The snubber ring is a piece that is specific to your washing machine. The function of the snubber ring is to reduce noise and vibrations within your washer. It fits in between the leg and the dome assembly. If during your spin cycle you notice your washer jumping and making loud whirring noises, you may need to replace your snubber ring. The tools you will need for this repair include: a putty knife, a 5/16 nut driver, a 1/4 inch nut driver, a 3/8 socket and a ratchet, a small flat blade screwdriver, a pair of locking pliers, and a pair of slip joint pliers.
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Mike
January 15, 2018
Hi, i replaced the snubber ring and springs on my Admiral washer but now it looks like the brake isn't working. It won't agitate properly and while it will spin, it doesn't stop when the program finishes but continues to turn under it's own momentum for a while (although it is much smoother!). Have you come across this before and, if so, is there anything obvious i should do before taking it apart again and looking at the brake assembly? Thanks in advance, mike
For model number AAV8000AGW
Hi Mike,
Thank you for your question. If the washer continues to spin after the cycle is over and it will not agitate properly, then the issue is likely with the lid switch. You will need to check the lid switch with a multimeter to check the continuity of the part to verify it is working. If it turns out that the issue is not with the lid switch, you will need to check the lid switch actuator, the agitator auger and post assembly, the transmission pulley and bearing kit, the agitator base, the drain pump, the motor pivot spring and the washer brake rotor. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Robert
June 25, 2019
We just recently purchased a snubber ring and i see there are several little bumps on the inside of this ring, are they supposed to.Be there or are they to be removed prior to installation thank you for time and asssistance robert
For model number hav2558aww
Hello Robert, thank you for your question. Those are supposed to be there, they do not need to be removed. Good luck with your repair!
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Pat
August 27, 2019
Washer fills and spins freely but when it advances to wash motor clicks and hums for a second then pauses for a short time then tries to run again, nothing. Will a new snubber ring solve the problem?
For model number MAVT546EWW
Hi Pat,
Thank you for your question. If the washer is not agitating, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. Here is a link from our website that you may reference on what parts to check, https://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSymptoms.aspx?ModelNum=MAVT546EWW&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=1&ModelMasterID=51309&PID=34. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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George
January 31, 2020
During wash cycle it sounds like some rocks being washed, during spin cycle clothing still very wet, seems as though spin cycle not spinning fast enough
For model number Admiral AAV7000AWW
Hi George. This may be a faulty drive belt part number PS11738882. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair.
Hi my washer in spin cycle spins but does not go into the high speed spin to get all the water out of the clothes. I have replaced the belt and it didn't help. What else can it be?
For model number AAV7000AWW
Hello George, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking for wear or damage to the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit, PartSelect Number PS2003651.The kit is used to help the washer drain, and may need to be replaced if the washer is experiencing slow or no spin. We hope this helps.
I replaced the thrust washer & belt because of slow spin. Washer still does not spin fast enough to displace much water from the clothes. As it is spinning it is still trying to agitate. What may be my problem?
For model number MAV2755AWW
Hello Steven, If your washer is not spinning there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the the transmission and bearing, the drive belt, the drain pump, the washer brake rotor, the snubber ring, the motor with pulley, the brake stator, the motor pivot spring, the lid switch, the lid switch actuator and the brake spring. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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William
May 7, 2019
I'm having trouble figuring out this washer. It agitates, but does not spin. It begins to spin, but doesn't spin more than 3-4 inches or so. I guess that's a turn.I've replaced the thrust bearing (kit). i put pressure on the motor mount, to tighten the belt, but no results from that either. the motor seems to spin well. is it supposed to spin counter clockwise (opposite the agitation) during the spin cycle?
i'm at wit's end here....
thanks,
bill
For model number MAV9657EWQ
Hi William,
Thank you for your question. If the washer will not spin, there are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the transmission pulley and bearing, the drive belt, the drain pump, the snubber ring, the motor with pulley, the motor pivot spring and the brake stator. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Barry
October 3, 2021
Maytag washer stopped spinning but pumps the water out. How do I resolve this problem
For model number MAV6548AWW
Hello Barry, Thank you for the question. The most common issues is a worn or broken Belt. We suggest checking the Belt first to verify it is intact. If the Belt is good, you can check the Transmission Pulley and Bearing Kit for wear or damage. We hope this helps!
