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11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias
11741405-1-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-2-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias 11741405-3-S-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Thermostat, Internal-Bias https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Maytag/RSDYZ2AA.gif

Thermostat, Internal-Bias

Your Price

$14.96
Get this part fast. Average delivery time via standard shipping: 1.8 days.

PartSelect Number PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number WP3387134
Manufactured by Whirlpool

A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. The installation of the cycling thermostat is simple and the only tool required is a 1/4 inch nut driver (and gloves for safety).

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Crosley, Inglis, Amana, Admiral, Magic Chef, Jenn-Air.

This part works with the following products: Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • No heat or not enough heat.
  • Takes too long to dry.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Too hot.
  • Shuts off too soon.
  • Will not shut off.
  • Will not tumble.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

I’m not sure how often this happens because it hasn’t happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I’ve already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it’s the thermostat?

Kealan
Answer:

Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

6 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is turning on and “working” but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn’t seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?

Leo
Answer:

Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.

Dylan
Answer:

Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

5 people found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem

Jerry for model number Ler7646ez2
Answer:

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

3 people found this helpful.
Question:

How do you test thermostat internal-bias

vic for model number lgr4634pq0
Answer:

Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

1 person found this helpful.
Question:

Is there a difference between the part number 3387134 that has a label that's says 250v and the original part that says on it 125v? Will it over heat with the higher voltage t stat?

Roger
Answer:

Hi Roger, Thank you for your question. That part number is the same part as the the one we have on our website. The manufacturer just updated the part number with a WP at the beginning. You should have no problems with this part. If you want to be sure that this part goes to your machine, try searching with the model number of your appliance and see the parts listed. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

This dryer works the whole cycle, but still the cloths are wet and cold. No heat. One time this had happened I had replaced fuse.

Abe for model number WED5530SQ0
Answer:

Hi Abe, Thank you for the question. Sounds like you need to replace the Thermal Fuse.When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

Dryer stopped working. I replaced the thermal fuse. Dryer worked fine one time and stopped working again. I replaced the thermal fuse again and vacuumed the duct work inside the dryer and dryer pipe leading outside. Pipe is solid not Flex pipe. Again after one load the fuse blew. Could this be the heat sensor unit?

Jim Heinold for model number keys677ezo
Answer:

Hi Jim, Thank you for your inquiry. If your dryer is constantly blowing fuses, it sounds like an issue with a circuit breaker on your electrical box and you may have to have an electrician examine it. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Question:

My Roper dryer runs but doesn't heat. Will this correct the problem?

Roger
Answer:

Hello Roger, thank you for contacting us. Yes, that could cause this issue, there is usually a few of these in a dryer that can be tested with a multi-meter, as well you can check the heating element. Good luck with the repair!

Question:

My Crosley dryer will heat for twenty minutes than shut down the rest of the cycle. I can go and start the dryer again and it will repeat the process. I have installed a new fuse and coils. I now think it may be the internal thermostat. Any suggestions

Donna
Answer:

Hello Donna, thank you for contacting us. A cycling thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees and will then turn off and then on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If your dryer is not giving off enough heat, is over-heating, is not turning on, or is having issues with the timer functionality, this could indicate an issue with the thermostat. Hope this helps!

Question:

I already replaced the fuse.The door switch,but it will not start.So I wanted to check the timer.How.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hi Karen, Thank you for the question, This dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. You will need to use a multi meter if you wish to test the timer. Hope this helps!

Question:

How do you check the timer switch,everything else checked out good. My dryer will not start.

Karen for model number RED4440VQ1
Answer:

Hello Karen, thank you for contacting us. If the dryer will not start and nothing works the most common part for that would be the thermal fuse PS11741460. It is a safety mechanism that stops the flow of electricity to the heating element when a dryer overheats. When this fuse is faulty, your dryer will not start or it will not heat properly. This is a one-time fuse, meaning it cannot be re-set. It must be replaced when there is no longer continuity between the terminals. Hope this helps!

