An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off. This safety thermostat trips when the controls are not working properly, or if the range gets too hot. If your oven will not start or is not heating properly, there could be an issue with the limit thermostat, and you should look to replace the part.
NOTE: Remember to disconnect the power from your range before you start this repair. This is an electrical appliance that can potentially hold a 220 volt charge.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Whirlpool Wall Oven Limit Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Little to no heat when baking | Element will not heat | Will Not Start | Door won’t open after self cleaning cycle
This part works with the following products:
Wall Oven, Microwave Oven Combo, Range.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Maytag.
Part# WP9759243 replaces these:
AP6014016, 4451442, 9759243, WP9759243VP
Customer Reviews
Average Rating:
★★★★★
★★★★★
13 Reviews
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★★★★★
★★★★★
William M - September 2, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Exact part easy to install
★★★★★
★★★★★
Chris B - January 28, 2021
Verified Purchase
Easy repair.
Part worked as advertised.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Robert M - July 29, 2020
Verified Purchase
High Temperature Limit Thermostat
delivery was fast, the part looked and fit like OEM. Oven works like new!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Laura K - July 26, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair- worked
I’ve learned NOT to use the self cleaning setting on my oven. Got to hot and blew the temperature thermostat. Luckily the new part fixed the problem and oven is back up and running.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Eric M - March 25, 2019
Verified Purchase
Works as advertised, but.......
Purchased this part in 2017 and it worked perfectly for less than 2 years, after a single ‘cleaning cycle’ of the oven 22 months later it failed again.
I purchased the new part and the oven works. So the part is good, but it should have a life of longer than 2 years.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Uriah D - December 28, 2018
Verified Purchase
Part was as expected. Easy fix!
Fast shipping and the limit thermostat works great and was easy to install. Once again, I got things cooking baby!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Joseph C B - December 26, 2018
Verified Purchase
Right part, easy repair
I found it easy to use your website to find the right part and a video to help do the repair correct. You guys are making me look like a professional appliance repairman. Awesome help.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Les K - November 13, 2018
Verified Purchase
Repair was significantly easier than I expected
I had killed the built-in oven with a self-cleaning cycle. I tried simple repair: replace oven heater elements. No good.
I wasn't comfortable opening back of oven, but it was simple repair and, for a hardware-incompetent DIYer, relatively quick: 2 screwdrivers, a cardboard pad to keep stove off the floor, and 40 minutes from initial glaring at the stove to walking away somewhat self-satisfied.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Paul H - October 17, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great repair
Right part. On time. Fit right.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Jerry C - August 21, 2018
Verified Purchase
Great part
Received part in just a few days.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 14 reviews.
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E1 and e15
Removed locking device
Calvin from GARNER, NC
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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Oven would not heat
1. Disconnect AC power 2. Remove back with several sheet metal screws. 3. Remove wires from Limit Thermostat. 4. Check Limit Thermostat continuity -- if open then Limit Thermostat is faulty. 5. Remove Limit Thermostat with two screws. 6. Install new thermostat
Ray from GOLD CANYON, AZ
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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Limit Thermostat had burned out due to high temp of self cleaning mode
1) Removed the trim pieces (2 screws). 2) removed the 2 screws holding the oven in the wall. 3) Slid the oven out of the wall cabinet 4) removed the back panel of the oven ( 10 screws. 5.) removed the old thermostat (2 nuts) 6.). Installed the new thermostat and reversed steps 4-1
Jay from MINNETRISTA, MN
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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After using self cleaning feature oven wouldn't heat
I looked up the problem and determined I needed to replace the limit switch which is inside the back panel. As a 78 year old woman who isn't afraid to tackle these problems I found this easier than most. Just be sure to disconnect the electrical connection if you don't have long enough length to pull oven from the wall cabinet. I won't pu
... Read moret any sheet pans in the oven next time I self clean it.
Read less
Nadine from ALACHUA, FL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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No heat to oven, all other controls appear to function
Oven stopped heating after attempting a self cleaning cycle. Problem turned out to be failed thermal fuse component. This is an easy repair and well worth the attempt given the replacement cost of the oven.
First step was to locate and shut off the two circuit breakers supplying power to the oven. Then I locked the panel to ens
... Read moreure someone didnt re-engage the breakers while I was working on the unit. (Lock out / Tag out).
Second step was sliding the oven out of the cabinet - this unit is located below a cooking top and was just the perfect height to allow a furniture dolly to be used to support the oven as I slid it out.
The unit is 'hard wired' (i.e. no power plug) so it can only be pulled out so far from the cabinet, but there was sufficient reach to allow access to and removal of the sheet metal cover at the rear of the oven to expose the thermal fuse and the read wiring. I proceeded with care, assuming the power was still on and once the terminals of the thermal fuse were exposed I performed a voltage measurement to ground on each side of the fuse to ensure power was in fact off.
