Front Load Washer Bellow Door Boot Seal - Gray

9 year old washer started leaking - after inspecting noticed a large hole in the bellow.
The only difficult part was putting the outside band clamp on over the bellow without it slipping out of place - took a few tries. The video was very helpful - I did put hardware into plastic bags based on the steps in the removal for so that I wouldn't forget (or get them mixed up).
I was able to do this project while home from work with a sick kindergartener. Problem started and did the removal the first day ordered the part and it arrived 2 days later - install complete in less than an hour. We went back to school/work with a operating washer by the end of the week! Thank you - it was actually kinda fun and my son bragged to his grandfather that 'he and momma fixed the washer'.

Unplug, remove top and bottom panels using nut driver.
The control panel also must be removed; mine just snapped loose, providing access to the top hex-head screws securing the front panel/door assembly. The gasket/bellows is secured to the front panel and tub with circular clamps. The front panel clamp, a wire loop held tight with a spring, must be removed prior to taking off the front panel/door. I used a wide blade flat head screwdriver to pry it off. The door assembly is rather heavy and awkward as the door swings randomly once removed. It may be helpful to secure it to the frame with duct tape prior to removal. Six screws, three top and three bottom, secure the panel. Once removed, there is access to the clamp securing the back of the bellows to the tub. This one is a larger loop with a screw type tensioner. After removing it, the old gasket can be pulled out.
These gaskets have drainage holes at the bottom which must be in line with the drain hole on the tub. Clean the grooved edge where the gasket sits. It fits inside a channel on the bellows. It’s a snug fit and it helps to lubricate the bellow’s channel with liquid soap. Once it is in place, make sure it’s seated properly-there’s a groove that accepts the clamp-and the drainage holes are positioned over the drain at the tub’s bottom. Replace the clamp in its channel and tighten it with a nut driver or screwdriver.
Replace the front panel/door. Next, clean the channel on the front panel and work the front of the bellows into it’s place on the panel. The sprung front clamp can be difficult.
There are spreader tools made for the job, but I just used two needle-nose pliers to stretch the spring. After the new bellows is installed, reassemble the cabinet. I left the bottom panel off until I ran a test cycle to check for leaks.

My washer is part of a washer/dryer stack and i did not remove the dryer for the repair. I followed a YouTube video that shows the basics of how to do this repair:
1. Remove the spring-compressed outer band. Did this with needle nose pliers. Then removed the bellows from the outside of the frame--really easy.
2. Remove the inner band. Used a stubby philips head screwdriver while pushing the tub inward to get more room.It was awkward, but patience is key. Once that was loose i removed the inner ring then the bellows from the tub.
Total time for removal was maybe 30 min

For the install i took my time and started at the bottom of the tub and pressed the new bellows in the groove making sure it was in properly. Then the ring went on and again, take the time to make sure it's in the groove. Then tighten.
Lastly attache the bellows the the frame of the machine making sure to take your time to properly seat it in the groove.
The most challenging part was getting the outer ring back on. expanding the spring is a challenge. I used just needle-nose pliers to expand it while trying to keep it from slipping off. I believe there is a tool to expand the ring and it's probably worth buying it to make this step easier.
Over all the install took maybe 30-40 min.
Happy i got it fixed. Good luck!

you need to take off the front panel of the washer to do this repair, start at the top cover the bults are in the back, then the bottom panel on the front, then the control panel needs to come off, after all 3 of those are removed you can get to the front panel the door
the door lock also needs to be removed to get this panel off, then a couple small bults at the top of the panel.
once everything is removed you can start take off the old boot.
start with the front boot seal spring clamp using a flat head screwdriver then remove the boot from the inner drum. then the back boot seal clamp will be removed before you can pull the boot off of the washer
installing the new boot I think you should start with inserting the inner seal first then put in a silicone caulking before you pull the outer seal on the inner drum. once that is on re install the clamp and move to the outer seal
this you can use an extra set of hands if someone is around if not it is possible to do it yourself, you will need 3 flat head screw drivers to work the front boot seal spring clamp into place. make sure that is seated well before you start to reinstall the door and other panels
good luck

I followed the instructions in the video (available on the site) and had no problem whatsoever to replace the boot. This video is so detailed that it is difficult to go wrong.
Only caution I would make is that this may prove to be a bit too much if the person has never ever used tools before.