Overload Relay Combination WP12555902

Remover rear cover at bottom of refrigerator. The replacement run capacitor was the same as the original one. The replacement Overload Relay Combination was slightly different. It plugged onto the compressor the same, but the connector where the power came in from the wiring harness was different. I had to cut off the original connector from the wiring harness, and then splice in new connectors onto those two wires which I could then attach to the replacement Overload Relay Combination. Fortunately the connectors I needed were fairly common and I had those available. After that it worked. My suspicion is that the Run Capacitor was fine, and it was just the Overload Relay Combination that failed. Replacing the capacitor without replacing the Overload Relay Combination did not fix the problem.

disconnected wire connections, pulled old overload relay and running capacitor out like a plug and plug in the new one then reconnected the wires.

I didn't do it, my husband did. He removed the back panel and used an ohm meter to check the compressor and found that that was working so he decided to replace the overload relay and capacitator. He has an hour lunch and since the parts were in he decided to change it during his lunch hour. The minute he had them replaced....voila!! Cold again! We had a different fridge that had the same problem, but we thought it would be too expensive to fix so we junked it......wish we would have tried this!!! So proud of the hubby!

Open back cover and check thecomprosser and ffan. Fan was working and compresore was very hot and freon pipes are not cold. Check the connectivity with the resistor meter on compressor and all 3 pin were checked out ok. that means compressor is ok. Then check overload relay and there was a short butn out. take the part # and order from partselect and i got in 3 days costiing me less than $ 20.00. replaced relay and frezzecompressor start colling the syatem.

unplug Ref. and on back of Ref., take back panel off to locate compressor. Attached to the compressor are 2 small parts, secured to the Ref. w/ a small clip. Remove the clip w/ a pair of plyers. Remove the Capacitor (white plastic electric part)form the Compressor - the black overload relay will come off with it. Plug the new relay in to the Capactor. Locate the two wires (used to connect the Ref. to the Capacitor) from the Ref, unplug them from the old Capacitor/Relay and plug them in to the new part(s). Plug the new parts back in to the Compressor. Reinstall the the small metal clip that holds the Capacitor/Relay in place. Plug Ref. back in - if no noise, parts have worked (allow 5+ mintues to test).

I could hear a loud hum from the compressor motor cycling on/off every 5-10 seconds. Pulled the capacitor and relay switch from the compressor. Checked compressor terminals with ohmmeter, no shorts to ground so it was ok. A gravely substance rained out of the overload relay switch when I removed it, so I assumed it was bad. Didn't need to check the capacitor as it was only another $20 or so to replace. Also didn't notice any oily residue that would signify a coolant leak, so assumed the system was still pressurized. New relay switch and capacitor plugged right in, no tools needed. Re-secured the assembly with it's original keeper clip wire and I was done. Plugged it in and made sure it was cooling properly before replacing the various back cover panels. Like a new reefer! Couldn't have been easier. Just be careful with the capacitor when you remove it. It could hold a lethal electric charge.

I took off the faceplate on the back to access the compressor and took off the overload relay switch from the compressor. The overload fit on the compressor correctly. The top quick connect did not fit on the overload so I had to cut the quick connect off and replace the wires with correct size clamps and replace. It has been working fine.