11757438-1-M-Whirlpool-WPY014874-Screw
Part Location Diagram of WPY014874 Whirlpool Screw
See part NI in the diagram
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
11757438-1-S-Whirlpool-WPY014874-Screw 11757438-2-S-Whirlpool-WPY014874-Screw 11757438-3-S-Whirlpool-WPY014874-Screw Part Location Diagram of WPY014874 Whirlpool Screw
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Screw WPY014874

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PartSelect Number PS11757438
Manufacturer Part Number WPY014874
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Screw Specifications

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Troubleshooting
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer, Washer Dryer Combo, Air Conditioner.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, Amana, Speed Queen, Crosley.
Part# WPY014874 replaces these:
AP6024088, 014874, 14874, 2-11880, 211880, 3-10386, 310386, 32671, 56086, 9-11039, 911039, A0258601, A0303501, A0303502, M0216544, R0600031, R0600102, Y014874, Y310386
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 2.7 / 5.0, 6 reviews. What's this?
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Noisy
This is the dryer of a 28 year old Maytag laundry pair. I had replaced the glide kit 8-10 years before. Did them again because they were worn in half again but this time I added the 2 roller kits and the belt, really just guessing. I was surprised how full of dust and lint the inside was, especially the blower fan blades. I ordered the screw because the belt idler pulley assembly was very wobbly and I hoped that was the screw anchoring it to the motor housing was the problem but it wasn't. Turns out the threaded hole in the housing was stripped, due I guess to years of vibration. It was too tight to get a tap and dye in there so I drilled the hole out and replaced the screw with a bolt and nut and lock washer. Before drilling it out I tried a few strands of wire and JB Weld, like the trick with stripped wood holes where you break off toothpicks in the hole and fill with wood glue. But that stripped out too so I drilled and used the bolt. Turned out I didn't need that $7 screw. Probably should have known comparing it to the old one which looked the same after I cleaned it. Anyway, it sounds fine again.
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Other Parts Used:
Screw Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Front Glide Kit Drum Support Roller Kit
  • Dave from CRANBERRY TWP, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person found this instruction helpful.
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Idler pulley arm mounting screw stripped
This should have been a simple repair, but turned out to be time consuming and moderately difficult. I hope these instructions will help anyone who encounters the problems described here.

After a period of the dryer not being used, the idler pulley wheel froze on the shaft of the idler pulley arm, so I needed to replace both parts. After mounting the new wheel and two washers on the new arm and securing with a retaining ring, I went to install this assembly by going in through the small access panel at the rear of the dryer. I slid the belt off the old idler pulley wheel and unhooked the spring from the idler pulley arm; the arm was mounted on a sleeve fastened to the motor bracket by one screw. All that should have been necessary was to back out that screw and replace the old idler pulley assembly with the new one.

That is where the trouble started. Backing out the screw with a socket driver, I found it would go a few turns, then start to bind. I tried turning it in and out to get the threads to engage, but it kept binding. Eventually I gave the screw a hard turn, and then it would turn freely but not move in or out.

Looking on the internet for advice, I found a video that asserts for another model Maytag dryer using the same type of mounting for the idler arm, that there is a design flaw. You can find the video by searching for “Maytag dryer idler pulley defect”. According to the video, the sheet metal screw used to mount the idler pulley arm can gradually loosen due to the pressure and vibration, and begins to “waggle” which eventually damages the threads. I believe this is what happened to my dryer. The video suggests replacing the sheet metal screw with a machine screw and nut for a more durable union.

So now I understood how the screw could be stripped just sitting in the dryer, but that didn’t help me get the screw out. Working through the rear access panel, I tried pulling on the screw head with several types of pliers, pushing the point from behind with a piece of wood while turning the head with a socket driver; eventually I was able to use a pry bar under the screw head and sleeve to apply pressure while turning the head, and with that method the screw backed out. With the screw removed, it could be seen that the threads in the middle part of the thread length were almost completely worn away.

The screw sleeve got somewhat deformed in this process so I ordered a new one, along with an exact replacement sheet metal screw, hoping the threads in the hole were still intact. With the old idler pulley arm now removed, I could transfer the old idler bracket spacer to the new idler pulley arm. When the ordered parts arrived and I tried to mount the idler pulley arm, the new screw would go in only a couple of turns before binding. Rather than risk winding up in the same situation by forcing the screw, I decided to use a machine screw and nut instead.

