This part is sold individually and is for ranges. The control switch turns the surface element on and off and determines the temperature of the element. This will need to be changed if the control switch has failed and the cooktop is not turning on. It is found underneath the glass cooktop. Before beginning, make sure the circuit breaker is off. You will need to remove the cooktop from the counter. To do this you will need to go underneath and see what kind of brackets are holding it in place. The brackets will vary depending on the make and model and type of countertop is it laying on. These brackets will need to be removed.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Matthew B - October 13, 2022
Verified Purchase
Right switch, wrong shaft length.
The part fits the appliance, but the shaft was a lot longer than the original part. I had to cut the shaft to length with a hack saw.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Joanne T - May 27, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Thanks for the quick service
★★★★★
★★★★★
Kevin M - October 22, 2019
Verified Purchase
Worked perfect
Exact part I needed. Easy install. Fast delivery.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Kathleen W - October 12, 2018
Verified Purchase
worked as expected
Part was delivered quickly and relatively easy to install. Would order from them again.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Robert B - July 18, 2018
Verified Purchase
Right part on time.
Delivery was so fast I had to go back I time to get it.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Sheryl R - June 30, 2018
Verified Purchase
Quick and easy
Fixed the problem
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.8 / 5.0, 11 reviews.
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Replace Infiniti Switch
Turn off breaker, disconnect electrical wiring, remove cooktop from courter top, turn over , remove switch.
Ezekiel from FLORISSANT, MO
Difficulty Level:
Very Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Front left burner not heating enough
June 2019 0. TURNED OFF CIRCUIT BREAKER !!! 1. Lifted cooktop out of counter cutout. (It wasn't anchored) 2. I had just enough slack in the armored power cable to set the cooktop on the edge of the countertop cutout. 3. Removed black plastic control knobs 4. Removed about a dozen short screws around perimeter of c
... Read moreooktop. I think those were phillips head screws. 5. Lifted glass top straight up. Had to wiggle it a bit, to get the rubber washers on the control shafts, to slide up. 6. The new heater element did not have the 2 alignment brackets. These brackets have holes that slip over metal pins at each end. So, I removed the brackets from the old element, and attached them to the new element. 7. Set new heater element on top of old. Using needle nose pliers, pulled wires off of old element and clipped onto new element - ONE AT A TIME. 8. Slide old element out, and place new element brackets over alignment pins. 9. Now, on to the Infinite control switch. Removed a few screws around the metal housing that the controls are attached to. 10. Removed the 2 screws that hold the control to the metal housing. 11. Switched wires from old control to new - ONE AT A TIME. (Pay attention to the position of the wire blades on the control, and align it to match the old control, so that you will get the wires from the old control, onto the correct blades of the new control.) 12. Attached new control to metal housing, using 2 screws. 13. Re-assemble - Place glass top over control shafts. 14. Attach glass top by installing all of those short screws around the perimeter. 15. Place cooktop back into countertop cutout. 16. Turn on the circuit breaker. 17. Test all heating elements. ------------- Other notes - I actually removed the entire cooktop, including disconnecting the power connection, so that we could replace our kitchen countertop. One issue was that the new quartz countertop was 3/8" thinner than the old Formica top. So, the bottom of the cooktop was resting 3/8" lower than before. The shallow drawer below the cooktop was now hitting the bottom of the cooktop. My solution was to cut 3/8" off the back of the drawer. Problem solved. Good luck y'all.
Really easy. Part came in rapid time and was the right part. Went on web and got instructions with video how to install.
kathleen from Wynantskill, NY
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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Control awitch was bad
Just note the wire colors and match them where they go on the new control, remove and replace 7 screws and a zip tie and I was done.
Gary from CLEARWATER, FL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
3 of 3 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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knob thermostat burnt out
it went well as compared to getting a new ~~800$ cooktop and ~~150 to install, I took a shot for 30$ bucks and it worked great!! problem solved and great support ! !! thanks for all your help
John from CENTERPORT, NY
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Pliers
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The main burner on our GE glass cooktop stopped working. It would glow red and work for a second, then go black.