Related Parts: Thermal Fuse
Question:

My dryer would get too hot and overheat. I would need to turn it off to cool down and restart. We replaced the thermostat, and internal-bias and thermal cut-off kit(but my husband did not use the new red wire in the kit) dryer worked fine for a few minutes with heat and now no heat at all. Suggestions? Thanks

Tracie for model number LTE6234DQ0
Answer:

Hi Tracie, Thank you for your inquiry. If your husband did not use the red wire in the thermal cut-off kit, that may be causing the issue. I would also check the heater to see if that is working correctly as well. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.7 / 5.0, 146 reviews What's this?
 

15 of 17 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: William from `Omak, WA

Getting to hot and shutting off after 20 minutes

I watched the installation video on both parts before I purchased them and it was a piece-of-cake after that.

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8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Timothy from Anderson, IN

Dryer would spin but no heat

First I unplugged the dryer from 240V and removed the back cover upper (behind the switch) and lower (exposing the remainder of the parts)

Inside the upper section was a folded wiring diagram of the dryer (don't know if this was courtesy of Whirlpool or another individual, but it was a very nice touch.)

I did a resistance measurement across the heating coil and found out it was fine. I then plugged the dryer back in and carefully took voltage measurements from one phase of power (this was easily accessed where the power comes in to the dryer, just be careful not to touch or short the wires)

I had an assistant turn on the dryer (this makes things go a little faster, as you are behind the dryer otherwise) and checked for 240V across the heater coil.

Once I did not have this, I kept one lead on the left side wire (one of the power phases coming into the dryer) and moved the other lead to the left (as viewed on the wiring diagram) until I no longer had 240V. This identified the faulty component as the Thermostat High-Limit, non resetable.

I ordered the kit with the High Limit NR and High limit Thermostat (as both had to be bad). I also ordered the 150 degree cycling thermostat (although this was not necessary - for <$20 I opted to replace it as well)

Removing wires one at a time, each component is fairly easy to replace.

My only complaint is that with the combo kit, the wire attachment is a little different that the original component and requires you to cut an existing wire and crimp a different terminal to allow all three wires on the High Limit thermostat (250 degrees) to be attached. There is little to show you how exactly the crimp is to be connected (it goes on the smaller of the three wires - DO NOT CUT the jumper provided and USE A GOOD CRIMPER - not the $2 variety, or you'll be getting a new connector!!) The connector provided is designed for some strain relief from one connector to the other, however) An additional jumper with the appropriate connectors already attached would be a nicer design.

Also, make sure you do NOT screw in the smaller cover that covers the power in until you place the entire lower half cover back on the dryer (unless you want to take it off a second time, as I did...) as it uses a common screw to hold both in place.

Overall, fairly easy to do with a minimum of tools, straight blade screwdriver to remove stubborn wire connectors (esp. for HT thermostat 250), ratchet and socket for quick removal and replacement of covers, and a good T&B style crimper ($10-$20 at your local hardware and well worth it even if you only use it a couple of times)

30 minutes and done - the dryer now cranks out the heat and the advanced settings (Auto dry) work great - no more 2-3 times throug to get things dry.

If you have a minimum of mechanical ability and a little bit of electronic troubleshooting skill, you can check and repair this youself and save about an $80-$100 service call.

Thanks to Part Select for the diagram of the dryer layout as well!! (Schematic would be nice if available online, though!)

Shipped the part in about 2 days from order time, as well. Will be back (hopefully not soon, though, as something has to break first!!!)

Be safe and good luck!

(One last note: Make sure your lint trap is clear including the hose - either due to build up or a lazy kid...as this probably caused the failure as heat could not escape...)

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9 of 15 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Socket set
Customer: Dennis from Purcellville, VA

The dryer burner wouldn't fire

Checked online for symptoms.
Pulled panel from front of unit (no tools required)
Vacuumed all lint from unit to see if that was a problem.
Removed the exhaust port which comes off with 3 hex head screws.

