Water Inlet Valve - 120V

I first had to identify the faulty part. I ohms checked the micro switch in the door. It was fine. I traced the wiring to the inlet valve at the bottom of the rear of the unit. I checked the voltage to the solenoids and it was good. After checking the schematics on the Whirlpool website, I determined the only possible faulty part was the inlet valve. I found the correct part here on PartSelect and ordered it. When the part arrived I changed out inlet valves by turning off the water supply, unplugging the refrigerator, removing the two inlet valve mounting screws, and disconnecting the wire terminals. The inlet water line was a 1/2" compression nut and the water and ice outlets were hand turn compression nuts. I reversed the removal steps to install the new valve, turned the water on, checked for leaks, plugged in the refrigerator, and the new valve worked perfectly. The feeling of accomplishing a DIY project was only topped by a happy wife who really didn't want to spend the money on a new fridge!

The installation was very easy.
Unplug the refrigerator.
Turn off the water supply and disconnect from the old valve.
Remove the old valve and disconnect power connectors for each valve, disconnect the Ice maker water tube and the Water dispenser tube.
Because of the new replacement part, I needed to cut the threaded connectors off of the water tubes. Carefully make straight cuts.
Insert the tubes into the correct inlet valves, make sure they are inserted properly, 1 for ice maker, 1 for water dispenser.
Connect the power connectors to the new valve.
Mount the valve onto the refrigerator.
Connect the water supply.
Turn on the water supply valve. Check for leaks.
Plug in the refrigerator.
Test water dispenser and then ice making capabilities.

Seems like a lot of steps, but they are logically connected for this repair. Easy replacement.

First we knew that the water valve wasn't shutting all the way off with all that ice build up. So we shut off the water. We defrosted the refrigerator! Let it stand open door all night. Checked the new water valve with the old one and exact fit. Cut off the water lines as the new valve had push fittings. The main feed line was still compression fitting. We added a new in-line water filter as there was no filter on the old valve water supply line. So hope this helps with the new valve life. Was an easy fix and any handy man can do this job.

Initially I though we had a bad water inlet value and possible ruptured/cracked water line to the icemaker. Once I replaced the water inlet value, water continued to leak from top connection of the hose into the ice water fill tube and at bottom connection into the dual water inlet value. I discovered by reading back through PartSelect's troubleshooting and answers that the problem might be the ice water fill tube. Once I removed it (2 screws and some tugging) it came right out. I saw that it was frozen solid with a plug of ice restricting water from filling the ice maker. I used my wife's hair dryer to melt the ice plug and reattach. Within 30 minutes we had our initial batch of ice. I did in the end have to replace the water line between the water inlet value and the ice maker to get the water leak repaired. I've returned the water inlet value to PartSelect for credit.

Great Job PartSelect from a satisfied customer

removed old valve installed new one

I closed the water valve under my kitchen sink feeding the inlet valve, then moved fridge forward, removed cardboard cover used nut driver. removed water inlet valve. The water lines on the old valve had connections with nuts threaded on. On the new valve just needed inserting the water lines all the way in. Re- mount the valve and install the cardboard cover. open the water. ready to go. Then I pushed the fridge back to its place.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding valve to fridge, disconnected the electric wires and water line. Pulled valve out and cut water tubes and inserted into new valve and reconnected all electric and water. Icemaker works great and no leaks.