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11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias
11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-2-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-3-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/RSDYZ2AA.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

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PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
Manufactured by Whirlpool

A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Amana, Admiral, Magic Chef, Jenn-Air.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will not shut off.
  • Will not tumble.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?

Kealan
Answer:

Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

7 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?

Leo
Answer:

Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.

Dylan
Answer:

Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem

Jerry for model number Ler7646ez2
Answer:

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.

Danny for model number EED4400WQ0
Answer:

Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Timer - 60Hz
2 people found this helpful.
Question:

I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. Are both the large and small post suppose to show conductivity?

paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for the question.The two large terminals on the thermostat should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

2 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is taking forever to dry, usually 80-90 minutes for a regular size load. It seems to get hot, but I'm not sure if it is shutting off too soon. I replaced the internal bias thermostat, but it's still not drying properly. I have also checked for blockages and cleaned the back of the dryer and the vent system as well. What part would likely need to be replaced next? Thanks!

Brandy for model number WED5100VQ1
Answer:

Hi Brandy, Thank you for the question. If the appliance is still getting heat but not drying in the proper amount of time you might not be getting enough heat. I suggest testing the element with a multi meter. PartSelect Number PS334313. The element should test between 9-12 ohms. If the you do not get the reading between 9-12 ohms then you have a defective element.If you check for continuity the meter will beep, if you do not get a beep then the element is defective. Hope this helps!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

How do you test thermostat internal-bias

vic for model number lgr4634pq0
Answer:

Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a difference between the part number 3387134 that has a label that's says 250v and the original part that says on it 125v? Will it over heat with the higher voltage t stat?

Roger
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. That part number is the same part as the the one we have on our website. The manufacturer just updated the part number with a WP at the beginning. You should have no problems with this part. If you want to be sure that this part goes to your machine, try searching with the model number of your appliance and see the parts listed. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. I have i done this correctly and if so is the thermostat good or bad?

Paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for your inquiry. If the internal bias thermostat is not showing conductivity then you may have to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

So i had too much heat and no air dry/ cool down. After inspection i found heater short to housing. I temporarily moved it back in place and adjusted the ceramic holder and reinstalled. Now i don’t have any readings from heater terminals to case but now i have no heat at all. ??

Steven for model number 11096272100
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the internal bias thermostat, the heating element, the heater element connection wire, the high limit thermostat, the belt, the door catch and strike and the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Most Recent

Question:

Could a bad thermostat cause my dryer to run too hot and not go in to air dry/ cool down “mode/cycle?

Steven for model number 11096272100
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Thermostat, Internal-Bias,PartSelect Number PS11741405.A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. Hope this helps!

Question:

Dryer runs a short while with heat and tumble, but then shuts off. How can i confirm problem is thermal fuse or thermostat, but not the motor causing overheating?

tony for model number LGR7647EQ2
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the drive motor, the electronic control board, the timer, the door switch and the dryer catch and strike. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My dryer doesn't heat up. I replace the thermal fuse and it still doesn't get hot. So what is the problem?

Rene for model number LGR4634EQ3
Answer:

Hi Rene, Thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause the issue. I would suggest checking your m series coils, thermostats, radiant flame sensor, and your igniter. You can test all of those parts with a multimeter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Question:

My dryer cycles between 120 and 160f no matter what the temperature selection (high, medium or low). If I stick wires into the back of the temperature switch connector (contact with the only 2 wires violet and blue going to the switch) I measure 0.0 ohms for low, 6,200 ohms for medium (same resistance as the resistor jumped in), and infinite resistance for high heat. The wiring diagram says the resistance should be 10 ohms Max for low heat and 10,000 ohms min for high, so I think it is working. The internal bias thermostat reads 0 ohms across the big leads and 7,100 ohms across the small, which I believe indicate it is fine. What should I do now?

Roger for model number WED4800XQ1
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for the question, I suggest checking the Thermal Cut-Off Kit,PartSelect Number PS334299.This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees).The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. Hope this helps!

Question:

This dryer works the whole cycle, but still the cloths are wet and cold. No heat. One time this had happened I had replaced fuse.

Abe for model number WED5530SQ0
Answer:

Hi Abe, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Thermal Fuse.When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

Dryer stopped working. I replaced the thermal fuse. Dryer worked fine one time and stopped working again. I replaced the thermal fuse again and vacuumed the duct work inside the dryer and dryer pipe leading outside. Pipe is solid not Flex pipe. Again after one load the fuse blew. Could this be the heat sensor unit?

