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Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat

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21 Reviews
$ 29.82   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS11750673
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10225581
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat Specifications

If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-metal thermostat is to clip onto the evaporator and protect your evaporator from overheating during the defrost cycle. If your refrigerator does not defrost properly you can test both the thermostat and the heater to figure out which part is at fault. For this repair, you will need a Phillips screwdriver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a flat blade screwdriver, a pair of wire strippers, a roll of electrical tape, and a few butt splice connectors.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Fridge too warm | Freezer not defrosting | Freezer section too warm | Fridge too cold
This part works with the following products:
Refrigerator.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Maytag.
Part# WPW10225581 replaces these:
AP6017375, 2149849, 2161331, 2176066, 2188824, 2196155, 2266066, 2266067, 2315504, 2317087, 2319914, 2321799, 2321802, 4387498, W10225581, W10260437, WPW10225581VP
Questions and Answers

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57 questions answered by our experts.
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Keith
November 6, 2017
My Whirlpool side by side (model #gs6shaxms00) is not staying cool. Unplug and replug, and it will go for a while, then compressor stops and temp starts climbing in both freezer and fridge. No ice build up. All ducts free and clear. All fans and compressor are running (when it's working). I replaced relay starter and that didn't seem to do it. Have a feeling it's either the bi metal defrost thermostat in the freezer or the electronic control board (don't think this unit has a separate cold control switch behind the temp control knob in the fridge? I think that info all gets relayed down the main board?). Bad thermistor? Most feedback to the above parts in this site indicate the ecb. Any insights?
For model number GS6SHAXMS00
Hi Keith, I suggest testing the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat.The best way to do this is to remove the Thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps

38 people found this helpful.

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Angela
September 13, 2017
Refrigerator is warm, freezer works fine. What parts do. I need
For model number W8txngfwq02
Hi Angela, Thank you for the question. When the fresh food section is warm you will need to check a few things. You can start by checking for frost build up in the freezer and on the coils on the back of the appliance. If there is frost build up you may need to replace the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat or the Defrost Heater. If you do not have a frost build up you need to listen to see if the fan at the back of the freezer is kicking on. The Evaporator Fan circulates air over the refrigerator coils. These coils will convert the heat into cool air, which is then circulated into the fresh food section If the fan is not running then the air will not circulate. It is also a good idea to check the gasket around the door. If there are gaps or if it is not sealing properly it will let warm air in. You can turn a flash light on and put it inside the fridge and turn the lights off in the kitchen (evenings are best) and watch for any light coming through around the gasket. If everything else checks out you may need to replace the Thermostat. This thermally operated switch, controls the compressor circuit and therefore the temperature of the fresh food compartment. Hope this helps!

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Related Parts:
Jorge
March 26, 2018
My fridge upper section is getting warm, even when i set it to coldest mode. The freezer works well, is freezing correctly. What could be wrong? Thank you
For model number KSRS25IHWH02
Hello Jorge, thank you for your question. The first parts I would check would be the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat Part Number: WPW10225581, Air Diffuser Part Number: WP2209751, Electronic Defrost Control Board with Wire Harness and Screws Part Number: 4388932, Heater, Defrost Part Number WP2323198, and the Evaporator Fan Motor - 120V 60Hz Part Number 4389144. If there is frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which are behind the back wall of the freezer section, that is a good indicator that there is an issue with the defrost thermostat, the defrost heater, or the defrost control board. If the evaporator fan motor isn't turning that needs to be replaced, as the fan motor blows cold air into the fridge section from the freezer. If the diffuser isn't opening the cold air is not able to come from the freezer to fridge. I hope this information helps!

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Steve
January 30, 2018
My Whirlpool freezer coils get covered in frost and the fridge starts to get warm after the fan can't push cold air (i'm assuming). I have replaced the bi metallic defroster part three times in 6 years. This last time only lasted two weeks before it frosted over again. Any suggestions on something else i might need to replace? This fridge is a complete lemon by the way. If it's still produced i would avoid at all costs.
For model number ED5FVGXWS01
Hello Steve, thank you for your question. I would recommend checking the defrost heater and Defrost Control Board. The heater and thermostat work in connection with each other to keep the coils defrosted and the control board works like a timing mechanism. I hope this helps!

