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11750673-1-S-Whirlpool-WPW10225581-Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
11750673-1-S-Whirlpool-WPW10225581-Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat 11750673-2-S-Whirlpool-WPW10225581-Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/GRKTJAOQ.gif

Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat

Your Price

$23.78
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS11750673
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10225581
Manufactured by Whirlpool

If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag, Amana, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef.

This part works with the following products: Refrigerator.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Fridge too warm.
  • Freezer not defrosting.
  • Freezer section too warm.
  • Freezer too cold.
  • Frost buildup.
  • Fridge too cold.
  • Fridge and Freezer are too warm.
  • Fridge runs too long.
  • Too warm.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

Refrigerator is warm, freezer works fine. What parts do. I need

Angela for model number W8txngfwq02
Answer:

Hi Angela, Thank you for the question. When the fresh food section is warm you will need to check a few things. You can start by checking for frost build up in the freezer and on the coils on the back of the appliance. If there is frost build up you may need to replace the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat or the Defrost Heater. If you do not have a frost build up you need to listen to see if the fan at the back of the freezer is kicking on. The Evaporator Fan circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated into the fresh food section If the fan is not running then the air will not circulate. It is also a good idea to check the gasket around the door. If there are gaps or if it is not sealing properly it will let warm air in. You can turn a flash light on and put it inside the fridge and turn the lights off in the kitchen (evenings are best) and watch for any light coming through around the gasket. If everything else checks out you may need to replace the Thermostat. This thermally operated switch, controls the compressor circuit and therefore the temperature of the fresh food compartment. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I have removed the bi-metallic defrost thermostat from the coils in freezer and measured open with a resistance check. What should i read at ambient temperature? What is the normal "shelf state" reading on this thermostat? Thanks

jim
Answer:

Hello Jim, thank you for contacting us. If you test the defrost therm at room temperature it should be an open circuit. If you put the thermostat in some ice cold water, after a few mins you will hear a click, if you test it again it should be a closed circuit. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Refrigerator and freezer are intermittent. I have replaced the relays on the compressor because the compressor would not run. It works but now sometimes the freezer will stop cooling for too long and water will drip. Also the compressor will come on for a short time and turn back off sometimes after more than one try it will stay on and the freezer will go down to -10 or 15 degree f and may work of for several hours. When it is not cooling properly I think the ice maker is also off. I suspect the defrost timer and maybe the thermostat. Is there a thermostat other than the defrost thermostat that controls when the compressor comes on and off. I removed the panel to gain access to the defrost timer and when I tap it with a wooden dowel after the temperature is too high in the freezer the compressor will come on.

Orlin for model number ED20TQXEW00
Answer:

Hi Orlin, Thank you for the question.This sounds like the Defrost Timer issue.You can also test the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My refrigerator will not restart after defrosting without unplugging the frig for about 10min then plug back in, runs good until the next defrost cycle. Will this fix the problem?

robert for model number ED25DS
Answer:

Hello Robert, that is a good question. It does sound like it would be the defrost thermostat. You can test this with a multi-meter to determine if it is faulty. Good luck with the repair!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

My Whirlpool side by side (model #gs6shaxms00) is not staying cool. Unplug and replug, and it will go for a while, then compressor stops and temp starts climbing in both freezer and fridge. No ice build up. All ducts free and clear. All fans and compressor are running (when it's working). I replaced relay starter and that didn't seem to do it. Have a feeling it's either the bi metal defrost thermostat in the freezer or the electronic control board (don't think this unit has a separate cold control switch behind the temp control knob in the fridge? I think that info all gets relayed down the main board?). Bad thermistor? Most feedback to the above parts in this site indicate the ecb. Any insights?

Keith for model number GS6SHAXMS00
Answer:

Hi Keith, I suggest testing the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat.The best way to do this is to remove the Thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps

1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

Fridge side everything iced up too cold milk vegetables and drink all iced up so what part i have to replace thanks

Danny for model number WSF26C3EXF01
Answer:

Hi Danny, Thank you for your question. I would suggest checking your defrost thermostat and your thermistor. It seems like those are usually the common issues when you are seeing that problem in your appliance. You can test both with a multi meter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

Does pink wire go with pink and brown with black wire on thermostat

Robert for model number 106.54589400
Answer:

Hi Robert, Thank you for the question. Yes this is correct.Good luck with the repair!

Question:

Refrigerator and freezer not cooling tested thermostat n frig and change freezer thermostat on coil how long for cooling?

Arlander for model number 1059069990
Answer:

Hi Arlander, Thank you for your inquiry. If you have installed a new thermostat into the refrigerator, please allow 24 hours for it to cool properly. If this does fix the issue, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the defrost timer, the condenser fan motor, the thermostat assembly and the door gaskets. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

The skinny wall between the freezer & refridg where both doors meet on the outside gets very hot. Freezer is 6 degrees refridg is 34 degrees. Freezer defrosted to about 30 degrees but refrig stayed at 34 degrees. Lasted like that for a few days then the freezer fluxuated between 6 and 12 degrees again. Thawed again. Refrig working fine. What could the malfunction be?