Then I used an insulated pliers to gently remove the wire harness at each side of the fuse, and once the wires were removed I performed a continuity check of the suspect fuse, and confirmed it was an open circuit (i.e. failed).
Removal of two more screws allowed the fuse to be removed and the new fuse was installed, reversing the procedure.
This was followed by replacement of the rear sheet metal and finally sliding the oven back into its place in the cabinet using the furniture dolly. This is a single oven but still very heavy and has some sharp sheet metal edges likely to cause cuts if not handled with care so the dolly and a second set of hands (and good gloves) are nice to have.
Finally, after inspecting the oven door gasket and other air vents around the outside of the oven to identify suspect causes of the overheating event that tripped the fuse, the air vents above and below and within the door were cleared of dust-bunnies and other debris that had collected, possibly causing interference with the air flow that cools the area in between the oven and the cabinet. This blockage may have been the root cause of the fuse failure - i.e. the air did get too hot back there and had the fuse not tripped it would have been dangerous. The door gasket looked fine although its also an easy replacement and does not require oven removal.
The new part fit perfectly - it was a different design than the original part that shipped with the oven but appears to function perfectly so no complaints. The trip temperature is identical to the OEM part based upon the nomenclature on the back of the OEM and the replacement fuse part.
Unlocked the power panel and turned on the two breakers to the oven, set the clock and checked operation and its functioning great now.
Have not run a self cleaning operation since the repair but that is the next step and now that those door vents are clear I suspect that the fuse wont trip again.
Lesson Learned: Check those vents for obstructions.
Similar oven selling at discount because its the end of the model year is now priced at over $1100. Fixed our unit for $50 and the added cost of a $20 furniture dolly that I already wanted to buy.
Give this repair a try its a piece of cake and well worth the effort.
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Stephen from PLACENTIA, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Neither bake nor broil elements came on
Removed four trim pieces; removed four wood screws holding oven in cabinet housing; slid oven out (weighs about 150 lbs and takes two people and a bench to rest oven on. Oven will pull all the way out but not much further because of the electric cord.); Removed back sheet metal cover (bunch of small metal screws); removed wires from b
... Read moread unit, unscrewed the bad unit and screwed in the replacement unit.
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Rod from Dripping Springs, TX
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
7 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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every time I would try to do the self clean mode on my drop in range the thermostat blows. Last time it was still under warranty. I took the part number from the repair man's invoice to order the new part.
My husband took the back off and replaced it. The repairman suggested pulling the range out into the floor to run the self clean mode. I have owned several such ranges and have never had to do that and won't now. Easy Clean Oven Cleaner will be the next thing I use.
joyce from thomasville, NC
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
5 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Upper oven bake and broil elements fail to heat when keypad entries made and indicating correctly
Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the dou
... Read moreble line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.
Read less
Kenneth V. from Kent, WA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
17 of 21 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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oven wouldn't heat after self-cleaning the oven
The website and diagram of my oven helped me know exactly what was wrong and where to locate the problem. I simply removed the oven door and the trim, pulled the oven out of the wall. After removing the back panel I located the part and put in the new part. Then reversed the procedure.
Joi from Higginsville, MO
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
10 of 20 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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quit heating
I have a rental and the tenant called. She said that she had a repair man out to fix the oven but he couldn't~that it needed to be replaced as he could not get parts.I contacted your company via phone and the person was so helpful~he asked the problem, looked up the model and advised me on this!It works like a brand new oven!Thanks you
karen from bismarck, ND
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
8 of 12 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
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22 questions answered by our experts.
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Charlie
January 31, 2018
Oven becomes very hot, locks the door and reads F3 E2
For model number RBS245PRB03
Hi Charlie,
Thank you for your question. The F3 E2 error code stands for: Oven Temperature Sensor (RTD) or Warming Drawer Defect - Replace oven temperature sensor (RTD). I would suggest testing your temperature sensor with a multi meter. If that part is working then it may be your electronic control board that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
7 people found this helpful.
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Mac
December 12, 2018
I performed a self-clean and when finished the door opens, only if I lift it up. The elements will no heat.
For model number RBS275PDQ6
Hello Mac, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Oven Sensor, PartSelect Number PS11742569. Testing the temperature sensor probe on your oven is easy. With the sensor at room temperature, measure the resistance between the two prongs at the end of the sensor connector. The resistance of the sensor should read approximately 1080 – 1090 ohms at room temperature.