Washer doesn’t spin at high speed. Spins but not fast enough to get water out clothing. Changed belt and pulley kit on bottom of transmission
For model number MAV408DAWW
Hello Chuck, thank you for contacting us. If replacing the belt and pulley kit does not solve the issue, we would recommend checking the motor, part number FIX11738839. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you require assistance placing an order. Thanks again for reaching out!
Average Repair Rating: 2.5 / 5.0, 70 reviews.
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Washer jumping in spin cycle (white flakes under the washer)
Unlug the AC cord,open the top from the front it snaps open with a little force and hinges on the back, remove the 2 screws on the front cover and take it off, tip the washer and remove the belt, take off the pump hose from the back (I removed the back cover also) and the little hose going to the basket. Remove the 6 springs and lift the complete drum out of the waser and turn it upside down. You can see the plastic snubber ring that is worn, loosen the 6 screws just enough to get the old ring out and the new one in. WARNING (DO NOT TAKE THE SCREWS ALL THE WAY OUT OR THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY WILL RELEASE AND A SPECIAL TOOL IS NEEDED TO PUT IT BACK) Install the new ring, tighten the screws and put the tub back in connecting everything back up and use the 6 new springs. It really isn't that hard to do.
EXCESSIVE Banging, shaking and squeaking while on Spin Cycle
1)Start with empty washing machine. 2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines 3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips. 4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub. 5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out. 5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs. 6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly. 7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub. 8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley. 9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around. 10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber. 11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex. 12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top. 13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it. 14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation. 15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)
watched online video help. removed washer panels. removed washer springs. disconnected hoses. pulled tub out and placed on top to expose. snubber ring. replaced snubber ring, placed tub back into proper space. replaced old springs with new set. reconnect hoses. Washer ran perfect. Was about to spend $800.00 on new washer but only spent $43.00 in parts and a few hours labor and good as new
First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.
make loud rubbing noise like a finger on wet glass
It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit. Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.
1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring
2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top * unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine * tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center * lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop * remove the auger * remove the white top from the tub * remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub * now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers. * remove the tub
3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down * remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws * remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws * now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw * remove the brake guts and replace with new
4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew
5) re-assembly is opposite of removal* * the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer
My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!
I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience: 1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors. 2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch. 3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer. 4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws. 5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp. 6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel. 7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it. 8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp. 9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s. 10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts. 11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump. 12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs. 13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place. 14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt. 15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur
Hank from Alpharetta, GA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Socket set
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terrible screeching during agitation after having washer only 3 months
First I disconnected the hoses and moved washer out to a larger area. Washer had to be completely torn down. Took front cover and casing off. Took all electrical and plumbing fixtures out. Removed the drum hold-down springs. Removed the drive belt. Inverted the drum/agitator section. Removed the drive pulley and bearing assembly. Removed the brake snubber. Removed the brake shoe. Reinstalled new parts. Put washer back together. It now works great.
Washer jumping all over the place even with a small load.
I checked out your other repair information and deided I could do this. Ordered the part and it as her several days before I expected it.
Ok, let's do this thing.
MAGIC TOOLS: 5/16" socket or wrench and #2 Phillips screwdriver and something to remove hose clamps - I recomend a 6" to 8" vice grips and a 6" to 8" plires.
1. Pulled the washer out in the middle of the floor and disconnected the hoses and removed the rear access cover, disconnected the pump hose, released the top using a 1/8' common screwdriver in that narrow space between the top and the front panel. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on and removed the front panel.
2. Disconnected fill level hose- toward the left rear side - turned the machine on it's side and walked the drive belt off, tipped it back up right and removed the 6 springs - be sure to note their orientation and location.
