Clutch Housing Assembly with Mode Shifter

Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar

Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers
1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube)
2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate
3. Remove small bolt under cap
4. Remove bottom Tub Plate
5. Remover washer
6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench)
6a. Remove the large washer under nut
NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed.
7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom.
NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all
8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be.
9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way.
10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position
11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose.
Almost there....
12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate.
13. Remove the clutch and drive.

NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be

14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.

15. Assembly is the reverse:

Last Notes:
*Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up.
*Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts
*Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug
*Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern.
*The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight.
*The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores.
*I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.


Good luck, you can do it.

Getting the old part out was not too hard, but had a couple challenges. Watched a video from RepairClininc that detailed the process very thoroughly. Definitely use an impact gun to remove the drum nut inside the drum. My drum was stuck on the shaft pretty good. Would not lift off. Removed the rotator, stator and diverter motor on the bottom, and took out all the bolts securing the clutch. Had to use a hammer to tap the shaft out from inside the drum. Then the clutch dropped out the bottom and I was able to remove the drum. Installation went smooth. Just remember the order you took stuff off and the position of the parts. They need to go on the same or the electrical connectors won't reach.

Removed the inner tub laid the washer on its side with a blanket under it and Removed the assembly then the shaft assembly.
Installed the new assembly and re assembled the rest of the washer (top and bottom) and plugged it in. Works great. TIP: you will need a big socket set for the tub retaining nut.

I can’t really say it was easy and I just did it

Everthing went to plan except the wet side of the parts removal was difficult. used puller to remove the wash plate and got it to release. But the plastic part of the wash plate released and left the aluminum part still on the coupling. Corrision was the problem, and I had to again use a puller to remove this part of the wash plate. So it wasn't a matter of just lifting the wash plate off by hand. The rest of the replacement was fine.