Based on the symptoms, I pulled the wires off the thermal fuse and did a continuity check on it. There was no continuity, so I knew I needed that part. Since a common reason for that to fail is the cycling thermostat allows the dryer to get too hot, I replaced that thermostat as well, just to be safe.

Due to closeness to the drum, I had to use a socket to remove the hex head screws on the two electronic parts.

Total time was about 40 mins. to diagnose and 20 mins. to replace the parts and verify correct operation.

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12 of 24 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: larry from decatur, IL

Dryer would't heat up and noticed a smell of something very hot just prior to dryer not heating up.

Prior to ordering parts i moved the dryer out and took the back off the dryer with a nutdriver. I noticed right a way the heating element was damaged and burnt up. I ordered the above parts and recieved them in two to three days. the parts on my dryer were easy to get to and I just matched up the parts i recieved and replaced them one at a time. It only took a nit driver to remove them and plug the wires back in to the new parts.
the dryer works like new again.

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4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: John M from BROWNS MILLS, NJ

Dryer would not dry clothes no heat

Followed video you give on your web site very use full used putty knife to undo clips holding on the top lifted top unplugged wire for door switch undid two bolts with socket set lifted off front panel of dryer first changed heat sensor 1 screw unclip wire put on new sensor re clip wire bottom part of sensor goes into a slot line up hole on top put screw back and tighten for the igniter kit unplug wire clip remove on screw with socket set have to put new igniter on bracket with new screw included with kit be careful no to bang igniter when replacing it replace it with screw re clip wire replace front of dryer with two bolts replug wire for door switch close top for thermal fuse and thermostat internal- bias remove nine screws on back of dryer take off panel disconnect vent on my gas dryer had to shut off gas supply and undo gas line thermostat internal -bias and thermal fuse are easy to do thermal internal bias has four wires and one screw just replace wires the way they came off replace screw same with thermal fuse two wires one screw just reverse process be sure not to mix up wires replace dryer back with screws hook up gas line check for any leaks turn on gas supply hook up vent and you should be good to go test dryer hope this help someone like others helped me.

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6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: Frank from Wingdale, NY

Dryer would not stop. Heating problem also fixed

Followed the video .... Also installed another part. which was a kit. the video here showed the third wire being installed. The video on repair clinic did not show where to attach the third wire (orange wire). The Kit and the Thermostat was installed with 25 mins. Thanks

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5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Stephen from Wilson, NY

Poor dryer performance and slow drying!

I knew that the dryer needed a new belt and since the dryer was also failing to dry the clothes in one cycle, I decided to replace the three thermostats, figuring that I might as well do all three if I'm going to open up the dryer. I downloaded a schematic of the dryer from the Whirlpool web site, which helped me to order the right parts and see how I would be able to make the repairs. Once I figured out how to get to the drum for the belt replacement, installation was quite easy.

First step was to unplug the dryer, remove the vent hose and remove the back panel with a nut driver. Once the back panel was removed, it was easy to see all three sensors. The heating element unit was easy to remove - two screws. This made it easier to replace the sensor. Each sensor was shaped differently, making it easier to decide what went where. This normally would not have been a problem, but the part numbers have changed for this dryer. I could have also cross referenced the parts by using the partselect.com web site.

To access the dryer drum, I had to remove two screws on the back of the dryer that are located in two tabs that hold the control panel to the dryer cabinet. Once removed, it was easy to lift the top of the cabinet and swing it up and against a nearby wall for support while I replaced the belt.
I removed the old belt from the motor pulley, and then just removed the whole drum. I placed the new belt around the drum, placed the drum back in position. With my wife supporting the drum, it was easy to bring the belt through a guide and slip over the motor pulley. Then, I rotated the drum manually to make sure the belt wasn't twisted.

After ten minutes of putting everything back together, it was time to plug in the dryer and test it. I did it without a load first and checked the vent for hot air. After that, we did a couple of loads...one on high and one on perma press, and when the cycle was over, the clothes were dry!

