ZSGW420DMB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Used by pass filter and problem disappeared. Of course wayer is now unfiltered. This is a GE design flaw. Also replacement filters are outrageously expensive and do not last long. We have good water here and I'll stick with the bypass.

Took panel off back of inside of freezer section, took off old sensor from the evaporator, spliced new sensor into the existing wires, waterproofed spliced connections, snapped sensor back onto evaporator, then put panel back on the inside of the freezer. Really, it took only 10 minutes to fix. Now refrigerator defrosts like it used to, and temps have settled in at specified temps.

Noticed the problem in November 2009. Replaced Hi Limit Sesor for Defrost thinking it was the freezor temperature sensor. Did not fix the problem. Replaced Motherboard. Did not fix the problem. Called Sears Repair. They mis-diagnosed the problem and told me it was the sealed system. I doubted them and sent them home. Replaced the correct freezer temperature sensor that connects to the motherboard. FIXED.
Removed a panel, cut two wires, soldered and insulated two wries, reinstalled panel.

Actually this was a two part repair of which I purchased both parts. The micro switch Pt # PS296176 and also a double outlet water valve Pt # PS304374 from Parts Select as well.

The difficult part was accessing the area to get to the micro switch.

The trim had to be removed, then the cover.

Then one unplugs the board and removed the face plate which also contains the micro switch.

Once removed the two electrical terminals had to be disconnected, the micro switch installed and terminal reconnected.

Then reverse the removal procedure.

Then on to the double outlet replacement.

Suggest watching the installation video for the replacement although it was really a straight forward repair.

Two things to remember.

1. Unplug the fridge

2. Shut off the water to the dispenser

Overall it was not bad at all.

This was my first attempt at refrigerator repair and it went well.

Good luck on yours.

John

First, had to use punch tool to pop out electronic face panel. Face unit still connnect via wires. Use painters tape to hold against refrig. Next, Remove ice/water dispenser and also tape to door. This will give you access to solenoid. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and unplug fsolenoid from Face Panel. Screw new solenoid and place and connnect to Panel. Goood idea is to unplug regrig. while doing this and put a little WD-30 on shaft of solenoid. May want to order new screws, could be rusty, that hold solenoid in place. Sounds a bit complicated but not that bad a job. You'll save over$100 over GE's service.

unscrewed old filter by hand, installed new filter.

Called partselect and gave my model number for the frig. I wanted a filter plug because we did not need a frig filter. We have a whole house filter. They looked up the part, took my info, and sent it to me by UPS. It arrived fairly quickly and fit the frig perfectly. I screwed it into place immediately. It was the simplest order I have ever placed and the salesman was very pleasant and proficient. If I have more issues with my frig, I will call partselect again. Just remember to turn off the water before you start.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

First I hired a repairman and he said that it was in the unit and would not be worth the expense to fix.

I started to research on the net and this was one possible source. ( evaporator fan). I had to take it apart to verify it. Then put it back together to use until the part came.

The next time went much faster as I did not have to take near as many screws out to access the fan motor. Very Happy to have it working fine again as a new relacement would cost $1200. Thanks much. Ron

I followed the instructions found on this website. I removed the control panel by inserting a small Phillips screwdriver in the three holes at its bottom. I used the same screwdriver to pull the dispenser assembly down but could have used a larger one. The microswitch could be seen in the assembly at that point and was easily removed by opening the "fingers" that held it in place. I attempted to pull one of the terminals off without using a pair of needle-nosed pliers and ripped the wires right out of the terminal(I was able to find a replacement at Radio Shack). Low and behold after reinstalling the new part, it did not take care of the problem.

My problem is the water dispenser does work intermittently. When we place the glass in position and hit the lever, the lights in the control panel go off and no water is dispensed. My next guess may be the water valve or the control panel. The icemaker makes ice but I have had problems with it dispensing for nearly a year now.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

First I removed the front cover (pried a screwdriver gently under the bottom plastic seal between housing shield and front cover, it came off nice and easy without damage). Removed electrical plugs from electronic board (front cover) so that it did not hang from the wires and get it the way. Then removed four screws holding housing shield on. Removed housing shield, first observing with new parts next to me how it came apart. And then disassembled funnel from shield. Simple but being careful is the key to putting the new unit together as with any plastic parts it's easy to snap if forced. Replaced all parts in reverse order removed. This is a good time to clean all parts for any mold build up that could not be reached otherwise. Parts select personnel were courteous and very helpful. Especially when I almost ordered the wrong color parts. Ask questions if not sure.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

No self defrost. Measured heater coil with ohm meter which was OK (not open). Ordered 2 temp sensors (there are 2 in freezer, 2 in fresh food sections). The original and the new all meaured ~150 ohms. Replaced one by one. This did not fix problem. Ordered defrost thermostat. Original measured ~150 ohms - new one was ~100 ohms. Unpluged refridgerator. Removed coil panel (4 nut screws) in freezer and light cover (1 small phillips screw). Locate defrost thermostat clipped to top of coils (orange / pink wires). Cut wires and unclipped thermostat. Stripped insulation off of wires and reconnect using wire nuts. Clipped thermostat back to coils. Ran refridgerator without panel on coils to see if coils frosted up again and listend for fans/compressor to stop ( took hours). Opened freezer and viewed glow of defrost heater. Problem resolved.

bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.