John for model number KSCS25INSS00
Answer:

Hi John, Thank you for your inquiry. Based on the information you provided you will need to check the bi-metal defrost thermostat and the thermistor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Refrigerator side was a little warm , and lower vent in the middle of refrigerator was iced up completely , started as frost and turned to ice ,, took every thing out let it thaw out , cleaned condenser coils at bottom , seems ok now ,how much ice is to much ice on evaporator for air not to pass the coils get frosty but that’s it ?? also if vent was blocked by a box or plastic bag would that cause frost or ice to block passages from vent .?? middle of refridgerator side

Pete for model number ED5PHEXRLOO
Answer:

Hi Pete, Thank you for your question. Any amount of ice forming on the evaporator fan motor is not a good thing. A blockage may cause the ice to build up, but frost or ice could also build up as a result of a faulty evaporator fan motor, a burnt out defrost heater and the electronic control board. I would check these parts with a multimeter to make sure they are working correctly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

Frig freezing almost everything. Tried setting temp to higher than normal, then after 2 days, all the way up (47 degrees?). Still freezes drinks and food.

Jeffrey for model number ISC23CDEXB00
Answer:

Hi Jeffrey, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Diffuser. If the diffuser is "stuck" open it will allow to much cold air to come over from the freezer and will free the food in the Fresh Food side. Check to make sure there is nothing blocking it and not allowing it to close. Check both the freezer and Fresh Food side. Sometimes they get an ice build up and will freeze the flap open. If there is nothing blocking it and it will not close on its own, I suggest replacing the diffuser. Hope this helps!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 12 reviews What's this?
1-12 of 12
 

198 of 247 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Laune from Front Worth, TX

Both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling

Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put the cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.

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132 of 146 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Cathy from Winter Park, FL

Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.

WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.

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41 of 51 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Jim from Lynn, IN

Refrigerator too warm, freezer coil iced up

Unplug the refrigerator first,then Remove shelves and back inside cover from the freezer. Cut old bi-metal thermostat off and installed a new one. This fixed the problem. Ordered a new timer also which I didn,t need but installed it any way. On the fridge side ,top front, removed the knobs and cover, R&R timer, installed cover and knobs. Pay close attention to the instructions on where to put the black wire on the new timer. My refrigerator works great now. This was easy to repair if you are handy with electrical and mechanical repairs, if not get some help.

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35 of 45 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Robert from Doral, FL

Refrigerator wasn't cooling,evaporater coil freezing up

I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

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27 of 35 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: James from Ringoes, NJ

Auto defrost freezer keeps defrosting side by side kitchenaid

DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James

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23 of 37 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Customer: Curtis from Pikeville, KY

Refrigeator would not drfrost...

I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall

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21 of 38 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Dale from Flemingsburg, KY

It was not coming out of defrost cycle

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

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6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Guy from MUNSTER, IN

Refrigerator and freezer was not "working " ,ice machine not working.

Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!

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7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Dean from GRANBURY, TX

Constant 20 below zero in freezer (side by side ref/freezer) ref 37 deg. Ok. Defrost frozen up with ice.

I watched several video's on youtube that showed me how to replace the parts. Just Google "how to fix my freezer". I figured the only problem was the freezer Thermistor so I only replaced it. The refrigerator has one to. Instantly the freezer went back to Zero degrees and the defroster works fine after melting all the ice in the bottom. Make sure the drain hole is cleared. I ordered the bi-metal thermostat just in case but I don't need it. Be sure and position the thermistor down in the freezer rail on the right side just to where you can see it in the first opening and pull it back up out of sight and tape it to the wall where it comes through from the air baffle. It's important that it's 7.8 " down from the top of the freezer. Happy now, Freezer 0, refrigerator 37. This thing use to run all the time, I'm saying electricity now.

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5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: dominique from COMPTON, CA

Thermostat

I followed your instructions , the only thing that was left out was that the freezer has a drain hole that had to be thawed out with a hair dryer,till the water went to the drain pan underneath the ref. your instruction were through enough, that's why I purchased the part from your company, I installed the part 2 days ago and its working like new again 23.00 for the part instead of 1200.00 dollars for another ref. thanks very much. 6 months ago I purchased the relay and compressor starter from your company at that time per your instructions I shook the compressor starter and like a light bulb it had something broke inside,I needed that thanks again oomk

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Joseph from DELTONA, FL

Fridge stopped cooling then the freezer

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: George from ENDWELL, NY

Freezer temp was -20 to -30 degrees f. And did not defrost because of the extreme low temperatures.

The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.

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1-12 of 12

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PartSelect Number: PS11750673
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10225581
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