Delivery time from PartSelect was super fast! Prices are excellent, and I really appreciate such a helpful web site. Anyone with a small amount of mechanical ability and "do it yourself" experience can save $$$ by fixing it yourself. Having someone service this dryer would have cost me more just to replace the belt.....let alone the added insurance of replacing the sensors. And, I learned that if the heating element should fail, replacing it would be a snap, and would start with a visit toe partselect.com!

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9 of 20 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Lynn from Novi, MI

No heat, burner will not lite

Replaced thermal fuse, cycling thermostat, igniter kit and thermostate. Dryer still does not work, still no heat.

Have ordered gas valve solinoids to try next.

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6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Customer: Mark from Houston, TX

The landry would not dry all the way at the end of the cycle.

First i removed the rear panel on the dryer.the removed bothe thermostats that were on the blower housings.unpluged all wiers and installed new thermostats.reinstalled the wiers in there proper locations...note to log the location of the wires when removing from old switch.reinstalled the rear panel and hooked dryer back up and test.

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5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: antonio from new britain, CT

Dryer elemente went bad.

repair wasfairly easy,part select custemer stories and advice really helped.parts were shipped sooner then exepected,i will recomend part select to everyone i know.

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4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: John from HATFIELD, PA

Dryer would not start.

With the help of YouTube, I was able to watch videos of how to disassemble and reassemble the dryer. I watched a video showing where the Thermal fuse and Thermostat was located as well as how to test them with a meter. I watched another video showing how to replace the drum belt, showing step by step instructions. Without YouTube it would have been a whole different story!

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4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Chris from Taunton, MA

Clothes coming out damp, after a 60 min cycle

1. Unplug unit, next disconnect vent then remove back cover. 2. replaced element (very easy) then 2 thermostats, then put cover back on. 3. Removed frt. cover by following directions that came with maint. kit this too was easy. The hardest part is getting belt on as your putting drum back in, and even that was only so hard. Just TAKE YOUR TIME, and you will get it.

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5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Socket set
Customer: Paul from Laurel, MD

Bad disposable fuse & possible defective thermostat

Unpluged dryer power cord.
Removed lower front panel (two snap clips at top of panel)(Rear panel cannot be removed from this dryer). Removed blower/filter housing (held by two screws). Found blown fuse by using an ohm meter across the fuse terminals with one wire removed - no continuity. When new parts arrived, I removed two wires from fuse and four wires from thermostat. Removed two screws holding fuse and two screws holding thermostat, and removed both parts.
I then reversed the above procedures.
Dryer works great!
Total cost, including shipping, was $47.76

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5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver
Customer: KELVIN from DISTRICT HEIGHTS, MD

Machine was in need of new thermostats

I did my repair alone by myself after viewing a short video online at partselect.com The man in the video showed every step slowly and professionally. I took some extra time to clean the dust off behind the back of Dryer while I had it open for fixing.....thanks for your help and it saved me over $190 plus which I was quoted by technician for estimate and parts. I paid $43.00 for my parts...both High limit and Cycling thermostats were replaced. My wife told me good job honey ! You can do it too.

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3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Gerard from Huntington, WV

No heat in dryer and lint filter torn

Dryer didn't heat. I got the heating element thru sears and when I ordered it I thought I should also order the thermostats but I didn't. Element arrived two days after ordered right on time. Slipped right in in a few minutes. Turned dryer on. No heat. Went back to drawing board. Watched videos on part select site and realized I needed thermostats. Ordered them and lint filter. Arrived right on schedule and also slipped in in no time flat. Turned dryer on and yes it heated perfectly. Wife was pretty impressed with new lint filter as other one was torn with jagged edges. MY SUGGESTION: if your dryer doesn't heat and you can't test each individual item thermostats and heating element order the three of them ( high limit and cycling thermostats and heating element) cause they'll probably will all go at the same time anyway. Then won't have to wait on the second shipment if things don't work with partial replacement. Parts select was great and videos are well understood and easy to follow. Would certainly use again.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11741405
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387134
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