Part Location Diagram of W11035878 Whirlpool Seal and Bearing
See part 38 in the diagram
Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Seal and Bearing
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Seal and Bearing W11035878

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6 Reviews

Rated by 15 customers 

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.

$ 69.34
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PartSelect Number PS11773177
Manufacturer Part Number W11035878
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Seal and Bearing Specifications

This front panel seal kit doesn't include the plastic retainers, reuse the old retainers. No glue is needed, the seal stretches to fit.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Seal and Bearing

Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Seal and Bearing
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Marks left on clothes
This part works with the following products:
Dryer.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag.
Part# W11035878 replaces these:
3406129, 692493, W10568603, W10663510, W10803476, W10887344, WPW10663510
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 15 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
My old dryer drum had become noisy and loose and prone to getting stuck while running.
I replaced the front seal and bearing, split ring bearing and rear seal. It was technically pretty easy. The thing to do is watch the videos provided by PartsSelect AND go to Youtube and watch a couple of others. Once you see several guys do the job and look over your own machine, it all becomes obvious. Some tips: Work cleanly, you will be dealing with dryer dust and shredded gasket material. Use a vacuum and put down newspaper or a drop cloth. While you have it apart, clean the inside of the machine, and check the other moving parts (eg, rear bearing and drive belt). The glue for the rear drum seal is runny and dries fast so work reasonably quickly. I held the seal on with clothes pins and binder clips and glued about a foot of seal at a time. Everything else goes on easily. They dryer is like a new machine-good for another 30 years.
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • Ed from SEBEKA, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was screeching and squealing when running
I removed the top panel, then the front panel.
Removed the belt and the drum.
Saw what I needed to replace. Ordered the parts then put back together. It was a really easy job.
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Idler Pulley Assembly Rear Drum Felt Seal Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Nathan from ALTOONA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would run with no heat
I watched all the videos with Steve. He was very helpful in his presentation of the repairs. Due to the age of the dryer every thing was replaced and was very easy to do. Thank you Steve and PartSelect for making these repairs possible and easy
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Idler Pulley Assembly SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Rear Drum Felt Seal Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing
  • Gary from MOUNDSVILLE, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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the drum was moving back and forth and taking longer to dry chloths.
I just watched all your how to videos before I ordered the parts and after I saw how easy it was I just ordered and followed the instructions.
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Maintenance Kit Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • ludwig from EDISON, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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noise due to worn drum wheels
fliped up top, removed 2 5/16 screws from face and removed. removed drum and belt. removed two piece ring bearing and removed front seal from front face. installed new seal and split bearing the way others were removed. reassembled dryer in reverse order.
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing
  • Derek from Wyoming, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0 of 1 people found this instruction helpful.
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black streaking on white clothing
the repair was straight forward. I am a machine shop owner so I have a little knowledge about mechanics.the repair took 2 and 1/2 hours due to cleaning lint from everything that I could reach and removing all of the excellent factory adhesive. If someone could do this repair in less than one hour properly. .
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • Walter from Memphis, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Brown Lines on Clean Clothes coming out of Dryer
Removed the top and front panel, removed the dryer drum. Removed the worn out rear drum seal. I scraped and sanded the old glue residue from the rear of the drum. I used "0000" steel wool to clean the "brown seal residue" from the rear panel where the new seal on the drum would rub/seal against the rear panel. I used spring clamps to hold the seal in place prior to appling the glue. The glue was applied to the drum/seal and allowed to dry 30-45 min. I replaced the front drum seal (some of the other discussions in your forum had good hints on replacing this seal, better than the printed instructions), also replaced the belt and applied a light amout of lubrication (3 in 1 oil) to the idler pulley and the drum rollers. The dryer runs smoothly and quietly and most importantly no more brown streaks on clean clothes.
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Seal and Bearing Rear Drum Seal Kit
  • John from Semmes, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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drum stopped
10 min. job, easy to do / two screws top and two inside front / remove old parts install new.
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Seal and Bearing
  • carl from westbrook, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer making loud squealing noise when running
The (front) bearing and seal are not metal parts but a fabric and and mesh like material. It is somewhat like a fabric belt made to hold up a pair of trousers. The belt sits in a channel that goes around the door on the inside of the front panel. To get to the combination bearing/seal you remove two screws that are located under the cover of the lint trap. These have to be removed to lift the top. Then using a putty knife or screw driver you must pop the top (which snaps down on plastic clips) at the front corners. The top lifts up and folds back on hinges. The front is attached to the sides by one screw on each side near the top. A nut driver will remove then easily. Once the 2 screws are removed lift the front panel about 2 inches to disengage the front panel from the clips that hold the front attached to the sides near the bottom. When you remove the front panel the dryer drum will literally fall out so you want to get hold of it before pulling the front panel away so it isn't damaged and and doesn't damage the gas burner assembly which is under the drum to the left side. The drum is very light. I supported it with an empty shoe box while the front was off.
Once the front is off you'll see the bearing/seal on the inside of the front panel and it will be obvious how to remove the old one and place the new one. There are three pegs on the front panel that receive the three holes in the fabric bearing/seal. The seal will stay in place while you remove the shoe box and put the front cover back on. The drum fits over the seal like a lid on a jar and just slides on the fabric when the drum rotates. Low tech but the drums slides easily on the bearing material and seems to last a long time.

