Dryer Radiant Flame Sensor WP338906

I used a multi meter to find coils failed in warmed temperature condition.
I tested main switch for different cycle operation. Main switch was worn out inside and not making good contact for soft cycles.
This dryer is 25 years old. I chose to replace all the sensors, fuses, ignitor, gas valve coils, cycle switch and thermostat.
This was cost effective for me, because now, I actually have a good dryer that might just last another 25 years. I might replace the drive belt soon. I'll order from Parts Select. This was easy and fun. Thanks!

Removed lower and upper panel on front of dryer, realized I did not have to remove upper but it was better visually. I replaced coils using old cage replacing two coils paying attention to position. Next I replaced cycling thermostat and boosting heater (which piggy back). Lastly I replaced Radiant flame sensor (which was working, but old).
Everything worked perfect for a little over a hundred dollars, a repair person would have cost me $ 75 to $ 80 dollars for a handshake plus parts and labor. I am very pleased.

In my case, it was the solenoids. Take off the top be removing two screws on back, then slide the top back and off. Then remove little screws on top that hold the plastic bar with the electronic controls. This very easily will pop up, don’t unplug it, just lay it aside on top of machine. Under this you can see the white metal piece that contains the door. This whole piece comes off with the door in place. Look for four screws across the top, remove em. Then open the door, there are two facing out about 10 inches apart. Remove em. Now slide whole door out (sort of a hinge on the bottom) from the top. After it pops out from the tops, lean it out about 1 foot then pull up hard. It comes off at the bottom. Gently unplug the door, you will see the wire to unplug. I used a small screwdriver to gently pry the plug apart to get it started. After the front panel is removed, you can see the gas valve lower right. On top of the gas valve which is about 5 inches by 5 inches, you will two black cylinders on top of it. Cylinders that are 1.5 inches tall and about 1 inch wide. These are your solenoids. These create an electromagnetic field that opens the gas valve. There is a silver colored piece of metal on top of them holding them in place with two screws on top. Take this cover off the two black solenoids (Black cylinders). Then remove the cylinders after gently unplugging them. Do not just pull on the wires. Use an ohm meter to test the old ones after you slide them up and off what looks like a silver post. There are two metal tabs on one where the plug plugs onto it. Set your ohm meter for 1000 and touch the two metal tabs. Your meter should say there IS a circuit. If your meter says there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. The other solenoid has threee tabs. Hold your solenoid with the metal plugs down and the cylinder is standing upright. Have the three prongs facing you. The prong on the left as you face the solenoid it is your common. Touch this prong and then with the other wire touch the middle prong. You need to see a circuit that is closed, or connected. If there is no circuit your solenoid is bad. Now touch your two testing wires on the two outside prongs. You still need to see a circuit. If no circuit you have bad solenoid. Replace em. The solenoids die slowly over years. Your dryer will start to take longer to dry. This is sign of dying solenoids. To the left of the gas valve you can see the sensors that determine if the air coming out of the dryer is damp or dry. Replace them at the same time. Where you are the burner, on the left of the 5 inch wide tube it is in you will see a sensor, rectangle shape 2 inch by 1 inch. This determines if the lighter is glowing. Replace it at this same time. On top of the burner tube, top right, hard to reach, there is another sensor that shuts it all down if it is over heating. There are two wires plugged into it. Use a MAGNETIC and very short philips head to remove it. Slowly, don’t drop the screws. Pull the whole sensor out while plugged in, then unplug it using a screw driver to help get it started unplugging. When the new sensor goes in, screw it on place first. Do not try to screw the new one in with wires on it. It is not easy, but you can do it. Use a small flash light etc to help see. Once screwed on, plug in your wires. It does not matter which wire goes on which end. So after you replace all your sensors (4 total) and you replaced those two round black solenoids, you can put it all back together.

Do not buy cheap piece of sh-t parts. The cheap ones are made in China with short cuts, low quality metal and ceramics. Cheap. Use authentic Maytag parts, each sensor should be like $30. I replaced all of mine for $180. I now have a brand new unit as far as the electronics are concerned, good for another 10 years.

Replaced the flame sensor and the igniter. Probably didn’t need the igniter but put in anyway. Saved old igniter for a later time just in case it burns out.

The video on partselect was for an electric dryer, mine is gas. The video said to reach the thermal fuse to go in through the back of the dryer but to get to my thermal fuse we had to take the panel on the front lower section of the dryer off. Then after that was taken off, we had to take the big black housing off. The fuse was located behind the big black plastic housing. Once located, it was easy .

The hardest part was figuring out how to access the dryer mechanism. This Amana dryer has a lower front panel that is removed and not the top. There are few instructions available for this configuration. Then the part locations do not resemble the video instructions for trouble shooting. I discovered the broken part because when fiddling with the wire connections the metal tab disconnected due to fatigue or corrosion. Removing, identifying and replacing the flame sensor was quite simple. The dryer now works as before. The dryer is 23 years old. The most time in this repair was spent figuring out how to disassemble and identify a different configuration than in the videos.

Unplug dryer. Removed the screws on the right hand hinge, lift and remove the door, remove the screws in the left-hand side, slide top of front cover out and lift off of metal tabs and set aside. Used a small Shop-Vac to clear any dust or lint from the appliance housing. Un-clipped quick disconnect connectors from the igniter, flame sensor and coils. Loosened but did not remove screw holding igniter slid igniter coil off following slot in igniter coil. Unscrewed top bracket screw to flame sensor, slid other end out of tab in slot, bracket must be slightly bent to remove old and insert new. Unscrewed top brackets to coil. Warning assembly screws were installed extremely tight had to break them free using small vice grips so phillips heads would not strip, enough clearance to gain purchase on the sides of the screws head with small vice grips. Place new coils into slots and screwed brace back into place. slid new igniter coil onto the existing screw, inserted metal tab into assembly for heat sensor, new part came with replacement bracket. tightened all screws. reconnected quick connectors to all 3 parts. reversed process of cover disassembly to reassemble and reinstall door. plugged dryer back in. fix successful consistent heat restored.

I thought it had to be the igniter so I replaced that part. The dryer still did not start. I replaced the high limit and hoorah dryer works. Two weeks go by, the dryer is drying the clothes but my wife smells gas in the laundry room. I replaced the coil pak on the gas valve. My wife says she still smells gas. I replaced the radiant flame sensor and no gas smell for 2 weeks now.

Took the old parts out and installed the new parts in , everything that you sent fit perfect!!!!!

I started by changing the part that had the highest percentage to solve this problem , the top three didn't work , the fourth part, the disposable thermostat, and the last one that could be done from the front worked.