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★★★★★
★★★★★
Th9omas M - June 3, 2019
Verified Purchase
very easy
Reviewed installation procedure on u-tube. Went in very easy. The part was an exact fit.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.4 / 5.0, 4 reviews.
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The inside coil on the dual burner was not working
This is a slide-in range, so I: 1. Turned off the circuit breaker for the range. The range is hard-wired, so can't just be unplugged. I determined the clock on the range went off. 2. Removed 4 screws holding the front control panel to the cooktop. Removed 2 screws from each side panel into the cooktop. Removed 4 screws from the
... Read morerear panel holding the cooktop. 3. With my assistant (my wife) lifted the cooktop and tilted it so that I could access the underside. 4. Used an iPad to take photos from several angles of the wire connections from each burner control. Printed the one showing the connections on the dual burner control. 5. Removed the 4 screws holding the sheet metal support for the dual burner and one of the other burners. Released the spring steel retainers holding the dual burner. Removed the burner. 6. Used the iPad again to take photos of the connections to the dual burner, and printed it. 7. Removed all the wire connections to the burner. Checked continuity from the center (common) terminal to each of the other terminals. Determined that in fact the inside coil was open (burned out). 8. Removed the two screws holding the spring clip retainers on the old burner. Matched the old and new burners to determine where the spring clips should go. Drilled 2 small holes in the base of the new burner and screwed the clips from the old burner on the new one. 9. Now the tricky part: The new burner didn't have the exact same limiter and heat sensor probe as the old one. After several false starts, we were able to barely make out the terminal letter/number designations on the control and match them to the same letter/numbers on the new burner. It required a magnifier and a strong flashlight to read these engraved markings. 10. Made the connections on the burner. I used a pair of long-nosed pliers to carefully pull the connections off the spade terminals, and attch them on the new burner. 11. Mounted the burner to the sheet metal support using the spring clips previously installed. 12. Re-attached the 4 screws holding the burner support to the cooktop. 13. Carefully replaced the cooktop onto the range, paying special attention to not pinching any of the wires, and making sure all the wires, from all the burners were still connected. 14. Replaced all 12 screws holding the cooktop to the range. 15. Turned on the power, and checked all burners, including the new one, to see if they were opetating properly. YAY! They all worked!
It must be noted that we had to call a repairman to troubleshoot our installation the first time. We had reversed two of the wires to the new burner, because of the difference between the old and the new limiter connections. The engraved markings in the porcelain were very difficult to see. The instructions that came with the new burner never addressed this issue, and instead had very confusing (and worthless) instructions about replacing the limiter from the old burner to the new on. (This was not possible, anyway).
After the repairman left, we discovered the front burner that had been working, no longer was. With our newfound experience, we repeated the previous steps to take the range apart and discovered one of the wires had become disconnected from that burner. We re-connected it, re-attached the cooktop, and everything worked.
One telltale indicator that we had mixed up the connections on the burner, was the red "hot' warning light on the range top came on as soon as we restored power, even though no burners had been on. I should mention that the dual burner "worked" a couple of times even with the reversed connections, but then failed to work any more.
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Art from CINCINNATI, OH
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
3 of 3 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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outer ring of dual radiant burner doesn't work
Thanks for the previous viewer's tip, disconnect power, pushed the cook top out of the counter and used a wood block for the support. Unscrew the smooth top from the burner, remove old and plug in the new one. Connect power, test OK. Put everything back.
