Completely removed lower wash arm and replaced bearing ring and seal.

Removed spray arm thumb nut. Removed spray arm. replaced worn and broken earings and re-assembled in reverse order. Would have done the repair a lot sooner if I had known that PartsSelect was just a few miles up the highway.

The plastic parts on this spray arm assembly wear with time and the rotation wobble effect creates a wave action in the pool of water at the bottom of the dishwasher. This waves the water onto the front door and forces a leak outside the unit. Replace the lower arm assembly, washer, bearing and nut. They all wear. Also remember to tighten the screws on top of the pump assembly. They loosen and aid in the wobble. Good Luck!

I noticed the upper bushing washer was worn thin. this caused the lower spray arm to rise too high and wobble during all the wash cycles. Also the rotation of the lower spray arm was wearing grooves in the lower bushing.

I removed the retaining nut and simply replaced teh defective parts. While I was at it I figured equal wear might be evident on the upper spray arm so I bought a complete rebuild kit to bring all rotational parts back to new and equal preformance that was achieved by removing the ss screw and removing the upper spray arm, bushing and clip then replacing them in the order of removal. Noticed a huge difference in the quality of the washed dishes!! Thanks Parts Select 100% to yoru company!!

After reading the diagrams and other readers' repair stories, I found that the plastic nuts and rings had worn out. The arm-spray wobbled excessively.

I simply twisted off the spray arm bearing ring and removed the other parts. The arm-spray was covered with mineral deposits that cleaning did not remove.

I received my parts overnight and replaced them according to the diagram. It's like having a new dishwasher!

I first removed the wash arm retainer nut then lifted the arm assembly out and replaced the spray arm bearing ring and then set the spray arm back in place and put the wash arm bearing ring in the hole and screwed the wash arm retainer nut back in place. I couldn't believe how much the 2 had worn down. It is working fine. Saved me about a $125.00 service call out here as I live 50 miles from the nearest big town. Not bad for a 68 year old female!!

You WILL need a star-tip screwdriver for this COMMON DU915 repair. We already had one.
The plastic "wing" nut which keeps the lower sprayarm attached to the pump assembly cracked inside where the threading on each part meets. Have been reattaching the nut to the Pump outlet for a year or so with super glue and finally found PartSelect.com. My husband had to fix this with a star screwdriver and vice grips (and he is super strong)-- otherwise an easy fix using just the manual supplied by the manufacturer. I just noticed the virtual repairman feature on partselect but we didn't need to go there.
The starhead screws that hold the pump outlet in place were on super tight. Other than that, no problem. It has been a week and the dishwasher works like new.
I ordered the parts online at 9pm at night and had the parts in my mailbox the next day - LESS than 24 hours later. How is that even possible?
Just ask anyone who knows me...I am NOT easy to please when it comes to customer service in any realm of the retail world - I have to say without any doubt PartSelect is the BEST experience I've had in my entire shopping life. It's as if customers run this company. I only wish they sold car parts, groceries, clothes and food.
I will be back to purchase again, I'm sure and I know it will go just as smoothly.
PartSelect.com...Please call me when you are ready to launch an IPO!!!!!!!

The pump outlet gasket was sticking out and a screw was missing from the pump outlet housing. This was causing water to flood out under the door.

Once I removed the pump outlet housing I saw that the gasket was out of place almost all the way around. I cleaned around the housing, replaced the gasket and the missing screw.

You need a Torx T-15 for this repair. Note that all of the screws on the housing were loose so you might need to tighten them from time to time.

Be careful not to drip a screw when you are installing it since it's a real hassle to fish it out from under the screen.

Once everything was tightened up, the wash pressure seemed to be much higher.

This gets a little lengthy... but it explains where Cascade Dishwashing Powder came up with its brand name - it's been a cascade project.
I started by replacing the Middle Wash Arm Tube as the old tube developed leaks. As others have stated this is a new design but directly replaceable and easy to do.
This didn't solve the cleaning issue so reading the experiences of others on this site realized I also had broken parts in the Upper Spray Arm Assembly and the Upper Wash assembly. I replaced these and the dishes were suddenly much, much cleaner. These were very easily replaced.
I did find that I did not need the Mount for the upper spray arm (PS402277) as a redesign of the Upper Spray Arm Mounting bracket no longer required it - the bracket simply clipped in -the diagram was out of date.
Everything seemed to go well for about 3 loads when the dishwasher started leaking heavily out of the bottom of the door. I then noticed that the lower Wash Arm Bearing Ring and the Seal, Lower Spray Arm had disintegrated so I replaced those but this didn't affect the leaking. Someone had stated that if the lower wash arm assembly had too much 'wobble' that it cause 'waves' that would leak out the front door... mine had some wobble so I added a nylon washer from Ace Hardware that reduced wobble but still leaked.
I then replaced the Door Seal Kit - this was by far the most difficult part as the door needed to be removed and it was somewhat difficult - and it seemed apparent after we had removed the door that these parts weren't the problem but we replaced them anyway.
Also, someone else had noted that they had to attach the door seal (this is NOT the gasket that goes around the door opening) with a sealant - I had the same problem; the original seal fit tightly with friction but the new replacement required an adhesive - I used silicone. Still leaked.
From here on I can't guaratee any useful information: I took the strainer screen out of the bottom of the dishwasher and found one slightly loose screw holding what I believe is the 'pump outlet' according to the diagram. I had also read that the water fill is controlled not by the float at the bottom of the washer but by the electronics and it was suggested that I disconnect the DW from the power to 'reset' the timer, this I did and hit the 'Cancel' cycle a couple of times to make sure that all programs were cancelled. Whether any of this made a difference I have no idea - except that the dishwasher suddenly stopped leaking and hasn't leaked a drop for at least 20 washes. So I don't know, for sure, why it leaked or how I fixed it, but it's working and washing great now - except the tines on the lower rack are beginning to rust out and breaking off. The rack is pretty expensive but so far I've saved a lot of money and my family thinks I'm a dishwasher genius.

Put wheels on new bottom rack and put back in dishwasher. Like that the back racks can lie down for pots and large dishes. Removed the the wash arm and replaced the ring. Too easy