I thought it was the burner thermostat, so I replaced the burner unit. By coincidence, the ceramic outer portion of the burner was cracked in two places, but otherwise intact. That was not the problem, though since the new burner did the same thing as the old one. Then I new it was the Infinite Control Switch, so I ordered it. Repl
... Read moreacing it was easy. I turned off the cooktop circuit breaker and made sure no power was going to it. It is powered by 240 volts so you need to be very careful to turn off the power before doing any servicing on it. I then carefully pried up the glass cooktop and lifted it out, so it wouldn't break. By taking off the control knobs, and removing several small Phillips head screws all around the metal cooktop frame and just under the edge of the glass cooktop, I could lift the glass top off from the cooktop, and place it on some newspaper so it didn't get broken. It is important to keep the rest of the cooktop upright. The burners are not fastened down, and only gravity holds them in place. They normally sit on two springloaded pins, one on each side, and the weight of the glasstop pushes them down to their proper setting. So don't mess with them, and make sure each side remains on the two pins after you're done and before putting the glasstop back on. As for the switch, you need to remove two small 1/4 inch metal screws (a socket is very handy for this), one on each side of a metal framework that holds all the switches. After removing that framework, I carefully turned it over and found the correct switch for the burner that wasn't working. In my case, it was the closest right hand burner, which is also the biggest and has the option of having a big, small or both elements turned on, depending on how you turn the control switch. I then carefully pulled off each wire lead, with a needlenose plier to avoid damaging them, and immediately put each wire onto the corresponding same connection on the new switch. Take a close look at the wires on the old switch to make sure you plug them into the same connectors on the new switch. It's pretty straightforward. There may have been one or two small screws holding the switch onto the framework, but I don't recall right now. It was very easy to see how to remove and then reattach it. Then reverse the above steps and reinstall the cooktop, turn on the power and you should be in business!
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Steve from Seattle, WA
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Burner not working
First, disconnect electrical power to the stove by turning the main fuse to the off position. Confirm that there is no electrical power in the stove. The ceramic top is held by 10 screws that are closest to the ceramic surface. Other screws hold other parts of the stove and not need to be touched when opening the stove. Once the ceram
... Read moreic surface is off there is access to the burners and the various lights and switches. It is important to determine whether it is the burner that is defective or the switch. Inasmuch as the switch has many moving parts, the switch is more likely to be the defective part. Check the switch by gaining access to the switch connections. There is a metal frame held by two screws on each side in the outside of the stove (same area where the initial 10 screws were removed to separate the ceramic surface). Remove these screws and flip the switch assembly so all the wires and cables are accessible. I checked the switch with a continuity tester and by trial and error determined that there were two connections that in all the remainder three switches had continuity when the switch was in the on position while the suspect switch did not. Replaced the suspect switch by pulling the wires and replacing them in identical positions in the new switch (a smartphone camera became very useful to remind me were exactly each cable's connection was). Restore power by turning the fuse to the on position. Check that the burner lights up. If not, change the burner as well. Same simple procedure of disconnecting and connecting cables to the burner). Make sure to disconnect power before working on the burner. Replace the screws that hold the switch assembly. Replace the ceramic top. Replace the screws. Set stove back in its hole. Reset fuse. Total time: 35 mins. Total cost: Approx $25.00 (switch + delivery). Quoted repair by local appliance repair service: $487.50. No contest. Next project is to fix a leaky water dispenser in the refrigerator.
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LUIS from CONCORD, MA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
1 personfound this instruction helpful.
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Electric range burner not working due to control switch
Turned off power to counter top range and pulled-up from counter. Set range on counter and removed 16 screws from around the housing allowing me to pull-up and remove range top. Used socket to remove 4 screws holding control switch bracket in place and 2 screws holding bad switch in place. Disconnect wires from bad switch and reconnected
... Read moreto new switch. Placed and screwed switch bracket back in place. Before placing range top back I turned power back on to to test burner operation. Burner and switch operated correctly and I completed screwing range top back in place, setting back down into counter top. Done
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Rodney from Erath, LA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers, Socket set
21 of 28 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Two burners were not working
I got someone to look at the stove. They told me what I needed. I looked all over the Internet and couldn't find the part. One guy told me just to buy a new stove top because mine was an antique. It still looked good and two burners were still working. I didn't give up. I found the part on partselect bsite and was thrilled. It ship
... Read moreped fast and was exactly the right part. Now my stove works like new.