Qiong from Mckinney, TX
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
1 of 5 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Element not heating
This was a countertop mounted cooktop. The hardest part of the repair was getting the cooktop out of the hole and separating the glass top from the burner box. It is highly recomended that you have two people to seperate the top from the burner box. Be sure you turn off the breaker to the cooktop first before you do any work. One time sav
... Read moreer is once you have the top sperated from the box use 2- 10"-12" pieces of 1x2 or 2x4 to prop the top open. This will eleminate the need to disconnect the power leads (be sure the breaker is OFF). If you are not electrically inclined mark the color of the wires to the corrosponding terminals on the new element BEFORE you remove them from the old element. The element that I replaced was the dual heat element. I ended up having to change 2 of the terminal ends on the wiring harness becacuse they were too small for the new element. Carefully remove the wires from the old elenent using needle nose pliers and remove the old element by removing the 2 screws that hold the element to the hold down clips, then loosen the clip mounting screws & remove the element. Change terminals if needed & reassmble in reverse order. Once I got it reassembled with a couple of the top mounting screws in, I turned on the breaker and tested for proper operation. Breaker OFF, finish reassembly and remount. You may want to consider replacing foam gasket before remounting. Good luck... R. Moore
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Richard from Weatherford, TX
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
8 of 9 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Outer Element stopped working
Opened the Cooktop. Hardest part was removing the cooktop. The heating element was broken, very hard to see.
Remove 2 clips and install in new element. Great oppurtunity to clean the unit.
Ashok from Los Altos Hills, CA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
5 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
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6 questions answered by our experts.
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Dale
November 8, 2018
5 burner Jenn-Air cooktop, right rear, 8"dia. Dual burner element, is this the correct part # ?
For model number CCE3531B
Hi Dale, thank you for your question. Unfortunately no. This part is the largest burner on your appliance. The 8" burner is part 6 on the diagram. Unfortunately that part has been discontinued by the manufacturer and the manufacturer has not provided an authorized substitute. The only other thing that I could think of would be to contact your manufacturer and see if they have another part from a different model that will work with yours. If they do have another part that will work, get the part number so that you can search it on our website to see the cost of the part. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
The model number listed above looks correct or it could be rc8540xbb4 (its hard to determine if the #6 is a 6 or a 5). The serial number of the unit is x65201024. I have a Whirlpool electric built in ceramic cooktop.The front left burner/element (dual size) and the rear right burner/element (dual size) will not turn off automatically when the control knob is correctly turned to the off position. I have to tap on the burner knob for it to shutoff. What are my repair options for this issue? Are there parts available to make the repairs?
For model number RC8640XBB4
Hello Henry, thank you for your question. If the burners will not shut off on their own, and taping the knob will shut it off, the burner switch will need to be replaced. The switch is used on both dual elements, and the part number is PS11740884. Please enter the part number into the site for current price and availability. Good luck with your repair!
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Kate
June 20, 2019
Why does only part of the element work?
Hi Kate, thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause this issue specifically. You will need a multi meter to be able to test the parts. The first part you will want to check is your radiant element. It should be reading between 0 - 120 ohms to be working correctly. The other part to check would be your infinite (or surface burner) switch. When you remove that part from the appliance, connect each probe from your multi meter to the prongs and then turn the switch to an on position. If you get no continuity then the switch is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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David
August 28, 2019
I have the Jenn-Air model CCE3531B, where the back left burner is the dual element. Is this the correct replacement?
For model number CCE3531B
Hi David,
Thank you for your question. Yes, this would be the left rear element. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jim
November 20, 2019
Are the limiter jumper wires required looks like they are because 2 terminal connections looks like they're switched in the limiter schematic.
For model number rc8640xbb4
Hi Jim, thank you for your question. You should already have these wires in your appliance from your old burner. You would only need to replace them if you do not have them. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Max
January 17, 2018
My range has large burner with a smaller center burner - can be used seperately. The small section burner is no longer working. The range is a glass top. Smooth top. Can this part be replaced?
For model number KERC507EWH1
Hi Max,
Thank you for your question. Yes it can, you would have to replace your entire burner. Here are the part numbers for your burners based on location on your stove: Left Rear: PS2342231, Right Front: PS11745233*, Right Rear: PS11745113*, Left Front: PS11764904. * Unfortunately the right burners have been discontinued by the manufacturer. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