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Robert
August 22, 2017
My refrigerator will not restart after defrosting without unplugging the frig for about 10min then plug back in, runs good until the next defrost cycle. Will this fix the problem?
For model number ED25DS
Hello Robert, that is a good question. It does sound like it would be the defrost thermostat. You can test this with a multi-meter to determine if it is faulty. Good luck with the repair!

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Jim
August 28, 2017
I have removed the bi-metallic defrost thermostat from the coils in freezer and measured open with a resistance check. What should i read at ambient temperature? What is the normal "shelf state" reading on this thermostat? Thanks
Hello Jim, thank you for contacting us. If you test the defrost therm at room temperature it should be an open circuit. If you put the thermostat in some ice cold water, after a few mins you will hear a click, if you test it again it should be a closed circuit. Hope this helps!

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Orlin
November 14, 2017
Refrigerator and freezer are intermittent. I have replaced the relays on the compressor because the compressor would not run. It works but now sometimes the freezer will stop cooling for too long and water will drip. Also the compressor will come on for a short time and turn back off sometimes after more than one try it will stay on and the freezer will go down to -10 or 15 degree f and may work of for several hours. When it is not cooling properly I think the ice maker is also off. I suspect the defrost timer and maybe the thermostat. Is there a thermostat other than the defrost thermostat that controls when the compressor comes on and off. I removed the panel to gain access to the defrost timer and when I tap it with a wooden dowel after the temperature is too high in the freezer the compressor will come on.
For model number ED20TQXEW00
Hi Orlin, Thank you for the question.This sounds like the Defrost Timer issue.You can also test the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Pete
November 7, 2017
Refrigerator side was a little warm , and lower vent in the middle of refrigerator was iced up completely , started as frost and turned to ice ,, took every thing out let it thaw out , cleaned condenser coils at bottom , seems ok now ,how much ice is to much ice on evaporator for air not to pass the coils get frosty but that’s it ?? also if vent was blocked by a box or plastic bag would that cause frost or ice to block passages from vent .?? middle of refridgerator side
For model number ED5PHEXRLOO
Hi Pete, Thank you for your question. Any amount of ice forming on the evaporator fan motor is not a good thing. A blockage may cause the ice to build up, but frost or ice could also build up as a result of a faulty evaporator fan motor, a burnt out defrost heater and the electronic control board. I would check these parts with a multimeter to make sure they are working correctly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Dale
January 1, 2018
I have a Whirlpool side by side the freezer will not get cold enough, it goes form 13 deg. To 52 deg. And this is running this range for several days. The refrigerator side is running 28 deg. To 36 deg.. (these temp. are the highs and lows for a 24 hour. period) the fans are running when you open the doors. freezer setting is turned as cold as it will go, but it does not change the temp. very much. any thoughts what might be the problem.
For model number ED5LHEXTD00
Hi Dale, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the thermostat. The best way to do this is to remove the thermostat from the refrigerator so you can control the temperature of the sensor. You can let the sensor warm up to room temperature. With the sensor warmed up to room temperature the sensor should read approximately 6.2K Ohms at 68°F. With the thermistor submerged is a glass full of ice water, the sensor should be very close to 32°F which should read approximately 16.3K Ohms. If the values that you are getting are far off from these readings, then the sensor is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Matt
January 17, 2018
I don't think this model has a defrost timer? What controls when it goes into the defrost cycle? Thanks matt
For model number GD5RHAXNQ00
Hello Matt, Thank you for your inquiry. That would be the main control board, it takes the input from the thermostat and sends a signal to the defrost heater. Hope this helps!

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Part Videos

Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat

Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.4 / 5.0, 17 reviews. What's this?
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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Both freezer and refrigerator stopped cooling
Compressor Start Divice kit, I took off back lower panel with the 1/4 inch nut driver, on the compressor their was a wire hook that held the starter in place used my plyers to unhook, pulled the unit off plug the new unit in reappled the clip it was so easy I had to exame it severl to time to make sure that was all their was to it. put the cover back on and turn the refrigerator on and it has work great, I did not install the Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat it was not needed.
  • Laune from Front Worth, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581, 8201786
216 of 270 people found this instruction helpful.
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is not functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.

Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket

Steps:

1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.

2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.

3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.

4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.

5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.

6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.

7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.

8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.

9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.

10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.

11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.

12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).

13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.