3. Lifted the whole assembly out of the top of the machine and set it upside down next to the machine.
4. Loosened the screws holding the snubber in place - NOTE I did not remove the screws - loosen them sequentially little by little untill you can get the snubber to come out. I did not remove the pulley as my Craftsman ratchet and standard - short - socket allowed me to get between the pulley and the screws to loosen them.
5. I removed the old well worn snubber, cleaned the area up and the new snubber actually fell into place and I retightened the screws in the reverse order until they were solid feeling.
6. I lifted the assembly back into the frame, reconnected the springs and the pump hose and the fill level hose. I reinstalled the front cover - AND HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART!
7. You are so happy this is going so well that you forget to put the BELT back on before you hook up the hoses, so you have to unhook the hoses to put the belt back on and then rehook the hot and cold hoses and drain hose again.
8. Except for number 7 this is a piece of cake. My only concern is how often will I have to do this. The machine is only 8 years old.
Gary from Sioux City, IA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
1- 2 hours
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
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replaced snubber ring and springs to stop unbalanced spinning
Move washer to area with plenty of room. I took mine out to the deck. take off front of cabinet remove back panel, remove old springs, (a bit hard) remove belt, lift out tub turn over and loosen screws do not remove!! remove old snubber and replace with new, Not bad. Put tub back in washer put on new springs(didn't think I'd ever get them on, not enough upperbody strength)Video would have been priceless! reattach belt and panels put washer back in place. No noise upon spinning but I now have issues with the agitator, Need a new washer!
Kim from qPeachland, NC
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
21 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Washing Machine Beat Itself To Death During Spin Cycle
Removed front cabinet, removed 6 springs holding tub down, removed pump hose, removed drive belt from motor,lifted tub out the top and placed upside down, loosened all six hex bolts(did not loosen or remove drive pulley) backed all six bolts out and left 4 threads showing, slipped old snubber out cleaned all surfaces with alchohol and slid new snubber in. Put corn starch on base where snubber rides, lifted tub back in, hooked up all six tension springs with auto brake tool. Put belt back on. . . Done. . No more beating itself to death.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
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★★★★★
★★★★★
David S - December 21, 2022
Verified Purchase
Great fit. Back in business.
Good as new!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Vic R - February 3, 2021
Verified Purchase
Easy fix
Parts got here fast, video online to guide repair.
★★★★★
★★★★★
JOHN G - May 7, 2020
Verified Purchase
Solved the walking washer
Had looked at reviews and comments about what would make the washer bounce and jump all over the place for being out of balance, most suggested the snubber ring. This was absolutely correct. Very easy directions on how to replace. Washer functions again normally, although on heavy loads it does still vibrate, but does not move from its position. Had ordered2, but washer only needs one.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Joshua M - December 3, 2019
Verified Purchase
Did the trick!
Washing machine couldn’t handle anything heavier than a dish towel before replacing the snubber ring. New parts brought it back to its glory. The video was essential and made the job a piece of cake. Thanks!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Evonne C - June 14, 2019
Verified Purchase
Washing machine part
Have ordered several.parts. All have come
Quickly very pleased
★★★★★
★★★★★
Stephen S - May 7, 2019
Verified Purchase
No more "walking away"!
This ... With 4 new feet ... Put my ol' Admiral in one place ... And it stayed there! Bought in '96 ... First time I have ever replaced it in '19.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Owen B - April 23, 2019
Verified Purchase
Moderately difficult-worked great, solved our problem
the washer would walk out of place and hardly ever completed full wash cycles without having to be rebalanced
Had to take washer sides, top, and tub off to get at the snubber ring
The new part worked great.
It saved us from having to buy a new washer..
Appliance is in good working order
★★★★★
★★★★★
Dan C - April 5, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy to replace
After watching the how to do video. It was easy but I took my time and the part fit perfectly and fixed the problem.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Jim B - December 14, 2018
Verified Purchase
Works as expected..
Somewhat a major job, since the entire tub and transmission assembly must be removed. However, the first one is always a learning experience. The snubber worked as expected. My washing machine no longer walks the floor. Thanks
★★★★★
★★★★★
Joseph K - November 19, 2018
Verified Purchase
Exactly what we needed
The part was perfect and easy to replace. The washer now works well!
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