This is foam seal for your dryer. It forms a seal to prevent air from escaping the rear of the dryer drum and the lint duct. This model comes with adhesive backing and is located in between the lint chute and the bulkhead of your appliance. This foam seal is just over 28 inches long and under 1 inch wide. You may need to replace this part if your clothing is taking too long to dry, or if your dryer is not generating enough heat or no heat at all.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Lint Trap Housing Seal
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★★★★★
★★★★★
Travis K - May 22, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy Repair
The part came quickly and the repair, working with the video, went quickly and was exactly what was needed.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Susana R - January 17, 2019
Verified Purchase
Mail on time
The part was in good condition with link for video to how to replace it I did it fast and easy
Thanks
★★★★★
★★★★★
John T - December 27, 2018
Verified Purchase
easy install
The on line instructions were simple and installation was easy and it is preforming as it should,
delivery was set for 5-7 days....I got it in 14, no explanation.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Peggy J - November 13, 2018
Verified Purchase
Crumbling seals found when cleaning inside of dryer
I was upset when cleaning dryer that I could not put dryer back together because the lint trap seal and blower seal were disintegrated. I placed an order with part select...and I had my parts in two days. A lot faster than expected. Parts worked great and my dryer is back up and running.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Ajay P - November 7, 2018
Verified Purchase
Arrived on time
Arrived as promised (time, quality, etc.) So partselect did it's job well. It seems poorly designed part by OEM in the first place. Meh.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Gary B - September 26, 2018
Verified Purchase
Much too slow
Took very long time to get this simple part. Did not wait. Got it from a competitor beforehand with 2-day shipping time.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Barb R - August 15, 2018
Verified Purchase
Easy repair - worked as it should
So glad we have your site for these parts! Fantastic service
★★★★★
★★★★★
David C - July 17, 2018
Verified Purchase
Quality part
Good quality part, fit well, easy install.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.1 / 5.0, 13 reviews.
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Dryer heating up but clothes not drying
Removed back and then removed lint slide. Vacuumed all of the cabinet and and washed lint chute. Blower seal and lint seals were crumbling since dryer is 24 years old. Part Select diagrams and repair videos are extremely helpful in showing the process. Dryer now working like new.
The dryer belt broke. During the effort to replace the belt it was noted that the lint trap housing seals were in need of replacement.
With the dryer taken apart to replace the broken belt it was obvious that the lint seals had not been working properly due to the excessive amount of lint covering all of the inside surfaces of the dryer. The belt idler pully had also moved from its normal mounting position and was laying at the bottom of the dryer. Because the lint had c
... Read moreovered the bottom before the belt broke it was obvious to determine where the idler pully attached to the bottom.
Before cleaning I marked the exact location where the idler pully mounted to the bottom of the dryer.
While waiting for the replacement parts to be delivered a vacuum cleaner was used to remove lint from the inside surfaces of the dryer as well as the old fragments of the lint trap housing seals were removed and surfaces where the new seals would attach were cleaned.
Assembling the dryer with the new belt was a challenge due to the lack of support for the drum while getting the new belt in place, lined up properly, threaded through the idler pully and attached to the motor drive shaft. This is how I installed the new belt:
I used a piece of wood wider than the sides of the dryer, drilled holes that allowed for a piece of cloths line rope to be looped through and used to support the door opening end of the drum.
The drum was set on the seal and rollers at the back of the dryer.
The temporary wood /rope hanger was placed at the front end of the dryer resting on the sides with the top of the dryer raised.
The rope was adjusted until the drum rested on the back rollers and the rope like it would be positioned normally.
The new belt was then gently installed under the temporary support rope and around the drum.
The new belt had many kinks from shipping and was difficult to align with the location on the drum where it needs to ride so small strips of tape were temporarily used to hold the new belt in position until it could be fed through the idler pully and on to the drive shaft.
Several small pieces of a cardboard box were used to shim under the idler pully to hold it in its proper location as well as to make the belt attachment to the drive shaft easier.
With the belt attached, the temporary cardboard shims were removed from under the idler pully.
The front of the dryer was attached .
The temporary board and rope hanger was removed.
The tape that had been placed over the new belt to hold it in proper alignment was removed as the drum was rotated slowly by hand to ensure that all tape was removed prior to closing the top of the dryer.
The seals as well as the remainder of the dryer assembly was completed without any problems.
The dryer ran well for its initial trial spin and has dried several loads of laundry since.