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Terri from Leesburg, FL
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Screw drivers
3 of 10 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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RF Dual Burner out. Smoke in the area of controls
Shut off circuit breaker. Removed cooktop from island counter. Removed all knobs. Removed all screws after finding layout diagrams of unit on your web site. Lifted glass top from metal cabinet. Ordered control after trouble shooting the problem. (Master Electrician). Obviously burned out from water in control. Ordered control on line and
... Read moreinstalled it when it arrived three days later. Before installing control I cleaned and dried out the area. I cleaned the glass top around all the control shaft holes and the rubber boots and lubricated them with silicone to help keep them dry and for ease of turning controls. Turned on circuit breaker and checked all burners, pilot light and hot top indicating lights.
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Al from Ocala, FL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
12 of 15 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
22 questions answered by our experts.
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Richard
February 12, 2018
Need to replace cook top burner control ps1016429. Do I remove cook top or front control panel cover to access ? Any details on how to remove is appreciated.
For model number CS980ST4SS
Hi Richard, Thank you for the question. For your model number you do not need to remove the cooktop, just the front panel. Here is a link to a video that may help. It is not the same appliance but same basic steps for the switch. Hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hoJqv_pQvg
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Danny
February 19, 2018
I purchased a wb24t10119 range surface element control switch but lost my photo of where all the wired hook up on the switch. Do you have instructions for where each colored wire goes?
For model number CS980SN2SS
Hi Danny, Thank you for the question. The Red wire should go to the P1 terminal. The Black to P2, Yellow to the Pilot. The Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange go the the terminal marked 4 and terminal 2 is also Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange. Hope this helps!
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Mike
December 11, 2017
Will this work for the GE cooktop above? Left rear burner doesn't get warm/hot. Already replaced element receptacles. Thanks.
For model number JP328WF1WW
Hi Mike, Thank you for the question.Yes,this switch works on all four burners for the model number provided. Good luck with the repair!
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Danny
February 19, 2018
I purchased a wb24t10119 range surface element control switch but lost my photo of where all the wires hook up on the switch. Do you have instructions for where each colored wire goes? My wire colors are brown, brown/red, black, red, gray. My range is a GE cafe cs980sn2ss i received an answer this morning but the colors didn't match.
Hi Danny, Thank you for the question. The Red wire should go to the P1 terminal. The Black to P2, Yellow to the Pilot. The Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange go the the terminal marked 4 and terminal 2 is also Blue, Brown,Yellow or Orange. Hope this helps!
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Charles
September 17, 2019
Power light stays on and the dual burner is warm (not hot)
For model number JP356BM3BB
Hello Charles, Thank you for the question. This normally indicates the switch that controls the element is defective and should be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Charles
October 3, 2019
Does part # ps1016429 work on the dual burner ( right front ) on this model ? I replaced the old switch with this one but now the dual burner center element doesn't come on. The outer element does.
For model number JP356B m3bb
Hello Charles, thank you for writing. Yes, this Infinite Control Switch part number PS1016429 is the correct replacement for that burner. You may want to consider replacing the Haliant Element itself, part number PS3486730 for your model to fix this. Good luck with your repair!
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Guy
May 2, 2022
Hi, I have to replace the infinite switch on the front left side of my range. It has a 8" burner and a Bridge surface unit. Which switch do I need? Thanks
For model number JCS966SD1SS
Hello Guy, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS236785. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
I need the switch at the bottom labeled 19 but why is it different than the other 19’s?
For model number JP350SC1SS
Hi Jesse,
Thank you for your question. You have three different switches in your appliance and they apply to the different burners that you have. You have a switch for your 1200 watt burner, a switch for your 1900 watt burner, and a switch for the two other burners. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Sal
April 27, 2018
Oven works fine, but the entire cooking surface is dead
For model number CS980ST3SS
Hello Sal, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: infinite control switches for each burner and the main control board. Also inspect the wiring for any visible damage. You can test the parts with a multimeter. Hope this helps!
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Dale
February 18, 2019
I have a red hot light on all the time for the front right burner, but the burner will not heat up,
Could this be the element ?Thanks
For model number JB968KK1CC
Hello Dale, Thank you for the question. The light is controlled by the burner switch. Since you are having issues with both the element and the light, I suggest replacing the switch, PartSelect Number PS236753. Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!
