High Limit Thermostat WP303395

changed the coils and the flame censer

Graet

Found the high temp thermostat was shutting off the gas after just a few seconds. Tested the thermostat and it looked like it was opening at 180 degrees as opposed to the rated 240 degrees, so I ordered one from PartSelect, which shipped the next business day. Replaced the thermostat and no luck, still shutting down after a few seconds. Turns out the duct going outside the house was blocked with years of lint stopping the air flow. Cleaned out the duct and the dryer is working fine again. Wife is happy she won't have to go to the laundromat.

I used the trouble shooting part of this site and bought the radiant flame sensor and the high limit thermostat. Installation was very easy. The original problem still persisted and then purchased the temp. control thermostat, cycling thermostat and thermal fuse. These parts installed easily as well and the problem still existed.

While using the Multimeter to determine if the gas valve coils were getting voltage during the lighting process I moved the contacts on the two wire coil and noticed that the coil would activate sporadically. As it turned out the coil had a loose connection which would contact while cool and then lose contact when the coil warmed up.

This was a tricky issue to diagnose and am now waiting for a new coil to finish the repair.

I now have an almost complete set of spare parts for electrical issues and got them at a nice price. I will keep them in the event that I might need some of them in the future.

The repair would have been easy and very straight forward thanks to this website if the actual problem hadn't been the crazy heat related bad connection in the coil. Since the flame would light during startup the coils seemed to me to be good. Actually finding a weird issue is the sort of thing I find to be the fun part of repairing things.

Thanks Parts Select ! !

Gregg heagney

Turned out to be the primary coil on the gas valve. If you remove the cover of the coils and wait for the dryer to try to start the flame the coils are energized, a magnet is turned on. By lifting the coil you should feel the magnet if the flame is on. If the flame does not come on after the ignitor fires check to see if the coils are energized. If not buy the set, it's cheaper then purchasing them separately.

The dryer was not getting hot the clothes we're damp and had to put on hangers to finish drying. I pulled the cover plate saw the element was glowing the gas cable would kick on had a flame for about a four to six second count. I did some checking on the web. I read about others who were having same type of problem. Order the limit part and now.the flame stays on for about twenty second or less the dryer gets hot and it drys fast. Thanks for the web site. It took about thirty minutes . Now it works great.

My 20 yr old Maytag dryer had experienced this problem about 10 years ago. At that time I replace the Gas Dyer Radiant Flame sensor and it fixed the problem. I figured a sensor went bad again however I opted to replace all of the sensors at once thinking I'm avoiding potential future issues and the dryer will out live me. Replacing the sensors is a piece of cake on my Maytag. A nutdriver and srewdriver was all that I needed. PartSelect was great to deal with and the parts did the trick.

took door and front off removed 2 screws and 2 wires on thermostat then reversed steps to reasemble

My 20 year old reliable Maytag 512 lgp dryer was not heating anymore. At first the heating element would glow red but not hot enough to ignite the gas. I replaced the element and it worked for a few loads but then stopped reigniting after the first cycle.

After some research and diagnosis (checking connections, amperage flow on each electriical part, etc.) I determined that the two coils were faulty. I ordered parts and replaced them (easy to do) and it worked again, for another few loads. Then nothing worked. The coil did not get hot and I did not hear the clicking sound that initiates current flow to the ignitor through the coils.

I checked the coils and ignitor again, they were fine. Frustrated, I called in a repairman to diagnose the problem. $55 and 15 min later he narrowed it down to the High Limit Thermostat. To demonstrate he bypassed the thermostat by directly connecting the two leads together and the ignitor fired right up.

His price to replace the thermostat? $45 part plus $130 labor. I bought the thermostat online for less than half his parts cost and the labor took me 5 minutes. Simply unscrew the small screws with a small socket set or nutdriver and replace the thermostat. Just two connectors, real simple.

All in all it was very easy to replace the parts, just tricky to diagnose unless you are good with electrical work.