Water Tube Kit W10823511

Watched the video

Unscrewed clamp holding water tube to refrigerator ice maker. Pulled water tube from ice maker and water valve inlet. Cut the new tubing to the exact same length and inserted one end to the water valve inlet and the other end to the ice maker then screwed clamp holding water tube back to the refrigerator ice maker.

Initially I though we had a bad water inlet value and possible ruptured/cracked water line to the icemaker. Once I replaced the water inlet value, water continued to leak from top connection of the hose into the ice water fill tube and at bottom connection into the dual water inlet value. I discovered by reading back through PartSelect's troubleshooting and answers that the problem might be the ice water fill tube. Once I removed it (2 screws and some tugging) it came right out. I saw that it was frozen solid with a plug of ice restricting water from filling the ice maker. I used my wife's hair dryer to melt the ice plug and reattach. Within 30 minutes we had our initial batch of ice. I did in the end have to replace the water line between the water inlet value and the ice maker to get the water leak repaired. I've returned the water inlet value to PartSelect for credit.

Great Job PartSelect from a satisfied customer

Remove the cardboard back cover and the vertical metal strip, all the screws are the same on the back. Remove the front bottom cover, those screws are all the same but longer. The tubing is bad because they tucked it in on the side and it rubbed and wore a hole in it. Remove the tubing nut. You may notice that there is an insert in the tubing, but the new tubing has no insert because it is thicker walled and does not the insert because it is stronger. The nut and compression ring are one piece. Open the front door and pull the tube out of the metal plate to the left, and cut the tube off at the end to remove the metal ring, and to make it easier to pull it out. Pull the tube out from the back, but first carefully remove the sticky gray putty, and put it aside. You might also bend the copper line to the right a little if it is putting pressure on the tube at the top of the unit. Now pull the tubing out, and use it to make the new tube the proper length, You might also want to first tape the new tube to the old tube to fish it through. I did not. It was tricky fishing the tube in from the back of the unit to the resevoir. If you do it my way, then aim it to the right. I got it on the second try and felt lucky. Once you get the tube in there, put the metal ring back on the new tube, and press it into the metal plate to the right. You can feel the groove and hole in the metal plate. I think the metal ring goes under the plate, but honestly I don't think you need the ring on the new tube because it has a thicker wall and is stiffer, so it won't pop out. Make sure you put the putty back in once you have completely installed the tubing. I think this is important to keep the tubing from sweating and to help keep the ice bin cold, like insulation. Do not put the tubing back along the left side of the unit, or you will be replacing it again, but maybe not with the thicker walled tubing. When you are all done, check to make sure your sump pump works by pouring water into the ice tub, if it is plugged in and you do not hear the pump, or the water backs up, then your pump may be bad. I also pulled a piece of white plastic out of the clear tubing just above the pump and never did find where that came from, but it would have been from the ice bin. I then ran a cleaning cycle and the instructions say if there was water still in the resevoir, then do another cleaning. My resevoir was full, so I did another cleaning. IF YOUR RESEVOIR IS FULL, THEN YOU NEED A NEW UPPER PUMP! Mine is on order. Mine was full after both cleanings, and after trying to make ice, I realized what the problem was. It could be that it is very clogged, but they don't appear to be serviceable, and I never heard it try to run. I did hear the lower pump, compressor, and fan all run previously, so I hope that when the new pump is installed, the unit is not low on refrigerant or anything like that. Fingers crossed, and good luck.

Followed the video on parts page. I was worried I would brake the cover but learned from the video the right way to remove the front plate. I found the video very informing. Thank you for saving me a service call and the part cost was minimal compared to a new refrigerator .

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.

JLB

i wasn't sure it was the inlet valve unit because the leak was at the water dispenser in the freezer door. after some research it looked like the water inlet valve located in the back lower part of the refrigerator was the problem. to replace, take off the cardboard cover, about 6 screws, you have access to the water inlet valve, disconnect the hoses (i think it goes without saying that you should have turned off the water to the frig) replace the inlet valve, connect hoses, turn water back on and you'll be back in business. very easy repair.