The dryer took at least 3 rounds to dry light clothes and 4-5 for towels.
This was my second time making repairs. The only difference this time I replaced all parts from top to bottom. When I pulled the heating element out only one coil was working the others had burned out. It was easy to do and the videos on the site are very helpful and informative. I followed the steps and if I thought I missed a step I re
... Read moreplayed it again. I am a woman and found it very easy and not at all intimidating at all. I am going to hopefully have it for another 10 yrs. You guys keep up the good work.
Poor drying and took excessive amount of time to complete partially dried loads
Took back cover off. Cleaned out the lint that had built up inside the dryer. Replaced the lint trap housing and lint chute seals. Also replaced the drying vent hose. Works great now.
I never received my part checked back after said hearing part had been shipped was told part was no longer available have called twice about my refund and not received that either
The drum would not rotate because power was not being applied to the motor.
Replaced the non-resettable thermal fuse because mine was open circuit (one screw). While I had it apart, I also replaced the thermostat for internal-bias (one screw) because a bad thermostat can make the fuse blow again. During disassembly, I found the lint trapping housing seal was worn. It is just a cheap piece of open cell foam wea
... Read moretherstripping with one sticky side where it attaches to the back of the painted surface of the rear cabinet. To replace that, you just peel up the old seal which was loose and deformed. Stick down a new seal with a little more care than the factory originally did.
To replace the thermostat and heating element, I followed the video from PartSelect.
Before buying the parts, I had already taken my machine apart to clean it and check for lint build up, but there was only a bit of dust, no major blockages. Because the burning smell was metallic, I just had my fingers crossed that replacing t
... Read morehe heating element and thermostat would do the trick. It worked! There is an odd ceramic sort of smell in the first 5 minutes of using the new element but that went away and all is working well at this point.
My components looked slightly different from those on the video; I had fewer wires so I just took photos of everything before I started to make sure I put it all back in the correct place. I had to watch another video on how to easily remove the thermostat, mine was stuck. I just used a flat head screw driver behind it like a lever and gently pried it off. It took me about 30 minutes total only because I had to watch a couple of extra YouTube videos due to the differences of my machine. I don’t usually do repairs like this one and wanted to be completely sure I was doing it correctly, but the work/repair itself was super easy.
The lint trap seal was just because mine got damaged when I took it apart to clean it. I just pulled the old one off, made sure the old adhesive was completely removed, (it peeled off like scotch tape), I cleaned it, then I slowly went around the edge of the vent/housing and stuck the new foam seal down. No video required, just common sense.
I watched all the videos with Steve. He was very helpful in his presentation of the repairs. Due to the age of the dryer every thing was replaced and was very easy to do. Thank you Steve and PartSelect for making these repairs possible and easy
Used this resource and others' advice -thank you . Make sure to disconnect power first. I had replaced the rollers and tensioner a week earlier due to squeaking, but mine was the rare one where squeaking meant motor failure, so I had to place another parts order. The dryer was 19 years old, and my blower wheel did not simply 'unscrew wi
... Read moreth reverse threads'. During removal the blower wheel's plastic deformed, so had to do like someone else did and cut the rear shaft with a reciprocating saw. Just be careful not to damage the bulkhead's built-in bracket that anchors the rear of the motor. I think it was a 13/16" wrench that fit the blower wheel and I forget the size for the pulley nut on the front of the motor, but I suggest a deep socket since it held well. My best advice when dealing with a motor replacement is to ensure the blower wheel wheel will separate successfully from the motor before placing your parts order should it be a stubborn removal. Good luck.
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3 questions answered by our experts.
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Chris
November 12, 2019
How thick is this seal ? I know on your description it says it's a little over 28 inches long and just under 1 inch wide. I was just wanted to know how thick it was , as in the depth between the two parts
For model number LER4634EQ2
Hello Chris and thanks for writing.
The thickness is about 1/2 inch . We hope this helps. Please contact us at any time
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Leslie
January 5, 2022
Is this seal flammable?
Hello Leslie, Thank you for the question. This is foam seal so if it came in contact with flame, it would catch fire. We hope this helps!
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Tanya
July 5, 2023
Is this compatible with Whirlpool YLTE6234D05? The lint trap housing is in the front of the dryer unlike the demonstration in the video here.
For model number YLTE6234D05
Hello Tanya, thank you for your question! The part you mentioned is not compatible with your model number. The correct lint duct seal for your model is part number PS11741454. We hope this information is useful!
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