Part Location Diagram of WP339956 Whirlpool Lint Trap Housing Seal
See part 24 in the diagram
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Lint Trap Housing Seal
( Grid squares measure 1x1 inch )
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Lint Trap Housing Seal WP339956

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8 Reviews

Rated by 12 customers 

Easy 

1- 2 hours 

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PartSelect Number PS11741506
Manufacturer Part Number WP339956
Manufactured by Whirlpool
Product Description

Lint Trap Housing Seal Specifications

This is foam seal for your dryer. It forms a seal to prevent air from escaping the rear of the dryer drum and the lint duct. This model comes with adhesive backing and is located in between the lint chute and the bulkhead of your appliance. This foam seal is just over 28 inches long and under 1 inch wide. You may need to replace this part if your clothing is taking too long to dry, or if your dryer is not generating enough heat or no heat at all.
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Part Videos

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Lint Trap Housing Seal

Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Lint Trap Housing Seal
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Too hot
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo, Microwave, Microwave Oven Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Kenmore, Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Roper.
Part# WP339956 replaces these:
AP6008371, 311956, 339956, 4319308
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Customer Reviews
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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.0 / 5.0, 12 reviews. What's this?
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The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had covered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.

Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.

While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.

Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:

I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.

The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.

The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.

The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.

The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.

The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.

Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.

With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.

The front of the dryer was attached .

The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.

The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.

The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.

The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.

Great parts and support Thankyou
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4"
  • Benjamin from WELLS, ME
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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The dryer took at least 3 rounds to dry light clothes and 4-5 for towels.
This was my second time making repairs. The only difference this time I replaced all parts from top to bottom. When I pulled the heating element out only one coil was working the others had burned out. It was easy to do and the videos on the site are very helpful and informative. I followed the steps and if I thought I missed a step I replayed it again. I am a woman and found it very easy and not at all intimidating at all. I am going to hopefully have it for another 10 yrs. You guys keep up the good work.
Other Parts Used:
Timer - 230V 60Hz Push-To-Start Switch Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat Heating Element - 240V 5400W Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Stacey from CHUNCHULA, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful.
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Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal
  • Stephen from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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No heat on any applicable settings
Cleaned entire unit, replaced all thermostat assemblies and exhaust seal
Other Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Cycling Thermostat Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • Russell from LOUISVILLE, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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chute wore out
I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal CHUTE
  • Robert from MACON, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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The drum would not rotate because power was not being applied to the motor.
Replaced the non-resettable thermal fuse because mine was open circuit (one screw). While I had it apart, I also replaced the thermostat for internal-bias (one screw) because a bad thermostat can make the fuse blow again. During disassembly, I found the lint trapping housing seal was worn. It is just a cheap piece of open cell foam weatherstripping with one sticky side where it attaches to the back of the painted surface of the rear cabinet. To replace that, you just peel up the old seal which was loose and deformed. Stick down a new seal with a little more care than the factory originally did.
Other Parts Used:
Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Thermal Fuse Dryer Cycling Thermostat
  • SEAN from ANDERSON, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was getting too hot, metallic burning smell
To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.

Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing the heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked!
There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.

My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place.
I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off.
It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.

The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer High Limit Thermostat Lint Trap Housing Seal Heating Element - 240V 5400W
  • Hayley from ALEXANDRIA, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer would run with no heat
I watched all the videos with Steve. He was very helpful in his presentation of the repairs. Due to the age of the dryer every thing was replaced and was very easy to do. Thank you Steve and PartSelect for making these repairs possible and easy
Other Parts Used:
Seal and Bearing Idler Pulley Assembly SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Rear Drum Felt Seal Rear Drum Support Roller Kit Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Two-Piece Split Ring Bearing
  • Gary from MOUNDSVILLE, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful.
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Motor failure
Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew with reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.
Other Parts Used:
Dryer Blower wheel SEAL Lint Trap Housing Seal Blower Motor Shaft Seal Front Top Lock Drive Motor with Pulley
  • James from COTTONWOOD, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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flame fadedout after unit got hot; problem turned out to be the solenoid coils
removed frt & rear panels & drum and lint chute for seal replacement replaced these components, problem didn't go away, ordered & replaced both gas valve coils (m series coil kit) problem solved
Other Parts Used:
SEAL Multi Rib Belt - 92-1/4" Lint Trap Housing Seal Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor
  • David from Adkins, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers

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Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Chris
November 12, 2019
How thick is this seal ? I know on your description it says it's a little over 28 inches long and just under 1 inch wide. I was just wanted to know how thick it was , as in the depth between the two parts
For model number LER4634EQ2
PartSelect logo
Hello Chris and thanks for writing. The thickness is about 1/2 inch . We hope this helps. Please contact us at any time

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Leslie
January 5, 2022
Is this seal flammable?
PartSelect logo
Hello Leslie, Thank you for the question. This is foam seal so if it came in contact with flame, it would catch fire. We hope this helps!

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Tanya
July 5, 2023
Is this compatible with Whirlpool YLTE6234D05? The lint trap housing is in the front of the dryer unlike the demonstration in the video here.
For model number YLTE6234D05
PartSelect logo
Hello Tanya, thank you for your question! The part you mentioned is not compatible with your model number. The correct lint duct seal for your model is part number PS11741454. We hope this information is useful!

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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS11741506
Manufacturer Part Number: WP339956
Brand
Model Number
Description
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11060612990
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1106062110
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11060622990
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