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11722098-1-S-Whirlpool-3949247V-Lid Switch
11722098-1-S-Whirlpool-3949247V-Lid Switch 11722098-2-S-Whirlpool-3949247V-Lid Switch 11722098-3-S-Whirlpool-3949247V-Lid Switch https://www.partselect.com/Schematics/Whirlpool/7NYTDZSB.gif

Lid Switch

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PartSelect Number PS11722098
Manufacturer Part Number 3949247V
Manufactured by Whirlpool

This is a lid switch for a washing machine. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the washing machine that the lid is closed, which allows the wash cycle to begin. The washer will not spin if the machine senses the lid is open. The tools youll need for this repair are a Phillips screwdriver and 5/16 nut driver. Be sure to disconnect the power supply and fill hoses from the appliance. When reinstalling the harness, take notice of the flat edges on the plastic terminal; they should face towards the front of the washer. This is a genuine OEM part.

This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, KitchenAid, Kenmore, Roper, Inglis, Estate, Crosley.

This part works with the following products: Washer.

This part fixes the following symptoms:

  • Will not drain.
  • Timer will not advance.
  • Will Not Start.
  • Pumps but will not spin.
  • Will not agitate.
  • Will not fill with water.
  • Lid or door will not open.
  • Not draining.
  • Touchpad does not respond.
  • Lid or door won’t close.

Videos For installing this part.

Questions & Answers

Ask our experts a question on this part and we'll respond as soon as we can.

Most Helpful

Question:

How will I know if I have a bad lid switch?

Thomas
Answer:

Hello Thomas, great question! The easiest thing to listen for is a clicking sound. If you do not hear the clicking sound next step is to use a multi-meter tool to check for a closed continuity when shut. I hope this helps.

18 people found this helpful.

Most Recent

Question:

So my washing machine is filling up with water and agitating but not draining. I did previously replace the washer pump, but I have no idea what the problem is now. Could it be as simple as the lid switch?

Sam
Answer:

Hi Sam, if your washer does not drain you should check the lid switch assembly for fault first, as it is the most common problem in this case. To test it use an Ohm meter and check for continuity. If this is not the problem you will have to then test the motor, and the motor coupling. This can be tested with a multi-meter tool, and is the second most common reason for a washer to have no drain symptoms. Good luck with the repair.

9 people found this helpful.
Question:

The power is on in my washer, and there is nothing wrong in the fuse panel but yet my washer will still not spin. What should I check first, do you think it is the lid switch? I’m so lost, please help!

Sasha
Answer:

Hi Sasha, we recommend starting with the lid switch because it is the easiest and most common reason for a washer to not spin. Please let us know if you have any further questions!

5 people found this helpful.

Installation Instructions Provided by PartSelect customers like you.

Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 169 reviews What's this?
 

1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Carol from FRANKLIN, TN

Washer stopped during a cycle when I lifted the lid to add another article to the wash.

I first checked to see what the likely problem was. I watched (several times) a video demonstrating how to replace the part. Figuring I could do it myself, I ordered the part. When it arrived, a friend joined me and we followed the video step-by-step. That's how we fixed the washer.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Tana from ANAMOOSE, ND

Safety agitation switch quit

My son-in-law watched the video on the website and fixed it just fine.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Robert from DENVER, CO

No spin cycle or drain

First I unplugged the washer. siphoned out old water. I then took the decorative plates off from the top sides, with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the (2) Phillips head screws from the head, and tilted the head back. After removing the two clips from the top of the washer (near the head) with a flat head screw driver. I then pulled the body of the washer out. Tilting it back and laying it on the floor I removed the clips (Flat head) and the ground wire 5/16 socket. I then reversed, following the process step for step, putting the new switch in and putting the washer back together. Plugged it in, ran a empty small load (no clothes) with Clorox to clean tub.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Bonnie from SAVAGE, MN

Washer quit mid cycle. It would not spin.

I watched your video on how to replace the lid switch. It was right on step by step. Better than the video on youtube. Just follow the instructions on the video.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Terry from E LIVERPOOL, OH

Lid switch quit working. Had to push on lid to finish wash cycle.

Your video was instrumental in making this an easy job. Only hang-up we had was having to rewatch the video to see how those curly clamps went on the top. Love that you offer the repair videos!

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: More than 2 hours
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Thomas from BROWNSBURG, IN

Machine would fill & agitate but would not drain or spin.

Disassembled machine before I figured out the problem. Had taken the housing and pump off. (pump was not the problem. housing may not have needed to come off.) Found a folded schematic inside control housing. It was hard to understand, and I am an Electrician, but after studying it for an hour I realized the machine would fill and agitate with the lid open but would not drain unless lid was closed. This made me go back to the lid switch on the troubleshooting list. Using an ohm meter (or continuity tester) I was able to check the switch at the connector in the (under) control housing with the lid open & closed. Do not be fooled, if I pushed the switch far enough it made but not with the lid so it was bad (worn out). It might could be changed with the housing on but it would be hard. The housing comes off pretty easy but leave the back on and all that attaches to it. The control head flips up after anchor screws come out and can stay with the back but you need to support it, the plastic hinges are fragile and to drop this would be trouble. With the back screws out of the housing only and the control head flipped up (pull slightly forward and roll up) the body housing will tilt forward and lift off. The rest is obvious and reassembly is just reverse. This machine is 16 years old, but I only do 1 load a week, good save. Good luck.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: bruce from PACIFIC, MO

Lid switch broke off. Plastic holes broke off of the old switch

took the 2 screws out of the timer cover, in the back, slid the timer cover forward. Unplugged the old switch, from the connector. Took the 2 screws out of the bottom of the back sheet metal cover, and rolled it forward. removed the 2 spring steel clips that hold the cable out of the way, unscrewed the ground wire. Had the old switch in my hand. Reversed the procedure. Perfect repair. Thank you for the great service. I wili be a returning customer whenever I need an FSP part. Thank you... Bruce

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Very Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Riwen from Miramar, FL

My washer won't drain or spin.

