for repair was $465.00. We opted to go online for the part and found it for $165.00 through PartSelect.com. It was a very simple procedure of removing the old and installing the new. A few turns with the nut driver to uncover the part, a few tugs with the pliers to disconnect and voila!.. The fridge was back to cooling in no time.

Help other customers find the most helpful instructions.

Were these instructions helpful?   

Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS12069099
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942P
Brand Model Number Description
General ElectricA4425GDTABBRefrigerator
General ElectricA4425GDTAWWRefrigerator
General ElectricA4425GDTBBBRefrigerator
General ElectricA4425GDTBWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPACCRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPAWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPCCCRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPCWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPDCCRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPDWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPECCRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPEWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPHCCRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25GFPHWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFRFWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFRJWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTAWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTBWWRefrigerator - T Series
General ElectricBSS25JFTCWWRefrigerator - T Series
General ElectricBSS25JFTDWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTEWWRefrigerator - T Series
General ElectricBSS25JFTGWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTHWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTIWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTJWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JFTNWWRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JSRFSSRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JSRJSSRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JSTASSRefrigerator
General ElectricBSS25JSTBSSRefrigerator - T Series