Jim Heinold for model number keys677ezo
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is constantly blowing fuses, it sounds like an issue with a circuit breaker on your electrical box and you may have to have an electrician examine it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My Roper dryer runs but doesn't heat. Will this correct the problem?

Roger
Answer:

Hello Roger, thank you for contacting us. Yes, that could cause this issue, there is usually a few of these in a dryer that can be tested with a multi-meter, as well you can check the heating element. Good luck with the repair!

Question:

My Crosley dryer will heat for twenty minutes than shut down the rest of the cycle. I can go and start the dryer again and it will repeat the process. I have installed a new fuse and coils. I now think it may be the internal thermostat. Any suggestions

Donna
Answer:

Hello Donna, thank you for contacting us. A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. Hope this helps!

Question:

I already replaced the fuse.The door switch,but it will not start.So I wanted to check the timer.How.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hi Karen, Thank you for the question, This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. You will need to use a multi meter if you wish to test the timer. Hope this helps!

Question:

How do you check the timer switch,everything else checked out good. My dryer will not start.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hello Karen, thank you for contacting us. If the dryer will not start and nothing works the most common part for that would be the thermal fuse PS11741460. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

My dryer would get too hot and overheat. I would need to turn it off to cool down and restart. We replaced the thermostat, and internal-bias and thermal cut-off kit(but my husband did not use the new red wire in the kit) dryer worked fine for a few minutes with heat and now no heat at all. Suggestions? Thanks

Tracie for model number LTE6234DQ0
Answer:

Hi Tracie, Thank you for your inquiry. If your husband did not use the red wire in the thermal cut-off kit, that may be causing the issue. I would also check the heater to see if that is working correctly as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 148 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: JOHN from TULSA, OK

Dryer wouldn't start

removed the back panel as described in the tutorial. then removed the two parts as the repairman described, it took maybe 10 minutes beginning to end. Dryer works like a charm now.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: BRENTON from PITTSBURG, NH

Would not start

Thermal fuse open so I changed that and the thermostat to make sure it would cycle the heat.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Sherry from TUJUNGA, CA

Clothes taking too long to dry.

The dryer was igniting when initially starting load, but didn't light again the rest of the cycle. On my model the access was through the front panel, didn't even have to pull dryer out. Open the door and there are two screws on each side.of the inside of frame. Remove screws and lift door off the the whole front of the pulls out and down and removes, and everything is right there to work on. Replaced thermostat, that took 5 min. But didn't fix the problem. So I purchased and replaced the "M" Series New Style Coil Kit, took about 10 min. I took olm/continuity readings b/t all terminals of the old and new coils and they were only about 5% difference, the old being a little lower. But that fixed the problem, works like new again.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers
Customer: Vito from Levittown, NY

Dryer wouldnt turn on.

Followed the instructions in the video provided on the partselect website. The video's instructions were excellent. Simple removed the back comver of the dryer, located the parts and replaced them. It would have cost me at least $500 for a new dryer. At least $150 to have a repair man come. I did this repair myself for $45!! I highly recommend partselect.com.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: David from Green River, WY

Taking a long time to dry clothes

Replaced heating element, thermostats and fuse, cleaned dryer vent shafts and it is now working like when it was new.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Brett from amanda, OH

Dryer wasnt drying very well

I took the back off 1st put the element and thermostats in... 2nd I took the front off the dryer and replaced the belt.....3rd I blew out all the lint and dust and then put it back together it was a cake walk...I want to add that the parts arrived extremely "FAST" and "ACCURATE"... which made the job that much easier.....

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5 of 13 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Donald from Lusby, MD

The dryer stopped heating. I removed the back of the dryer to find a fried thermostat and wire.

I went on partsselect.com's web site, punched in the model number and easily found the parts I needed. Parts arrived in two days. Repairs went well, especially when my wife was my tool assistant! I recommend this site as a must for do it yourself repairs that will save you a lot of money.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: charles from waukesha, WI

Dryer would heat up once on a full hour cycle

i took a stab that it was the thermostat,but it wasn't.after finding out it was the coils i purchased them and lifted the top of the dryer and undid two screws in the upper front of the dryer and lifted the front off all while holding the tub in place.The coils are located in the very front left of the dryer,i took the holder bracket off,disconnected the wires and replaced the coils(they just sit on a rod)dryer works like new and thanks to the new thermostat also gets hotter,i'm guessing that was next.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Lyndon from Bloomington, IN

The dryer wouldn't heat at all.