I replaced the lid switch.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: Timothy from HAMPSTEAD, NC

Washer would fill and agitate but would not drain

Your website has by far the best step by step instructions and videos. I followed each step. Being able to watch someone else make the repair is invaluable. I have to say I was very sceptical of the list of most likely parts at issue, but it was dead on. I would recommend you to anyone.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: 15 - 30 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Socket set
Customer: Donald D from St. Paul, MN

Washer would fill but would not spin or drain.

Replaced the lid assembly and it is working great.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 1- 2 hours
Tools: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Ray from Winston Salem, NC

The washer would prewash and just stop. I could tap the lid and then it would continue to wash.

I removed The two screws on the back of the timer control console and flipped backward. Then removed the two spring retainers. Then pulled sides front and top forward to get to the switch and wires. replaced the switch and reversed the procedure to complete the repair. All went well. Very easy. Thanks

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Really Easy
Time to do repair: Less than 15 mins
Tools: Screw drivers
Customer: Susan from Indianapolis, IN

My washer would spin and I needed a lid switch

I didn't do the repair a friend of mine did the repair and it was extremely quick and easy. I probably could have done it myself if I had had some tools. But what I really liked about PartSelect was their quick service. I ordered the part one day, and it told me online that it would be three to five days before it got there. I was fine with that, but when I got home the next evening, it was at my house. And also you had the lowest prices on the internet and my own city. By far the best service anyone can ask for! Thank you, my washer is like new again.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Screw drivers, Wrench set
Customer: Steve from Quincy, IL

Would not drain and spin dry

I removed the old switch by leaning the tub to one side in order to get my hands between the tub and the body of the washer. When I pulled the connection out where it connects to the control panel the control panel connecter was not attached and came loose. I had to remove the control panel enough to get my hand in far enough to grab the connector. Once I got them connected it was simply a matter of putting every thing back together. I did not have my manual that may have given me a better idea of what I was getting into. It was done mostly by feel as I was unable to see how things were assembled. The good news, it's done and it works.

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Customer: William from Gonzales, LA

Cut off swich wasn't working and the tub wouldn't spin

UNPLG THE MACHINE FROM ELECTRICAL OUTLET:

Open the top lid and remove the two screws that attaches the cut off switch to the top of the washing machine. Remove the screw on each end of the control panel, (they are angled down and are quite long). Now lift the control panel back over the top of itself. The plug for the cut off switch comes up from below in front of the control panel (very easy to see) and unplug it from the plug going to the control panel. I believe you have to squeeze the sides of one of the plugs to disconnect them. Once disconnected they pull apart. .

Remove the two clamps (if you are like me and can’t remember how things come off take a digital picture before removing the clamps) that attach the washer top to the back panel of the washing machine. Use a screwdriver and insert in the end of the clamp facing you of the clamp and pry the clamp upward, repeat with the other clamp.

The body of the washing machine will now easily tilt back, away from the control panel. I suggest you put something about a foot high down in the front to let the body rest on while performing the rest of the replacement. Helps keep it in place when you tilt it back up to reattach the clamps.

Take a nut driver and remove the ground wire from the body of the washer panel. There are two clamps that secure the cut off switch wire and the plastic covering to the top of the body. These clamps can be pried open to remove the wiring. No need to remove the clamps. The new switch is now ready to be installed. In the reverse sequence of removal

Replace the two screws to secure the switch to the top of the machine. Tighten them down until flush and tight. Tightly reattach the ground wire in the same hole you removed it from. Insert the wiring and plastic covering back into the clamps that you secured the old wiring and wiring cover.

Now tilt the body of the machine upward and make sure it lines up so you can align the clamps properly to the rear panel of the machine. The body will be wobbly feeling until the clamps are reseated. Insert the clamp in the rear panel first and then pull them down and forcibly insert it in the proper holes in the washer body. Repeat for the second clamp. Check to make sure everything feels tight and no longer wobbly. Tilt the control panel back down and reattach the two original screws. Remember they angle down and are quite long. It may take a couple of times to make sure they are lined up with the holes thay came out of.

Plug the machine back up. Turn the control knob to spin and close the lid. If the tub spins and then stops when the lid is raised everything is working


Hope this helps, I went into quite a bit of detail because it can appear to require a lot of knowledge for someone without mechanical experience. If you follow the instructtions you will do fine. There are also other very good instruction on here. If some of my instructions seem confusing check another poster and see if maybe they were able to explain it with less confusing language.

Bill P
Louisiana

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1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful

Parts Used:
  • Lid Switch
Level of Difficulty: Easy
Time to do repair: 30 - 60 mins
Tools: Pliers, Screw drivers
Customer: Brian from Ridgefield, CT

Lid switch failed & wash would not spin w/out lid closed

I was able to install only removing the 2 back screws off the control panel and by tilling that back. The control panel is on hinges so only 2 screws and pull forward and flip up. I didn’t removing anything else.

I hardest part was removing and reinstalling the ground wires. I have long fingers and just tilted the washer drum to the one side to reach in with pliers to remove and reinstall the ground wire screw. If you don’t have long fingers this might be a bit harder to do.

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Model Cross Reference

This part works with the following models:

PartSelect Number: PS11722098
Manufacturer Part Number: 3949247V
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