The original sheet metal screw was a #10. A machine screw the same size would not fit through the hole, and I could not fit my drill into the dryer cabinet in a position to enlarge the hole, so I used a #8 machine screw with a nut and lock washer. First I put some grease on the contact areas of the screw sleeve and idler bracket spacer, then inserted the machine screw through the hole and put the lock washer and nut on the other side of the mounting. The space around the nut is very limited, and most of my tools were too large to hold the nut while the screw was tightened. It was too small for a socket or adjustable wrench, and the clearance from the exhaust duct was too small for the handles of most tools. Eventually, I found a needle nose pliers with short handles that did the job. A thin open end wrench might also work. Then I reconnected the spring and belt to the idler pulley assembly, and closed the access panel. So far the dryer works, but if the #8 screw turns out to be not strong enough, I could get an extension for my drill and enlarge the hole to fit a #10 machine screw and nut.

Looking back on the job, the most difficult part of this repair was removing the damaged screw. This and several other steps might have been a lot easier if I had removed the motor bracket (where the idler pulley arm is mounted) from the dryer and worked outside the cabinet. Part Select has an excellent video “Replacing the Drive Motor” that shows how to do this. It would be a lot of disassembly work, but for someone with good assembly skills could be easier in the long run.

Hopefully most folks out there who replace the idler pulley arm on a dryer will find an easier situation than I did. But for any who have to deal with a stripped mounting screw, I hope this summary will help you resolve it.
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Other Parts Used:
Screw Idler Arm Screw Sleeve
  • Alan from BETHESDA, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeeky dryer
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The parts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
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Other Parts Used:
Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Screw Idler Arm and Shaft Idler Shaft Retaining Ring Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Spring with Rubber Dampener
  • Phil from PROCTORVILLE, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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The drier tumbler stopped spinning, and my wife noticed a burning smell when it ran.
1) Took off the front door of the drier (first unscrewed it in the sides, then lifted the door to lift the hinges up and pulled the door off)
2) Pulled the front panel down and off
3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't
4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it didn't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran.
5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning
6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley.
7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair...
8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :)
9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P)
10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring.
11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!

The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!
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Other Parts Used:
Idler Arm and Shaft Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Screw Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
  • Mark from Shelburne, VT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
40 of 1348 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loose from wear.Caused belt to break
Took off the back and replaced after replacing belt and spring
Other Parts Used:
Screw Idler Arm Screw Sleeve
  • David from Lemont, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
0 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer made loud screeching noise.
After reading all the other repair stories on Partselect, by the way thank you all, I removed the door, then removed the two security hooks that hold the top secure. Then I removed the front panel. I then marked all the screws on the outer door and shroud so I could easily put it back together. I left the all the wires connected and set the shroud and outer door to the side and removed the drum belt and drum. Removed the spring off the idler arm, then using nutdriver, removed the screw that secures the idler arm to the motor. Assembled the new idler arm parts and reversed the process to put it all back together. If I would have replaced the idler arm assembly the same time I replaced the drum support rollers, I wouldn't have had to do this twice! But now I am an expert repair tech on this particular model.
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Other Parts Used:
Idler Arm and Shaft Idler Pulley Wheel and Bearing Idler Pulley Shaft Washer Screw Multi Rib Belt - 91-5/8 Inches Idler Arm Screw Sleeve Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
  • Gene from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!

1 question answered by our experts.
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Barb
February 9, 2024
My picture of idler arm on my old Maytag dryer looks like it is on wrong side?
For model number MDE7658BYW
PartSelect logo
Hello Barb, Thank you for your inquiry. We show on most models, it is usually found on the left hand side with the motor as you are facing the dryer, but it can be on the right side depending on the model. We hope this helps.

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11757438
Manufacturer Part Number: WPY014874
Brand
Model Number
Description
Amana
100A-3PH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
100A-3R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
100A-3RH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
100A-8R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
12E
Freezer
Amana
12F
Freezer
Amana
12G
Freezer
Amana
12H
Freezer
Amana
12J
Freezer
Amana
12JI
Freezer
Hoover
15
Freezer
Amana
150A-3PH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150A-3R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150A-3RH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150A-8R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150C-3R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150C-3RH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150C-8R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
150C-8RH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
15A
Freezer
Amana
15B
Freezer
Amana
15C
Freezer
Hoover
19
Freezer
Amana
19A
Freezer
Amana
19B
Freezer
Amana
19C
Freezer
Amana
200A-3PH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
200A-3R
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
200A-3RH
Air Conditioner - Room
Amana
200C
Air Conditioner - ROOM AIR CONDITIONER
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Screw
$ 8.04
  In Stock
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