I read troubleshooting tips from other users of this website. This website had all the information I needed to accomplish the repair.

I unplugged the dryer, then tipped it onto its front. I then used a nut driver to remove the dryer backing. After removing the dryer backing, I used the same nut driver to remove the heating element cover since it was the part I initially suspected. The same size nut driver worked on all the parts.

Per recommendations I read on the site, the first thing I did was a continuity check on the heating element. It was good. After reviewing some input from this site, the next best step seemed to be replacing the Cycling Thermostat. I ordered and installed it, but it didn't fix the problem. The cool thing? PartSelect.com got me the part within a couple of days. So, I came back to PartsSelect.com and ordered the next two cheapest parts (ordered two parts at once to save on shipping and handling). The parts came within 4 days. I used the Thermal Cut-Off Kit in its entirety and the problem was fixed! THANK YOU PARTSSELECT.

Here's an impact statement: The day after the dryer had stopped working, I called a repair shop. They told me that if they came out that day, the cost would be $85, plus parts, plus labor. I figured that would run around $140 - $150. Total for PartSelect.com? Around $60 (including shipping and handling) -- and I didn't even use all the parts I ordered.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: richard from media, PA

Dryer stopped heating

Went to literature for info only to find that there was no electrical schematic or part numbers given for repair. Disconnected vent and removed back (6 hexhead screws). Removing and testing my parts then matching the parts with pictures found on parts select and using the numbers found on the parts, was able to order a new thermal fuse and also replace the cycling thermostat. Tested the unit, replaced the back with screws, cleaned & connected the vent then went on to start dirtying more clothes.

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2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Joseph from Mountain Top, PA

Dryer would not run

First I checked for power at the outlet (240volts-power good). I then removed 9 screws holding the back cover. I then turned the timer to run position and pushed the start button this allowed me to hear the timer andvance. So I disconnected power to the dryer and removed the wires to the thermal fuse. I then took a ohms reading across the fuse...it showed open. Removed one screw replaced fuse.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Socket set
Customer: sheldon from macon, GA

Dryer want heat up

they sent the wrong part . when i got the right part i removed the two screws holding the element . took the Thermostat out . removed the plugs . put the new thermostat in plug in the plugs. screwed the element back in place . And now i need to replace the fuse located at the top of the element casing.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Jonathon from AURORA, IN

Dryer only blowing high heat

The dryer was only blowing high heat, no matter what temperature selection I chose. I removed the back panel, matched up the parts, and replaced them. I did all of this in about 15 min, with a 1/4" nut driver. Piece of cake. I'm not sure which piece fixed my problem, but for $25 changing them both was worth it to me. While your back there I recommend cleaning out, or checking the dryer vent, just to be safe.

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1 of 2 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Mark from Mountain View, CA

Takes too long to dry

I was directed to the cycling thermostat for my problem. The thermal fuse was another possibility. I was too lazy to check them with a VOM before ordering so I ordered both. The repair video was helpful and the assembly diagram was useful for locating the parts. I removed the 9 back panel screws with a 1/4" socket wrench and removed the panel. Each part is held with a sheet metal screw which are removed with a screw driver. The connectors were very tight and I used pliers to pull them off the parts. The parts pop out of the mounting slots and are easily replaced and secured with the screws. I labelled all the wires (2 for the thermal fuse and 4 for the thermistor) but the polarity probably does not matter. I replaced the wires, replaced the back panel and replaced the 1/4" screws. The dryer works again. I checked the old parts with a VOM and found that only the cycling thermistor was bad, so now I have a spare thermal fuse.

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2 of 5 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Customer: kenneth from pacifica, CA

Flame would not stay lit

Replaced 2 thermostats, flame sensor, gas vale and solenoids. After each part was replaced, I started the dryer to see if the replaced part solved the problem. It did not, or so it seemed. Now, and this is important evidently: all the time I ran the tests post part replacement, the dryer was without the tumbler or any front end ducting in place. Out of frustration and a tickle of intuition, I reassembled the dryer, ran the test, and intuition proved itself as the dryer is working properly. My conclusion: You cannot run an accurate test result without the tumbler and ducting in place. I don't know why, but this seems to be necessary. new gas valve gave the dryer a much healthier flame.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
Brand Model Number Description
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