Thermal Fuse

I down loaded the dryer schematic and itentified items that would potentially cause the observed symptoms. Initially, I replaced the thermal fuse. After the symptoms returned after two loads, suspected the hi limit thermostat not regulating the heater element temperature. I located the thermostat using the illustrated parts list on your website and replaced the thermal fuse (second time) and the thermostats using a nut driver. The Blond hasn't announced a dryer stoppage since the repair, so I'm pronouncing the repair a success. Thank you for making the drawings and schematics available.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element completely out and disconnected the two wires.

From there it was just a matter of installing the new part.

Anybody could do it

Unplugged unit, lifted the top cover, removed heater element screw, lifted out element, lifted out thermal fuse bracket. Removed wires from thermal fuse, confirmed was open curcuit at room temperature. Attached wires to thermal fuse, inserted fuse into bracket, slid bracket onto clip on side of box that housed the heater element, reinstalled heater elememt, inserted long screw into heater element hole and tightened snugly. Extra to ensure proper air flow: Then removed wires from door switch on fron panel (labeled them), removed 2 screws at top of from panel, tilted and lifted front panel off, removed blower cover, cleaned all duct work from blower to exit of unit, sealed plastic duct that was attached to front panel. It had loose gaskets that allowed air to be drawn in from the sides and not through the duct thus bypassing the drum and heater element. Reattached blower cover, lowered and tilted front cover into place, reattached top 2 corner screws, reattached switch wires, lowered top. Plugged in and tested.
Note the Partselect sales person told me that the LA-1053 kit contained 3 items, however, it only came with the fuse, not the thermostats. Foutunately, only my fuse was shot.

After I unplugged the unit, I used a flat screwdriver to pop the top open at the front, then tipped it back on the hinge. I then used a multi-meter to test resistance through any switch or safety device I could find. The thermal fuse was the hardest one to get to and was the only one that showed open, having no resistance. I had to remove the screw that holds the heating element in place and carefully slide the element out of the way. The fuse is held in place by a metal strip or retainer and it has to be lifted up and right as you remove it. Unplug the wires from the old fuse and put in the new one. Then reverse the order of dis-assembly, plug it in and away you go, as long as that is the only issue, which mine was.

Turn the power off to the dryer. Pushed the two retaining clips that held the top of the dryer to the dryer sides. One on each side of the front. Table knife works really well to do this. Lift the top of the dryer up all the way. You will see the heating elements in the rear center of the dryer. There will be one screw holding the heating elements in place. Once you remove the wires from the heating element and remove the screw the heating element will lift out. Remove the heating elements and set down somewhere they will not get damaged. On the side the screw came out of there will be the heat fuse (as Maytag calls it). Remove the retainer by picking straight up on the retainer and the fuse will come out with the retainer. Remove the wires and replace the fuse and reinstall in reverse order.

I applied the excellent description of accessing and fixing the drier givenby others. When the second fusible link opened, I consulted the Repair Forum. Denman, an obviously experienced responder, walked me through the diagnostics.

I did not ask denman's permission to pass on his recommendations so they may or may not apply to your situation. Heere

"Here are your parts with a wiring diagram
Maytag YE225LV

With the unit apart and drum/belt removed and thermal fuse wires shorted together the motor should run. You also have to tape or hold the door switch closed. I would also disconnect and tape up one of the wires going to the heater coil as it will overheat. Never leave the thermal fuse shorted as the unit can cause a house fire without it.

Be very careful that everything is well taped up so you do not get a short.
You have 220 volts in the unit which is very dangerous.

The motor should manually turn easily from the pulley end.
The ding from the fan indicates that there is a problem here. Check it carefully.
Here is a good site
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st
Check out the Maytag Dependable Care section / 26 -motor problems / "Check this out" at the bottom of the page

Normally your high limit safety thermostat should open before the thermal fuse blows.
When you ran your test did you run it on fluff (no heat) at first?

I would remove and check the heater for a grounded element.
Depending where it breaks/shorts it can be on high heat all the time with the thermostats having no control of it.
From your description this would be my prime suspect!!"

My observations:

1 the reference above is to applianceaid.com, which had useful tips. Tip #4 was washing the filter screen with detergent, as it holds an invisible layer of residual lint.

3. When cleaning, disconnect front panel, take out filter and clean the cavity behind the filter. I used a garden hose and large volumes of lint came out.

Now I am scheduling full clean out at least annually, including washing screen and inside door.

2. since thermal fuses are designed to open when overheated, it is hard to test if they work or not. (They test continuous at room temperature.)

3. at Denman's subsequent suggestion, I replaced the thermal fuse past the blower. (There is a thermal fuse ahead of the heating elements and the elements heated, so it is a less logical failure candidate.)

System working fine. The help was worth as much as the parts!

After using a voltage meter I tracked it to the thermal fuse. In order to get to the fuse you have to remove the heating element. However when I replaced the heating element I didn't check to make sure that the heating wires weren't touching the metal housing it sits in. So when I turned on the dryer I burned out the element and had to purchase another one so a simple repair became much more expensive. Since the thermal fuse is what blew initially I made sure to clean out the vent from the lint trap all the way to the outside vent. It was pretty dirty and probably caused the unit to get too hot and blow the fuse.