14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
  • Cathy from Winter Park, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
144 of 160 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator too warm, freezer coil iced up
Unplug the refrigerator first,then Remove shelves and back inside cover from the freezer. Cut old bi-metal thermostat off and installed a new one. This fixed the problem. Ordered a new timer also which I didn,t need but installed it any way. On the fridge side ,top front, removed the knobs and cover, R&R timer, installed cover and knobs. Pay close attention to the instructions on where to put the black wire on the new timer. My refrigerator works great now. This was easy to repair if you are handy with electrical and mechanical repairs, if not get some help.
  • Jim from Lynn, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581, W10822278
51 of 62 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator Wasn't Cooling,Evaporater Coil Freezing Up
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment. The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good
  • Robert from Doral, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
38 of 48 people found this instruction helpful.
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Auto Defrost Freezer keeps defrosting SIDE BY SIDE KITCHENAID
DISCONNECT POWER. Removed all shelves/baskets.Popped upper panel off (just clips in) Removed 6 screws in lower back panel ( 3 each side) slid panel in place but down. You can then easily see the defrost thermostat/defrost termination switch. Cut the wire connectors (pink n brown wire) stripped back wire, attached new defrost thermostat. Thermostat clips on. New thermostat ohm's at 5.5, old one was "open". Slid cover back up meeting the upper cover grooves. Screwed lower panel in. Put shelves etc back in. Plugged in. Turns on, put a bottle of water in freezer. Checked a while later, frozen. has been frozen for a week.
-James
  • James from Ringoes, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
33 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigeator would not drfrost...
I just removed a few screews and took the cover out of the ice box. Put my voltage meter to the refrigeator and realized the the unit was not defrosting...I then got the part number and entered it in on your web site. A few days later my part arrived. I put the part on and in just about 20 minutes I was up an running again...Thank you Part Select for fast and great service. I own 35 rental properties and having a online appliance parts store really saves me a lot of time and money.

Thank you
Curtis Hall
  • Curtis from Pikeville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
26 of 42 people found this instruction helpful.
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It was not coming out of defrost cycle
First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.
  • Dale from Flemingsburg, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
22 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
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Constant 20 below zero in freezer (side by side ref/freezer) Ref 37 deg. OK. Defrost frozen up with ice.
I watched several video's on youtube that showed me how to replace the parts. Just Google "how to fix my freezer". I figured the only problem was the freezer Thermistor so I only replaced it. The refrigerator has one to. Instantly the freezer went back to Zero degrees and the defroster works fine after melting all the ice in the bottom. Make sure the drain hole is cleared. I ordered the bi-metal thermostat just in case but I don't need it. Be sure and position the thermistor down in the freezer rail on the right side just to where you can see it in the first opening and pull it back up out of sight and tape it to the wall where it comes through from the air baffle. It's important that it's 7.8 " down from the top of the freezer. Happy now, Freezer 0, refrigerator 37. This thing use to run all the time, I'm saying electricity now.
  • Dean from GRANBURY, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581, WP2188819
13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator and freezer was not "working " ,ice machine not working.
Removing the panels inside the freezer section was the most difficult ,because it is narrow,hard to fit your body inside compartment, in order to cut wires and to splice Bi-metal Defrost Thermostat wires (2 ) Watch the videos on the web site so you know where to start. First time I ever "repaired " a large appliance, saved me over $ 600.00 (that's what the people I bought the Refrigerator from wanted to charge me.) My parts cost 65.00 !!!!! My younger brother turned me onto the web site... , I'll be returning to the site and telling my friends about it. It's a total "rip off" what service organizations charge the general public these days from Car Dealer ships to the stores we purchase our appliances from. !!! Glad I still have my health and faculties to repair the essentials we have around our homes. !!!!
  • Guy from MUNSTER, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10662129, WPW10225581
11 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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THERMOSTAT
I followed your instructions , the only thing that was left out was that the freezer has a drain hole that had to be thawed out with a hair dryer,till the water went to the drain pan underneath the ref. your instruction were through enough, that's why I purchased the part from your company, I installed the part 2 days ago and its working like new again 23.00 for the part instead of 1200.00 dollars for another ref. thanks very much. 6 months ago I purchased the relay and compressor starter from your company at that time per your instructions I shook the compressor starter and like a light bulb it had something broke inside,I needed that thanks again oomk
  • dominique from COMPTON, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WPW10225581
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11750673
Manufacturer Part Number: WPW10225581
Brand
Model Number
Description
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