I also did the rear dryer seal. This is similar to the front. To do this you follow the procedure above but to get to the real seal you will have to remove the drum. It will fall out on its own if the front panel is removed. The drive belt goes around the drum. It is about 3/8th of and wide and just wraps around the drum without any teeth or channels or anything. Let the belt fall to the bottom as you lift the drum forward and out of the cabinet. The drum is light. Just put it on the floor and strip off the old rear seal which is glued on. It too is fabric. Clean up the drum a little and fit the new seal on the drum. Once the seal is on the drum you can lift the edge of the fabric seal and glue the fabric flange to the drum. This becomes pretty obvious once you have the seal on the drum. If you put the glue on the drum first you will make a mess. Put the seal on properly and the lift the edge to apply the adhesive all the way around. The adhesive sets enough in a hour or so. Put the drum back in and replace the front panel. Don't forget the drive belt. It goes around the drive motor that is located on the bottom of the dryer on the right, around or over an idler pulley (my older model does not have a idler wheel but rather a bracket with a "slide" that the belt runs over that keeps sufficient tension on the belt to drive the drum. If your belt falls off the motor and the idler pulley falls out it may be confusing how the belt goes in. My idler bracket is held in slots on the bottom of the cabinet merely by the tension of the belt - no screws or anything. I suggest that you put the belt around the drum first, then the drive motor. You will have slack in the belt and it becomes a little more obvious how the idler pulley (which is mounted on spring steel) goes in and takes up that slack and keeps modest tension on the belt. The rubber side of the belt goes against the drum, the leathery side is the outside.
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Rear Drum Felt Seal
  • Stephen from Springfield, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Front seal was ripped.
Step one: UNPLUG THE 220V LINE!
Removed the 2 screws on top under the lint door then flipped up the top. Next I unclipped the wire harness at the front and disconnected the 2 wires to the door switch and flipped the harness out of the way. Then I popped off the kick panel. Next, I removed the (4) 9mm screws holding the front panel on. The 2 lower screws only need to be loosened and the panel lifted off. Note the location of the door springs at the bottom. These springs can be reinstalled easily through the kick panel after you reinstall the front panel.
Next I removed the remnants of the old seal from the front panel but left the 3 plastic clips in place. The seal wraps around the perimeter of the panel and is held in place by the lip of the opening. The extra flap is then folded back so that the folded edge is toward the dryer drum and away from the front of the panel. The sketch in the instructions is not helpful!
Next, reinstall the front panel. As you set it onto the lower screws, you may need to lift the drum slightly to fit the panel into the drum opening. Tighten the 4 screws then reattach the 2 door springs. Test the operation by turning the drum counterclockwise by hand. Check to make sure the rear seal has not been displaced or damaged. That seal is actually glued into place. If it turns smoothly, snap the kick panel back on and reinstall the wire harness. Flip down the top and reinstall the 2 screws at the lint tray on top. Plug it in and give it a spin!.
Note, While you have it open, you'll want to use your shop vac and clean all the lint and pocket change out of the machine. You might as well take off the back panel and clean up in there and in the vent pipe too.
I didn't know if I needed a new belt but ordered one anyway. The old one turned out to be pretty well shot. After I had the front panel removed, replacing the belt is very simple. There is an idler pulley underneath that is under tension. Just push on the idler until the belt is loose. Switch the new one into place and you are done.
Other Parts Used:
Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Seal and Bearing
  • Neil from Southgate, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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7 questions answered by our experts.
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Cheryl
June 20, 2019
The seal on my dryer is coming apart, however it looks different than this one and i don't believe it is attached with screws... it is silver and it seems as though it was affixed with glue or something. i am worried if i order this replacement part, first i may not be able to easily remove the old seal, and second that i will not be able to attach the new part. thanks.
For model number WGD4815EW1
PartSelect logo
Hello Cheryl, thank you for writing. This is the correct replacement for your model. Replacement parts are sometimes updated by the manufacturer and may be different in appearance but will have the same functionality. We hope this helps.

