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This arm is what attaches to the idler pulley wheel.
The grommet no longer comes with the part as it has been updated by the manufacturer.
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OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. Simply put, this means that the company who made your appliance is also supplying the replacement part for it.
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Michael F - July 22, 2021
Verified Purchase
It worked.
Matched original.
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Eddie E - October 11, 2019
Verified Purchase
Great Part My
My dryer is back to running smoothly with no squealing noise. Very happy! Thank You Parts Select!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 27 reviews.
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Squeeky dryer
Okay, first of all, just let me say, if I can do this, ANYONE can. I am not very handy when it comes to things like this. I watched online videos and they will walk you through everything. I am so pleased with the results. Quiet as can be now. Before, we would have to shut the door when it was on because the scretching was so loud! The pa
... Read morerts on this site were far more affordable than at my local repair store and they all came right to my doorstep. Overall it took me about 45 minutes and three beers :) Good luck!
This was a pretty easy repair. The idler wheel bearing was bad and I replaced the wheel, the two drum support rollers, idler arm and belt. The video for replacing the idler wheel was spot on for my model and made it easy to complete the job. My thanks to PartSelect for a great repair experience.
I looked up my problem online and everything I saw said to change the roller wheels that hold the barrel of the dryer. After doing that (twice, once on each side) I was still having a horrible squeaking sound so bad that we were waiting to do laundry until we were leaving for a while. Finally I determined that the problem was actually t
... Read morehe idler wheel. All I had to do was remove the bolt holding the idler arm on (it's the arm that has a spring connected to it that moves to allow the belt on or off) and put the new arm with the new wheel on. The dryer is now whisper quiet and works perfectly.
First of all I looked at the Video, which made it a lot easier. I decided to replace both rollers, the idler pulley, the idler bracket, and the belt so I should be fixed for a while. Installing the parts was not that hard. When installing the drum turn it by hand to make sure their are no binds, this will also insure the belt is not twis
... Read moreted and the felt around the drum is installed correctly. The hardest thing was getting all the panels back together with the right screws. Use a small screwdriver to line up the holes. Parts Select resources on their web site make it easier for the handyman to complete this repair. Parts were in Stock, at a fair price, and received in two days on normal delivery. I will use you again and give you a 10 on your service....
Removed power to the dryer by turning the dryer AC breaker in the breaker panel "off". Removed dryer door and front panel with phillips screwdriver and/or nut driver. Removed spring tensioner from idler arm and shaft assy. Slipped off drive belt and removed idler/shaft assy with 5/16 open end wrench (or maybe 11/32, don't remember the
... Read moreexact size). No need to remove drum, you can get both hands in there, also used a flash light and mirror to locate the mounting screw. Mounted the new pulley on the new shaft assy, using the old washers and clip. Glad I ordered the shaft assy because it was scored up pretty bad. The pulley just has a bushing/sleeve, not a roller bearing. (I put a tiny dab of light gease on the shaft before mounting the new bearing.) Replaced the shaft assy, hooked up the spring and replaced the belt onto the pulley. Reassembled the front panel and door and was good to go.
The drier tumbler stopped spinning, and my wife noticed a burning smell when it ran.
1) Took off the front door of the drier (first unscrewed it in the sides, then lifted the door to lift the hinges up and pulled the door off) 2) Pulled the front panel down and off 3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't 4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it did
... Read moren't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran. 5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning 6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley. 7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair... 8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :) 9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P) 10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring. 11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!
The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!
The repair was very simple, the information video was a very big help. Followed the steps just by watching the video. All the parts came apart and back together as stated in the video. Cannot be any easier. I used all the parts I order, but all it really needed was the drum support roller kit (noise) and the idler pulley (worn pulley)
... Read more. Dryer is quiet once again. WooHoo.
On my maytag dryer I took the door off with two screws, took the front panel off with four srcews, lifted the top panel up a little bit and removed the belt from the "tub" and pulled the tub out. I could easily then access the idler arm and pulley wheel. Due to the age of the dryer, I also replaced the tub belt while it was apart. Reverse
... Read mored the process to put it back together, alot easier than I thought.
Followed directions provided in video which are very clear and helpful. Took your expert about 15 - 20 minutes, but in reality it takes about an 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours which included cleaning out the whole cabinet area. Did not need the idler arm but did not want to find out after taking everything apart that a new one was needed.Also sugge
... Read morest drawing a sketch of how the belt goes around the drum,idler and motor for reference when reinstalling.
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4 questions answered by our experts.
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Christopher Campbell
May 14, 2019
Is any lubrication needed when replacing the belt idler pulley and the drum support wheels? If so, what lubricant should be used?
For model number MDG6657BWW
Hello Christopher, thank you for your question. No, there is no lubrication needed when replacing the idler pulley and support wheels. You can see the installation videos at the following links. https://www.partselect.com/PS11743032-Whirlpool-WP6-3700340-Idler-Pulley-Wheel-and-Bearing.htm?SourceCode=4&SearchTerm=MDG6657BWW&ModelNum=MDG6657BWW. https://www.partselect.com/PS1570070-Whirlpool-12001541-Drum-Support-Roller-Kit.htm?SourceCode=4&SearchTerm=MDG6657BWW&ModelNum=MDG6657BWW. I hope this helps!
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Francene
January 8, 2020
I need a filter for dryer, somehow to got thrown out.
For model number MDE2500AYW
Hello Francene, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS11741075. We hope this helps!
My dryer is 20 years old, but about the last month it started making a noise when starting it, also when running it was louder. Well on December 30th it would not start, it made a very loud noise when I tried the fist time, but when trying again it made a buzzing noise but it did start. I listened for it to make sure all was ok. I stopped hearing it, but I never heard the buzz that it was done, so went to check on it and it had stopped and I smelled something hot like rubber and turned it off and unplugged it. I found this site figured maybe it was the belt and also ordered the felt for the front and back. Received them husband installed them. Dryer started still made a noise when starting and had a little noise when running last night. I stopped hearing it and checked, stopped again dryer was very warm, but I wanted to see if it would start. Nope and a very loud buzzing noise. So came back to this site again thought maybe it needs the idler arm and shaft, idler pulley wheel and bearings, idler pulley shaft washer, idler arm screw sleeve and idler shaft retain ring. I also tried to start it this morning and it did start. I still makes a noise when you press start. Do you think by changing these parts it will fix it? Do you think I need any others?
For model number MDG9316AWW
Hi Connie, Thank you for the question. The buzzing is indicating an issue with the Driver Motor, PartSelect Number PS3500892. In order to fix this issue the motor will need to be replaced.Hope this helps!
I just received my replacement parts from partselect.Com this morning for my Maytag dryer. Upon replacing the idler pulley, i noticed the idler bracket is loose. Looks as if the screw that attaches the pulley bracket to the motor is loose. Should it be tight or is there suppose to be some play?? thanks
For model number MDE9206AYW
Hi Josh,
Thank you for your question. The part should be tightened. There is a video listed with the idler arm and shaft on our website that you may reference for more information. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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