Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Ignitor switches shorted out
The ignitor switches are installed on top of the 4 gas valves for the range top. These switches control the electronic ignition. To replace the switch assembly the top of the range must be removed to gain access.
This was made more difficult by the fact that the screws that hold the burners to the range top were rusted and had to be drilled out so the the burners could be released from the top.
1. Disconnect the power to the range. 2. Open the top oven door. 3. Remove 2 - 1/4" sheet metal screws at the front corners of the range top assy. Remove the Burner knobs and the two Phillps screws that holds the gas valve assembly to the range top. 4. With a drill, remove the tops of the screws to release the burners from the range top. If the screws are in good condition and just unscrew them and the upper burners from the Orifice Holders. (I had to replace the orifice holders because the screws were stuck in them due to rust). 5. When the burners are free, lift the range top at the front and remove it from the range. Disconnect the ignitor wires from the ignitors on each holder. 6. To replace the Orifice Holders, disconnect the gas supply pipes from each holder by loosening the compression nut at the holder using an adjustable wrench. Secure the Orifice Holders when loosening the fittings, BE CAREFUL not to damage the aluminum gas supply pipes. 7. Note that there are 3 different Holders, be sure to use the holder that matches the specific location. 8. For LP gas fueled ranges ONLY, remove the small gas jets from the old holders and install them in place of the parts supplied with the new orifice holders. The new parts contain NATURAL GAS jets which are not compatible with LP gas. Each Different Orifice Holder uses a specific orifice or jet, make certain that the orifice matches the orifice holder. Check for leaks at the gas connections using soapy water. 9. Carefully raise the old ignitor switches (4) off the shafts of the gas valves. Note the top and bottom configuration of the switches 10. Carefully release the wires that come from the rear of the range from the rearmost switch. Press a suitable pin or other suitable tool in a the hole, beside the wire, just enough to release the wire. (Look at the NEW switch assemble to see how this works). Remove the wires from the NEW switch first to see how it is done. Repeat the process on the old switches. (you will re-use the wires that come up from the rear of the range. 11. Install the new switch assembly over the four (4) burner gas valves, take care to align the "D" shaped shafts with the holes in each valve. 12. Insert the wires in the two connections on the rearmost switch. CAUTION!!! Be sure to install the wires so that the color codes agree with the wires on the new switch assembly. Black to black and gray to gray. 13. Install the 4 clear plastic "shields" over the shafts and against the top of each switch. 14. Re-connect the ignitor wires to the burners and Re-Install the range top, in the reverse order of dis-assembly.
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
39 of 45 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
electrode clicked but failed to light burner
I first tried to remove the torx screws only to have them break off..soooo as with most home repairs it grew into a bigger task. 1) unhooked the gas line and unplugged the unit 2) place the unit upside down on workbench 3) used a socket set to remove the hex screws that held the top on 4)removed all the other burners and disconnected electrical wire connected to the igniters. 5) Removed the top 6) uses pliers to remove the screw parts left in the burner base (wd-40 and lock wrench)..Replaced the old gaskets 7) put the top back on and screwed the top back on (make sure you pull the igniter wires through the top before securing it) 8) Reseat and screw in the burners using a torx bit
I had the front right burner and back left burner always click, but never light without help from a match or lighter. So I saw how you can use rubbing alcohol to clean the ignitors with a Q-Tip. I did that, but the ceramic on the back left ignitor broke off with just a gentle cleaning. I ordered a replacement ignitor which came quickly. While waiting I had to try to get off the burner, as the Torx (star) screws were both not budging even with a little WD40. I ended up drilling both screws out. When the ignitor came I replaced it quite easily. However, all five burners started clicking and kept on clicking once I plugged the cooktop back in. Problem number two - the Spark Module or wiring had a problem. It was the Spark Module and I'll describe that repair with the next installation s=instruction I fill out.
I removed the top pulled out oil soaked insulation then decided to clean some of the parts Broke a torx screw on the burner then striped the tube and the burner so had to order the new parts and then put everything back together and it works fine again..It was my fault and the stove has not given me any problems..