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David
September 21, 2021
I don't just need the clips, I need the whole plastic retainer is this available?
For model number LGR5636PQ1
PartSelect logo
Hello David, Thank you for the question. Checking the parts list and the How to Video, there is no Plastic Retainer listed for this Seal and Bearing kit. If you are referring to the Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing, you will need the PartSelect Number PS334199. We hope this helps!

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Jon
April 24, 2019
I want to replace the front felt drum seal on my Kenmore dryer (circa '80s), but the seal on my dryer is different than the one offered by partselect. My seal appears to be felt around the entire circumference, whereas the replacement part is only felt on the upper portion and fabric on the lower portion. Will the replacement part work on my dryer?
For model number Kenmore Dryer 110.86873100
PartSelect logo
Hello Jon, thank you for inquiring. Replacement parts are usually updated by the manufacturer and may appear different than the originals but have the same functionality. This Seal and Bearing part PS11773177 is the correct replacement for your model.

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Jack
August 12, 2019
Dryer starting to squeak off and on when running,what part would you recommend to address this problem !
For model number WGD4800XQ5
PartSelect logo
Hi Jack, thank you for your question. There are a number of parts that you should check. You should check your bearings, your felt seal, belt, rollers, and pulley to see if they need to be replaced at all. Those parts can wear down over time. If those parts are fine then it might be your motor that is the issue. Good luck with your repair.

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David
September 20, 2021
Are the front seal/bearing plastic retainers available? If so what is the p/n?
For model number LGR5636PQ1
PartSelect logo
Hello David, Thank you for your inquiry. We show that the plastic clips are only available as part of the retainer clip kit, part# PS334162. Hope this helps.

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Dolores
October 5, 2021
The silver seal on the front door has frayed. What is our replacement part number?
For model number WED4850HW0
PartSelect logo
Hello Delores, Thank you for your inquiry. We have researched the model number you have provided, and the seal on the front door is part# PS11766744. We hope this helps.

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Derek
January 21, 2023
States that it is the front bearing seal, is there a different seal for the rear or can I just buy for both front and rear?
For model number WED49STBW0
PartSelect logo
Hello Derek, Thank you for your inquiry. Researching the model number that you have provided, we show the rear drum seal is part# PS8691753. We hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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Manufacturer Part Number: W11035878
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