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Mike
February 13, 2019
For years have bought papa murphy's take and bake pizza. About 8 months ago bought one. Cooked it, bottom of dough not cooked, top was. Sunday baked son chicken wings, got up to check, oven panel says e2 and f3. Would like to fix this. Do you know which part? I'm hoping it's not two issues. Bottom of pizza not cooked and what the digital says. After 20 minutes or so, pushed on and it worked fine. I don't believe temperature is correct. Thank you. Mike
For model number Whirlpool RBS305PRQ00
Hi Mike, thank you for your question. That error code indicates that there is an issue with your appliance oven temperature sensor. First I would say test your elements with a multi meter to see if they are working correctly or not. They should be reading between 0 - 50 ohms to be working correctly. The other part you should check would be your oven temperature sensor. That can also be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 1000 - 1100 ohms. If those three parts are fine however, then the issue may be in your control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
3 people found this helpful.
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Margaret
February 2, 2018
At first it started flashing f3. Then it would turn heat off flash f3 and i would have to turn off, restart. Bake for a few minutes flash f3 and was either not heating or temperature changed. Do i need part ps11748765 to fix? Is there a video showing installation?
For model number GBS277PDB11
Hi Margaret,
Thank you for your question. The F3 error code is referring to an open oven temperature sensor. The temperature sensor measures the temperature inside the oven. If your oven is too hot, not heating evenly, is not heating enough when baking, or simply will not start, you could have a faulty temperature sensor. A faulty temperature sensor can be a fire risk. If your sensor is not working properly, you should look to replace it straight away. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
3 people found this helpful.
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John
March 4, 2018
Oven comes on but will that heat up
For model number Rbs245pdt12
Hi John,
Thank you for your question. I believe that you are saying that your appliance will not heat? There are really only a few parts that would cause that. I would suggest checking this thermostat, your temperature sensor, and your element first. All of those parts can be tested with a multi meter to determine if they are bad or not. If they are all fine, then unfortunately it may be your electronic control board that is the issue. I hope that helps. If that was not your question, I do apologize. If you could resubmit your question with some more information, we would definitely be able to help. Good luck with your repair.
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Ernie
September 5, 2019
Our oven was not heating. I troubleshot the problem with a digital multi meter to the limit thermostat, as it was open. I ordered the replacement part #wp9759243. I install the part, turned the circuit breaker on and instantly the broiler and bake elements came on. I tested the limit thermostat replacement part and found this device had 0 ohms. I ordered another part and the same part had 0 ohms. I though i should see some resistance between the terminals. I went on several forums to research and found two (2) different opinions; one says i should measure between 1k ohms and 1.1k ohms and another opinion says i should see 0 ohms. I am confused as i believe i should see some resistance between the terminals. Have i received two (2) defective parts? Please help. Thank you.
For model number RBS275PDB14
Hello Ernie, Thank you for the question. The Limit Thermostat should ready closed for continuity. This could be an issue with the Oven Control Board, PartSelect Number PS11745873. Hope this helps!
1/2 through self cleaning cycle oven shuts down compleaty no power even time gone it’s like no power breaker o.K. Shut off breaker an tryed turning back on still no power?
For model number RBS245pdt14
Hello Ralph, thank you for your question. There are a few parts we would recommend testing to determine the problem. They are the Limit thermostat PartSelect Number: PS11747249, and temperature sensor PartSelect Number: PS11748765. If these parts are tested and are ok, the issue would be with the main electronic control board. I hope this helps.
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Daniel
December 19, 2017
I replaced the temperature sensor (top oven was overheating) and the oven worked for 3 cooks. Last night it went hot and locked the door. Bad sensor or other part?
For model number RBD305PDT14
Hello Daniel,
Thanks for your question. Using a multi-meter, we would advise testing the thermal fuse and the door latch for continuity. If they do not show continuity, replace them.
I hope this helps.
Door is locked and no power after doing self cleaning cycle. Is this the thermal fuse or something else?
For model number IBS550PWS01
Hello James, thank you for writing. First try pressing the CANCEL/OFF key to do a latch reset. Wait about 30 seconds and then try to open the door. You can also try cutting the power at the circuit breaker for a few minutes then turn the power back on to reset the unit. Is there any sort of error code being displayed? We hope this helps and please feel free to get back in touch with us if this does not resolve the issue.
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Charles
February 26, 2023
Regarding the oven shutdown thermal fuse part #11747249 for our whirlpool wall oven. I have four of these items, three I purchased from you. One of was in the oven. I tested each of the fuses across the contact points while out of the oven with my multimeter and three of the four had no reading. the fourth did have a reading indicating it was closed. My question is what are the fuses NC or NO.(normally closed or normally open). I have a schematic for the oven but it does not indicate the correct position..Can you please let me know before I order further parts? thanks Chuck
For model number RBS277PVB00
Hi Charles, thank you for contacting us. If you checked the mentioned thermal fuse, part number PS11747249, with a multimeter and got no reading, that means your part is normally open. If the multimeter indicated continuity then your part would be normally closed. We hope this solves your problem!
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