Only two possible failures can cause this problem. The valve itself could fail electronically/mechanically, or the ice maker controller on the ice maker itself failed to tell the valve to close. To cover all the bases I bought both parts. $196.00 To change the ice maker, three screws, one electrical plug, remove and reinstall face cover plate from old ice maker to new one, and remove and reinstall the metal bar that indicated when the ice bin is full, and tells the controller to stop making ice. It’s on YouTube and takes 10 to 15 minutes to complete the change.
To change the inlet valve, there is a little bit more to it then YouTube shows, ESPECIALLY SPECIAL TOOLING I PERSONALLY RECOMMEND. IF YOU DON’T HAVE IT YOU COULD DAMAGE NEW PARTS DURING INSTALLATION. Pull the fridge out, disconnect power and turn off the water. Have towels/ water catch tray/pan handy. Remove screws on the back cover plate as required to access inlet valve. Remove the water inlet line, (mine was 1/4 inch compression fitting, copper tubing.) remove 2 screws that hold valve in place. Pull valve out to full extension of electrical plug. Here is the part that YouTube DOES NOT COVER, take note of how many wires of go to each prong of the connector and its orientation while removing. I’m not a electrician/spark chaser, my guess it is a solenoid/relay type valve, when energized, it will open or close the valve. This is an AC circuit, and I will be honest, I don’t think polarity is a concern, but don’t quote me on that. It’s just easier to take note and put it back the way it was. It worked for 20 plus years, it should to the same if you put it back the way you found it, given you removed and replaced an identical part or a suitable substitute. Depending what valve you receive your water supply line from the valve to the ice maker can vary. It could be a Nylon compression fitting, (which could require additional parts,) or a quick disconnect. That is covered in YouTube, and its exact. Mine was a QD, cut 1/4 inch off nylon tubing and insert, pull back on line to insure security. Done. Very simple. Reconnect electrical plug, IN ITS PROPER ORIENTATION. Reattach valve with two screws. The next step IS NOT COVERED IN YOUTUBE. Before you reinstall cover plate, and push the fridge back, turn on water supply to the valve and perform a leak check. I would recommend applying power and make sure the valve cycles, and the line between the valve and ice maker doesn’t leak. I was good on the line between the valve and ice maker, that did not leak. My copper inlet tubing compression fitting failed at the valve attach point, and required special tooling to repair. A compression fitting to fix a leak you tighten till leak stops. So they say. This fitting was over torqued at one time or another, and leaked, so I spliced in about 6 inches of new copper tubing added a union, and 3 new compression fittings. The bad part, I had to go to hardware store, buy 10 feet of tubing (only needed 6 inches), the B-nuts, and the brass sleeves. To make the new attach point at the valve and new line, since the valve is mostly made of plastic, I used the union to fabricate the new end going to the valve, removed the union and attached the line to the valve. Here is where the special tool comes in, the fitting on the valve, is a very low profile hex head fitting, made of brass which is a soft material, very easy to strip if the wrench slips, and a back up wrench is near impossible to install as a back up with out fouling the B-nut while tightening the fitting. So I ground down a 1/2 or 9/16 open end wrench to fit, (check your fittings size before grinding or buying a wrench, yours could be metric), made it a thin wrench, so I can tighten compression fitting and back up the valve side WITH OUT DAMAGING THE VALVE I just paid 70 bucks for. If you own expensive tools Harbor Freight is your friend for a wrench to grind down or buy a thin wrench.
Snap-On makes thin wrenches, but I think they cost more then the valve. Once my splice was installed, I performed another leak check, all was good, I reinstalled, back cover panel, and pushed the fridge back. Since the ice maker was changed, the longest time took was adjusting ice cube size. You have to wait a complete cycle to see what size is dumped, then make the adjustment, and wait another complete cycle to see results. And do that until you get desired results. Those adjustments are on YouTube, and are fairly accurate. I ended up doing more then 1/2 turn at a time. More like 4 complete turns counter clockwise for larger ice. But it works! To change the valve actually takes about 15-20 minutes, very easy, I had complications. My luck, with any kind of plumbing, I make many trips to the hardware store. That is a given and completely unavoidable. Hope this helps.
Other Parts Used: