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Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP3387134
Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP3387134 Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP3387134 Thermostat, Internal-Bias – Part Number: WP3387134 https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/Schematics/Maytag/RSDYZ2AA.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

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PartSelect Number PS11741405

Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134

Manufactured by Whirlpool

A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, it could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Crosley, Estate, Amana, Inglis, Admiral, Magic Chef, Jenn-Air

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo

This part fixes the following symptoms: No heat or not enough heat | Takes too long to dry | Will Not Start | Timer will not advance

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

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Question:

I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?

Kealan
July 20, 2017
Answer:

Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem

Jerry for model number Ler7646ez2
July 26, 2017
Answer:

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Question:

My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.

Dylan
July 20, 2017
Answer:

Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

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Question:

My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?

Leo
July 20, 2017
Answer:

Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

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Question:

Greetings, i recently replaced the thermal fuse, cleared the venting ducts, etc. The dryer started up right away, i thought all was well. However, the next day my daughter informed me that her dryer had stopped working again after drying a tablecloth for approximately 20 minutes. I suspect the thermostat is not cycling properly and is causing the dryer too overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Wondering if i should replace the thermostat and the thermal fuse(again). Thank you very much.

Steve for model number IED4400VQ1
February 8, 2018
Answer:

Hello Steve, thank you for your question. I would recommend changing the fuse, as well as the Thermostat, Internal-Bias WP3387134. This thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If the thermostat isn't turning off, the unit will overheat and the fuse will blow. I hope this helps!

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Question:

How do you test thermostat internal-bias

vic for model number lgr4634pq0
August 28, 2017
Answer:

Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

How many ohms should the thermostat read when tested with a multi-meter?

Paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
November 2, 2017
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for your question. Your meter should be set at the lowest setting. The thermostat should read 0 ohms. If your meter does not move when you test the part, it will have to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

My dryer is not heating. Trouble shooting leads me to the internal-bias thermostat. Testing with an ohm meter shows continuity between the large terminals and open between the small terminals. Should the small ones read continuity or some resistance reading?

Marty for model number 110.70702990
November 30, 2017
Answer:

Hi Marty, Thank you for your question. Both sets of prongs should read 0 ohms at room temperature. If your meter needle does not move or your display does not change, the part is bad and will need to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

My dryer is taking forever to dry, usually 80-90 minutes for a regular size load. It seems to get hot, but I'm not sure if it is shutting off too soon. I replaced the internal bias thermostat, but it's still not drying properly. I have also checked for blockages and cleaned the back of the dryer and the vent system as well. What part would likely need to be replaced next? Thanks!

Brandy for model number WED5100VQ1
September 22, 2017
Answer:

Hi Brandy, Thank you for the question. If the appliance is still getting heat but not drying in the proper amount of time you might not be getting enough heat. I suggest testing the element with a multi meter. PartSelect Number PS334313. The element should test between 9-12 ohms. If the you do not get the reading between 9-12 ohms then you have a defective element.If you check for continuity the meter will beep, if you do not get a beep then the element is defective. Hope this helps!

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Question:

None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.

Danny for model number EED4400WQ0
October 9, 2017
Answer:

Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Timer - 60Hz
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Question:

Have seen 2 different answers about continuity on thermostat internal bias. One said both should read 0 at room temperature. The other said the small terminals will read an "ohm value". Which is correct?

Tony
August 3, 2018
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for the question. You would need to check the outer 2 terminals on the thermostat for continuity. If this checks ok then test the inner smaller terminals for resistance of 4.5K ohms. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Can blower thermostat be blown by hooking up wrong, got new one and now wont start,

jim for model number ldg9806aae
December 7, 2018
Answer:

Hello Jim, Thank you for the question. It could have caused a power surge and a short. I suggest testing it with a multi meter to check for continuity. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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Question:

I just purchased and replaced the thermostat internal-bias, but did not observe if the red wire is attached to the copper prong or if it the purple one is attached to copper prong. Your videos have been so helpful!! thank you

Toni for model number mdg9606aww
May 7, 2018
Answer:

Hi Toni, Thank you for the question. The purple wires go to the copper prongs. Good luck with the repair!

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Question:

My dryer recently would not heat and i found the upper level switch to be bad and replaced it. Now the timer is not advancing causing the dryer to not shut off. Is the thermostat what i need to buy?

Jason for model number Eed4400sq0
April 3, 2018
Answer:

Hello Jason, thank you for your question. If the timer is not advancing there are a few parts I would recommend checking before ordering. The Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134 as well as Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519. These parts are able to be tested with a multimeter for continuity. If the parts are tested and are not faulty the issue might be with the timer. However, this kind of timer very rarely goes bad, and when it does you should be able to manually move the timer a bit to continue on or change the cycle. I hope this helps!

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Question:

My Maytag dryer does not automatically stop. I have to manually stop the dryer. I replaced the timer but it did not solve the problem. Could it be the thermostat?

Reza for model number MDG8400AWW
November 13, 2017
Answer:

Hello Reza, Thanks for your question. There are several processes to go through when your dryer does not stop automatically. Be sure to check if the vent is clogged or partially clogged. The venting system should be cleaned once a year. Check the blower wheel as well for any obstructions and try to turn it by hand. If it wobbles as it turns, replace it. The correct blower wheel for your model will depend on your dryer's serial number. Part number PS2035614 is used for serial numbers beginning with 10 or 11, and part number PS11741126 is used for serial numbers beginning with 12 or higher. The gas valve coils, part number PS334310, should also be checked to see if they are igniting properly. See if the igniters glow for awhile and then shut off without the gas igniting. If that happens, it is worth replacing the coils. Test the heating element for continuity, and replace it if it does not show continuity. Check the lint filter to see if it is clogged and replace it if it is. Lastly, check the thermostats for continuity and replace them if they do not show continuity. I hope this helps.

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Question:

The "thermostat", internal bias breaks contact at temperature on test with multi meter, across the element line circuit. The other two terminals are open both when thermostat is in open or closed condition. I do not have a schematic for that thermostat. I assume that since it can affect the timer (which is what is not working on this unit) that these terminals are not acting as they should, hence may be causing the timer to not operate.Please advise.

Jerry for model number LER5636PQ0
October 23, 2017
Answer:

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. Sounds like the timer would need to be replaced. Not too sure about the thermostat effecting the timer. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Timer
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Question:

I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. Are both the large and small post suppose to show conductivity?

paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
October 9, 2017
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for the question.The two large terminals on the thermostat should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Question:

We have no heat on our Whirlpool electric dryer I've changed the thermal fuse, replaced cut off thermal and had heating elements tested. What should we check next?

Mike for model number WED4800BQ1
October 25, 2017
Answer:

Hi Mike, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Thermal Cut-Off Kit.The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees). These parts need to be replaced at the same time. I suggest cleaning the vent from the back of the appliance to the outside. These parts trip when there is poor air flow and the appliance over heats. The vents can get a build up of lint and water from the moisture and can block the air flow. If you have a flexible vent tubing, make sure there are no dips and it is laying flat and with support as they can bend and become blacked as well. Also make sure you take give the lint trap a good clean, down inside the appliance where the filter would fit into. Hope this helps!

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Question:

I just bought and replaced the thermostat, internal bias on my Kenmore gas dryer and shortly before that replaced the thermal fuse. Still the timer on my dryer will not automatically cycle. It stays in one spot and goes continually unless it decides to just stop but even then the dial does not move. Any other suggestions? Thanks bruce

Bruce Riley for model number 11072842100
February 16, 2018
Answer:

Hello Bruce, thank you for your question. If the thermostats are testing as being good, and the unit is functioning properly otherwise, the timer may be the issue. Sometimes the timer will not cycle through to the off position unless you manually turn the knob. You may want to replace the timer itself. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Hello, my dryer is not drying like it should. It takes multiple cycles to dry clothes. There is plenty of heat, but seems to be too much. Even on a low heat cycle, the temperature is the same as if on a high heat setting. Would this fix my problem?

BJ for model number RED4640YQ0
February 17, 2018
Answer:

Hello BJ, Thank you for your inquiry. It could be several parts, this one, the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat and the thermal cut off kit. You can test them with a multimeter to see if they have continuity. Hope this helps!

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Question:

The dryer runs fine for about 30 minutes (timed drying cycle) then turns off. When I try to turn the dryer back on it makes a buzzing sound. I have to wait about 15 minutes then it will run for another 30 minutes.

Richard for model number LGR4634EQ3
February 17, 2018
Answer:

Hello Richard, Thanks for your question. This type of situation typically arises from the motor. You may want to test it with a multimeter to see if it has continuity, and replace it if it shows no continuity or if the bearings are bad on it. I hope this helps.

Related Parts: Drive Motor with Pulley
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Question:

Recently ordered the thermostat(internal) the replacement part arrived. There is a blue dot on the thermostat body. Is that denoting the top or bottom orientation of the thermostat? I am asking this because I am not sure which tabs to attach the red wire only and the red wire with the white stripe. Any advice is greatly appreciated, unfortunately the old part doesn't have any markings on it.

Steve for model number IED4400VQ1
February 14, 2018
Answer:

Hi Steve, Thank you for the question. According to the manufacture the connector with the X on it is the bottom. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer heats a little then just blows cold air takes three cycles to dry. You think i should change the thermostat?

Bonnie
February 21, 2018
Answer:

Hello, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the appliance. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Question:

The electric dryer runs on high heat, even when the timer is set to "fluff air" cycle. The cycling thermostat appears to operate normally: The outer terminals are closed normally and open when heated, the inner terminals show 7.2k ohms normally and and heated. The timer unit was recently replaced, but that did not solve the problem. Is the problem with the heating element? Thanks!

Lance for model number LER6611LQ0
March 7, 2018
Answer:

Hi Lance, Thank you for your question. The dryer is getting to hot on a setting where high heat is not required, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the thermal fuse, the high limit thermostat, the heating element and the belt. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

I have no heat at any cycle on dryer. It first started with no heat on auto heat then the heat only cycle. Witch thermostat is not working ? Or are all? I inspected heating element, no brake in coil. Thank you for taking my questions.

Charlie for model number NED4600YQ0
March 14, 2018
Answer:

Hi Charlie, Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not heating, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal cut-off, the internal bias thermostat, the high limit thermostat, the heating element connection wires and the belt. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Works properly on high temps, timer and machine stops during cool down, and wont run fluff air

Bill for model number wed5100vq1
February 1, 2018
Answer:

Hi Bill, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the Internal Bias Thermostat and the Thermal Cut-Off Kit. You will need to use a Multi Meter to determine what part is defective. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer will not heat or dry on auto-sense dry (high heat) but it will heat on timed dry (high heat) is my switch bad?

Micheal Hall for model number CEDX631VQ1
February 5, 2018
Answer:

Hello Michael, thank you for your question. It does sound like your timer is bad. I would check the thermostats in the unit, first, to eliminate an issue with any of those parts. There are three thermostats I would recommend testing; Thermostat, Internal-Bias, Thermostat, High Limit 221 F and Thermal Cut-Off Kit. There are installation videos, and repair stories from other customers for each of these parts on our site. Thermostats are very easy to test: Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

I have replaced the thermal fuse and internal bias thermostat after they tested faulty and it still gets very hot. I tested all the other thermostats and they were getting continuity. The dryer also keeps heating if the door is open and the timer is still on. Any ideas because I’m out of them. Thanks

Brian for model number WED4800XQ0
February 6, 2018
Answer:

Hi Brian, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the timer. The time sends current to the element and tells it when to heat and when not to. If it is sending current with the door open it could be defective. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Hi, i just ordered a new cycling thermostat (part # wp3387134) for my dryer Maytag model lde9304ace. On the new thermostat it says "120 v htr" when i look at the wiring on my dryer it shows the two small connectors on the thermostat to be 240 volt. Is this the correct cycling thermostat for my dryer??? thanks, joe

Joe for model number LDE9304ACE
February 6, 2018
Answer:

Hi Joe, Thank you for the question. Yes, checking the model number provided you ordered the correct part. This is a manufacturer substitution. Part may differ in appearance but is a functional equivalent to prior parts. Hope this helps!

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Question:

After the dryer has stopped, and i have removed clothes from the dryer, the heat element sometimes stays on. In addition, i have found that sometimes the heat element comes back on when the dryer not even operating and after it had previously shut off when clothes are removed. Of course, now i pull the plug when i'm not using the dryer. Which parts do you suggest replacing? Thanks

Jim for model number AED4675YQ1
February 8, 2018
Answer:

Good Morning Jim, thank you for your question. If the heater is remaining on when the unit is not in use I would recommend checking your Door Switch, Thermostat, Internal-Bias, Thermal Cut-Off Kit and Thermostat, High Limit 221 F. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Hi my dryer ignites and heats sometimes other times it doesn't heat at all.We changed the thermal fuse. The dryer tumbles whether it's heating or not. What do you think we should check next? Thanks

Diane for model number RGX4634KQ2
October 26, 2017
Answer:

Hi Diane, Thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that you could check. I would suggest taking a look at your m series coils, your thermostats, your igniter, and your radiant flame sensor. You can test all of these parts with a multi meter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

My dryer runs for a few minutes and then shuts off. We checked all the vents and everything already. The inside gets pretty hot also. What part do you think this is?

Jessica for model number Medc400vw0
December 29, 2017
Answer:

Hi Jessica, Thank you for the question. If the vent and the vent tube is clear and you have vacuumed out the cabinet of the appliance, I suggest replacing the Internal-Bias Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS11741405.The thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. Hope this helps!

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Question:

How do I test a thermostat on a dryer.

Robert
January 16, 2018
Answer:

Hello Robert, Thank you for contacting us. With a multi meter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Question:

I checked the thermostat sensors and heating element as instructed in other posts and they all came back with no resistance on the ohm meter. The thermal bias came back with 2+ ohms of resistance. In one of your posts, you said 1 ohm, is this enough variance to cause a no heat scenario?

Charles for model number NED4700YQ0
January 17, 2018
Answer:

Hi Charles, Thank you for the question. Yes, if it is reading 2+ ohms it will need to be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer seems to be shutting off at seemingly random times. Sometimes it will run through half of the timed cycle and other times only 10-20 seconds. I think it is the thermal fuse based on this information. Is this most likely?

Peter Johnson for model number WP3392519
January 22, 2018
Answer:

Hello Peter, Thank you for your inquiry. The thermal fuse is designed to blow out if the temperature goes over a certain amount. You can test it with a multimeter to see if it is faulty. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Dryer does not start. I have checked with a voltage light that there is no power going to the push button start switch. Where should i go next?

Brandon for model number RED4440VQ1
November 2, 2017
Answer:

Hi Brandon, Thank you for your question. I would suggest checking the thermal fuse on your blower to see if that has blown or not. If that is fine, you should check your start switch and your door switch. You can test all of these parts with a multi meter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

I ordered and received the bias thermostat. The installation video demonstrates removing the back panel for access. My dryer does not have a back panel. The back and sides are all one piece. Where is the bias thermostat for my dryer?

Fred for model number LDG8704AAE
December 6, 2017
Answer:

Hello Fred, Thank you for your inquiry. The bias thermostat is located in the motor drive section at the back of the dryer. You may have to remove the entire back and side section in order to access the back of the dryer. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Unit runs but no heat and does not shut off.

Ray for model number LGR4634BQ1
December 14, 2017
Answer:

Hi Ray, Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not turning off, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat, the thermal fuse, the push-to-start switch, the lid switch, the door catch and strike, the dryer door switch actuator spring/lever, the timer, the coils and the motor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

How do you check the timer switch,everything else checked out good. My dryer will not start.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
August 24, 2017
Answer:

Hello Karen, thank you for contacting us. If the dryer will not start and nothing works the most common part for that would be the thermal fuse PS11741460. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
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Question:

Is there a difference between the part number 3387134 that has a label that's says 250v and the original part that says on it 125v? Will it over heat with the higher voltage t stat?

Roger
September 15, 2017
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. That part number is the same part as the the one we have on our website. The manufacturer just updated the part number with a WP at the beginning. You should have no problems with this part. If you want to be sure that this part goes to your machine, try searching with the model number of your appliance and see the parts listed. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

Is a cycling thermostat in the same place as on a gas dryer . As a electric dryer. As show on the video.

RON for model number 110.70022010
April 18, 2018
Answer:

Hello Ron, thank you for your question. The Thermostat, Internal-Bias WP3387134 on your appliance is located on the blower wheel housing of the appliance. It can be accessed by the back of the unit, and is in the same location on your unit, as it is in the video. I hope this helps!

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Question:

There is a switch called the end of cycle signal, under it it has an off and on button to cut the dryer. After pushing the on button the dryer does not run. When I open the door of the dryer light comes on, and when closing the door good and pushing the button the dryer does not come on. Can you help?

Andrew for model number WED4800XQ1
March 25, 2018
Answer:

Hello Andrew, Thanks for your question. There are a few different parts you will want to test with a multimeter to test for electrical continuity. Replace any that do not show continuity. Test the door switch, the thermal fuse, the internal-bias thermostat, the thermal cut-off kit, and the drive motor. Also examine the drive belt for signs of wear and tear. I hope this helps.

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My dryer blower motor works but drum does not turn ( i can turn it by hand) and no heat is coming out.What part do you think is the problem

Joe for model number MDG7600AWW
March 27, 2018
Answer:

Hi Joe, Thank you for your question. There are a few parts that you should check. I would suggest taking a look at your belt first. Many times it is simply that your belt has worn down and needs to be replaced. If your belt still has traction on the underside that is up against the drum, then you should take a look at your rollers and your idler pulley. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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My dryer was taking a long time to dry, two cycles or more sometimes and then it quit coming on. I changed the thermal fuse and i thought that would fix it but it came on for a second and then it went off and now it's not coming on again. Where should i start checking?? thermostat?

Sarah for model number LER8648LG0
April 3, 2018
Answer:

Hi Sarah, Thank you for your question. I would suggest checking your thermostats and all of your thermal fuses. You can test these parts with a multi meter to be sure. You may also want to check your heating element as well and your door switch. You should also check and make sure your vent and ducts are all cleared out of lint. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

Our gas dryer will not lite. I replaced the ignitor . It will not glow at all. What should i checked next to get the ignitor to come on?

Tommy for model number WGD4800XQ0
April 25, 2018
Answer:

Hi Tommy, Thank you for your question. Based on what you described, if the dryer will not light you will need to replace the coils. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. The coils open the gas valve; if the valve does not open the heating element will not ignite. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. This kit comes with a three-terminal boost/hold coil, and a two-terminal main coil. Each part is approximately 1 1/4 inches in diameter. If the igniter glows but shuts off without igniting gas, it means one of the two valves is faulty. We recommend you replace these as a set. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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When i dry cloths on the auto sense section function of the timer the timer does not move. When i dry on the timed function the timer works great till it reaches the end of the cool down cycle it does not shut off.It will shut off when i open the door,so door switch is ok, heat works fine and have completely cleaned out dryer vents and fan. I have also just replaced the timer with a new one

stephen for model number medc400vwo
6 days ago
Answer:

Hello Stephen, thank you for your question. The most likely issue is the internal bias thermostat, Part Number: WP3387134. This part can cause the auto sense function to not work, and the unit to not shut off at the end of the cycle. I would recommend testing that part. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. If that thermostat is ok, complete the previous testing steps on the other thermostats to determine the faulty part. I hope this helps!

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I replaced the thermostat but the air is still cold. Should I try clothes inside to see if they dry? I also opened the door and I don’t feel any air going in but the air is blowing out.

Robert for model number Ngd4655ew0
13 days ago
Answer:

Hello Robert, Thank you for the question. I would first suggest checking to see if the igniter, PartSelect Number PS334180 is lighting. You can also test the Internal-Bias Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS11741405. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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I tested the thermostat and it reads 0.1 ohms on the outer terminals, the inner read 7.11 k.Ohms... is it faulty?

Nick
November 30, 2018
Answer:

Hello Nick, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Gas dryer igniter glows red gas comes on and stays on for 10 mins or so then Flame goes off but never tries to heat up again but keeps running

Gil for model number WGD5100VQ1
Yesterday
Answer:

Hi Gil, thank you for your question. When you are experiencing an issue like this there are a few parts that you will have to test to determine what is causing your issue. For all of these parts you can test them with a multi meter. First you will have to test your thermostats and thermal fuses to make sure they are all functioning correctly. After that you will want to test parts in this order, your m series coils, igniter itself, or your radiant flame sensor. You may also want to check your regulator just to make sure that part is functioning properly as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Thanks in advance: My 2 year old dryer get very hot and then stop working. We have replaced the fuse and the internal bios thermostat from you guys and the problem persists. I have read your q and a's. Someone suggested the switch that controls the level of temperatures, your part ps 3632881. Thoughts about that and the high level thermostat and the heating element. In other questions you mention testing parts with a meter. This may be not too intelligent question but do the parts have to be or warm to test? Thanks,

Ed for model number NED4705EW1
May 7, 2018
Answer:

Hi Ed, Thank you for your question. No, they should be disconnected from the appliance when testing and can be tested at room temperature. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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My dryer doesn't heat at all. After checking all the thing's suggested i found the thermostat to be reading 7000 ohms while the dryer was cold. Is this reading normal?

Ken for model number AED4475TQ1
March 20, 2018
Answer:

Hi Ken, Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not heating, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal cut-off, the internal bias thermostat, the high limit thermostat, The heating element connection wire, the belt and the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

I'm only getting 120v at the heating element. I've already checked the breakers and they're good what next

Christopher for model number 11063022101
April 19, 2018
Answer:

HI Christopher, Thank you for the question. I suggest testing the wall plug where the dryer plugs in. If it is only sending 120V, the element will be effected. Also check the element coils for damage. If the power source and the element is good, test the thermal fuse and thermostat. Hope this helps!

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I have changed out both thermostats and the heating element on my dryer and it is still not heating up? If i put a voltage meter on any of the hot terminals and ground it i get no reading that any current is flowing through either thermostat. What else coukd it be?

Jeff for model number Medc215ew0
November 7, 2018
Answer:

Hello Jeff, Thank you for the question. When testing the thermostat it will need to be at room temperature to get a proper reading. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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I already replaced the fuse.The door switch,but it will not start.So I wanted to check the timer.How.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
August 25, 2017
Answer:

Hi Karen, Thank you for the question, This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. You will need to use a multi meter if you wish to test the timer. Hope this helps!

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I have a KitchenAid dryer that has stopped heating. I have checked thermal fuse and it shows conductivity. I checked the thermostat with a multi meter and the two red wires(large post) show conductivity but the two purple wires(small post) do not show any conductivity. This was done with the power cord unplugged. I have i done this correctly and if so is the thermostat good or bad?

Paul for model number KEYE760WWH1
October 9, 2017
Answer:

Hi Paul, Thank you for your inquiry. If the internal bias thermostat is not showing conductivity then you may have to replace it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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When using the timed function the dryer goes thru the cycle and turns off but the timer keeps advancing, is this a thermostat or timer issue?

Steve for model number medc200xw2
Yesterday
Answer:

Hello Steve, Thank you for the question. This sounds like an issue with a defective Timer. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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Trying to fix mom's dryer. Has no heat, gas does no go to burner. As igniter doesn't ignite and i smell no gas. I have replaced the following parts from partselect. Radiant Flame sensor (ps11741429), thermal fuse(ps11741460), igniter kit (ps334180), 'm' series new coil kit (ps334310) and thermostat (ps11741405). It runs fine, no heat nothing clogged, look like burner is not getting gas. What other part can it be? As i can't electrically test the parts it could possibly be, i just buy the part and install. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Christian for model number LGR6848AW0
2 days ago
Answer:

Hi Christian, thank you for your question. When you are experiencing an issue like this there are a few parts that you will have to test to determine what is causing your issue. For all of these parts you can test them with a multi meter. First you will have to test your thermostats and thermal fuses to make sure they are all functioning correctly. It looks like you have already changed out most of the other parts. Those parts being, your m series coils, igniter itself, or your radiant flame sensor. You may also want to check your regulator just to make sure that part is functioning properly as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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The dryer will initially start. If the door is opened the dryer will not restart for hours. When i attempt to restart the dryer the motor seems to start, or at least it makes noise that sounds normal, but the drum does not spin. If i repeatedly press the start button the dryer ceases to respond the the start button. When i attempt to start the dryer hours later the unit operates normally. Any advice is appreciated.

Howie for model number MAYTAG MDG9706AWW
6 days ago
Answer:

Hello Howie, thank you for your question. It almost sounds like there is an issue with one of the thermostats, or the fuse. You can test the thermostats and the fuse for continuity to see if they have failed. If the thermostats and fuse are fine. Test the igniter, flame sensor and the gas coils. Both coils must be operational for the valve to open. This is a safety mechanism to ensure that there are no unsafe buildups of gas inside your appliance. If they don't open together, or sporadically open, this can cause issues with the dryer starting. If the previous parts are tested and are all functioning properly, check the push to start switch and the motor. I hope this helps!

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The dryer will not operate and the heating element will will not shut off. We thought it would start a fire it got so hot. What part will fix the problem?

Kenneth Mapel for model number NED4700YQ1
8 days ago
Answer:

Hello Kenneth, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing the following thermostats first. Part Number: WP3387134, Part Number: 279816, and Part Number: WP3977767 to determine if one of these thermostats have failed. Here is a link that will show you how to test those thermostats. https://www.partselect.com/Dryer+test-thermostat+repair.htm If the thermostat are all working, we would recommend testing the heating element. Here is the link for testing that part. https://www.partselect.com/Dryer+test-heating-element+repair.htm I hope this helps!

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My dryer is getting very hot, when you open the door and look inside the screen on the left side, it looks charred and the heating element is red hot when on low heat (not sure if this is normal, never really looked at it before). There seems to be a burning smell but i cleaned out all of the lint. I also hear what seems like a clicking sound at the end of every drum rotation. I'm not sure what parts i should replace, any guidance?

Andrea for model number aed4675yq0
12 days ago
Answer:

Hello Andrea, thank you for your question. We would recommend testing the thermostats in the unit. chances are one of the thermostats isn't functioning which is causing the element to get too hot and not cycle on and off to maintain a safe heat. Those part numbers are Thermostat, Internal-Bias PartSelect Number: PS11741405, Thermostat, High Limit 221 F (PartSelect Number: PS11742185 and Thermal Cut-Off Kit PartSelect Number: PS334299. The wires leading to the thermostat are connected using metal slip on connectors. Remove the wires by pulling on the connectors, and not the wires themselves. It may be a good idea to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps!

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Dryer is very hot while on lowest heat setting, otherwise runs normally. Cycling thermostat replaced about a year ago by professional appliance repair tech for same issue. Cycling thermostat has continuity, and when heated up closes. High limit thermostat has continuity at room temp, and closes at high temp. Heating element has continuity, and nothing is touching. Thermal cutoff fuse has continuity (assuming that means that the fuse is not blown). What would be my next diagnostic step?

Cole for model number MEDC215EW1
December 13, 2018
Answer:

Hello Cole, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the cabinet for lint build up that is preventing air flow. You can also check the vent pipe for build up. Lack of air flow can cause over heating.Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!

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Timer doesn't advance but dryer seems to be getting hot - maybe not as hot as before, hard to tell.

Alf for model number ned4655ew1
November 30, 2018
Answer:

Hi Alf, Thank you for your question. If the timer is not advancing and the dryer is too hot, There are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the high limit thermostat, the heating element, the belt, and the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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My dryer was working great and then our house was hit by lightning. It still dries but the timer doesn’t move and it is staying on high heat even when the dial is on low heat. I also noticed that when i open the door after i stop the dryer i’m hearing a thumping or clicking sound. Do you know what the problem might be?

Shaunda for model number MEDC215EW1
November 26, 2018
Answer:

Hello Shaunda, Thank you for the question. Sounds like the timer may have been shorted out and damaged, PartSelect Number PS11749831. The timer is not repairable so it will need to be replaced. Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!

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My dryer was working perfectly and then the house was hit by lightning. The dryer is still drying but the timer doesn’t move and it always seems like it’s on high heat even if i turn it to low heat. Where would be the best place to start to know what was wrong with it?

Shaunda
November 26, 2018
Answer:

Hello Shaunda, thank you for contacting us, In order for us to locate the correct parts and repair information we will require the model number of the unit. Once you have located the model number please feel free to resubmit the question and we will be happy to help you. Look forward to hearing from you!

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Our dryer seems to work properly when we run a cycle initially. However, after that cycle is finished, the timer does not stay in the off position and continues to turn. Once it gets to the next cycle, the drum heats but does not move. We have replaced the start switch, door switch, timer, and fuse. The heating element was replaced about a year ago. Is this a problem with the thermostat? We are running out of possible parts to replace.

Erica for model number 110.66732501
November 21, 2018
Answer:

Hello Erica, thank you for your question. This could have something to do with the bias thermostat. To test that part to see if its bad complete the following steps. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each large terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. If the thermostat is fine, the issue could be the timer itself. I hope this helps!

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This dryer won't dry on auto dry but dries on heavy duty mode but the timer doesn't move

Ron Teague for model number WED4815Ew1
November 15, 2018
Answer:

Hello Ron, thank you for your question. The firsts parts I would recommend testing are the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134 and the Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519. When either or both of these are not functioning properly the unit will not heat properly and the timer may not advance. To test these parts take the following steps. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermal fuse should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermal fuse is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermal fuse at room temperature. I hope this helps!

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How do i test the old thermostat?

Gary
November 15, 2018
Answer:

Hello Gary, thank you for your question. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each large terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. Good luck with your repair!

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I changed the thermal fuse and put in a new dryer thermostat kit. My Whirlpool cabrio accudry gas dryer still isn't heating up properly. Can you tell me where the cycling thermostat is located as well as the heating element.

Teresa for model number WGD5600XW1
November 8, 2018
Answer:

Hi Teresa, thank you for your question. Your cycling thermostat, or internal bias thermostat is located on the blower housing. This part is not the correct one for your appliance. I have listed the correct thermostat in a link down below. We also have an installation video for that part as well: https://youtu.be/qN7rLvdzcsM . I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Thermostat
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Hey all, hell of a time here, dryer wont start, i replaced door switch, pt# wp3406107, also thermo internal bias pt# wp3387134, still wont start, me and my dad tested voltage from outlet 110 vts,thought problem with breaker, hardware store guy said normal, checked door and start switch, nothing... no power, got to the timer, got 110 there, hardware store guy said seen the fuse go bad alot, looked up i see thermo cut off pt# 279816 has that 1 time fuse, question is, do i keep going? damn thing 2 years old, any thoughts?

kevin for model number aed4675yq1
November 6, 2018
Answer:

Hello Kevin, Thank you for the question. The fuse you would need for your model number is the PartSelect Number PS1410819. I looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued. There is no part substitutions listed. My suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers. Hope this helps!

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My Kenmore electric dryer ( model # 110.67432600 ) does not give off any heat . My thermostat (part # 3387134 ) reads on large leads ( silver in color ) 0 ohms . The smaller leads ( brass in color ) reads 7000 ohms . Is this part bad ?

mario for model number kenmore elect dryer model # 110.67432600
August 8, 2018
Answer:

Hi Mario, Thank you for your question. Are you testing the thermostat at room temperature? Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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My dryer is not shutting off. It seems to advance until the very end cycle but doesn't shut off. I changed the thermostat but that didn't do anything. The only other options seem to be the door switch and gas coils according to the problem issues on the website. Unless i have been drying without heat and not realizing it both failures seemed to happen at the same time. The thermostat did have a bent terminal when i received it but can't imagine it was defective. Any suggestions?

Jeff for model number NGD4500VQ0
May 3, 2018
Answer:

Hello Jeff, thank you for your question. If the unit is not shutting off on its own, you will want to test a few parts to determine the issue. The 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part Number: 279834, Igniter Kit Part Number: 279311, and the Radiant Flame Sensor Part Number: WP338906, and the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134 and the thermal fuse part number WP3392519. If the bias thermostat was already replaced, test the one that was installed for continuity using a multimeter. The bent terminal might have caused a break in the terminal and can cause the flow of electricity to be broken as well. I hope this helps!

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We have seen longer than usual drying times in our dryer. I't about 15 years old now. I checked ( with multimeter ) the thermal fuse, both thermostats and they all showed continuity when tested. The i pulled off the blower cover to inspect the blower fan... there was some buildup of lint, pencils etc at the bottom of the blower cover so i gave that entire piece a good clean out. the vent tube is completely clear and it does seem that the airflow is good as i can feel a good airflow at the exhaust hole outside the house. the temp inside the drum on delicate reached 120f before the gas shut off. on high the temp inside the drum reaches 140f. i'm not sure if that is the temps expected or if that is low. i have the two thermostats in my shopping cart but i'm not sure if this is just an age thing or if the thermostats do need to be replaces and they are maybe shutting down the gas at a lower than optimal temp?

John for model number 11072822101
May 2, 2018
Answer:

Hello John, thank you for your question. This kind of issue is not related to the age of the unit. There is definately a thermostat issue going on. I would recommend testing/replacing the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134, as well as the Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519 first. You're testing for continuity at room temperature the reading should be 0. If these are tested and are functioning correctly, I would recommend checking over the burner parts. The coils, igniter, and gas valve. The burner parts are only available as an assembly, the burner assembly part number W10823508. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Timer doesn't advance and no heat what part would I need

Steve for model number TEDX640EQ2
April 23, 2018
Answer:

Hi Steve, Thank you for the question. This sounds like an issue with the timer switch, PartSelect Number: PS351741.I looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued. There is no part substitutions listed. My suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Gas dryer stopped heating altogether. Vent had a lot of lint. Replaced vent. Didn't fix problem. Was about to order thermostat from you but wondered if it the problem could be other very easy-to-replace parts, which are alternate options you identify as possible fixes...so i could order several parts. please advise.

Kathleen for model number Maytag MD-16
April 5, 2018
Answer:

Hi Kathleen, Thank you for the question. The only way to know for sure is to test the parts with a multi meter and check for Continuity. hope this helps!

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Question:

Can you bypass the internal bias thermostat on len3434aw0?

Joyce for model number LEN3434AW0
March 29, 2018
Answer:

Hi Joyce, Thank you for the question. We do not recommend bypassing the thermostat as it can be a fire hazard. If the thermostat is defective then it shoudl be replaced. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Umm, retested coils, the one with 2 prongs tested at about 1000 1100 ohms. The 3 prong coil 500 ohms , [1st and second] ,,then about 1200 1300 1st and 3rd..on start up Flame ignites , when i reset dryer to run again, ,,clothes are not dry after 60 minutes,, glows no Flame, shuts off then later works again, ? perplexed? retest themostats for continuity?

andy for model number 1107662501
March 16, 2018
Answer:

Hi Andy, Thank you for your question. If your dryer is taking too long to dry, There are some parts that you will need to check to see which ones are causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat and the thermal fuse. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Loads have to be on 2 times to dry, about 140 mniutes , way too long, had the whole dryer apart, cleaned it , tested the coils with multi tester , seem fine , but noticed that sometimes the igniter glows , but no, gas , usually ,i can hear a click then the gas ignites, i observed this thru the small window, should the gas ignite every time the igniter glows? Or can the coils be bad when the dryer runs for a while? Confused

andy for model number 11076662501
March 12, 2018
Answer:

Hello Andy, thank you for your question. If the Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134 and Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519 have been tested and are not faulty, the most common problem that causes your issue is the coils and the igniter. I would recommend replacing both the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit Part Number: 279834 as well as the Igniter Kit PartSelect Number: 279311. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Tested coils,fuse , thermostat, Flame sensor, high limit therm, everything seems ok? Can the therms, still malfunction,even if they have continuity?

Vic for model number 11076662501
March 7, 2018
Answer:

Hi Vic, Thank you for contacting PartSelect. If the thermostats test good for continuity then they should not be defective. You can try the Thermal Cut off kit, PartSelect Number PS3508094 and the igniter, PartSelect Number PS334180 next. Hope this helps!

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Question:

How do I test the heating element with a tester

Darrel for model number MEDC200XW1
March 5, 2018
Answer:

Hi Darrel, Thank you for your question. You would us a multi meter. The one thing that you would have to make sure to do would be to remove the part before testing. Make sure your appliance is disconnected from the power. The part should read 0 ohms to be working correctly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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My dryer takes too long to dry, I have to run it about 1 hour and 45 minutes per load. I took it all apart and cleaned everything, no blockage, tested the coils and the thermostat in the exhaust vent? Is that the problem? Can it be tested?

Vic for model number 11076662501
March 3, 2018
Answer:

Hello Vic, Thanks for your question. You may want to test the thermal fuse, coils, thermostat, and radiant flame sensor for continuity with a multimeter. Replace them if they do not show continuity. Check the belt as well for any signs of wear and tear, and change the filter if needed. I hope this helps.

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Question:

I have a Whirlpool dryer. Starts by pushing signal on/off button. When pressed I hear a buzzing noise as if the dryer stopped. I'm also smelling a burning smell. I took the back off and tried again. Saw the blades on the drive motor turn slightly. Do you think the motor needs to be replaced. A speedy reply would be appreciated. Thanks

Anthony for model number LGR5636PQ0
February 28, 2018
Answer:

Hi Anthony, Thank you for the question. Only way to know for sure is to test the motor with a multimeter and check for resistance. Hope this helps!

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Question:

How do I check the thermostat, internal-bias and the hi temp switch

Joseph for model number LGR7648KQ0
February 20, 2018
Answer:

Hi Joseph, Thank you for the question. You will need to use a Multi Meter to check the continuity. Hope this helps!

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I have an Admiral nat, gas dryer. The timer switch does not advance and the dryer does not heat up. Is it the timer switch itself? It seems to control everything all the way down to the burner assembly.

Richard for model number AGD4475TQ1
February 20, 2018
Answer:

Hi Richard, Thank you for your question. If the dryer is not starting, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the door switch, the internal bias thermostat, the drive motor with pulley, the push-to start switch and the belt. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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My dryer wont heat up had the element check ok, thermal fuse change, how can a person check the last two thing, timer , thermostats bias internal

Rene for model number RED4640YQ1
February 18, 2018
Answer:

Hello Rene, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the high limit thermostat as well, and you can test all three parts with a multimeter to see if they have continuity. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer gets super hot immediately only in the back inside of dryer on the side of the coil. I changed the internal bias thermostat and it still happens.What would you suggest?

Matthew for model number WED4800XQ3
February 15, 2018
Answer:

Hello Matthew, thank you for your question. I would recommend checking the thermostats that are mounted to the heating element itself. The Thermal Cut-Off Kit, which includes those two thermostats, as well as the fuse. The fuse should be replaced when the internal bias thermostat is replaced as well. I hope this helps!

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Question:

Tumbles, ignites normally then gas Flame shuts off after a few moments.Consistently. Repeatedly. Replaced solenoids with no change in symptom.

Bryan for model number DG8300
February 14, 2018
Answer:

Hi Bryan, Thank you for the question You will need to test the thermostats and the igniter. They should read closed for continuity. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Hi, my Whirlpool dryer works but it does not dry my clothes? What can it be? Is it the timer? I changed the heating element a year ago.

Isabel for model number WED5200VQ0
February 11, 2018
Answer:

Hello Isabel, Thanks for your question. There are a few parts that we would recommend testing with a multimeter to see if they have continuity. Replace any that do not have continuity. Check the internal-bias thermostat, the thermal fuse, the heating element, the thermal cut-off kit, and the high-limit thermostat. You may also want to examine your belt for any signs of wear and tear. I hope this helps.

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Question:

My original operating thermostat has only two electrical terminals. The replacement has four. Which two do I connect to?

Bob
February 10, 2018
Answer:

Hello Bob, Thanks for your question. The red/white wire goes on the bottom, the red wire on the top, and the purple wires are supposed to go to the smaller terminals. I hope this helps.

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Question:

Ive got a KitchenAid dryer.Just plugged it in and it arked and popped breaker.I unplugged and took back off.The thermal off was scorched.Burnt bad.Every thing else looks good.Can you tell me what caused that????please

Leigh
February 9, 2018
Answer:

Hello Leigh, thank your for your question. It sounds like there is something wrong with either the dryer receptacle, the power cord, the breaker box in your house, or the plug the dryer is being plugged into. I would have an electrician check those things to see where the issue lies. I hope this helps!

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Question:

I took the operating thermostat out of my dryer to test it on my multimeter, and forgot which alignment the thermostat goes back in. Are the wires interchangeable on the connectors or do they need to go onto a specific connector? If they are specific are the wires and or connectors labeled so i know which wire goes to what connector?

Chris M
January 26, 2018
Answer:

Hi Chris, Thank you for your question. It looks like we have an installation video that should help you out with that: https://youtu.be/4SS3M7ugbJg . Unfortunately the manufacturer themselves has not let us know if the wires are interchangeable or not. From the video it looks like the all red wire goes on top and the other one goes below it. Good luck with your repair.

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One day my dryer stopped working, so i opened up the back panel and tested all parts. After doing so i found the thermal fuse was blown. I replaced the thermal fuse and the dryer was working again, only this time after a cycle had timed out the dryer heating element stayed on. I had to disconnect from the power source to stop it. I know the thermal fuse is doing it's job by shorting out, so there has to be another part that's causing the heater element to stay on. Can you please help me? Thank you very much.

Rafael for model number 110.61402311
January 22, 2018
Answer:

Hi Rafael, Thank you for your question. It is likely because your bias thermostat had failed it caused all of the other safety thermostats to fail as well. I would suggest replacing your thermal cut off kit for your heating element itself. I have listed that part information for you below. Test both the thermostat and the thermal fuse on your heating element with a multi meter. They should both be reading close to 0 ohms. If they do not, then you will need to replace them. Good luck with your repair.

Related Parts: Thermal Cut-Off Kit
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Question:

I poped off the peak hole at front of dryer and did not see ingitor start to glow replaced it and still nothing what is next

victor for model number NGD4655EW0
January 15, 2018
Answer:

Hello Victor, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: radiant flame sensor, internal bias thermostat, the thermal fuse-WP3392519, the gas valve and the control board. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Question:

This is an electric dryer. When it is very cold outside the dryer does not get hot. Is this caused by the thermostat internal bias?

Pat for model number LEQ9030PQ1
December 29, 2017
Answer:

Hi Pat, Thank you for your question. The temperature outside should not effect how your dryer works. I would suggest checking all of the thermostats inside of your appliance. You can test those parts with a multi meter. They should all read 0 ohms to be working correctly. You may also want to check your seals to make sure that your dryer is sealing correctly. You should also check your ducts/vents to make sure there are no leaks there as well. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

How do i test to diagnose which of the two most probable causes i should address regarding no heat in the dryer. Everything else seems to work.

Dave for model number NED4700YQ0
December 23, 2017
Answer:

Hello Dave, Thank you for your inquiry. You can test the parts with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Hi . Friend. My dryer when i push in it buzz when i released my finger dryer stopped. What possible the problem ? Replace the start switch? Please let me know. Thank you.

George for model number 11072812101
December 18, 2017
Answer:

Hello George, Thank you for your inquiry. I would start by making sure the lint trap is clean and clearing any lint out of the motor. You can test both the motor and start switch with a multimeter. If you are unfamiliar with how a multimeter functions, there are YouTube videos available to assist you. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer will not heat up...so i replaced the fuse..still no heat..replaced the element...still no heat. ..replaced the thermostat on the element. ..still no heat...good heavens, what could be the problem?

Ellen for model number KEYS677EQ1
December 5, 2017
Answer:

Hi Ellen, Thank you for your question. If your oven is not heating, you may need to try replacing the thermal cut-off and to also check the connection wires to the heating element. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

My Kenmore elite electric dryer heat coils don't stay on very long when drying they go on then off to soon so it takes longer for the clothes to dry than it did in the past.

gary guilfoyle for model number 110.64952300
November 27, 2017
Answer:

Hi Gary, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is taking too long to dry, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat, the thermal fuse, the lint filter, the heating element, the electrode sensor and the thermal cut-off. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

This is a gas dryer and now will run on all settings but only heats sometimes and timer does not advance, also light in drum stopped working at the same time.

Dan for model number 11077522600
November 24, 2017
Answer:

Hi Dan, Thank you for your question. I would suggest testing your thermostats, thermal fuse, coils, igniter, and your radiant flame sensor. Your heating issue may not have any correlation to the light going out in your appliance. You may just have to change your light. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

My dryer have no heat on timed dry but the timer do advance. It’s have heat on auto dry but will not advance to cool down. It just keep running and i have to shut it off manually. Any ideas what is going on?

Calvin. for model number Wed4800xq0
November 22, 2017
Answer:

Hi Calvin, Thank you for your inquiry. If your timer is not advancing, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the internal bias thermostat, the thermal fuse, the thermal cut-off, the timer knob, the timer, the high limit thermostat, the heating element, the belt and the door switch. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

My dryer timer will not advance and does not heat up. Everything worked fine before I moved.When I set it back up at the new house that’s when I started having problems with it.What do you think it could be? I’ve cleaned everything out the back and checked and see if there’s any loose wires.

William for model number REX5634KQ1
October 30, 2017
Answer:

Hi William, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the Dryer Timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting.If the timer will not advance it will not allow send power to the element in order to heat up. Hope this helps!

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Question:

So i had too much heat and no air dry/ cool down. After inspection i found heater short to housing. I temporarily moved it back in place and adjusted the ceramic holder and reinstalled. Now i don’t have any readings from heater terminals to case but now i have no heat at all. ??

Steven for model number 11096272100
October 11, 2017
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the internal bias thermostat, the heating element, the heater element connection wire, the high limit thermostat, the belt, the door catch and strike and the timer. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

Could a bad thermostat cause my dryer to run too hot and not go in to air dry/ cool down “mode/cycle?

Steven for model number 11096272100
October 9, 2017
Answer:

Hi Steven, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Thermostat, Internal-Bias,PartSelect Number PS11741405.A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. Hope this helps!

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Question:

Dryer runs a short while with heat and tumble, but then shuts off. How can i confirm problem is thermal fuse or thermostat, but not the motor causing overheating?

tony for model number LGR7647EQ2
October 5, 2017
Answer:

Hi Tony, Thank you for your inquiry. There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the thermal fuse, the drive motor, the electronic control board, the timer, the door switch and the dryer catch and strike. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

My dryer doesn't heat up. I replace the thermal fuse and it still doesn't get hot. So what is the problem?

Rene for model number LGR4634EQ3
September 26, 2017
Answer:

Hi Rene, Thank you for your question. There are a couple of parts that could cause the issue. I would suggest checking your m series coils, thermostats, radiant flame sensor, and your igniter. You can test all of those parts with a multimeter. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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Question:

My dryer cycles between 120 and 160f no matter what the temperature selection (high, medium or low). If I stick wires into the back of the temperature switch connector (contact with the only 2 wires violet and blue going to the switch) I measure 0.0 ohms for low, 6,200 ohms for medium (same resistance as the resistor jumped in), and infinite resistance for high heat. The wiring diagram says the resistance should be 10 ohms Max for low heat and 10,000 ohms min for high, so I think it is working. The internal bias thermostat reads 0 ohms across the big leads and 7,100 ohms across the small, which I believe indicate it is fine. What should I do now?

Roger for model number WED4800XQ1
September 26, 2017
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for the question, I suggest checking the Thermal Cut-Off Kit,PartSelect Number PS334299.This dryer thermal cut-off kit includes one high-limit thermostat with a limit of 250 degrees Fahrenheit, and one thermal cut-off fuse (309 degrees).The thermal cut off turns off the heating component when the dryer overheats, ensuring there is a consistent level of heat at all times. Hope this helps!

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Question:

This dryer works the whole cycle, but still the cloths are wet and cold. No heat. One time this had happened I had replaced fuse.

Abe for model number WED5530SQ0
September 15, 2017
Answer:

Hi Abe, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Thermal Fuse.When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
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Question:

Dryer stopped working. I replaced the thermal fuse. Dryer worked fine one time and stopped working again. I replaced the thermal fuse again and vacuumed the duct work inside the dryer and dryer pipe leading outside. Pipe is solid not Flex pipe. Again after one load the fuse blew. Could this be the heat sensor unit?

Jim Heinold for model number keys677ezo
September 1, 2017
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is constantly blowing fuses, it sounds like an issue with a circuit breaker on your electrical box and you may have to have an electrician examine it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Question:

My Roper dryer runs but doesn't heat. Will this correct the problem?

Roger
August 28, 2017
Answer:

Hello Roger, thank you for contacting us. Yes, that could cause this issue, there is usually a few of these in a dryer that can be tested with a multi-meter, as well you can check the heating element. Good luck with the repair!

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Question:

My Crosley dryer will heat for twenty minutes than shut down the rest of the cycle. I can go and start the dryer again and it will repeat the process. I have installed a new fuse and coils. I now think it may be the internal thermostat. Any suggestions

Donna
August 25, 2017
Answer:

Hello Donna, thank you for contacting us. A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. Hope this helps!

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Question:

My dryer would get too hot and overheat. I would need to turn it off to cool down and restart. We replaced the thermostat, and internal-bias and thermal cut-off kit(but my husband did not use the new red wire in the kit) dryer worked fine for a few minutes with heat and now no heat at all. Suggestions? Thanks

Tracie for model number LTE6234DQ0
August 22, 2017
Answer:

Hi Tracie, Thank you for your inquiry. If your husband did not use the red wire in the thermal cut-off kit, that may be causing the issue. I would also check the heater to see if that is working correctly as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 153 reviews What's this?
1-15 of 153
721 of 766 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Tom from High Point, NC
Dryer blew cold air.
PartSelect is great for providing parts as requested. Unfortunately, neither of the 2 parts I ordered were on my machine. My bad for not looking at the actual part instead of the description. A word to the wise!

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609 of 786 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
John from Indianapolis, IN
Dryer would take forever to dry clothes, even on high setting
I ordered all the thermal sensors for the dryer. They arrived two days later and they were the correct parts. It took me about 1/2 hour to replace all three sensors and now the dryer works like new again. My wife was very pleased, so was I.

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445 of 483 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer:
Paul from Monmouth, IL
Intermittant heat
First I shut off the gas supply and disconnected the dryer vent and unpluged the unit so you can access the rear of the dryer. Then I removed the rear cover. This is where you will find your thermostats and fuses. Holding the new part next to the one to be replaced I transfer the wires one at a time so as not to get them mixed up, then unscrew the old part and install the new one. Insert a flat blade screwdriver under the top cover in the 2 front corners to unsnap it from it's clips, also at this time you need to remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the lint filter tube to the lid, then lift the lid to expose the drum ( I tilted the dryer back as far as the flex gas line would allow me to and rested the top lid against the wall without removing it, to many wires). Behind the front cover in the top right corner is the plug for the door switch,un-plug it and also there are 2 screws one in each corner. After that lift the front cover straight up and pull it away from the cabinet ( it has clips at the bottom to hold it in place). Reaching under the drum on the right side pull down on the belt tensioner and release the belt from the motor then you can remove the drum. Laying the drum down on it's front edge I removed the rear felt seal and took a piece of sand paper to rough up th old glue and clean off some of the felt that was still stuck to the drum. Following the directions from the seal package I put the glue around the edge of the drum and re-installed the new felt. This is a good time to clean out your dryer, while the glue sets up. A shop vac works the best, but be carefull not to suck up the money, it will help pay for the repair ( I found over a dollar in change ). At this time I also changed the coils on the gas valve, remove the 2 screws that hold the clamp and replace them one at a time. Re-install the drum with the belt on it, fold it and push it through the tensioner and put it on the motor pulley. rotate the drum to make sure that the felt is not kinked under itself, re-install the front cover bottom clips first, then the 2 screws and the plug for the door switch, pull down the lid and snap it in place, before installing the rear cover this is a good time to remove the rear cover to the lint chute and clean in there also ( it's easy to see why there are so many dryer fires). Re- install that cover and the rear cover and vent tube, turn your gas back on and check it for leaks ( even if you didn't disconnect it) plug your dryer back in and get busy catching up on the laundry that you haven't had a chance to do because your dryer broke, then smile and think about all the money you saved by doing this simple repair your self. Thanks Parts Select

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371 of 480 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Michael from Worcester, MA
Dryer will not turn on
Followed electrical drawing from switch to motor, Thermal fuse was in the line and no power coming through it, removed wire and put together and tested, dryer turned on. Read statements from others at parts select and also bought thermostat because time stopped working last year. Installed both parts and cleaned dryer, works perfect including timer.

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212 of 263 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer:
Christopher from dublin, OH
No heat
took a couple differant parts to fix the dryer. i ordered one part at a time. i was expecting to wait the 5 days for shipping but i got home from work the next day of odering parts and they were there waiting for me on my doorstep. all three times i ordered. this website is the best site to order parts. i wont go to another website or store if i need to order parts for appliances. u guys have my business for life. thumbs up.

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187 of 238 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer:
Hector from Whittier, CA
Dryer wouldn't heat
I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.

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162 of 184 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer:
Colin from Bellingham, WA
Dryer wouldn't turn on.
When my dryer suddenly stopped functioning, without any prior signs of pending failure, I guessed that it had to be something simple, like a fuse. I did a google search and stumbled across a forum post that described the symptoms (wouldn't turn on), and the poster said that Whirlpool recommends replacing the thermostat whenever the fuse is replaced. The reason for this is that the likely cause of the fuse burning is that the thermostat is no longer properly regulating the temperature range of the heating element.

I disconnected the power source, and then I removed the back cover, and both parts were in plain view, so I simply replaced the wires one by one.

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149 of 164 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Michael from Parker, FL
Heat in dryer very low, would take an hour and half to dry a load
First I called an appliance repair place. They charged me $40 to come out and said "the air vent might be clogged". I snaked it out and really wasn't anything in there. So I started thinking it might be a thermostat. After reading the reviews that others posted here, I said, "how hard can it be"? Thanks to PartsSelect putting a diagram (schematic) of the parts, I could see what I was looking for when I removed the back panel. So I took my nutdrivers out, disconnected the vent hose and removed the 10 or so nuts off the back panel & got it out of the way. Took out the vacuum cleaner and sucked all the lint out. Removed the housing where the heating element was and marked on both thermostats and housing where each wires went. As cheap as PartsSelect had the thermostats priced, I figured why not remove the guesswork by buying the highlimit and cycling thermostats and a new heating element too. One screw in each thermostat and out they came. Swapped wires with new thermostats and put them back. With the heating element...it was all one piece, so no fighting to get the element into an old housing. Just swapped them. Put the back panel on and reconnected the vent hose. Cost to repair: about $100. Time for parts to get to me: 2 days. Time to install new parts: about 10 minutes. Knowing that I have a dryer that runs like new AND saving a TON of money on electric bill....THAT is priceless. Thanks PartsSelect!

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147 of 161 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer:
Russell from LA VERNE, CA
Dryer would not heat.
I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.

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108 of 118 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer:
Jeffery from Plymouth, IN
Thermal fuse blown
I spent nearly an hour trying to self-diagnose the problem before I wised up and found PartSelect.com. After reading just a couple of postings I went back and tested the thermal fuse. It was bad. Other posts suggested I replace the thermostat at the same time, so I ordered both. The parts arrived within three days and the actual repair took less than 10 minutes.

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68 of 79 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Kent from Sebastopol, CA
No heat - everything else was functional
After 30 miutes of research on this website I felt confident to investigate the problem. Removal of the back cover is straightforward. Initially I did not appreciate and obstruction of the ductwork exitting the dryer. I bypassed the thermal fuse by removing the wires and temporarily taping them together and heat was restored. Knowing flow was OK exitting the dryer I investigated flow from the lint trap to the blower motor which is where the problem was located. In our case the lint filter was torn allowing many small objects and lint to near completely clog the pathway between the lint trap and the blower motor. It was difficult to appreaciate how obstructed that pathway was without removing the entire channel from the machine which was simple and required removing two screws at the lint trap opening followed by 3-4 screws on the back of the channel. Once removed, it was easy to appreaciate the debris clogging the channel and was easy to clean with a hose and running water. Replacement was a snap. The parts were oredered and sent in a day. I prophylactically replaced thermastats based upon a recommendation from another website. Replacing previous parts with new parts was a snap. Out the door we were up and running for around $100 (including new thermostats). The dryer repair man may go the way of the dinosaur.

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35 of 40 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
  • Thermostat, Internal-Bias
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Wiliam from Belleville, MI
Dryer would not shut off on auto dry settings
I removed the discharge duct from the back of the dryer. Then, I removed the screws on the back of the dryer and the back itself. This exposed the cycling thermostat. I removed the screw holding the thermostat. I took the wires off the defective thermostat and reinstalled them on the new thermostat. Then, I reassembled in reverse order.

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33 of 44 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
ANTHONY from MONROE, NC
Dryer had heat intermittently and would take 3 cycles to dry a load of clothes
First, remove the back panel of dryer which is about 10 screws. Then remove the 2 thermal switches, one is above the heating element and the other is where the hot air comes out. They are both really easy to get to and the pictures on Part Select.com are identical, so you can order the part first and then just "match them up" if you are not sure what to replace. Oops, the first step is to unplug the dryer.

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28 of 36 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
Customer:
Derwin from Waleska, AL
Dryer did not heat anymore
My husband removed the old (2) thermostats..then installed the new ones...he said the only thing he needed was his battery run screwdriver, and it was really needed!
we are happy with the ordering, delivery, and the ease of replacement of our new parts. Thanks.

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27 of 42 people found these instructions helpful
Parts Used:
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
Customer:
Jaime from Chantilly, VA
No heat
Everything seems to work on the electric/gas dryer, but would not generate any heat. Did some research and ordered the thermal fuse & thermostat based on that. Replacement was simple and went well, however it did not fix the issue. Should have checked the continuity first as I found the "replaced parts" to be good. Have checked all other possible symptoms except the heating element, which requires addition labor. Overall, partselect portion was as advertised. All parts arrived quickly and were priced fair.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
110.6012990
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.6012990 (1106012990, 110 6012990) Parts
Kenmore
110.76702690
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76702690 (11076702690, 110 76702690) Parts
Kenmore
110.76862692
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76862692 (11076862692, 110 76862692) Parts
Kenmore
110.76901690
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.76901690 (11076901690, 110 76901690) Parts
Kenmore
110.77834792
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.77834792 (11077834792, 110 77834792) Parts
Kenmore
110.796228
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.796228 (110796228, 110 796228) Parts
Kenmore
110.97263100
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.97263100 (11097263100, 110 97263100) Parts
Kenmore
110.97263800
Dryer - Kenmore Dryer Model 110.97263800 (11097263800, 110 97263800) Parts
Kenmore
110.98762790
Washer Dryer Combo - Kenmore Washer/Dryer Combo Model 110.98762790 (11098762790, 110 98762790) Parts
Kenmore
11060012000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060012001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060012002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060022010
Dryer
Kenmore
1106012510
Dryer - ELECTRIC DRYER
Kenmore
11060172000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060172001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060172002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060202990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060212990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060222511
Dryer - ELECTRIC DRYER
Kenmore
11060232000
Dryer
Kenmore
11060232001
Dryer
Kenmore
11060232002
Dryer
Kenmore
11060522900
Dryer
Kenmore
11060602990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060612990
Dryer
Kenmore
1106062110
Dryer
Kenmore
11060622990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060702990
Dryer
Kenmore
11060712990
Dryer